Wood Grain Technique?

Discussion in 'Painting Questions, Tutorials and Guidebooks' started by Vengeance, Jun 10, 2014.

  1. Vengeance

    Vengeance Member

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2012
    Messages:
    87
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Occupation:
    Musician/Student
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Ratings:
    +2 / 0 / -0
    Hi Guys,
    Looking for a good tutorial for creating a wood grain look, mainly for the propeller of a WW1 biplane I'm going to attempt, but also the inside of the fuselage.
    I've heard rumours of a useful technique using Oil paint over the Acrylic base coat but I don't really understand the process. Could anyone enlighten me or direct me to a tutorial somewhere!!
    Thanks in advance!!
    Cheers,
    Vengeance
     
  2. javlin

    javlin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2007
    Messages:
    4,911
    Likes Received:
    300
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Occupation:
    Mgr
    Location:
    MS
    Ratings:
    +378 / 0 / -0
    • Like Like x 1
  3. meatloaf109

    meatloaf109 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2012
    Messages:
    6,704
    Likes Received:
    257
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Occupation:
    student
    Location:
    north carolina
    Ratings:
    +303 / 0 / -0
    That is where I was going to direct you also.
    Quick tip, mark the prop all around with a pencil held horizontally to the prop on the bench, then move the pencil up with one, two or three credit cards (depending on the scale) and mark again. this will give you a way to "layer" the prop. Most WW1 propellers had 4 layers, but, of course, there were many differences. Choose a good tan and red brown for the different laminates and apply according to the lines. When dry, apply some streaks of grain. I usually use one darker red brown color dry, (and I mean dry), brushed over both tan and red brown and then apply a coat of clear semi-gloss for that varnished look.
    You can also use colored pencils to simulate wood grain in smaller scales, dots and dashes, mostly. The trick is to know when to stop. If you work on a prop and say, "just a couple more". STOP. It's good as it is.
     
  4. Vengeance

    Vengeance Member

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2012
    Messages:
    87
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Occupation:
    Musician/Student
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Ratings:
    +2 / 0 / -0
    Thanks Guys, they look interesting!
     
  5. Rogi

    Rogi Active Member

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2011
    Messages:
    2,187
    Likes Received:
    18
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Ratings:
    +25 / 0 / -1
    Best steps to follow as listed above, you usually edit the steps a bit here and there depending on the climate in your area.
     
  6. Crimea_River

    Crimea_River Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2008
    Messages:
    27,438
    Likes Received:
    1,573
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Calgary
    Ratings:
    +2,176 / 3 / -2
  7. Vengeance

    Vengeance Member

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2012
    Messages:
    87
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Occupation:
    Musician/Student
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Ratings:
    +2 / 0 / -0
    Thanks for the tip Crimea (and others) the help is mighty helpful!!!!
     
Loading...

Share This Page