Revell 1/32 Mosquito IV

[Catch22]

Very nice Petadel!

Nah Catch 1/32 ,21st centuary seem to be the best option for building a Corsair in that scale

Can you get 1/18 Corsair kits?

Thanks heaps Terry

Sorry, forgot about this!

They're not kits per se, as you don't build them, but yes, 21st has 1:18 planes. I have 5 of them myself.

 

[Airframes]

Only seen pics of the 1/18th built-up models, Catch. Are they good enough to be 'tarted up' into nice models? I fancy the Corsair or Mustang, if I can get one.
Sorry Petadel, back to your thread!
Terry.

 

[109ROAMING]

Me too Terry,A Corsair would be awesome

Nice work Petadel!

 

[Catch22]

Only seen pics of the 1/18th built-up models, Catch. Are they good enough to be 'tarted up' into nice models? I fancy the Corsair or Mustang, if I can get one.
Sorry Petadel, back to your thread!
Terry.

I would say so, if you get the newer ones. I have the old version of the P-51, and it's OK, but the newer one is better apparently.

So as to not completely hijack petadel's thread: http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/modeling/21st-century-toys-models-where-they-11756.html

 

[petadel]

After a while away - occupational hazard managed to get time to remount the elevators.

As these have been cut from the model filled and sanded and mounted with a cut down needle for hinges and good ol 5 minute araldite.

As the mosquito was fitted with external control locks only the elevator would hang at full extend down without them.

The rudder is also offset to break the clean lines and shown that although it is a nice clean aircraft with everything hanging out it it still looks a force to be reackon'd with.

 

[petadel]

After the mammoth sanding effort especially around the engine nacelles and wing roots I had to replace the sanded off rivets.

Using a needle I sat for about 3 hours heating with a candle and re riviting the areas.

The sharp end used to general rivet lines and the cut down end for the double plates around the inboard wing sections.

A heated stanley knife blade dragged accroos the surface also replace the sanded out panel lines.

Sorry guys no photos of this process - time got away but I will load some close ups of the finished areas.
8)

 

[109ROAMING]

Looking very cool mate!

 

[Wayne Little]

Yep, great stuff mate!

 

[petadel]

Sorry Guys - my macro capable camera is away so resorting to mobile phone !

The rivet lines inboard leading spar and panel lines drawn as previously detailed. They were loast in the filling and sanding between the wing and fuselage just behind the radior intake.

The first coat of silver - as always highlights all the problem areas.

There is an area of damage/filler which requires a bit of attention - thought I had it corrected by the paint shows otherwise.

When I was filing the rear spar after cutting the flaps out I used a large amouint of Tamiya putty. When this drys it releases heat and the result was the upper surface of the wing - out of sght while drying become drawn in.

So more putty on top a little milliput and was starting to look tidy.

However, as there is a shortage of tamiya here in Cairns and the Milliput is overkill I used the old talcum powder and glue. Worked OK although it has shrunk a little.

Here is what is left

 

[Wurger]

Undoubtedly the area requires a bit of attention or even much more.But the work looks good.

 

[Airframes]

Looks excellent mate! I'd suggest a talcum powder and varnish mix to smooth out that upper wing fault; it'll be easier to sand back. Maybe some thinned Milliput over the top, smoothed whilst still wet, would also help. Looking forward to the next installment.

 

[Wurger]

I think the talcum powder and the silver paint mix would be better than the Milliput putty ,Terry.

 

[Airframes]

I think you're right Wojtek. Using 'thinned' Milliput takes a lot of practice, and even then it can break up quite easily. The varnish and talc should find its own level and, even though it might need more than one coat, will be easier to smooth out. With a primer, then paint , gloss and finishing coats, a blind man on a galopping horse would never notice any imperfection!!

 

[Wurger]

Yep, but there is one more reflection ( thought ).The silver paint including metalizers ( it doesn't mean what a kind of it ) needs a very smooth surface.So it mean that a modeller has to prepare it befor the paint is applied, else it looks like above.

 

[Airframes]

Good point! It'll need sanding back BEFORE filling, then, possibly a clear coat before more silver. Although silver does show up imperfections, I try to avoid using it, unless really neccessary, as it can cause many problems in later stages. I think a light grey is normally better. No metalizers, no problems with pigments reacting!

 

[Heinz]

Looking good mate

 

[Wurger]

Also good point with the clear varnish Terry. In addition I can say the gloss one.

 

[109ROAMING]

Very cool

 

[ian lanc]

Heres a great link to get the detail correct ! its the Mossie which is at the Yorkshire air museum WARNING lots of pictures 8) ...........

HJ711

 

[rochie]

great link ian

last time i was at the museum the weather kept most of the aircraft in the main hanger so it was a little cramped