Welcome Switcha, nice Lanc!!
tamiya 1/48th dambuster build, for 'wayne little'
- Thread starter ian lanc
- Start date
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hunter0f2
Airman
Welcome!! Great model--- I think we are all entitled to a bit of artistic licence when model building!!
I have been working on a cheap Chinese Kit 1/48 F 16 F. Falcon for weeks---just do a bit now then , when the spirit moves me!!!
I have been working on a cheap Chinese Kit 1/48 F 16 F. Falcon for weeks---just do a bit now then , when the spirit moves me!!!
- Thread starter
- #84
ian lanc
Senior Airman
hi switcha 8)
glad some of my in-builds helped you, what other forum was it on ? just curious !
your lanc' looks very well indeed but needs that touch of the exhaust stains
i never do exhaust staining by airbrush as you can tell straight away that they are done that way and one mishap with the airbrush and its ruined
i use good quality artist pastels to do the job.... i use black/dark grey/very light grey pastels to do the staining.
1, find references on how the staining looks on what ever your modeling.
2, where you want the staining to be it needs to be a matt suface, so the pastels can be rubbed into the paintwork. [satin or gloss is no good]
3, i scrape the pastel with a sharp knife over the model to make a thin layer black only in the area where the staining is and no where else !,
4, with a wide clean/dry brush i then brush away from the engines, the same way as the airflow, taking care not to brush too much in the middle, blow off the excess.
5, now repeat step 3 but this time using dark grey, but appling the dust to the central part of the stain, brushing away from the engines again, blow off excess.
6, repeat step 3 again![:-\"](/forum/images/smilies/eusa_whistle.gif "Whistle :-\\"")
this time with the very light grey, but applying this in the middle of the stain, blowing off the excess again.
7, finally rub the stain in strokes with clean dry paper towels away from the engines to blend in the colours.
8, turn the plane on its side and scrape the very light grey pastel over the ends of the flame dampers and feather this in and over the wings.
9, a final matt coat over the staining blends/alters the shape of the staining and looks even more realistic.
if you ever do it this way
becareful where your hands are as you don't want to put finger prints in the freshly made stains, if it looks a bit too dark you can simply wash it off and start again, it only took me 15minutes to do that effect on my dambuster.
the wires i used are 'merlin' black nylon invisable thread, the sort that is used by the sewing trade, its very strong and very thin, just right i think in fact i've been asked many a time if a could supply people with a few metres of it.
this wire is attached near the top/front of the stablelizers, i drill very very fine holes to put the thread into, then its just a case of gluing it to the canopy, very carefully
hope this helps well infact i hope it helps everyone.
ian.
oh and welcome to the forums my mystory friend
glad some of my in-builds helped you, what other forum was it on ? just curious !
your lanc' looks very well indeed but needs that touch of the exhaust stains
i never do exhaust staining by airbrush as you can tell straight away that they are done that way and one mishap with the airbrush and its ruined i use good quality artist pastels to do the job.... i use black/dark grey/very light grey pastels to do the staining.1, find references on how the staining looks on what ever your modeling.
2, where you want the staining to be it needs to be a matt suface, so the pastels can be rubbed into the paintwork. [satin or gloss is no good]
3, i scrape the pastel with a sharp knife over the model to make a thin layer black only in the area where the staining is and no where else !,
4, with a wide clean/dry brush i then brush away from the engines, the same way as the airflow, taking care not to brush too much in the middle, blow off the excess.
5, now repeat step 3 but this time using dark grey, but appling the dust to the central part of the stain, brushing away from the engines again, blow off excess.
6, repeat step 3 again
this time with the very light grey, but applying this in the middle of the stain, blowing off the excess again.7, finally rub the stain in strokes with clean dry paper towels away from the engines to blend in the colours.
8, turn the plane on its side and scrape the very light grey pastel over the ends of the flame dampers and feather this in and over the wings.
