My first model

spitfire101 · Dec 17, 2006

I got my first models today 1st one is a spitfire mk2, 2nd is a blackwidow p-61 and 3rd is a F6F Hellcat.

syscom3 · Dec 17, 2006

Sounds like you will be busy!

Remember to show us how they turn out.

spitfire101 · Dec 17, 2006

and i few a few questions too like whats the best way to paint it...ect the basics for a beginner

Wayne Little · Dec 18, 2006

Hey Spitfire, what scale kits are your new purchases?.... and what brands?
We need to start with the basics of identification, that way we can then move forward on what to do.
i take it that you also only have the basic work tools? What have you got to start with?
Just want to get the info right so I can help get the ball rolling.

Wurger · Dec 18, 2006

Hi Spit101 !!!
As you can see Wayne has sent his quick response when I was writting the description.
Painting depends on what is the scale of the model you make and what a kind of a tool ( a brush, an airbrush ) you want to use to paint it.
The first step for sure, is to wash a model with warm ( not hot ) water and soap.You could use also liquid for washing dishes ( I don't know if it is a proper name in English ) instead of soap.Then you should dry a model up,of course.
The second step is to mask all "glass" parts using self-adhesive tape ( it can be Tamiya one ) or Maskol liquid ( Humbrol Maskol for instance ) How to do it look at the thread about masking http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/modeling/masking-5814.html
If the glass parts haven't been fixed yet you have to paint them individually ( it's recommended by me).When they are masked the first colour you have to use, is the interior one.I mean the colour you used to paint the cockpit or the fuselage interior.Simply the inside of the cockpit conopy frame should seem to be in the same colour like the whole cockpit.Now,when the first enamel is dry put the second colour ( colours ) of camo on the first one.Wait for drying out of enamels and then put the cockpit conopy and other painted glass parts into warm water.It causes that it is easier to remove the paper masks from the parts.Let's come back to the fuselage,wings etc...
All openings (holes) there ,you should cover with the paper tape or a soft sponge ( simple put carefully the piece of the sponge into the openings) before you start painting.
The third step -when you use an airbrush- put a primer on the all surfaces of a model.As a primer you can use a primer offered by many firms for modelers.Or simply use a light grey enamel ( it could be also white one ).I must warn you of acrylic enamels properties.They like coming away from the non primered surfaces together with the paper tape, especially.In the case to improve on the acrylic enamels affixing to surfaces,as a primer could be used an oil enamel (Humbrol for instance) before you paint an acrylic one.Then put away a mode for a couple of days to make enamels or primer dry.Meanwhile you can paint wheels and landing gears, propellers etc...
The third step - when you use a brush - as it was mentioned above you could put the primer on all surfaces of a model but from my point of view in 1:72 scale it isn't needed.When there is too much paints on models all panels, riveting become invisible.So be careful with layers of paints.The rest of painting like mentioned above.
The fourth step - painting of the camouflage pattern.
You should start using the lightest colour.In many cases it is the colour of elements of quick identification (yellow,white,red,sky type s,light grey etc..).Put the colours on the proper areas and when enamels are dry, mask them with paper tape making a proper shape of the elements according to pics,profiles you can easly find in Internet,books for instance.Next paint the lower areas ( it is also mostly the lightest colour of a camo).
To start painting of the upper surfaces - with a brush - use a pencil to mark areas where you'll put the camo colours and then choose lighter one ( if the upper camo has the one colour only there isn't any problem) and paint the proper areas,when dry use the next colour (the darker one).In the 1:48,1:32 scale models the big areas of the camo colours should be divided into smaller parts to paint them.Try to put the enamels with a thiny layer.It is better to paint two thin layers then the one thick.The 1:72 models are quite small so you can try to put one thick only.
If you use an airbrush there isn't any problems to make a thin layer of a paint.In addition you don't have to use a pencil to mark areas of camo colours. Simply paint lower surfaces, when dry mask the colour at all leading edeges,trailing edges of wings, stabilizers and lower parts of fuselage accordingly to profiles or pics of the a/c.Next paint the upper surfaces with the first colour of camo.The next thing you have to do is to make paper patterns for the camo spots and fix them in proper areas to mask the parts of the surface that must stay with the first colour.To fix the masks you can use Maskol or simply make them of the self-adhesive tape.How to do it? It is very easy.Take the 3-view colour profile or black&white one in the proper scale and fix on a square of glass.Using a razor-blade or scalpel razor cut out the spots then fix them on the wings,fuselage etc.Another way to take the spots is to make big areas with the tape (some strips one next to one taking a small part of the edge of the previous one) on the glass and using the paper patterns of spots to draw them on the tape.Cut them out and fix on the model.Then paint the second colour.If the camo is the multi-colour mask the next spots in the same way and put the next colour.
When the camo is finished remove all the mask and put the gloss varnish on places where decals are expected to be.When the varnish is dry put decals and leave them for some hours to be also dry.Finally,Put the matt varnish on whole model , if the real plane was painted with matt paints,of course.If not use the semi-gloss or gloss varnish.Fix the painted glass parts and other small external parts (antennas,landing gears,etc...) if you hadn't fixed them before you painted the model.
I hope it was helpful for you.Forgive me all mistakes I've made but I'm still not good enough at English.

