special ed
2nd Lieutenant
- 5,848
- May 13, 2018
They don't mix well with cats, dogs and wives LAO.
What's on The Workbench (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Heinz
- Start date
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A4K
Brigadier General
Constant clogging (first was after 2 seconds of spraying! - Vallejo paint), and trigger constantly 'sticking'- my airbrush has had this problem for a long time. Also tried a Humbrol acrylic (85) for the Black parts - absolute disaster. Whether the paint itself, or over-thinning, I don't know, but couldn't remedy it even after cleaning the whole airbrush out again. Ended up respraying with Tamiya Flat Black, which was ok, but would have been better if I had sanded the Humbrol down first - after 2 hours for what I thought would be a 15 min job though, I just wanted it done by that stage...Looks good Evan, what were your issues!
Alot of practice ahead before I paint my serious builds.
Kits are being built OOB, btw. The kids want them gear up with no drop tanks or extra detailing.
fubar57
General
Vallejo hates to be sprayed with anything that isn't Vallejo, especially IPA. If there is any residual in the AB, even days old, the AB is clog up.....ask me. If I've used Tamiya paint and want to use Vallejo shortly, I will run Medea Airbrush Cleaner or VMS through the AB after cleaning and then two AB cups of water through just to make sure
I will use Tamiya Acrylics/Lacquers,MrHobby Lacquers and MM enamels all thinned with MrHobby leveling thinner and acrylics get cleaned quickly with alcohol.I have left my AB with enamels/lacquers overnight uncleaned just forgetting and can clean it 24/36 hrs later did that once with acrylics and lost an AB! 
fubar57
General
What's your thinning ratio with Tamiya and Mr Hobby?
A4K
Brigadier General
Cheers guys!
On memory, the last paint I ran through it (2 years ago!) was Tamiya. My best success with acrylic paint (so far) has been with Tamiya, the Humbrol by far the worst, with AK and Vallejo somewhere down the middle (hit and miss).
Of course, I have alot to learn yet with the airbrush, and it may be that the mix of paints through it may be part of the problem. Or some of the paints are just crap
Will try to get more practice in, it's probably the biggest stumbling block I have with all my builds.
On memory, the last paint I ran through it (2 years ago!) was Tamiya. My best success with acrylic paint (so far) has been with Tamiya, the Humbrol by far the worst, with AK and Vallejo somewhere down the middle (hit and miss).
Of course, I have alot to learn yet with the airbrush, and it may be that the mix of paints through it may be part of the problem. Or some of the paints are just crap
Will try to get more practice in, it's probably the biggest stumbling block I have with all my builds.
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At least 50/50 Geo your MrHobby lacquers come thick from the bottle if it's a high use spray I dilute right then.I have gone as far as 60/40 60% thinner for fine edging and Luft camos.
Evan if it's not to pricey in your neck of the woods give that MrHobby leveling thinner a shot stuff creates a super smooth finish and pressures can drop to 13/17psi.Cheers guys!
On memory, the last paint I ran through it (2 years ago!) was Tamiya. My best success with acrylic paint (so far) has been with Tamiya, the Humbrol by far the worst, with AK and Vallejo somewhere down the middle (hit and miss).
Of course, I have alot to learn yet with the airbrush, and it may be that the mix of paints through it may be part of the problem. Or some of the paints are just crap
Will try to get more practice in, it's probably the biggest stumbling block I have with all my builds.
Vic Balshaw
Major General
One thing I always do is flush out the AB between colour changes and even though I'm using acrylic, after the flushing with water I will give the AB another flush with lacquer thinners. I do find that acrylics can easily clog up the needle nozzle, they tend to dry very quickly in moderately warm temps and leave a light film in the nozzle. As for the AB that gets a good strip down and clean after a long paint session or at the first signs of trouble. Tedious I know, but it's been a lesson learned the hard way. I also now use an acrylic lacquer paint for the major colours, they flow so easy and give a good clean finish.
A4K
Brigadier General
Beauty, cheers guys.
PlasticHero
Senior Airman
I use Tamiya and thin it with alcohol except for natural metal. When done I clean the cup and add alcohol and spray till it is clear. Then I add a drop of needle juice to store it. When starting, I add a few drops of alcohol to clear it out. When I feel the airbrush is getting a little grimy, I strip and clean everything. Oops not that alcohol, that's for me.
Donivanp
Major
To test I use the last one and spray in my mouth but I use the BIGGEST cup.
A4K
Brigadier General
More good advice (hic!) . Cheers guys
SaparotRob
Unter Gemeine Geschwader Murmeltier XIII
Donivanp
Major
He, the more you test your an this way the better your models look, well till tomorrow.
It's the modeling tips here that really improve the quality of life.
fubar57
General
Getting back to my Eduard 109G-6. I'm stalled out here. Can't figure out what is supposed to plug in here
Oh the multiversion kits . Geo ... it is the Eduard's nod to these who want to have the Bf 109G-6 and the later kites with the FuG 16ZY radio set installed. It is the mount for the underwing antenna. The correct parts no.17 and 9 should be found with the I and U sprues. If you don't have the parts there you have to fill the slot for it either with a putty or a pices of polistyrene. However it is possible the U9 part is there what would make the filling easier. Certainly you have to check if the aircraft had the antenna mounted before filling the slot. The early G-6 didn't have the one there and there was the short mast for the antenna wire at the fuselage top behind the cockpit hood instead.
fubar57
General
Thank you my friend. This is about to get awkward. I had my started model sitting on this open kit
Clear part #U9 isn't on the sprue. I'm searching through the sprue bags, checking the instructions, noting the antenna is there but no clear part. As I am going through the box, yet again, an uneasy feeling creeps in. This kit is a "Dual Combo", two kits in one box. I've already built one kit yet there are fuselage and wing halves still on the sprues as well as a whack of detailing parts that should have been used on this build. Moments tick by and I slowly turn to my stash and half way down the pile I see this kit
I open it up, no fuselage or wing halves, no innards, clear part "U9". I have no idea how the model ended up on the wrong box. Anyhoo.....this will be "White 43"
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I see Pal. However the Eduard's kits for the G-6 ( also G-10 and G-14 ) are of the same line for the fighter. The content of the sprues may vary for these kits. For instance, the no.84201 Bf 109G-6 Erla, 84173 Bf 109G-6, 84169 Bf 109G-6/AS - The Weekend Edition have the wing without the slot there while the no. 82119 Bf 109G-10 Mtt Regensburg and the 82162 Bf 109G-14/AS - Profipack have the wing with the underwing antenna. Also having the dual combo series you may find there a mix of the G variants as the option in one box. So if you used one set of the parts, you have the another one left. Additionally the U sprue may contain the different set of the parts there because of the variants the kit offeres for assembling. It should be kept in mind that the Gustav version varied from the kites produced in 1943 to these assembled at the beginning 1944 , in the mid and at the end of the year. All depended on the factory and the components that were delivered. Certainly it can't be excluded the Eduard has packed the two different wing sprues for the kit. But I don't think it is a problem in the case.
