# Plz i need some help i ruined my b29 monogram



## Justine (Mar 6, 2018)

Ok. This is only my second plane .The first was b17. I didn't research how to build it right So I wanted to build the anola gay. I wanted to make it perfect .I followed a guy on YouTube that built the same model. Anyway everything was going good until I put the wings on and tried to sand in the gaps .I had trouble with this .I never did it before .I would sand then primer .The primer would show cracks that I missed when sanding .I went through this for hours trying to smooth out all the gabs .After my last primer I added the antenas and covered the canopy with clear elmers glue .Also did the same with mufflers. Then sprayed the entire plane chrome .That showed allot of flaws and finger prints .I had to sand some areas again and repaint. Then. For the gray strip area across the wings I painted gray .I did let it dry for 3 days .When I took the tape off around the gray it ripped off the chrome paint around it. So I waited another 3 days and taped the gray and repainted the chrome around it .Days later I peeled the tape off the gray and the tape ripped off the gray paint. It didn't trip it all off but you can see the shades marks .So .I ruined my plane. I did use the wrong shade of gray anyway. I also messed up the engine cover by trying to make paint dry faster by putting it to close to the heater and it melted. I put it on the plane anyway. I worked so hard on this plane. I don't think it can be repaired .It has allot of lawyers of paint. I let it dry for a week and still get finger prints on it .So I guess I used the wrong type of paint. Wrong tape .Wrong putty .Idk .So .Can someone give me a list of the correct items I need to build these models correctly. Maybe send me a link to a store .thank you

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## Wurger (Mar 6, 2018)

What kind of the masking tape did you used? What brand of the chrome and grey colours? What putty?


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## Justine (Mar 6, 2018)

Wurger said:


> What kind of the masking tape did you used? What brand of the chrome and grey colours? What putty?



I used rustolium chrome metallic. Same for gray primer .The tape I don't know .Its blue


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## Wurger (Mar 6, 2018)

OK. So you used the blue tape for painters didn't you. You need the Tamiya masking tape that is dedicated for modelling. The difference is the adhesive that is not so strong as the one of the blue tape. . As a putty I can recommend the Tamiya White Putty. For sanding you need sandpaper of two grades.The first one 800-900 and the second one of 1100-1200 for finishing.

Judging by your wards you followed the incorrect way for preparation and painting process. Also you shouldn't use the rustolium chrome metallic and the grey primer. The paints are offered as a spray in cans. Am I right? These may be good for cars but not models IMHO.

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## Justine (Mar 6, 2018)

Also bondo putty


Wurger said:


> OK. So you used the blue tape for painters didn't you. You need the Tamiya masking tape that is dedicated for modelling. The difference is the adhesive that is not so strong as the one of the blue tape. . As a putty I can recommend the Tamiya White Putty. For sanding you need sandpaper of two grades.The first one 800-900 and the second one of 1100-1200 for finishing.
> 
> Judging by your wards you followed the incorrect way for preparation and painting process. Also you shouldn't use the rustolium chrome metallic and the grey primer. The paints are offered as a spray in cans. Am I right? These may be good for cars but not models IMHO.



Yes it was spray cans. Ok. Is there a way to fix my b29? Also I'm ordering another b17 .Can't afford another b29 yet . Can you tell me were to get those item's? There are no craft shops in my area. Guess I gotta order online ?


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## Wurger (Mar 6, 2018)

Looking at you IP I see you come from the USA right? If you do there shouldn't be any troble to find an online shop around. What is your area- town,if I may ask of course?


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## Justine (Mar 6, 2018)

Wurger said:


> Looking at you IP I see you come from the USA right? If you do there shouldn't be any troble to find an online shop around. What is your area- town,if I may ask of course?



Yes.Thank you.


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## Wurger (Mar 6, 2018)

OK... threa are two ways to fix the model. The first one is to wash off the entire paint and the primer from the model. That's quite time consuming way but IMHO that's the best one. The second way I, would suggest , is to sand the model surfaces slightly with the fine sand paper in order to get it matt and smouth.. I mean the one of 1100-1200 grade to remove all these imperfections on there. If you need to use the putty to fill these gaps at the wing roots that's the moment..It seems you don't need to sand the entire model but the wing tops with the fuselage area with the grey only . When sanding is done the model has to be washed up with a soap and warm water to remove the dust and other crumbs. Then re-apply the grey colour. Instead of the rost olium paints I would suggest the Testors Spary cans. But if you want you may stay with these rust olium ones. The grey should be applied on the wing tops in the way it should cover the all wing surface from the leading edge to the trailing one. When cured you have to mask the grey areas there with the Tamiya tape. Having that done you may re-apply the chrome paint but with really very thin layer.. The masking should be removed carefully as soon as you apply the chrome. The reason the first attempt failed, is the thickness of the coat and the paint itself.

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## Justine (Mar 6, 2018)

Hello . You sent me a message about taking the paint off my plane. But I can't read the entire thing .Its not posted on website. It just came to my email . Weird


Wurger said:


> OK... threa are two ways to fix the model. The first one is to wash off the entire paint and the primer from the model. That's quite time consuming way but IMHO that's the best one. The second way I, would suggest , is to sand the model surfaces slightly with the fine sand paper in order to get it matt and smouth.. I mean the one of 1100-1200 grade to remove all these imperfections on there. If you need to use the putty to fill these gaps at the wing roots that's the moment..It seems you don't need to sand the entire model but the wing tops with the fuselage area with the grey only . When sanding is done the model has to be washed up with a soap and warm water to remove the dust and other crumbs. Then re-apply the grey colour. Instead of the rost olium paints I would suggest the Testors Spary cans. But if you want you may stay with these rust olium ones. The grey should be applied on the wing tops in the way it should cover the all wing surface from the leading edge to the trailing one. When cured you have to mask the grey areas there with the Tamiya tape. Having that done you may re-apply the chrome paint but with really very thin layer.. The masking should be removed carefully as soon as you paint the chrome. The reason you failed for the first attempt , is the thickness of the coat and the paint itself.


 Ok thank you


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## Vic Balshaw (Mar 6, 2018)

You could try Sprue Brothers Models in metro Kansas City, Missouri a very good on-line shop.
http://spruebrothers.com/

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## Wurger (Mar 6, 2018)

Justine said:


> Hello . You sent me a message about taking the paint off my plane. But I can't read the entire thing .Its not posted on website. It just came to my email . Weird
> 
> Ok thank you




Humm.. strange.. how about now? Can you see my post fully? The quotation in your post seems to be fine and the whole text is quoted.


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## Donivanp (Mar 6, 2018)

As for the engine cowls go to Revell site and request replacement parts. Www.revell.com


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## Justine (Mar 7, 2018)

Wurger said:


> Humm.. strange.. how about now? Can you see my post fully? The quotation in your post seems to be fine and the whole text is quoted.


Yes

Thank you for all your help. I just ordered Tamiya putty, tape and some sandpaper. I looked at the Tamiya paints but for now there to expensive for me at this time .I'm trying to save for airbrush. I do kinda like the rustolium metallic for the b29. Its the cheapest thing and closest I can get to look chrome . I ordered a b17 I'll probably use silver for that. As far as my b29 .I'm not giving up .There are way to many coats on it .I'm gonna first try to sand the imperfections and do more putty work. If I can't make it right that way I'll have to strip off all paint and primer as you suggested . That's not gonna be fun lol .I'll post as I go. I know I'll have more questions

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## Wurger (Mar 7, 2018)

OK. However it may be a trouble to remove the rustoilum paint. Usually modellers use different types of painteededs and their removing is more easier. Therefore I suggested the soft sanding. Using the way you don't need to sand down to the bare plastic. Just to make the coat matt and smooth without these imperfections. The kind of colours have to be sprayed with very thin layer. I would say sputtered only. This results in not peeling off. What is more the primer isn't needed. It is enough to wash a model up with the warm water and a dishwashing liquid for instance. This removes the dust , fingerprints etc... Instead of the primer you could spray the grey colour overall and then mask these needed grey areas with the masking tape and then apply the chrome coat. The way would let you save one or more layers of paint wouldn't it?