BTW Where is your siggy?

Lt. Z0mBe · Dec 18, 2006

Welcome to the boards and the delicate art of scale modeling.

Here's a link to the Finishing forum over at Starship Modeler - Discussion Forum

Starship Modeler Discussion Forums :: View Forum - Finishing

All of it is applicable to WWII aircraft modeling. I think you'll find some useful stuff over there as well.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

spitfire101 · Dec 18, 2006

Thanks guys your a real help. As of models scale I don't know Because my dad has them so i need to check, and shouls I use a brush or an air brush to paint them because my grandfather does them a lot and said to use a brush to begin with.

Wurger · Dec 19, 2006

Hi !!!
A brush it is a good tool for beginners.I've also begun with the one.It is cheap too.Unfortunately, an airbrush and a compressor for this are quite expensive and no one can afford these.But if you can I suggest using the tool.But which one you choose it's up to you.Anyway,we'll be waiting for pics of your first painted model.

Vince57 · Dec 19, 2006

I like your tutorial Wurger; it seems we have been at the same modelling school...

Wurger · Dec 19, 2006

Vince57 said:
I like your tutorial Wurger

Are you serious ?

loomaluftwaffe · Dec 20, 2006

I'd recommend those cheaper asian brands (Academy, Tamiya, etc) for beginners, cause they're the ones meant to be easily assembled (except Hasegawa, those are for the experts, and that brand costs alot)

