Post Your Models!

Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules


Ok, they are kit supplied hasegawa decals, applied and left to setttle on their own for a while...here is the kicker after an hour or so I actually use my finger nail (forefinger is best) to press the decal into the panel lines to stretch them into it.
I wait a while to let the decals glue take effect so the thing does not move.

I press lightly rolling the finger nail along the line, you don't want to move it or tear it but make it conform. You must not drag along it!!

You will also get the air out from under the decal too.

You can use a curved instrument of some kind as well if you bite your nails too much, a bread and butter knife will work, rounded edge and dull!

Now I also will cut the decal along the line and use softener as well if they won't play ball. The cutting must be very careful and after the softener DON'T TOUCH !

Also I have mentioned in the past the 'Click' pencils can do the job if sharpened like a chisel point and pressed in and drawn lightly and carefully along the decals line. Pencil needs to be at about a 30-45 degree angle to the surface This takes a bit of practice as you can tear the decal so you must be careful.

Hope these hints help.
 

Once in position, yes I do press it down with tissue to permanently position it and soak up the water,taking care not to move it.

Then wait the hour or so, (sorry I wasn't quite clear enough) then press it into the seam. I actually go over this procedure number of times over a period of time to get it to settle. I resort to the cutting and softener only if necessary on stubborn decals.

Plus if I get silvering I prick the decal in that spot (usually around the edges)put on a drop of softener and then wipe it away after a few seconds.Repeating if necessary.
 
Wayne, all decals are different. And some great... others shite. Do you take your decals out of the water ASAP after they begin to move? Wait a standard time? Or don't care how long they are in the water (not likely)?

I have found you have to kinda judge how long they are in based upon the individual model decals. Kinda like cooking a steak... it just depends.

Thoughts?
 

Just loved this Matt, Yep it is JUST like cooking a steak, every one of the blighter's is different.

I dip my decals in water then place them on a piece of wet paper towel until they become loose. This way I keep as much of the glue with the decal as possible and if I get interrupted by mini-me trying to kill his Sister no harm is done. I'm currently using 'Microscale' Micro set Micro Softener has anyone tried the MR Hobby range Mr Soft Mr Set, if so how did they go?
 

You're absolutely right Matt they are all different and you need to think carefully about how to use them. I usually take them out once they start to move, but sometimes longer...I've never really had issue regardless of the time they are in the water.
Very old decals can be a real problem tearing or disintegrating...if you think this is a possibilty you should give them a light coat of gloss to ensure they don't come apart and take extra care as you move them from the backing paper to the model.
 
I always use very warm water (almost hot).I put a decal into it for some seconds and then I put it awy on a newspaper for a while.I check if it is ready to be put on a model with a soft brush from time to time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Similar threads

HK MODELS B17-F MEMPHIS BELLE
Replies
10
Views
778
N4521U
HK MODELS B25-J1
Replies
10
Views
975
Army14Bravo
A
HK MODELS 1/48 B17-G
Replies
8
Views
903
Viking1066
A
My models
2 3
Replies
58
Views
4K
Vic Balshaw
C
1/48 Grumman Goose Mk III, Czech Models kit finished as an RCAF Goose .
2
Replies
28
Views
2K
Maxrobot1
Menu
Log in
Register