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## Justine (Mar 7, 2018)

Wurger said:


> OK. However it may be a trouble to remove the rustoilum paint. Usually modellers use different types of painteededs and their removing is more easier. Therefore I suggested the soft sanding. Using the way you don't need to sand down to the bare plastic. Just to make the coat matt and smooth without these imperfections. The kind of colours have to be sprayed with very thin layer. I would say sputtered only. This results in not peeling off. What is more the primer isn't needed. It is enough to wash a model up with the warm water and a dishwashing liquid for instance. This removes the dust , fingerprints etc... Instead of the primer you could spray the grey colour overall and then mask these needed grey areas with the masking tape and then apply the chrome coat. The way would let you save one or more layers of paint wouldn't it?


 Why yes it would ! Lol .I didn't think of it like that .I watched a guy on YouTube it looked like he sprayed it all first then the grey. Also .About liquid masking. I used clear elmers glue via toothpick and worked great. Took allot of time though .I then tried to use it on my exhausts cause I glued them on before painting .I did this cause a suck at glueing and didn't wanna mess up my paint. Well.... It kinda pedaled off but not really...ended up scratching the exhaust paint. Now they gotta be repainted. I can't find good liquid masking anywhere around here so was gonna order some online but Idk. I'm very low on funds since I'm not working right now . I'll just stick to the tape and just use the glue for the clear parts .I also just ordered the crawling on revell site .Thanks for suggestion .That's gonna take awhile to come in .On meantime though I'll resume to try my repairs. Thank you so much


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## Justine (Mar 7, 2018)

I ment the helmed glue on the canopy via toothpick.


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## Wurger (Mar 7, 2018)

OK Grasped.

Using of the stuff that ,not necessarily intended for modelling, isn't something wrong. Of course a couple of things has to be taken into consideration. For instance, the thickeness of a paint pigment ( granularity ), adhesion and many more. If you are going to use a glue that isn't dedicated for putting plastic parts together you have to check how it can affect the plastic surface. In other words what is the kind of the thinner there. I could mention much more but it would be enough for a quite thick book. :lol.
Also , using the YouTube films is useful or helpful but not always. What could work out for the author might not be successful for followers.
That's a pity you haven't came here and had started a thread before you started painting. It really would allow to avoid the problems you met. So if you are going to stay with the modelling for longer I suggest staying with us here on the forum. We would be happy if you could creat more thered for other models. There is a really nice gang of very skilled guys here you may get advice and help from.

BTW.. here is my old 1/72 scale model of a Tempest V. It was painted with the Humbrol enamels but the primer I used, was the rustoilum kind of paint in spray. I applied the rustoilum aluminium colour and waited two days for curing.Then I starte applying the camouflage. Unfortunately masking tape damaged the primer coat while trying to remove it. Just then entire layer peeled off at the fuselage D-day strips and the horizontal stabilizer.. To fix that I had to sand the damaged areas a little bit to eliminate the "step" between the remaining coat and the bare plastic there. Then I re-applied the aluminium at the damaged areas just sprying a very thin layer and then applied the Humbrol enamels. IMHO the surfaces look quite nice without any trace of the fixing.


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## Justine (Mar 7, 2018)

Wow very nice! I wouldn't be able to do something like that yet...I don't think lol. I want to learn camouflage and weathering when I get more experience and airbrushed .I want to do the Memphis Belle at some point. Before I began my b29 I posted a thread about painting and got a ton of good advice .But I didn't do allot of what I was told mainly because of expense. I was trying to do the plane as cheap as possible .I had that damn blue tape laying around and that's what put the icing on the cake in ruining the plane. I continued do work on the plane without coming here to ask much needed questions. I really appreciate all your help .Since my crawling is not coming for about 4 weeks I'm just
Gonna put the b29 to the side for now. I will probably have more questions as I build the b17 . I should actually just do smaller planes till I get better but damn I really love the bombers. My mother wants me to build her a p51 redtail..I will do that to .But through all this .I'm having a blast! Lol. As far as masking I'll look for the correct stuff to get. Thank u!


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## Wurger (Mar 7, 2018)

I see and THX for kind words.Oh by the way.. you don't need to quote each my post. Just please post your without this. 
Unfortunately not always you may avoid costs for the hobby. Most of guys including me keep looking for cheaper stuff e.g a thinner or just a masking tape. Of course there is a such stuff. Unfortunately it may be useful for different works but not for modelling. For instance you used the blue tape. But there is another one ( see the pic below ). It looks almost like the Tamiya tape but its adhesive is a little bit stronger. Additionally it may leave some of the adhesive deposit on a model surface and the tape is thicker what result in being more hard. The Tamiya tape is elastic what allows to string it to all kinds of surface. The same way a putty. if you want to save some money you may use a mix of a grey paint with some of talc powder.. The kind of a putty characterises by an ability of removing its excesses without sanding. It is enough to apply it and then gently clean with a soaked with the paint thinner , cloth leaving the putty in the filled gaps..






The size of modells isn't a problem of skills but actually of the price.. There are kits of different scales offered. For instance 1/48, 1/32 , 1/24. But the cost may be the reason for giving then up . However for those who can't afford them I would suggest cardboard models. Could you imagine the B-17 or B-29 of the 1/33 scale? But these are offered too. I have seen a couple of them assembled. Really great view for these who like bombers. The cost of a such paper kit is abot 13.5-21 USD dollars. The main advantage is you don't need to paint and apply decals etc.. The main tool reqiured , are scissors. If you don't believe have a look here .. [G] BOEING B-17G Flying Fortress - Wersja do druku and a shot of ready model...






Here is my 1/33 scale cardboard P-51 Mustang and Su-22M4 till under construction...


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## Justine (Mar 7, 2018)

Oh how beautiful .Yea I've seen those paper models .I've wondered how the he'll do ya do something like that. Certainly I would like to try sometime. Well now I ordered the right putty I would attempt what you sugested. I was absolutely not happy with the bondo putty. I can't wait to try my new found wisdom on my next plane lol  I know I'll have more questions as I go. I'm not gonna go forth with something again that I'm not sure of .


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## mikewint (Mar 7, 2018)

As above, a number of different questions arise and most were asked aboveand answered.
My $.02: For putty to crack it sounds as though you had a large gap to fill. Mayhap a bit more of dry fitting and sanding of the bare plastic could/might narrow the gap to be filled. Next,: Putty fill does not have to be sanded. After filling use a Q-tip dipped in nail polish remover (like Cutex) and rub it across the fill. Don't use a lot of of Cutex and don't let the Q-tip get clogged with putty. Basically putty is really thick paint so use more Q-tips as needed to smooth the fill. Remember nail polish remover is essentially Acetone with will affect the plastic of the model if you use too much. Once smooth allow time for the Cutex to evaporate then perhaps a bit of fine (1200 grit) finish sanding if necessary. There is a tutorial in the modeling section for more detailed instructions.
Rustoleum and such commercial paints are really not formulated for plastic models, stick to MODEL-paints either enamels or acrylics. Rattle can MODEL-lacquers like Tamiya's also work very well as the harsh solvents actually "eat" into the plastics and thus help anchor the paint to the plastic.
Lastly I tend to disagree about Tamiya's masking tape. It Has a very high Tack (stickyness). It is excellent for bare plastic but I've always found that it tends to remove paint as well when removed. You need a LOW tack masking tape for painted areas. If you want to use commercial-type painting-type masking tapes look for tapes marked GENTLE or go to an actual Paint Store and ask. House painter's tape is rated by how many days it can be left up without leaving residue on the surface being masked. It is available in 1-, 3-, 7-, 14-, 30-, and 60-day ratings, with the 7- and 14-day tapes being the most common. *The longer-rated tapes are typically less adhesive,* and are sold for use on smooth, delicate surfaces such as vinyl wallpaper and recently painted walls.
An alternative to Masking-type tapes is DRAFTING TAPE, it looks similar to ordinary household masking tape, but has a lower tack. It is intended to hold blueprints to a drawing board or light table, and to *pull off easily without damaging the drawing.*


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## Airframes (Mar 7, 2018)

A quick tip to reduce the tackiness of Tamiya tape, and similar types of tape. Cut the length you need, and then run this between finger and thumb, with a little grip pressure, just enough to allow the tape to move between your finger and thumb.
I normally do this twice, lightly, but if I really want to reduce the tackiness, I do it three or four times.
The tape will still stick, and to remove it, lift an edge, and keep the tape between 45 degrees and vertical to the surface, peeling gently but in one single movement.
Before Tamiya tape came onto the market (similar, 'Kabuti' tapes were used in the graphic arts for many years before this), I used to use clear parcel tape (Sellotape in the UK, 3M Scotch in the USA), and did the same thing. I have very, very rarely experienced paint lifting with any of these tapes, when used as described.
I agree about the Rustoleum paints - they are designed for 'heavy duty' use on outdoor materials, such as metal gates, car wheels etc etc, and are an anti-rust protective coating, far too heavy for model use.


