Basically, you need to open up between a quarter and one stop, depending on range, subject etc - easily done on the 'old' 35mm SLRs.
This will allow the camera to expose for the subject, rather than the bright background and, given the subject is filling at least 3/4 of the frame, the background can still have enough contrast to be usable, especially if the exposure on the print was 'dodged'.
On current DSLRs, there is normally an 'Exposure Compensation' function, operating, in increments, in '+' and '-', which provides a similar 'service', although perhaps not quite as flexible as the 'old fashioned' way.
I'm still getting to know my Nikon, and can get quite frustrated at times as, being a lower-level DSLR, there are too may functions, aimed at simplification for the amateur, when I'd rather have basic controls instead.