Trouble with canopy...

[Pong]

Hi folks!

I have a Tamiya 1/48 BF-109E-4/E-7 TROP that's been sitting on top of a desk for over two months now and just last month I painted the upper and lower surfaces of the model. Now I have a dilemma.

I have several Acrylic paints and I'm going to begin painting the lines on the canopy, but I want to avoid as much as possible painting the glass parts. I've painted canopies freehand on several models and they ended up in a terrible mess. Any tips for painting the canopy without messing up the glass parts?

Thanks in advance.

Arlo

 

[B-17engineer]

Do you have masking tape? If so stick it on the canopy and trace with a marker. Then just cut it out. Or you can buy Micro mask which is a liquid mask that turns into a rubbery tape. Those are two easy ways. Look at Kgambit's Ca-311 thread or even my B-17 thread. Both of us used Tamiya masking tape.

 

[Pong]

Thanks for that Harrison. I will test that on my model guinea pig (An old Tamiya Spitfire) and try it out.

-Arlo

 

[B-17engineer]

No problem Arlo

Guniea Pig models. I like it

 

[r2800doublewasp]

Also you could try getting a small very thin paintbruush and paint with that...thats at least what i do

 

[Pong]

Guniea Pig models. I like it

Most of my Guinea Pigs are old wrecked models. My mom considers throwing them away but I decided to make a couple of modeling experiments with them...

Also you could try getting a small very thin paintbruush and paint with that...thats at least what i do

I'm also considering that, if the masking tape folds up. Thanks for the tip.

-Arlo

 

[darka]

My advice would be to always mask your canopys with masking tape.
It'll take you about half an hour. maybe an hour to get it right (depends on the model you have to mask) but the result you get after you airbrushed your masked canopy is really stunning.

tip: De phases should be
- masking , perhaps some correction with a really, really sharp knive
- airbrush the canopy in the colour of the inside of the cockpit
- over this colour spray a layer black
- final colour over that is the colour of the outside canopy.

after that you spray clear varnishes mat or gloss..

masking should stay on until your model is completely done. Most of the time its the last thing to do when your model is 99% done.

The 3 layers of paint is done because it otherwise shines through and shows a tone difference with the rest of your model.

here's a pic of someone on a dutch forum who perfectly shows you how masking is done..

good luck

Aaron

 

[Pong]

Thanks for the tips Aaron. And it'll probably be a headache since it is a 1/48 BF-109E-4/E-7 TROP, got lots of stuff to mask.

Also, I use acrylics and not an airbrush, though I do want to get an airbrush on my birthday.

 

[Airframes]

You should find the canopy on the '109 fairly straight forward Arlo, as it's all 'square' angles. Just take your time, place the tape, and cut out the areas for each frame using a new, sharp blade. Make sure you press the tape tight into any recessed framework, and run a finger nail, or the back of your scalpel blade along the line, to ensure it's stuck down firmly. If you lightly rub a pencil along the engraved (or raised) framework, it'll show up, making it easier to follow the line.
I also normally use a paintbrush for canopies, unless they're part of the structure, for example on a B26. I normally paint the internal colour of the frame first, even if this has already been done inside the canopy. It not only gives more 'backing' to the internal colour, but also provides a 'key' for the first coat of the desired externall colour. Two coats should be sufficient for the colour scheme of a Bf109 Trop, depending if thinned or not, but don't try to do it with one thick coat! As with all painting, two or more thin coats are always better than one, thick, lumpy coat!!

 

[Wayne Little]

Good points Terry!

 

[Pong]

You should find the canopy on the '109 fairly straight forward Arlo, as it's all 'square' angles. Just take your time, place the tape, and cut out the areas for each frame using a new, sharp blade. Make sure you press the tape tight into any recessed framework, and run a finger nail, or the back of your scalpel blade along the line, to ensure it's stuck down firmly. If you lightly rub a pencil along the engraved (or raised) framework, it'll show up, making it easier to follow the line.
I also normally use a paintbrush for canopies, unless they're part of the structure, for example on a B26. I normally paint the internal colour of the frame first, even if this has already been done inside the canopy. It not only gives more 'backing' to the internal colour, but also provides a 'key' for the first coat of the desired externall colour. Two coats should be sufficient for the colour scheme of a Bf109 Trop, depending if thinned or not, but don't try to do it with one thick coat! As with all painting, two or more thin coats are always better than one, thick, lumpy coat!!

Thanks for that T. My mom prevented me from doing that One Coat mistake a few days ago. She sure was a life saver! Now I am 60% finished with the model and tomorrow I will begin the masking.