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## mikewint (Mar 7, 2018)

Airframes said:


> A quick tip to reduce the tackiness of Tamiya tape


Thanks Terry, had not thought of that but will try in the future. I've also used Post-It notes and had some success on flat even surfaces but the adhesive is too low tack to work on curves. Been using Drafting tape lately and I find it works very nicely on painted surfaces.
Tamiya's white tape for curved surfaces also has a nice low tack and I've used it as well


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## Justine (Mar 7, 2018)

Oh wow! Thank you so much for all the info. Yes I had huge gaps to fill. The Bondi putty was so hard to level out. I spent hours and hours putting and sanding .And still there where cracks when I primered .Then I would sand some more and add more primer. Rinse and repeat. Was a nightmare . Unfortunatly I just ordered Tamiya tape damnit . I really have no money left. I ordered a bunch of different sizes .Cost me $25.00 .That's allot for me since I'm unable to work at the moment and bairly have an income . Do you suggest anyway I can use Tamiya tape? If not. Maybe I can return it and get what you suggested


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## Airframes (Mar 7, 2018)

No need to return the Tamiya tape - probably more than 95% of modellers use it, and similar tapes, probably from the same manufacturer, under a different brand name.
Drafting tape and other specialist tapes work fine, but it's extra expense, extra stock lying around, and not really needed.
Heck, I used the clear 'Sellotape' and ordinary decorators masking tape for around 30 years, before Tamiya were even started, without problems ! 
Use the tips posted above, and you shouldn't have a problem.
I use two sizes, in the 'refill packs', these being 10mm, and, very rarely, the 40mm, for wide areas only, with 10mm holding the edges.
The wide Taimya tapes are a slightly different material, less tack, and designed for covering large areas. If I need narrower lengths, then I lay a piece of 10mm tape on the cutting mat, and cut strips the required length and width.


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## Justine (Mar 7, 2018)

Ok thanks I'll keep the tape lol


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## Wurger (Mar 7, 2018)

Just to show you the process of assembling of cardboard modles. The building of cardboard models isn't very difficult but similar to other kinds of modelling requires some patience and accuracy. Depeding on a model constructiion ( eg. a plane ) it consists of reinforcing parts and covering we call meshes and those reinforcing parts just "skeleton". Actually the reinforcing is a set of bulkheads for a fuselage and aerofoils plus stringers for wings and tails. The meshes are printed as flat parts and need to be shaped and then wrapped around bulkheads ( skeleton ) making sections of the fuselage for example. Wings and tails of small wingspan can be made as one mesh while those of large one can be of two or more meshes. Here a couple of shots .. All reinforcing parts has to be backed with thick cardboard to make them stiff.


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## Wurger (Mar 7, 2018)

The final effect you may see here...










Also you may add some details to the model interior or exterior. Just it is up to you only.


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## Wurger (Mar 7, 2018)

Oh I criss-crossed posts.. I agree with Airframes. There is no need to return the Tamiya tape. But you didn't have to order all of the tape sizes. It would be enogh to buy the medium size for larger areas and the narrow one for hard-to-reach places. Or just the medium size only.

OK back to your model and the gaps at the wning root. Mike described one of the ways the can be used. However the best way for avoiding the kind of gaps is to check on the fitting of parts at the area and trimming the part edges. In the way you either won't need the putty there or limit the apperture to the very narrow chink that can be sealed with a paint.


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## Justine (Mar 7, 2018)

Wurger said:


> Oh I criss-crossed posts.. I agree with Airframes. There is no need to return the Tamiya tape. But you didn't have to order all of the tape sizes. It would be enogh to buy the medium size for larger areas and the narrow one for hard-to-reach places. Or just the medium size only.
> 
> OK back to your model and the gaps at the wning root. Mike described one of the ways the can be used. However the best way for avoiding the kind of gaps is to check on the fitting of parts at the area and trimming the part edges. In the way you either won't need the putty there or limit the apperture to the very narrow chink that can be sealed with a paint.


This may be a stupid beginner question ....I paint the small parts while there still in the mold
But as you probably know when I cut them out there's no paint where it was attached. I usually just dab a lil paint in that area before I apply it. I don't know how else to do it. Also what do you guys use to hold you model up to work and paint..is there something I can buy?


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## Justine (Mar 7, 2018)

Wurger said:


> The final effect you may see here...
> 
> View attachment 485275
> 
> ...


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## Justine (Mar 7, 2018)

Wurger said:


> Oh I criss-crossed posts.. I agree with Airframes. There is no need to return the Tamiya tape. But you didn't have to order all of the tape sizes. It would be enogh to buy the medium size for larger areas and the narrow one for hard-to-reach places. Or just the medium size only.
> 
> OK back to your model and the gaps at the wning root. Mike described one of the ways the can be used. However the best way for avoiding the kind of gaps is to check on the fitting of parts at the area and trimming the part edges. In the way you either won't need the putty there or limit the apperture to the very narrow chink that can be sealed with a paint.


Omg That is so amazing! I never thought that much work went into those. I'm DEFINITELY going to try that. But I'll be here asking allot of questions for sure! Thank you for sharing


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## Justine (Mar 7, 2018)

Oh if you got a reply from me it was ment for another guy. I edited the post .


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## Wurger (Mar 7, 2018)

OK. No problemo. 

The painting of small parts in the way you follow is OK. but it is forgotten often that as other parts they may require of some work on. One of a such area is just the place where a part is attached to the sprue. When a part is painted like you said there is no paint when cutting off the part. Unfortunately not always it is possible to cut the part without the trace of the sprue. That's the reason for I don't follow the way. Always cut off parts that I need firstly , work on them ( removing of seams eg.. ) then check on fitting and fit tham to other parts. When it is done I use clothes pins and toothpiks for holding of parts while painting. These flat parts can be kept up with the masking tape. It is useful for painting with a brush, an airbrush or spray cans. The masking tape is just the one for painters.and is suitable for this greatly.. Also you may use pieces of spongue or styrofoam and toothpicks for keeping all parts that have holes eg wheels.

A couple of shots...


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## Justine (Mar 7, 2018)

Wurger said:


> OK. No problemo.
> 
> The painting of small parts in the way you follow is OK. but it is forgotten often that as other parts they may require of some work on. One of a such area is just the place where a part is attached to the sprue. When a part is painted like you said there is no paint when cutting off the part. Unfortunately not always it is possible to cut the part without the trace of the sprue. That's the reason for I don't follow the way. Always cut off parts that I need firstly , work on them ( removing of seams eg.. ) then check on fitting and fit tham to other parts. When it is done I use clothes pins and toothpiks for holding of parts while painting. These flat parts can be kept up with the masking tape. It is useful for painting with a brush, an airbrush or spray cans. The masking tape is just the one for painters.and is suitable for this greatly.. ALso you may use pieces of spongue or styrofoam and toothpick for keeping all parts that have holes eg wheels.
> 
> ...


Oh wow. Thank you!


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## Wurger (Mar 7, 2018)

A large piece of the styrofoam is a great base for holding models at all stages of the painting and decalling and varnishing processes. I use the skewers instead of the toothpick to set the entire model. Here the example.


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## Justine (Mar 7, 2018)

Wurger said:


> A large piece of the styrofoam is a great base for holding models at all stages of the painting and decalling and varnishing processes. I use the skewers instead of the toothpick to set the entire model. Here the example.
> 
> View attachment 485299
> 
> ...


Ohhhhh I see..ok but how do you paint underneath? You just flip it around? So you paint underneath first then do the top?