and don't rush dude, always follow the manual

spitfire101 · Dec 21, 2006

Wurger said:
Hi Spit101 !!!
As you can see Wayne has sent his quick response when I was writting the description.
Painting depends on what is the scale of the model you make and what a kind of a tool ( a brush, an airbrush ) you want to use to paint it.
The first step for sure, is to wash a model with warm ( not hot ) water and soap.You could use also liquid for washing dishes ( I don't know if it is a proper name in English ) instead of soap.Then you should dry a model up,of course.
The second step is to mask all "glass" parts using self-adhesive tape ( it can be Tamiya one ) or Maskol liquid ( Humbrol Maskol for instance ) How to do it look at the thread about masking http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/modeling/masking-5814.html
If the glass parts haven't been fixed yet you have to paint them individually ( it's recommended by me).When they are masked the first colour you have to use, is the interior one.I mean the colour you used to paint the cockpit or the fuselage interior.Simply the inside of the cockpit conopy frame should seem to be in the same colour like the whole cockpit.Now,when the first enamel is dry put the second colour ( colours ) of camo on the first one.Wait for drying out of enamels and then put the cockpit conopy and other painted glass parts into warm water.It causes that it is easier to remove the paper masks from the parts.Let's come back to the fuselage,wings etc...
All openings (holes) there ,you should cover with the paper tape or a soft sponge ( simple put carefully the piece of the sponge into the openings) before you start painting.
The third step -when you use an airbrush- put a primer on the all surfaces of a model.As a primer you can use a primer offered by many firms for modelers.Or simply use a light grey enamel ( it could be also white one ).I must warn you of acrylic enamels properties.They like coming away from the non primered surfaces together with the paper tape, especially.In the case to improve on the acrylic enamels affixing to surfaces,as a primer could be used an oil enamel (Humbrol for instance) before you paint an acrylic one.Then put away a mode for a couple of days to make enamels or primer dry.Meanwhile you can paint wheels and landing gears, propellers etc...
The third step - when you use a brush - as it was mentioned above you could put the primer on all surfaces of a model but from my point of view in 1:72 scale it isn't needed.When there is too much paints on models all panels, riveting become invisible.So be careful with layers of paints.The rest of painting like mentioned above.
The fourth step - painting of the camouflage pattern.
You should start using the lightest colour.In many cases it is the colour of elements of quick identification (yellow,white,red,sky type s,light grey etc..).Put the colours on the proper areas and when enamels are dry, mask them with paper tape making a proper shape of the elements according to pics,profiles you can easly find in Internet,books for instance.Next paint the lower areas ( it is also mostly the lightest colour of a camo).
To start painting of the upper surfaces - with a brush - use a pencil to mark areas where you'll put the camo colours and then choose lighter one ( if the upper camo has the one colour only there isn't any problem) and paint the proper areas,when dry use the next colour (the darker one).In the 1:48,1:32 scale models the big areas of the camo colours should be divided into smaller parts to paint them.Try to put the enamels with a thiny layer.It is better to paint two thin layers then the one thick.The 1:72 models are quite small so you can try to put one thick only.
If you use an airbrush there isn't any problems to make a thin layer of a paint.In addition you don't have to use a pencil to mark areas of camo colours. Simply paint lower surfaces, when dry mask the colour at all leading edeges,trailing edges of wings, stabilizers and lower parts of fuselage accordingly to profiles or pics of the a/c.Next paint the upper surfaces with the first colour of camo.The next thing you have to do is to make paper patterns for the camo spots and fix them in proper areas to mask the parts of the surface that must stay with the first colour.To fix the masks you can use Maskol or simply make them of the self-adhesive tape.How to do it? It is very easy.Take the 3-view colour profile or black&white one in the proper scale and fix on a square of glass.Using a razor-blade or scalpel razor cut out the spots then fix them on the wings,fuselage etc.Another way to take the spots is to make big areas with the tape (some strips one next to one taking a small part of the edge of the previous one) on the glass and using the paper patterns of spots to draw them on the tape.Cut them out and fix on the model.Then paint the second colour.If the camo is the multi-colour mask the next spots in the same way and put the next colour.
When the camo is finished remove all the mask and put the gloss varnish on places where decals are expected to be.When the varnish is dry put decals and leave them for some hours to be also dry.Finally,Put the matt varnish on whole model , if the real plane was painted with matt paints,of course.If not use the semi-gloss or gloss varnish.Fix the painted glass parts and other small external parts (antennas,landing gears,etc...) if you hadn't fixed them before you painted the model.
I hope it was helpful for you.Forgive me all mistakes I've made but I'm still not good enough at English.

BTW Where is your siggy?

ya I couldnt upload it it was saying it was to big but i havent had time to make it smaller.

Wurger · Dec 21, 2006

Hi Spit101 !!!
No problem. If you couldn't I've uploaded the Zip file with my post that is a Word file.I hope you manage the file. If not let me know.