9, a final matt coat over the staining blends/alters the shape of the staining and looks even more realistic.
if you ever do it this way
becareful where your hands are as you don't want to put finger prints in the freshly made stains, if it looks a bit too dark you can simply wash it off and start again, it only took me 15minutes to do that effect on my dambuster. the wires i used are 'merlin' black nylon invisable thread, the sort that is used by the sewing trade, its very strong and very thin, just right i think in fact i've been asked many a time if a could supply people with a few metres of it.
this wire is attached near the top/front of the stablelizers, i drill very very fine holes to put the thread into, then its just a case of gluing it to the canopy, very carefully
hope this helps well infact i hope it helps everyone.
ian.
oh and welcome to the forums my mystory friend
Good advice Ian!
Heinz
Captain
Welcome Switcha! Great lanc, I love the motorised engines!
Great adivce ian
Great adivce ian
Switcha
Airman 1st Class
Many thanks Ian. It was the Fine Scale Modeler forum that I found your other B III Lanc, Someone else had started it but had muffed it a little. It was great because I also used the instructions in the background which I used to built the turrents for mine as I didn't have any instructions on what part numbers belonged to what.
Many thanks for the info on how to do the exhaust stains. I tried that method once but I did not have the flat clear underneath so it did not work very well. It makes sense once someone tells you.
Did you drill holes into the canopy to put the Merlin thread into, or attached them to the horns on the canopy?
Thanks for the comments guys it's nice to know you are getting it right.
Many thanks for the info on how to do the exhaust stains. I tried that method once but I did not have the flat clear underneath so it did not work very well. It makes sense once someone tells you.
Did you drill holes into the canopy to put the Merlin thread into, or attached them to the horns on the canopy?
Thanks for the comments guys it's nice to know you are getting it right.
- Thread starter
- #88
ian lanc
Senior Airman
god that lanc !!
yes it was a right mess, this guy said i've started it a bit but not too much... can you remember seeing the BLUE inside 
why blue !you should have sent me a message about your instructions missing, i've got 5 sheets of them and i would have gladly sent you a set
the little horns i cut them off ! then i drilled two tiny holes into the canopy.
hope you can get hold of this thread its brill' stuff and very strong and it is alot finer than anything else on the market, i sent some to a guy in america and he told me he had spent all week ripping off cotton/stretched sprue off his models, then replacing it with the merlin thread.
its also good for use on ships 8)
ian
Dragonsinger
Airman
Hi Ian Lanc
Please understand that I have no wish whatsoever to criticise your superb Dambuster Lanc. However a small observation which someone with your attention to detail may find of use is that the Bouncing Bomb in the Barnes Wallis museum at Elvington is green.
If you watch the Dambusters film you see a practice run where the bomb first performs correctly. This was obviously an inert practice bomb and several years ago this bomb was recovered from the sea bed and later given to the Barnes Wallis museum which is contained within the York Air Museum at Elvington.
When I am next over that way I will grab some photos as this is the only one in captivity. I will also get some shots of the Tall Boy and Grand Slam for a bit of variety.
Since this was a practice bomb it may have been a different colour but if I recall correctly all munitions were this colour but the warnings and markings were different. This was Fleet air Arm late 60s and early 70s.
A correction. Missiles sere different, Sidewinders Black, Bullpup, Martel and Redtop were white and Torpedoes basically grey with various colour bandings, but they were carried by various helicopters.
Once again a superb job.
Dragonsinger.
Please understand that I have no wish whatsoever to criticise your superb Dambuster Lanc. However a small observation which someone with your attention to detail may find of use is that the Bouncing Bomb in the Barnes Wallis museum at Elvington is green.
If you watch the Dambusters film you see a practice run where the bomb first performs correctly. This was obviously an inert practice bomb and several years ago this bomb was recovered from the sea bed and later given to the Barnes Wallis museum which is contained within the York Air Museum at Elvington.
When I am next over that way I will grab some photos as this is the only one in captivity. I will also get some shots of the Tall Boy and Grand Slam for a bit of variety.
Since this was a practice bomb it may have been a different colour but if I recall correctly all munitions were this colour but the warnings and markings were different. This was Fleet air Arm late 60s and early 70s.
A correction. Missiles sere different, Sidewinders Black, Bullpup, Martel and Redtop were white and Torpedoes basically grey with various colour bandings, but they were carried by various helicopters.