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## Wurger (Mar 7, 2018)

The model is of 1/24 scale and I was forced to use another way to paint the undersides. As you may notice the model was painted overall with the light blue colour firstly. The paint is not only the primer but also the colour of undersides .So my first step was to attach the skwers at the main landing gear slots and the tail one. And then I pressed them into the styrofoam at correct places making the correct setting. Now I could take the model with my hand leaving the wooden sticks pressed into the styrofoam..Then holding the model nose masked with the tape I applied the paint on the undesides and sides partially. Then I put the model on the skwers and finished applying on tops. The first pic in the post #36 is that moment. Then I waited to next day when the paint was cured and applied the another colour of the camo of course masking firstly.

If you would like you may go through my thread for Bf 109E building. I'm sure you can find there someting interesting for you. Here the link...

Airfix 1/24 scale Bf109E.....or a bed of thorns

As you may find the large piece of the styrofoam with a couple of the toothpicks is also good base for transportation of a model.






Btw.. small parts can also be holding while painting with some of plasticine...






Additinally .. there are offered special stands for painting of models but these are the additional costs of course.


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## Justine (Mar 7, 2018)

Thank you so much for helping me. I will definitely check out your link. The plane is beautiful .


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## Wurger (Mar 7, 2018)

Thank you . My pleasure. Here the next modelling stand offered by shops... and for small 1/72 scale models I use a wooden stick or my round jeweller's file put into the hole in the model nose where the prop rotation shaft is attached. It allows me to flip the model around and put away if needed. So I don't need to buy these stands.


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## TheRealMrEd (Mar 8, 2018)

Hi, just a few suggestions:

First, look in your area for a 1" wide roll of yellow Shurtape #CP-60 (which stands for 60-day release) masking tape . This is very close to the same type as Tamiya Tape, but much cheaper. Even so, before putting it on the model, rub the tape across your forehead; this will add a touch of skin oil to make the tape even less sticky. The Shurtape also comes in wider rolls, but is more expensive. Usually available through hardware as well as big box stores.

Next, you need to make certain that ALL your materials are compatible. You can intermingle lacquer, enamel and acrylic paints, but you have to know how to do it. I pretty much use only Model Master enamels and Alclad II paints, because they play nice together. I PRIME EVERYTHING, except the clear parts...

I start with Alclad II grey primer, unless I'm looking to paint a natural metal surface, then generally, I'll use a black primer or gloss enamel. I then paint the metallics, let them dry, mask them off, then overshoot the other colors, usually enamel. I use an acrylic topcoat -- usually some sort of Alclad topcoat. With proper drying times, etc. I rarely ever have any paint lift while masking.

I usually hear this problem mentioned more frequently when acrylics are used throughout, but many modelers have overcome these issues. You'll just have to search a while on-line for others' experiences, then pick your options.

As far as putty goes, you may have bought the wrong kind of Bondo. If yours requires mixing a hardener with the base product, you bought the wrong kind for plastic modeling. You want "Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty", used to fill pinholes in regular Bondo, when used for automotive repairs. The correct stuff requires no hardener, and is much easier to sand. and it's much cheaper than Tamiya, on a per-ounce basis! Available at auto parts houses -- an industry standard in the U.S.

I recommend that you just bite the bullet, and start buying the correct items, one thing at a time, as you can afford it; add it to the stash and then store or take care of it properly. Eventually, you'll have what you need, and remember, it will never be cheaper than it is right now! Everything eventually rises in price, so eventually, you'll be modeling for a lot cheaper than younger modelers, at that time. For example, I still have some paints and even decals that I bought in the early 1970's, that I still use from time to time. It always makes me chuckle when I see the old price tags of $.79 - $1.29 on the bottles.

Modeling is a lifetime experience, and while it doesn't hurt at all to experiment, start building for the future.

One more thing, if you screw up a model beyond repair, save all the parts. One day, you'll need that spare engine or wheel for something. I never throw away anything that comes in a model box, INCLUDING the sprues of plastic!

Good luck from a close to ancient modeler...

Ed


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## Justine (Mar 10, 2018)

Wurger said:


> OK... threa are two ways to fix the model. The first one is to wash off the entire paint and the primer from the model. That's quite time consuming way but IMHO that's the best one. The second way I, would suggest , is to sand the model surfaces slightly with the fine sand paper in order to get it matt and smouth.. I mean the one of 1100-1200 grade to remove all these imperfections on there. If you need to use the putty to fill these gaps at the wing roots that's the moment..It seems you don't need to sand the entire model but the wing tops with the fuselage area with the grey only . When sanding is done the model has to be washed up with a soap and warm water to remove the dust and other crumbs. Then re-apply the grey colour. Instead of the rost olium paints I would suggest the Testors Spary cans. But if you want you may stay with these rust olium ones. The grey should be applied on the wing tops in the way it should cover the all wing surface from the leading edge to the trailing one. When cured you have to mask the grey areas there with the Tamiya tape. Having that done you may re-apply the chrome paint but with really very thin layer.. The masking should be removed carefully as soon as you apply the chrome. The reason the first attempt failed, is the thickness of the coat and the paint itself.


Ok .I just got my sand paper and Tamya putty in mail. I decided to sand the entire plane. There are tons of mistakes and way to many coats of paint .As far as the grey .When I'm done sanding as you mentioned I'll spray the entire wings grey then tape areas where I want grey. Paint the plane and remove the tape where the grey is right away .I'm going to start this now I just wanted to check in with you. Also .Should I use any thinner at all while I sand?


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## Justine (Mar 10, 2018)

Oh also. Should I paint the cawlings grey as well because they have grey on the top edges


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## mikewint (Mar 10, 2018)

Sanding is going to remove a lot of fine detail. You are better off using one of the paint removing suggestions like oven cleaner. Spray it on let it set for 24 hours or so and then just wash it off and use a tooth brush. I'm pretty sure that the rustoleum is an enamel. Check the label. If it is lacquer there is a product called CITRISTRIP that is an excellent paint remover has no fumes and will stay wet for +24hours


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## Justine (Mar 10, 2018)

Well the details are mostly already ruined on the fuselage. I sanded it So much cud I couldn't get the putty right. So there lots of primer layers and chrome layers .I'll see what I'm gonna do


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## Justine (Mar 10, 2018)

I just sanded a bit and striped it with paint thinner. Now I'm just going to lightly sand all of it and fix more gaps and stuff with the right putty this time. I think it's gonna work out well .I'm gonna paint it as you suggested before. Btw. I semi cracked my wing fire I'm rushing to much and not paying attention to what I'm doing .I'll have to putty that As well. Thx again for your help


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## Wurger (Mar 11, 2018)

Sorry for the belated answer but I couldn't be on line yesterday. To answer your questions..



> Also .Should I use any thinner at all while I sand?



IMHO no you shouldn't. Just wash up the model with a warm water and dish liquid. It should be enough to remove all the dust after sanding.



> Should I paint the cawlings grey as well because they have grey on the top edges?



Yes if there are the grey painted areas seen for the final effect. But you don't need to apply the colour overall just at the areas it has to be.

BTW pictures posted here of the process would be helpful. So if you can please do that.


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## Justine (Mar 11, 2018)

Well I've been up all night. I just stripped all the paint. Filled in allot of defects .Btw, omg Tamiya putty is a dream compared to the type of bondo I got lol. And clumsy me. I guess I was getting tired, my left wing and rear wing came loose .Had to reglue.. So now...I'm gonna do my grey strip and wait a few days till my tape comes in. Here's some pics.. I'll post pic with grey strip in a bit .Thx


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## Justine (Mar 11, 2018)

I also got darker grey


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## Wurger (Mar 11, 2018)

OK Now I can see what it looks like. A tip tough..

I noticed you painted the front of the engine cowlings with the grey following the panel line at them. Most people do it just in the way. But it is a mistake. Let me explain why.. Having painted the engine cowling in the way the next step is to mask it to it jusa to the edge right? So the edge of the masking tape is stuck exactly at the same area where the colour ends. Therefore you have two edges there and while applying the next colour you got the third one. As a result you get a kind of a "sandwich" where the second colour ( eg the chrome ) sprayed over the grey +masking tape becomes a kind of a fastening buckle. See the diagram. Can you see? Then if you try to remove the masking tape you cause not only ungluing of the masking tape but also the edge of the grey paint what is just the peeling off. Usually it causes the effect to the second paint too because the masking tape painted with a colour gets hardened what make the peeling off much easier. And this is the reason for waiting for a paint cured fully for a couple of days






Here is a diagram with the proper way for applying of paints ...






