fubar57
General
I'll go through my books. Shinpachi or Wayne would be your go to guys here
Tamiya 1/48 A6M5 Zero/Zeke
- Thread starter WolfRacer
- Start date
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I'll go through my books. Shinpachi or Wayne would be your go to guys here
I would say the cowling inside was painted same as outside - slightly bluish black for Mitsubishi or slightly grayish black for Nakajima manufacturer. Additionally it seems to be dirty because engines leaked and spewed oil a lot with soot and smoke traces.
The pic source: the net.
The pic source: the net.
Last edited:
I confirm Wojteks comments..Black!
- Thread starter
- #24
Good work so far!
- Thread starter
- #27
at6
1st Sergeant
Excellent interior work. The cock pit looks to be fairly accurate. There was an article in an older aircraft magazine years ago documenting the Air and Space Museum restoration of their A6M5 and the interior details look the same.
In fact I should have elaborated, the colour for a Mitsubishi aircraft would be a Black with a slight Bluish tint and Nakajima a Hint of grey. but both still primarilly tending towards Black in both cases...
I heard it was black too, Wayne.
Mitsubishi might have thought the green black was more suitable in its restoration job like the modern researchers tend to think the light gray is not correct for the Zero's standard color. Attached illustration was introduced in 1943 and it shows the original standard color of A6M2.
I'm not sure about the Grumman's color though.
Mitsubishi might have thought the green black was more suitable in its restoration job like the modern researchers tend to think the light gray is not correct for the Zero's standard color. Attached illustration was introduced in 1943 and it shows the original standard color of A6M2.
I'm not sure about the Grumman's color though.
- Thread starter
- #33
The kit's mostly together now. Just a few more bits and bobs to stick on then I'll mask the canopy and start laying down some paint.
Filled all the fuselage and wing gaps. This kit is really nice, if you have any interest in Zeros and would like one in 1/48 scale I can definitely recommend the Tamiya one. The fit is really good, very few gaps to fill, I like the way the wings are done as the moulded spars and wheel well locks in the dihedral. So without any real effort there's almost no gap at the wing roots and the dihedral looks good. Likewise the horizontal and vertical stabilisers fit in nice and firmly in a good position so no fiddling around trying to get the alignment right.
I filled gaps with Gunze's Mr Surfacer. Previously I've used putties like Squadron putty but this time I decided to use Mr Surfacer because I always struggle to get a flawless finish with putties. I think it worked well, basically airbrushed on the Mr Surfacer, it gives you an idea of where the gaps are, sand it off, apply a bit more Mr Surfacer with a hairy brush, sand it off and it's good to go. If it's a particularly large gap it might take a few applications, but you can sand it within a few minutes of painting it which means it comes together quickly.
For the interior aotake I used Gunze's metallic blue green, but in hindsight I like the look from a distance but up close the metallic grains are too noticeable, so I've bought some Tamiya clear green and clear blue which I'll try and use in the wheel wells and flaps.
Filled all the fuselage and wing gaps. This kit is really nice, if you have any interest in Zeros and would like one in 1/48 scale I can definitely recommend the Tamiya one. The fit is really good, very few gaps to fill, I like the way the wings are done as the moulded spars and wheel well locks in the dihedral. So without any real effort there's almost no gap at the wing roots and the dihedral looks good. Likewise the horizontal and vertical stabilisers fit in nice and firmly in a good position so no fiddling around trying to get the alignment right.
I filled gaps with Gunze's Mr Surfacer. Previously I've used putties like Squadron putty but this time I decided to use Mr Surfacer because I always struggle to get a flawless finish with putties. I think it worked well, basically airbrushed on the Mr Surfacer, it gives you an idea of where the gaps are, sand it off, apply a bit more Mr Surfacer with a hairy brush, sand it off and it's good to go. If it's a particularly large gap it might take a few applications, but you can sand it within a few minutes of painting it which means it comes together quickly.
For the interior aotake I used Gunze's metallic blue green, but in hindsight I like the look from a distance but up close the metallic grains are too noticeable, so I've bought some Tamiya clear green and clear blue which I'll try and use in the wheel wells and flaps.
Nicely done so far!
Looking good, don't know why Tamiya haven't redone there A6M2 version yet....
Lucky13
Forum Mascot
Beautiful work kiddo, beautiful! 
- Thread starter
- #38
Underside is shaded...
My method for shading is to spray the model with the final colour, mix in some black and brown in a very thin mix and do my shading, mix the final colour with white also in a very thin mix and do some highlights then go back over with the final colour heavily thinned down, just slowly building it up to hide the shading until I'm happy with the effect.
So what you see here is just before I go back over with the final colour to tone done the shading.
I prefer doing that to standard preshading because it gives me more control, I find it gives a colour closer to what came out of the pot while still having good depth and it has this colour-shifting effect where the amount of shading that's visible depends on the angle you view the model and the amount of light shining on it.
I was surprised how green the paint came out. I'm just using Tamiya XF12, I'm not sure how accurate it is but that's what the kit instructions recommend and also what a few people online recommended.
For the top side I was just planning on using Tamiya XF70, which from what I understand they formulated specifically when they released the 1/32 A6M5 and it seems to be a good representation of Mitsubishi IJN Green.
My method for shading is to spray the model with the final colour, mix in some black and brown in a very thin mix and do my shading, mix the final colour with white also in a very thin mix and do some highlights then go back over with the final colour heavily thinned down, just slowly building it up to hide the shading until I'm happy with the effect.
So what you see here is just before I go back over with the final colour to tone done the shading.
I prefer doing that to standard preshading because it gives me more control, I find it gives a colour closer to what came out of the pot while still having good depth and it has this colour-shifting effect where the amount of shading that's visible depends on the angle you view the model and the amount of light shining on it.
I was surprised how green the paint came out. I'm just using Tamiya XF12, I'm not sure how accurate it is but that's what the kit instructions recommend and also what a few people online recommended.
For the top side I was just planning on using Tamiya XF70, which from what I understand they formulated specifically when they released the 1/32 A6M5 and it seems to be a good representation of Mitsubishi IJN Green.
Looking good so far!
