GB-47 1/48 Hawker Typhoon - WW2 D-Day and After – Western Front
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Lovely work so far Andy!
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- #223
Crimea_River
Marshal
Thanks gents. Masked and painted the wing walks today before doing the salt weathering. I got some bad orange peeling in the matte coat in the wing roots so I'm going to need to smooth that out before going further.
fubar57
General
Good stuff. Finally getting to watch some hockey even if it is preliminaries.
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- #225
Crimea_River
Marshal
Thanks Geo and yes, nice to see some shinny. Hope the pandemic stays at bay.
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- #227
Crimea_River
Marshal
Salt weathering Take 1. I decided to try this on the underside first so that in case I screwed up, I could screw the model upright to the display shelf. I brushed an area with water and sprinkled salt in a random pattern until well covered and then moved to the next area and repeated until the entire underside was done. I found it necessary to blot some pooled water up a bit because it ended up dissolving the salt. These small areas were touched up by dabbing a small amount of water and re-salting. The model was then left to dry until it looked like this:
Next, I added a thimble full of IPA to my airbrush and added a drop of Tamiya Buff, then mixed well. The model was then sprayed with 3 or 4 light coats of this mixture at low pressure and allowed to dry. My issue was that I didn't want to overdo this and one can't see the results until all the salt is removed so I stopped there. The salt was then removed with a stiff brush followed by a wipe down with a damp cloth. The result was extremely subtle and barely visible in the below pic. You can't really see it on the grey but the roundel does show some of this effect.
The lesson is that I could have done a few more passes on this light background and so I'll take that learning to the upper side. The thing is though that the colours are darker and so may show the effect with fewer coats. I'll try it with 3 or 4 passes again and check.
Back later.
Next, I added a thimble full of IPA to my airbrush and added a drop of Tamiya Buff, then mixed well. The model was then sprayed with 3 or 4 light coats of this mixture at low pressure and allowed to dry. My issue was that I didn't want to overdo this and one can't see the results until all the salt is removed so I stopped there. The salt was then removed with a stiff brush followed by a wipe down with a damp cloth. The result was extremely subtle and barely visible in the below pic. You can't really see it on the grey but the roundel does show some of this effect.
The lesson is that I could have done a few more passes on this light background and so I'll take that learning to the upper side. The thing is though that the colours are darker and so may show the effect with fewer coats. I'll try it with 3 or 4 passes again and check.
Back later.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Is it later yet ?
- Thread starter
- #230
Crimea_River
Marshal
Yes. The uppers are done with the first pass being done with Tamiya Deck Tan (not Buff as I incorrectly reported earlier) and then a repeat near the engine with a drop of black in a thimble full of IPA. Again very subtle and more visible to the naked eye than in the photos. I'm pretty pleased with the results and have the confidence to do this again.
Final shots with the black applied. Can't see much but, as I said, it's better in real life.
Thanks again for stopping by. Have a good Christmas guys.
fubar57
General
Beauty. I can just make out some and that's what you want. Happy Holidays my friend. Over to the daughters house tomrrow once the grandkid wakes up so I'm figuring about 4:30 ish
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Nice - but it's been asalted .............. yeah, I know, and I'm on my way !
Have a great Christmas Andy.
Have a great Christmas Andy.
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- #234
Crimea_River
Marshal
Thanks chaps. It was a quiet day yesterday and I did manage to make some significant progress. First off, an overall picture of the model showing how she looks at this stage:
The sliding canopy has been glued in place after masking the black area behind the head armour and painting the camo colours up to the seal strip. This area had, up til now, been covered by the hood in the closed position, which I used to keep overspray from going into the cockpit. The hood itself did not fit well and needed a fair amount of downward pressure and the use of CA glue to make it sit where it should. Note also that a bit of chipping has been started. For this I used a silver pencil.
The prop has been glued in place after weathering. It's not seen well here but the tips of the blades got a dose of silver sprayed from a distance to represent wear. I'm going to do a bit more work on some of these blades as I'm not yet satisfied with the look now that I am studying these closeups.
The beautiful Ultracast exhausts fit very well and are a welcome change from the boney kit ones. Note the black pastel faintly applied at the cowl panel lines to represent greasy fingers.
On the underside, we see the undercarriage in place as well as the inner gear doors and cooler flap. The grunge is quite evident and more than I might normally do but photos show this rig to be quite filthy. The cannon shell and link ejection chutes show quite a bit of black staining and the mud of Eindhoven was famous.
A close-up of one of the aftermarket Barracuda resin wheels shows the mud and dust effect that I wanted to achieve. The lead wire brake line can be made out as well.
The inner gear doors are also in place after receiving the salt weathering and a black wash on the inner depressions. The steel wear strip was made by simply running a graphite pencil over this area.
That's all for today but I should get a bit more done over the next day or two and will post up what should amount to the final pics during the next week. As always, thanks for following along and for the kind support.
The sliding canopy has been glued in place after masking the black area behind the head armour and painting the camo colours up to the seal strip. This area had, up til now, been covered by the hood in the closed position, which I used to keep overspray from going into the cockpit. The hood itself did not fit well and needed a fair amount of downward pressure and the use of CA glue to make it sit where it should. Note also that a bit of chipping has been started. For this I used a silver pencil.
The prop has been glued in place after weathering. It's not seen well here but the tips of the blades got a dose of silver sprayed from a distance to represent wear. I'm going to do a bit more work on some of these blades as I'm not yet satisfied with the look now that I am studying these closeups.
The beautiful Ultracast exhausts fit very well and are a welcome change from the boney kit ones. Note the black pastel faintly applied at the cowl panel lines to represent greasy fingers.
On the underside, we see the undercarriage in place as well as the inner gear doors and cooler flap. The grunge is quite evident and more than I might normally do but photos show this rig to be quite filthy. The cannon shell and link ejection chutes show quite a bit of black staining and the mud of Eindhoven was famous.
A close-up of one of the aftermarket Barracuda resin wheels shows the mud and dust effect that I wanted to achieve. The lead wire brake line can be made out as well.
The inner gear doors are also in place after receiving the salt weathering and a black wash on the inner depressions. The steel wear strip was made by simply running a graphite pencil over this area.
That's all for today but I should get a bit more done over the next day or two and will post up what should amount to the final pics during the next week. As always, thanks for following along and for the kind support.
fubar57
General
Very nice Andy. I really like the underside weathering, something I have yet to attempt
Great work so far Andy!
Snautzer01
Honourably banned
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- Mar 26, 2007
That is one nice model.
Real Nice Andy.
Great job of weathering Andy
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