Therefore the grey paint should be applied a little bit farther than the panel line as it is marked here with the yellow. In the way you gets a better adhesion of the grey paint because of larger surface painted and the luck of the fastening bucklet at area of the panel line.


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## Justine (Mar 11, 2018)

Ohhhhhhhhh .I see! Thanks!


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## Wurger (Mar 11, 2018)

Sorry I have omitted the diagram with the proper applying... I attached it to the post above now. . The difference is seen now better . I hope.


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## Wurger (Mar 11, 2018)

Just a question... is there the blue grey paint on the wing tops still not removed or you had to leave it there becuase it was quite difficult to get rid off? Is that the primer?


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## Wurger (Mar 11, 2018)

Also I would like to ask you about your workbench. What is the pleace where you try to paint your model? Is that a garage, a basement or attic?


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## Wurger (Mar 11, 2018)

And one more .. what is the kind of the Tamiya putty you got? Is that in a tube or in a jar? A picture would be nice.


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## Justine (Mar 11, 2018)

Justine said:


> Ohhhhhhhhh .I see! Thanks!


Cool thanks. Ok just did my strip. Going to bed. Lol .Here's pic


Wurger said:


> Also I would like to ask you about your workbench. What is the pleace where you try to paint your model? Is that a garage, a basement or attic?



LoL .I had this feeling you where gonna ask me that.. Umm far corner of my bedroom. No garage, attic and basement are full of junk .I'll probably clean the attic out and go up there .I don't have much room lol


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## fubar57 (Mar 11, 2018)

Good stuff guys. You'll make a master modeller out of the young lady soon Wojtek. I won't add anything....too many cooks....confusion....that sort of thing but one thing I would advice is to ask or show what you are about to do before committing just to avoid problems. These guys can walk you through anything

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## Wurger (Mar 11, 2018)

OK. I have asked about the workbench because being lactaed at these mentioned areas of a home are full of the dust what isn't a good for spraying. Anyway I would like to ask you for some of cleaning around the workbench before you start spraying. It is enough to do dusting with a wet cloth.


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## Justine (Mar 11, 2018)

Everyone has been absolutely wonderful. I have a long way to go to become an expert. But I know you guys will get me there. This inspired me so much doing these models. Im going to an air show this summer. I wanna see the 2nd only operational b29 DOC " very inspirational story on YouTube about that plane


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## Wurger (Mar 11, 2018)

What about the two other questions..



Wurger said:


> Just a question... is there the blue grey paint on the wing tops still not removed or you had to leave it there becuase it was quite difficult to get rid off? Is that the primer?





Wurger said:


> And one more .. what is the kind of the Tamiya putty you got? Is that in a tube or in a jar? A picture would be nice.


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## Justine (Mar 11, 2018)

Yea I need to clean! I did wash the plane b4 spraying the first time but there was still dust and allot of damn hair . Probably from cats! I'll know better this time thx


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## Justine (Mar 11, 2018)

Wurger said:


> Just a question... is there the blue grey paint on the wing tops still not removed or you had to leave it there becuase it was quite difficult to get rid off? Is that the primer?



No it's sanded down to the primer


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## Wurger (Mar 11, 2018)

OK. . Heve you sanded the areas at the wing roots where you used the putty?


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## Justine (Mar 11, 2018)

Wurger said:


> Just a question... is there the blue grey paint on the wing tops still not removed or you had to leave it there becuase it was quite difficult to get rid off? Is that the primer?



Oops sorry made mistake. Yea still grey Paint on there yet .To hard to remove. Sanded the hell out a it . Its repainted now


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## Justine (Mar 11, 2018)

Yea .I don't know if I'm doing this right with putty .I got Tanya in tube. Goes on nice using qtip but it comes off easily when I sand so I sand lightly .But had to do a few coats of it .In not sure if that's how ya do it


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## Wurger (Mar 11, 2018)

OK. It seems you you did fine with the putty. OK. Please post a pic of the putty tube with its label . I need to check on something. 

Here my other questions and a comment . The answer to the question about the putty you may omit.


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## Wurger (Mar 11, 2018)

Justine said:


> Oops sorry made mistake. Yea still grey Paint on there yet .To hard to remove. Sanded the hell out a it . Its repainted now




OK. But it wasn't the primer you used earlier right?


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## Justine (Mar 11, 2018)

Tamya putty


Wurger said:


> OK. It seems you you did fine with the putty. OK. Please post a pic of the putty tube with its label . I need to check on something.
> 
> Here my other questions and a comment . The answer to the question about the putty you may omit.
> 
> View attachment 485618


 I did post a pic of the putty tube. The squares in top or going to be fusalodge color .As far as sanding its not done yet. I'm still working on it. Rear wing needed to be glued on again. Waiting for that to dry .Yea there's still mistakes but I learned a ton of stuff and had fun .I'm going to do another b29 and I will do it the right way with right tools. Thank you


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## Justine (Mar 11, 2018)

Wurger said:


> OK. But it wasn't the primer you used earlier right?


I did primer The entire plane originaly



Justine said:


> I did primer The entire plane originaly


Omg oops I said that wrong .No it wasn't primer


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## Wurger (Mar 11, 2018)

OK. So the paint should be the primer. because of its very nice adhesion. But you have already applied the dark grey colour at the wing tops. That's a pity. When you asked me about the dark grey paint I was sure you was talking about the engine cowling only. Sorry my mistake.


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## Justine (Mar 11, 2018)

Its alright. I now know know better for bedtime .Thank u


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## Wurger (Mar 11, 2018)

Well.. sleep well . I should be on line all day long today. Tomorrow I'm going to be a little bit busy in the morning and afternoon but later I should be on line too.

OK. What is your local time at the moment?


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## Wurger (Mar 11, 2018)

Also please tell me if the dark grey colour is the final coat for the engine cowlings and the wing tops? I mean the paint seen in these two pics below...


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## Justine (Mar 17, 2018)

Wurger said:


> Well.. sleep well . I should be on line all day long today. Tomorrow I'm going to be a little bit busy in the morning and afternoon but later I should be on line too.
> 
> OK. What is your local time at the moment?


Well. I was about ready to put final paint on .And I took one last look at anola gay in museum .Well the antennas were in wrong place. So went to fix those and also seen the squares I made on the top were wrong as well so...now. Here we go again with sanding .Then..as I was doing that my right rear wing had cracks .Then came off all together. Then I noticed around the canopy I realized I could do a bit better putty job around it So as I was touching that up it came loose .Omg I'm never gonna get this done lol .


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## fubar57 (Mar 17, 2018)

Hello Justine, so sorry to see things going sideways here. I'm not sure why you chose to start modelling with the largest 1/48 kit there is (Italeri C-130 may be bigger) other than the fact that you like the Enola Gay but might I suggest you cut your teeth with something smaller just to get used to everything. These Tamiya kits almost build themselves and you could probably buy all three for less than one B-29 kit.











​
​


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## Justine (Mar 17, 2018)

Oh I know but I'm have so much fun though. I learned ALOT. I really only had trouble because I never researched and had all the wrong tools. Next plane is gonna be better .Will be doing the p51 .And the ones you showed me. Thx

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## Wurger (Mar 17, 2018)

Justine said:


> Well. I was about ready to put final paint on .And I took one last look at anola gay in museum .Well the antennas were in wrong place. So went to fix those and also seen the squares I made on the top were wrong as well so...now. Here we go again with sanding .Then..as I was doing that my right rear wing had cracks .Then came off all together. Then I noticed around the canopy I realized I could do a bit better putty job around it So as I was touching that up it came loose .Omg I'm never gonna get this done lol .



Unfortunately the pic you posted is too blurry. I can't see anything in there. The model can be done soon. But you don't need to rush. These antennas should be attached at the end of the build. If you want to attach them to the correct places you need to wait until the model is painted. Also the squares.. you don't need to mask the plastic there. You may apply them over the dark grey paint later Why do the same work twice?
That's a pity you disappeared from online for some time. But I know the reason for is the time, However the chat is very important as much as pics of good quality posted here. If you want us to help we have to see what is done like.

