What's on The Workbench

[109ROAMING]

Glad you understood Wojtek

These online translaters are amazing

 

[ground_level_bomber]

Vad Wayne siar är han er intresserad i din bygga emedan din byggningen en unik modell

Hoppas du förstå

ok thanks than i know

 

[Trebor]

heres a pic of how the plane should look like

if that ever went into production, they'd have to make sure the wings would stand up to the pressure, otherwise, the wings would be flying off.

they's be all like: upps

 

[Trebor]

right now, I'm working on the 1/72 Testors F4U-1 Corsair.

I used my airbrush for the first time. th plane dosn't look too good. it's kind of flaking on the left wing, and on the right elevator, had to go over that ith a brush, an there were some fisheye spots as well. I should really wash my models first before I paint them from now on >.>

the top of the model looks horrible >_< but the bottom is REALLY clean.

 

[ground_level_bomber]

if that ever went into production, they'd have to make sure the wings would stand up to the pressure, otherwise, the wings would be flying off.

they's be all like: upps

yes you right. a thing that i what to know is wount the tail brun/melt from the heat of the exhaust flame

 

[Matt308]

right now, I'm working on the 1/72 Testors F4U-1 Corsair.

I used my airbrush for the first time. th plane dosn't look too good. it's kind of flaking on the left wing, and on the right elevator, had to go over that ith a brush, an there were some fisheye spots as well. I should really wash my models first before I paint them from now on >.>

the top of the model looks horrible >_< but the bottom is REALLY clean.

If you are using acrylics, washing is imperative. I just spray the sprues with 409 and run them under warm water and let them dry. Sit them on a paper towel or cloth rag and by the next day you are good to go!

 

[Trebor]

actually, i'm using enamels. no acrylics. it was all Testors, except for the paintbrush and the airbrush

 

[Airframes]

Robert, it's still a good idea to at least clean the model with a damp cloth, then a dry one. You can't always see it, but there's normally always grease etc on the plastic. Some of this is from the release agent used in the moulds, and some from handling. When brush painting, the paint is thicker, and 'moving' across the plastic, and therefore 'takes up' some of this grease, causing less problems. One of the other reasons for the imperfections you have experienced might be due to the thinning ratio of the paint, or, perhaps too much paint in one area. The latter is especially true if you've gone over the same area more than once, before the first coat is fully dry. One of the most important things to remember when using an airbrush, is to keep the 'brush moving, preferably in straight lines, in one direction, and at the same angle; avoid, if possible, twisting your wrist, as this will mean a different spray pattern, and consequently, differing 'thicknesses' of paint in differing areas. If in doubt, practice first. The easiest way to do this is to use ordinary ink, and spray onto a piece of card, preferably smooth surfaced, in order to get used to the brush without wasting paint.
When you are ready to paint an actual model, again, have a practice spray first, using the colour you wish to paint with, immediately before attempting to paint the model. Again, just spray a little onto card, or paper, perhaps whatever is covering your work surface. This will allow you to alter the mix if required, and adjust the 'brush/air settings to suit the job.
It's much better to use a bit more paint etc. than possibly ruin a model by rushing into it. Don't worry though, we've all been there! And it still happens now and again!
Using an airbrush is very similar to using a full-size spray gun - but harder, as everything is miniaturised; it takes practice, and it's nothing to worry about, as even professionals, artists, modellers or car sprayers, still mess-up sometimes!
Hope this helps you a bit.
Terry.

 

[GrauGeist]

Matt, I used to use a mild dishwashing solution for cleaning my model parts, but I never thought of 409...cool idea.

And good advice, Terry...

I've painted countless cars over the years, and out of all the plagues, I think fisheyes are the worst. Especially if it's a metallic paint!

Also keep the distance to your subject the same, the closer you get, the thicker the paint, and the narrower the spread. The further away you get, the thinner the paint coverage becomes.

 

[Trebor]

heh, thanks a lot, erry! that's awesome advice. I think i did put a lot of thinner in the paint. I used the Testors dark sea blue, and dumped the whole lil paint bottle into the container, and then used the clean thinner to get the rest of the gunk out.

anyways, I've finished the Corsair, and the SBD Dauntless. I'll post pics of them when I get the pics combined in Photoshop

 

[Airframes]

Looking forward to them mate!

 

[Wurger]

My 1/33 scale carton model of Su-22M4 still in progress.

 

[Wurger]

and more...

 

[Airframes]

Incredible! That's the first time I've seen this type of card model close up - I didn't realise they were so good! Thanks Wojtek, very interesting, I might try one of the WW2 ones I've seen advertised.

 

[Wurger]

THX Terry.To be honest the kit is a little bit basic but there are much more advanced.The P-51 Mustang III is also nice but I have had its scratch-built.

 

[Airframes]

The basic the better for me! It'll be a whole new learning curve, putting together pre-printed shaped card. I'll be lost without trimming bits with a scalpel, filing and sanding!!

 

[Wurger]

He he he scalpel , sanding is needed also with the paper models.I have attached some pics of P-51 above.

 

[Airframes]

That's impressive, especially the cockpit!

 

[Lucky13]

Fricking awesome Wojtek!

 

[spit5]

Wojtek