Hobbycraft 1/48 P-40F/L Checkertail

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The problem.
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The solution
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Unfortunately the solution popped open a bit of the port wing trailing edge. Some might notice that I used tube glue for the wing/fuselage join. I also have Insta-cure gap filling superglue, Gorilla superglue and Tamiya Ultra thin liquid glue. Which glue would anyone else have used....Gentlemen, start quibbling. :twisted:
Also, the outer gun was removed to save weight. Would the gun fairing have been removed as well?


Geo
 
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Wings on, filled and sanded, ready for paint.
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None of the reds in my paint stock would match the red of the decals. Looking through various paint brands on the Web, I noticed that Humbrol 153 was very close so it was a 4 hour round trip to Prince George for a 4$ tin of paint.(Had to pick up my son at the airport so he was lucky I needed paint) The little red dot on the right of my other samples is the Humbrol and is gosh darned perfect.
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All is good one would think but this is what I'm left with after just over 2 hours of stirring and shaking.
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It's worse than the photo shows. If you read this Terry, is there any point going on with this paint? I read that you had problems with Humbrol in the past. I'm going to be brush painting the red so would adding a bit of thinner to the tin help or hurt the cause? (Next trip to P.G. is 3 weeks away)

Geo
 
Hi Geo. The colour looks like a good match. How long after starting to mix was that picture taken? You may need a good, long stir - 10 minutes or so to get all the clumps blended in.

Sorry for the late answer but my prefered wing root glue is Tamiya extra thin.
 
Thanks for the reply Andy, still stirring and shaking as I type, probably close to 3 hours now. I'll stir it for about 2 or 3 minutes and then shake for about 10, take a break and repeat. Going to mask off the flaps and paint the black first until I get the red figured out or my arm falls off. As for the glue, I normally use the tube glue on a part that won't be seen, underside of a seat or a bulkhead.

Geo
 
Just read Terry's article dated 2009 and a boat builders article dated 2010. After over 3 hours, the paint is still thick and lumpy.There is a number on the bottom of the tin-A1660. According to the boat builders site, modelboatmayhem.co.uk, Humbrol is now made in China. I've used Humbrol in the past with no problems. The Interior Green on this aircraft is Humbrol.

Geo
 
I can understand your dilemma Geo, I've been a Humbrol user since I was knee high to a grass hopper but now as my supply depletes I'm converting to Model Master for spray work and Vallejo for most of the hand painting. I've also a supply of White Ensign enamel paints which are true to colour for WWII German, British or Japanese builds, these I get through the internet.

As for the problem you are having, try a bit of white spirit with more stirring and shaking and then maybe if you can, strain and rub it through a fine sieve, this may help to break up some of the lumps which I would say is the pigment gone real hard over time.
 
Preparing for the red and yellow paint. Going to P.G. tomorrow to get another tin of Humbrol red. Going to ask to open the tin before I buy one.
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Dry brushing and chipping in the underlying camouflage colors...yes....no?
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Geo
 
Just finished adding .3ml of lacquer thinner to the Humbrol and after 10 minutes of stirring, this is what I have.
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SIGH..I'll shake, add, stir, and shake until later on today and see what happens. It's now down to the consistency of pudding.:cry:

Geo
 

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