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## Justine (Mar 17, 2018)

Btw. My dad got me the 1/48 b17 for Xmas that's how I started on the big planes . I didn't post for some time because I painted the grey strip I wanted it to cure and plus I had surgery. I just got back to it now. Here's another pics. I'm about to put the final cost of paint and it's gonna sit for few days .The right inner engine is melted. I think I told you that in another post .I ordered a new one. I put it on the plane for now. Also ordered a new canopy because I think I can do better .Its going to be far from perfect if course but the objective is is to learn and have fun .I got a b17 here yet and I can't wait to show you how far I come and the improvements I've made.


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## Wurger (Mar 17, 2018)

A correction of almost done model isn't an easy thing. According to Murphy's rules for a modelling it is easier to start everything from beginning. However your B-29 doesn't look bad. Why the right engine was melted?


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## fubar57 (Mar 17, 2018)

Hope the healing goes well. Looking forward to the B-17. I've got an F model in the stash as well as a B-24D, B-24J, B-29, AC-130 and several twin engine jobbies. The F and the B-24s will eventually become assembly ships


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## Justine (Mar 17, 2018)

Wurger said:


> A correction of almost done model isn't an easy thing. According to Murphy's rules for a modelling it is easier to start everything from beginning. However your B-29 doesn't look bad. Why the right engine was melted?


Well I was impatient and painted it. Out it in front of my heater to dry quicker .Well I had it to close and it melted lol.


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## Wurger (Mar 17, 2018)

I see. 

Have you sanded the putty at the wing and stabiliser roots?


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## Justine (Mar 17, 2018)

No not yet


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## Wurger (Mar 17, 2018)

So your model isn't ready to paint. You can't apply the colours untiil all works on the model surfaces are finished.

Also you have attached the engine cowlings but I'm afraid you didn't need to do that. It would be easier to paint these cowlings separately.


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## Justine (Mar 17, 2018)

I know .I'm still working on that part. It broke off last night. Will be painting later today


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## Wurger (Mar 17, 2018)

I see.


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## Wurger (Mar 17, 2018)

BTW.. could you post pics of the cockpit canopy?


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## Kaibutsu (Mar 17, 2018)

Hi Justine,

I've been following your post, on the B-29, and I just have to say; You're doing one hell of a good job!

Keep on going... I can't wait to see it when you're done.


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## Crimea_River (Mar 18, 2018)

I agree and am glad you're having fun doing this, though it sounds more like frustration at times. Keep it up! Great coaching form the master as well.


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## Justine (Mar 21, 2018)

Wurger said:


> BTW.. could you post pics of the cockpit canopy?


It's covered yet. Just put the final coat of paint on .But gotta redo the strip along the wings .I'm going back to lighter grey


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## Wurger (Mar 21, 2018)

Please wait. Which light grey paint are you going to use ? What about the dark grey paint you have already applied?


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## Justine (Mar 21, 2018)

Final cost of paint. Need to redo strip across the wings. Color to dark. Going back to a ghost grey like I had before. I ordered new canopy. As I tried to fill in the gaps around it. It came loose a few times . I got pissed off at it and figured I'll let it go untill new one comes in .Thank you all for your help


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## Justine (Mar 21, 2018)

Wurger said:


> Please wait. Which light grey paint are you going to use ? What about the dark grey paint you have already applied?



I don't like the dark it should be lighter because that's how the original plane looks .At first I thought the light grey I used was to light. So I sanded it off and used darker grey. So Idk. I think I should go back to the light


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## Wurger (Mar 21, 2018)

Oh I see now. Was the light grey paint that one the was so difficult to remove with sanding?


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## Justine (Mar 21, 2018)

Yea. If you look at the anola gay in the museum you will see what I mean. The light grey I have is to light . That's why I got the dark. But it's just to dark after I looked at it for awhile . I let this plane dry a week and I still can't touch it without getting fingerprints on it .I know I have the paint on to thick .But I only did that because I really don't have correct paint and as I was spraying it was like orange peak and looked terrible . I know how to spray correctly so I don't know why it was doing this . I got a new can of paint which was suppose to be the same as the other paint I first put on. I did not have this problem the first time I painted. Anyway I had to get closer and put it on thicker .It looks nice actually to me but I know it's not right . I have to have gloves on to touch this plane. But I'm done with it now pretty much .Been at it 2 months. I still gotta replace engine and canopy but that won't be for awhile. I am going to do B29 Bockscar with this same kit and it's going to be totally different and 101% better


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## Justine (Mar 21, 2018)

Do you think it looks ok though?


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## Wurger (Mar 21, 2018)

Yep that's the trouble with the kind of paints. Their range isn't as great as those dedicated for modelling eg. ModelMaster/Testors etc... However it seems that the light greay paint can be use both as the primer and the main colour. Using the paint in the way you would get a nice primered surface for the chrome/silver paint and you didn't have to apply the grey at the wing and the fuselage tops twice.
Also a tip fo the future.. you don't need to attach all parts/pieces to a model before painting. A couple of them can be painted separately. Eg.. the cockpt conopy, the engine cowlings or antennas. It will allow you to operate them easier and avoid their getting damaged.

And yes she looks quite nice. It is not easy to get something corrected if fixing is needed.


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## Justine (Mar 21, 2018)

Thank you .Yes I mounted the crowlings thinking I was done painting them. But damn I was wrong now I gotta tape them while on the plane .I put the antennas on before painting because I'm clumsy with glue yet. I'm to shack I didn't want to get the glue all over the final paint. But thank you for your help and responding to me .I will post pic when I'm done with strip. I'm working on it now . With gloves. Grrrr


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## Crimea_River (Mar 21, 2018)

It's looking quite nice in the pics. Keep up the good work.


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## Wurger (Mar 21, 2018)

Justine said:


> Thank you .Yes I mounted the crowlings thinking I was done painting them. But damn I was wrong now I gotta tape them while on the plane .I put the antennas on before painting because I'm clumsy with glue yet. I'm to shack I didn't want to get the glue all over the final paint. But thank you for your help and responding to me .I will post pic when I'm done with strip. I'm working on it now . With gloves. Grrrr



To avoid the getting the glue all over the final paint a needle has to be used. You have to spill a little bit of the glue onto a piece of cardboard ot an aluminium foil and then pick a very small drop with the needle. The small drop can be applied into the hole ( slot ) for the antanna nast for instance. Another way is to use a pair of tweezers to keep the antenna mast. The part of the antenna that has to be put into the slot should be dipped in the drop of glue. Certainly the antenna mast has to be painted before gluing. Here is a nose wheel leg for my cardboard B-24. It is made of paper soaked with the Superglue and then painted with the aluminium rostoleum like paint. To attach the part to the model it is enough to apply some of glue at the top of the leg where the wire is protruding and put it it its slot.

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## Wurger (Mar 21, 2018)

And here engines and props. Please notice that all these parts wait for the final attaching and had been painted before.


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## fubar57 (Mar 21, 2018)

Paint work looks nice


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## Justine (Mar 21, 2018)

Ahh I see! Ok I will keep that in mind and do that thank you . Well. I was taping around to do the final paint on my strip .Well the tape was pulling the paint up .I'm like damn! So I figure I'll do I quick spray just on the small area . and wait another week Well ended up the mist fell over the other parts of plane. I should of covered the whole thing. Ended up repainting over other areas now. This is absolutely ridiculous ! Lol .Ok. I'm putting it aside for a long while .I'll go back to it when the parts come in. On to the next . Btw I think allot of this is me being fusterated, impatience , of course lack of knowladge. I gotta stop. Let it go and start something different and take my time and stop when I find myself rushing or getting tired etc. Anyway I'll probably have more questions on my next plane .I'll start a new thread .Thank you sooo much for your time and for everyone else that replied to my post.


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## fubar57 (Mar 21, 2018)

Sorry to hear about that Justine. I know the frustration well. I have over 30 kits in various states of build that I chose to put back in the box instead of taking a 5lb sledge hammer to them. You made a good call. Looking forward to your next choice.


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## mikewint (Mar 21, 2018)

Tamiya Extra Thin Cement has a very nice and fine "brush" cap that is perfect for such "insert in hole" parts. Just carefully put the fine brush end in the hole or use the brush to "paint" the insert tab then put in the hole. The "glue" is actually one of the plastic solvents so it "melts" the plastic. It also has a high vapor pressure and will evaporate quickly and the parts become sticky quickly so no long holding waiting for CA-types to cure. I use it on all small parts

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## Justine (Mar 21, 2018)

Ok. You guys either are gonna laugh or say to he'll with me I'll never learn lol. I noticed some small runs when I did a check on it. I threw it in the tub !!!! Starting over. ....................................