Wurger · Dec 22, 2006

loomaluftwaffe said:
don't rush dude, always follow the manual

Yes, it is better to fit pieces of a model three times together and once glue than once fix and detach later.It is one of the general rules of assembling.
But as the following always the manual is concerned,I don't agree with you ,I'm afraid.In many cases some mistakes appear in manuals.Especially, with numeration of parts ,painting profiles and others that could affect assembling.So I suggest to read a manual carefully and compare to all included parts.Besides,it is also better to assemble all parts without a glue firstly, before you start gluing.Pictures, 3-view drawings and colour profiles are also very useful.Therefore,an assembling should be always started by gathering all accesible infos,pics,drawings etc,etc...

regards

loomaluftwaffe · Dec 23, 2006

yeah, but i remember my newbie stages better (last year) and i remember rushing and not following the instructions, and ended up with a Dali sculpture

If you have, I'd recommend the Tamiya cement, especially the extra thin one, it'll last you a while and wont glue parts to your fingers, and won't damage your model (if used correctly, the regular cement can do discoloration on visible part, it's meant to be applied before attaching the parts)

and you won't knock the bottle over that easily (unless it's the small one)

airbrush with a respirator, no not the one you see on TV worn be the SARS dudes at Hong Kong, Military style, but half-face, those things are pretty toxic, this guy was spraying with acrylics without a mask and had to have lung surgery cause he had a crapload of plastic in his lungs (acrylic paints are colored plastic suspended in liquid form), and that's just acrylic, which AFAIK is the least toxic of the three major modeling paints

Wurger · Dec 23, 2006

loomaluftwaffe said:
yeah, but i remember my newbie stages better (last year) and i remember rushing and not following the instructions, and ended up with a Dali sculpture

Therefore,a modeler should gather all available pics,drawings of the real plane before he starts assembling.It is very useful to study all technical descriptions of the aircraft.Simply,the more you know the better model you make.

loomaluftwaffe said:
If you have, I'd recommend the Tamiya cement, especially the extra thin one, it'll last you a while and wont glue parts to your fingers, and won't damage your model (if used correctly, the regular cement can do discoloration on visible part, it's meant to be applied before attaching the parts) and you won't knock the bottle over that easily (unless it's the small one)

Personally, I use a mixture of some glues (Academy+Chematic+ZTS).Because the Chematic cement is sold in medium capacity bottles with a brush for easy applying,I've decided to use the container for my mixture.It is easy to mix all "ingredients" there using the brush.The cement glues excellent and thanks to the brush can be applied with a thin layer.In many cases it is better use a cyanoacrylate glue then the one for plastic (Tamiya which is a bit thick, for instance).For fixing "glass" parts I use Humbrol Clearfix or a drop of cyanoacrylate Superglue,simply.

loomaluftwaffe said:
airbrush with a respirator, no not the one you see on TV worn be the SARS dudes at Hong Kong, Military style, but half-face, those things are pretty toxic, this guy was spraying with acrylics without a mask and had to have lung surgery cause he had a crapload of plastic in his lungs (acrylic paints are colored plastic suspended in liquid form), and that's just acrylic, which AFAIK is the least toxic of the three major modeling paints

It sounds like you would like to paint a tank,a car or your home with an airbrush.A model is quite small so there is no need to spray all space around.Many modelers have one square metre only (sometimes less than one) for their workshop.It shouldn't be painted in an enclosed space definitely.In a room where is a good ventilation shouldn't be any problems.I've painted many models with an airbrush using both oil and acrylic enamels and I can assure you that my lungs are working good.

spitfire101 · Dec 31, 2006

Ok sorry for the wait.Today I started my first model the Spitfire Mk 2, and i think i got the hang of it. It a skill level of 2 so it wasnt to hard, but the leg wheels wouldnt stay straight. I also got others today, the A-10 warthog and the P-40 and ill try to take somne pictures and post them soon.

Matt308 · Jan 1, 2007

Wurger, you should cut and paste your tutorial above and submit that to a modeling magazine. PERFECT, SUCCINT, and VERY INFORMATIVE for a newbie. Well done my friend.

Wurger · Jan 2, 2007

Thank you very much Matt.

Pisis · Jan 5, 2007

Yes! 8)

My first model

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