Once again a superb job.
Dragonsinger.
- Thread starter
- #90
ian lanc
Senior Airman
hi dragonsinger,
i've got no problems with your comment about the colour of the mine
i and several other historians {5 retired ex lancaster pilots/gunners} have looked into the colour of the mines and the green ones where inert bombs, the real mines where a red oxide colour which was later painted matt black the night before the raid. the wood slatted type never worked so was scrapped.i was at elvington last week enjoyed it very much, i got carried right away in talking about lancasters there and i even asked them if they knew why their bomb was green and i wasn't surprized when they said...''it's green because it's a inert practice mine''
and standing at the side of the real grandslam i was amazed at the shear size of it, however a lanc' flew with that under it's belly i'll never know 
Shame their halifax was shoved right at the back of their hanger and had all the other planes/chopper/cars around it really spoilt it
If you ever want to sit down and ever talk to a real lanc' pilot/gunner/nav' go to 'The Dambusters Inn' pub in scampton near RAF Scampton, buy em' a pint and your well away, mainly on a sunday when they are there.
ian
Switcha
Airman 1st Class
god that lanc !!
you should have sent me a message about your instructions missing, i've got 5 sheets of them and i would have gladly sent you a set
the little horns i cut them off ! then i drilled two tiny holes into the canopy.
hope you can get hold of this thread its brill' stuff and very strong and it is alot finer than anything else on the market
ian
Yep the blue was a source of amusment to both Hainus myself. In regards to the missing instructions Hainus only found this forum a few weeks ago and it would have been a lot easier, 20/20 hind sight.
I'm going to look for that thread ASAP. I'm currently using some very fine wire (.005) from the electro magnetic hubs of a 4 wheel motor bike. It is very strong as well but kinks easily and is hard to get straight.
Pictures moved to the thread about Switcha's Lancaster.
http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/modeling/switcha-s-lancaster-pics-14181.html#post378364
[Many,Many thanks for the help Ian.
My next long term project is a 1/24 Trumpeter Bf-109 G-6 early version.
Cheers Switcha
Very Nice!!
Screaming Eagle
Senior Master Sergeant
nice!
Switcha, I also live in CQ, which part do you hail from? I'm from Gladstone myself.
Switcha, I also live in CQ, which part do you hail from? I'm from Gladstone myself.
- Thread starter
- #95
ian lanc
Senior Airman
hey switcha ! change the nose blister to a large one and you'll be well away....
Paragon Designs 1/48 Lancaster Large Bomb Aimers Blister
ian.
Paragon Designs 1/48 Lancaster Large Bomb Aimers Blister
ian.
seesul
Senior Master Sergeant
Hi Ian,
haven´t seen this thread before and your Lanc is just....gorgeous...I really have no words...
Wish I was so patient like you
BTW, how many Lancs are airworthy today and where are they located?
THX
haven´t seen this thread before and your Lanc is just....gorgeous...I really have no words...
Wish I was so patient like you
BTW, how many Lancs are airworthy today and where are they located?
THX
- Thread starter
- #97
ian lanc
Senior Airman
Hi Ian,
haven´t seen this thread before and your Lanc is just....gorgeous...I really have no words...
Wish I was so patient like you
BTW, how many Lancs are airworthy today and where are they located?
THX
Hi seesul,
Theres only two left in the world that are airworthy... one in the United Kingdom and one in Canada.
Don't forget about 'Just Jane' she is fully taxiable and if it wern't for the owners scared of putting her back in the air
there would be three heres three links to them 8) ..........
The Battle of Britain Memorial Flight
Nanton Lancaster Society Air Museum
Lincolnshire Aviation Heritage Centre
ian
hainus
Airman 1st Class
hey screaming eagle, switcha and i are both from Emerald, CQ, we live about 300m from each other
- Thread starter
- #99
ian lanc
Senior Airman
300 miles from each other ! that all
i can just see you lot saying ...'come on lets have dec' at your models
Switcha
Airman 1st Class
Bugger 20/20 hind sight again.
The next one I build will be a dam buster version for my collection so I'll do some serious consulting with you to get it spot on.
Cheers Switch