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## Wurger (Mar 21, 2018)

Nobody is gonna laugh.. just patience and patience once again. Without that modelling isn't possible. And you came here to get some of help didn't you ? Sometimes it is needed to make four or even five the same parts to get one of them made correct. Here is a mini stuff for 1/48 scale Kingfisher. Each of them was made three or four times before I could achieve a decent appearance.















And here for 1/72 scale F-16 ... these airbrakes with the inner structure have been made four times each. And I'm still not satisfied. Gona to start them again.


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## Justine (Mar 28, 2018)

Hay I'm soooooooooo fusterated now. I got the Tamya tape . I put a light coat of paint on the wings .I let it dry almost a week . Its still ripping up the paint .Here look.


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## fubar57 (Mar 29, 2018)

Did you remove some of the tackiness from the tape first? Even though it is designed for modellers it is still too tacky. For small thin pieces I'll press it between my fingers a few times, larger pieces I'll press it against my palm a few times. This takes some practice to get the feel. When you apply the tape to the model don't press down too hard, just enough to seat the tape. If the tape runs across panel lines I'll use a round toothpick to press the tape into the grooves. Once I'm happy with my taping I'll run a thin bead of clear flat along the edge of the tape to seal it and prevent the paint from bleeding under. Wait an hour or so and then start painting. Having said that, I will still occasionally lift some paint with the tape or get bleed under but this is usually when I rush the job


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## Airframes (Mar 29, 2018)

Geo has explained it well, but I'll just add this - to remove the tack from the tape, the easiest and most sure method is to cut the length you require, and then pull it lightly between finger and thumb two to three times. This removes the 'top layer' of tack evenly along the length of the tape.
When removing the tape, lift a corner or edge, and then gently pull the tape away along its length, keeping the 'free' end at around 45 degrees.


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## Justine (Mar 29, 2018)

Yes I ran the tape accross my farhead and did not press down .The tape had hardly any stickiness . It actually was coming off. I don't get it


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## mikewint (Mar 29, 2018)

Remove the masking tape immediately after painting so that there's no time for the skin to form over the join between the tape and the painted surface. You don't have to wait for the paint to dry. If the paint has already dried, use a craft knife to carefully cut it along the edge of the tape.


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## Justine (Mar 29, 2018)

I did do that. Need tape with even less stickiness . I don't know anymore


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## fubar57 (Mar 29, 2018)

Which brand of paint did you use and did you prime? Also oil from you fingers can prevent paint from sticking to the model so some will wash and rinse the model before painting. Please have patience, we will get you through this. We've all been there at the start


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## Crimea_River (Mar 29, 2018)

Geo has it. If you have removed the tackiness of the Tamiya tape and are still pulling up paint then the issue is the bond between the paint and the surface underneath. Even the best modellers on this site have done it and not long ago! Pull up the rest of the tape carefully. Any paint that comes off will need to be repaired by sanding the area up to where you have secure paint, then clean the area with water and a bit of dish soap, rinse and let fully dry before repainting. You can try repainting over the roughened surface or, better yet, use a lacquer-based primer first and then repaint.

Fun isn't it!?!?!


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## Justine (Mar 30, 2018)

Yea yea lotta fun! LoL. Ok well to just recap quick. This plane was stripped of paint at least 4x mainly because of tape pulling up paint or paint Just looking like crap...I know at first when I had the problem was I used the wrong tape and paint was on way to thick. I used rustolium chrome paint...I know I know I should of used differently but my home is in foreclosure because i can't work anymore and I have hardly any income right now. But this damn paint no matter how hard I try...I get this orange peel effect and looks like carp so I end up putting the can closer to the plane to get it on thicker to avoid that look. Well doing that obviously caused some runs and had to restrip it again. I got this silver paint awhile back for my upcoming b17...but the damn stuff is like sparkely lol.. I'm like..wtf? Lol .So gotta return that. So after my last time of throwing it in the tub and pouring 100000's galons of paint thinner, I made sure I sprayed a very light coat across the wings since that's where I have to tape to make my stripe. Oh and the first time the paint pulled up i used primer...But this last time I didn't. So, I let it dry for exactly one week. Then I got my Tamya tape and ran it across my forehead and cheeks, lol before applying. My son was watching me while I did this and he was like..."mommy? Ummmm are you alright?," lol the look on his face was priceless. Anyway. I made sure I didn't push down to hard but only at the edge part so the paint wont leak in. The tape really had hardly any adhesive. Just barely enough to stick. So I sprayed my grey and immediately pulled up the tape...as you can see it stuck to the tape again.. I SWORE this was the last time I was stripping and repainting this plane. I don't know what else to do at this point except to wait and get the correct paint. But that means stripping it a 5th time . there is absolutely no details left on this plane from so much sanding . I've worked sooooooo hard on this plane so far I can't bare to give up. So I'll be buying 2 gallons of paint thinner this time lol and I found a modeler on ebay....he has a cool store with tons of paint at good prices So I'll buy off him. But I don't know if he has chrome. If I can't find chrome I'll have to settle for silver( not the pretty sparkling kind either lol)..damn I so wanna finish at this point..I wanna see how my canopy turned out but gotta wait till done painting obviously and I'm not redoing the canopy grrrrrr. Looking at the plane now...*sighs* yes it has to get stripped again also because it's on so thick ya can't really touch it without getting fingerprints on it and I still have landing gears and Bombay doors to do. So guys...tell me what to do again?? My head is spinning lol

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## Justine (Mar 30, 2018)

Oh and yes I washed the plane with hot water and soap always before painting. One time I forgot and there was cat fur all over it So I never forgot again lol. I so can't wait to get airbrushes and YOU guys gotta teach me how to use it  but for real...this is all really good so when I do the b29 bockscar I'll have allllllllllll this knowledge.


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## Crimea_River (Mar 30, 2018)

Rather than buying 2 gallons of thinner, why don't you buy proper model paint?


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## Justine (Mar 30, 2018)

Huuuu what!!! You really just asked me that? After I just explained why I had to strip my plane in the same post??? Or are you mocking me? Btw I was over exaderaiting on purpose maybe to make someone laugh about the 2 gallons of thinner. So I guess not . Maybe I'm waitsting my time here


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## Crimea_River (Mar 30, 2018)

No I'm not mocking you, just trying to help. I guess I missed your sarcasm. My point is that sometimes it's better to stop throwing good money after bad and spend your money on the right thing.

Good luck.


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## mikewint (Mar 30, 2018)

Orange peel can have a number of causes. Ambient temperature - colder temps encourage the formation of orange peel. Spray in a warm room 75F or so
Thick Paint - either the paint itself is too thick or you are spraying too heavy a coat. Thin your paint, about like the viscosity of milk.
Spray a thin, light coat. Allow to dry. Pant another thin, light coat. Allow to dry. Repeat as many times as necessary.
The only other suggestion I can make is to use a LACQUER model paint in a rattle can. The hot solvents used in lacquer paints actually react with the plastic a bit almost acting like a glue. Again THIN - LIGHT coats overlapping about 1/3 or so of the previous coat and keep your distance 8 inches at least. Lacquers also cure quickly so the chances of a thick uncured layer are minimal.
Lastly the hot solvents used in lacquers need plenty of ventilation and wear a surgical mask when you spray


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## Wurger (Mar 30, 2018)

Hi Justine..

Sorry for my absence but my hospital stay had to be prolonged. Unfortunately... But I got back home today and we can try to get your model painted. All advices here are great and none of these guys here is going to make fun of you and your work. They just try to help you. However the problem is the using of different kind of paints. These rostoleum paints aren't recommended for modelling. Therefore it might be difficult to work with them. Judging by the pic you posted the paint doesn't peel off as it happens to many other kinds of paints used by modellers. The trouble is the paint that seems to be not cured fully. It happens to the such paints for some reason often . Believe me I have a couple of lifeboats for a ship model I painted with Humbrol enamels and then applied a clear gloss varnish. For the purpose I used a can of similar one to the rostoleum paints in a spray . I did that about ten years ago. And you know what, these are stil tacky , even today Just the gloss varnish was either old or storaged incorrectly. That happens to these dedicated colours for modelling too.Therefore I don't think it is a "fault" of the Tamiya masking tape. If you want you may do an experiment. Take a fresh piece of the Tamiya tape and stick it to the area painted grey at the wing top, in the same way you did that to the silver one. Then try to unstick it. Just wonder if the dark grey paint can peel off like the silver one . could you check that?
But get back to your model. If you are still going to get the model painted we may try to do it together. But it has to be done slowly and gradually. Unfortunately I can't be there to keep my eye on you working and help with painting directly. So it is very important to chat before the next step can be done.I may ask you about many things if the info is needed for making all clear, And the same at your end just ask. If you agree I'm at your disposal.


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## Justine (Mar 30, 2018)

Crimea_River said:


> No I'm not mocking you, just trying to help. I guess I missed your sarcasm. My point is that sometimes it's better to stop throwing good money after bad and spend your money on the right thing.
> 
> Good luck.


I apologize for my nastiness before. I never talk to people like that I'm sorry. I've been sick and no sleep..and just spent hours on stupid Facebook ranting about my pro gun beliefs and I was criticized for it and even banned. Anyway sorry . If I was smart I'd throw it away


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## Justine (Mar 30, 2018)

mikewint said:


> Orange peel can have a number of causes. Ambient temperature - colder temps encourage the formation of orange peel. Spray in a warm room 75F or so
> Thick Paint - either the paint itself is too thick or you are spraying too heavy a coat. Thin your paint, about like the viscosity of milk.
> Spray a thin, light coat. Allow to dry. Pant another thin, light coat. Allow to dry. Repeat as many times as necessary.
> The only other suggestion I can make is to use a LACQUER model paint in a rattle can. The hot solvents used in lacquer paints actually react with the plastic a bit almost acting like a glue. Again THIN - LIGHT coats overlapping about 1/3 or so of the previous coat and keep your distance 8 inches at least. Lacquers also cure quickly so the chances of a thick uncured layer are minimal.
> Lastly the hot solvents used in lacquers need plenty of ventilation and wear a surgical mask when you spray


Thank you so much! that's a huge help .I appreciate it. Happy Easter


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## Crimea_River (Mar 30, 2018)

Justine said:


> I apologize for my nastiness before. I never talk to people like that I'm sorry. I've been sick and no sleep..and just spent hours on stupid Facebook ranting about my pro gun beliefs and I was criticized for it and even banned. Anyway sorry . If I was smart I'd throw it away



No problem. We all have our days. I see doctor Wojtek is back to help. It's better to benefit from his knowledge and patience than get multiple responses so I will bow out and stay on the side lines. I really hope this project works out for you.


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## Justine (Mar 30, 2018)

Wurger said:


> Hi Justine..
> 
> Sorry for my absence but my hospital stay had to be prolonged. Unfortunately... But I got back home today and we can try to get your model painted. All advices here are great and none of these guys here is going to make fun of you and your work. They just try to help you. However the problem is the using of different kind of paints. These rostoleum paints aren't recommended for modelling. Therefore it might be difficult to work with them. Judging by the pic you posted the paint doesn't peel off as it happens to many other kinds of paints used by modellers. The trouble is the paint that seems to be not cured fully. It happens to the such paints for some reason often . Believe me I have a couple of lifeboats for a ship model I painted with Humbrol enamels and then applied a clear gloss varnish. For the purpose I used a can of similar one to the rostoleum paints in a spray . I did that about ten years ago. And you know what, these are stil tacky , even today Just the gloss varnish was either old or storaged incorrectly. That happens to these dedicated colours for modelling too.Therefore I don't think it is a "fault" of the Tamiya masking tape. If you want you may do an experiment. Take a fresh piece of the Tamiya tape and stick it to the area painted grey at the wing top, in the same way you did that to the silver one. Then try to unstick it. Just wonder if the dark grey paint can peel off like the silver one . could you check that?
> But get back to your model. If you are still going to get the model painted we may try to do it together. But it has to be done slowly and gradually. Unfortunately I can't be there to keep my eye on you working and help with painting directly. So it is very important to chat before the next step can be done.I may ask you about many things if the info is needed for making all clear, And the same at your end just ask. If you agree I'm at your disposal.


Thank you my dear wurger. I hope you are well. I just got out of hospital as well . I've been really sick and I just apologized to the other guy for being irritable and out right nasty to him. I won't be working on the plane for about a week. I need the right paint . Before I buy I will ask you and anyone else if what I'm about to buy is ok.
I'll have to buy more thinner as well. So let me know if I need anything else and I won't start unroll I talk to you.
Thank you so much and ALSO to everyone here who has been helping me so much
Have a nice Easter


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## Justine (Mar 30, 2018)

Justine said:


> Thank you so much! that's a huge help .I appreciate it. Happy Easter


Also feel free to join in when Wurger walks me through my neverending b29 .


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## Wurger (Mar 31, 2018)

Happy Easter to you and yours !  I hope you are fine now and the hospital staying helped with getting better. 

Glad you decided to keep the work up. If you still want to use the rustoilum paints you may use the B-29 as the object for training. There is nothing to lose. If you do, please post a couple of pics to show me how it looks like now. I can premediate the steps for working on the model. The more good quality of images is the better work can be done. Also I would like to see which rustoilum paints you are going to use. Of course post shots of these cans to present me them.


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## Justine (Mar 31, 2018)

Thanks . I'll send you pics then but yea as of now This is just a learning project now . Being that takes pressure off of me as well .When I'm ready I'll give you a shout and send you everything I got as far as tools, supplies and what I'm about to purchase .


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## fubar57 (Mar 31, 2018)




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## mikewint (Mar 31, 2018)

Not to undercut Wojtek in any way but stick with paint specifically designed for plastic models rather than Rustoleum. The Rustoleum spray itself is designed with a heavy, wide fan spray designed for large areas. IMHO it is not suitable for a small plastic model.
Try a Tamiya rattle can LACQUER paint either from their TS line like TS30 SILVER LEAF or TS83 METALLIC SILVER. There is also an AS line designed for model aircraft, AS12 is BARE METAL SILVER.
After all that your model has been through the integrity of the very plastic is probamatical.


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## at6 (Mar 31, 2018)

Wurger said:


> To avoid the getting the glue all over the final paint a needle has to be used. You have to spill a little bit of the glue onto a piece of cardboard ot an aluminium foil and then pick a very small drop with the needle. The small drop can be applied into the hole ( slot ) for the antanna nast for instance. Another way is to use a pair of tweezers to keep the antenna mast. The part of the antenna that has to be put into the slot should be dipped in the drop of glue. Certainly the antenna mast has to be painted before gluing. Here is a nose wheel leg for my cardboard B-24. It is made of paper soaked with the Superglue and then painted with the aluminium rostoleum like paint. To attach the part to the model it is enough to apply some of glue at the top of the leg where the wire is protruding and put it it its slot.
> 
> View attachment 486769
> View attachment 486770
> ...


You sir are a master craftsman with paper.

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## at6 (Mar 31, 2018)

Justine said:


> I apologize for my nastiness before. I never talk to people like that I'm sorry. I've been sick and no sleep..and just spent hours on stupid Facebook ranting about my pro gun beliefs and I was criticized for it and even banned. Anyway sorry . If I was smart I'd throw it away


Do not throw it away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Keep at it and consider it a learning experience. That way if you ever get another one, you'll know what not to do. Never let frustration cause a rash decision.


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## Wurger (Mar 31, 2018)

Justine said:


> Thanks . I'll send you pics then but yea as of now This is just a learning project now . Being that takes pressure off of me as well .When I'm ready I'll give you a shout and send you everything I got as far as tools, supplies and what I'm about to purchase .



OK.


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## Justine (Apr 16, 2018)

mikewint said:


> Not to undercut Wojtek in any way but stick with paint specifically designed for plastic models rather than Rustoleum. The Rustoleum spray itself is designed with a heavy, wide fan spray designed for large areas. IMHO it is not suitable for a small plastic model.
> Try a Tamiya rattle can LACQUER paint either from their TS line like TS30 SILVER LEAF or TS83 METALLIC SILVER. There is also an AS line designed for model aircraft, AS12 is BARE METAL SILVER.
> After all that your model has been through the integrity of the very plastic is probamatical.


Thank you. I've had been told so Maney suggestions on paint But since I had money issues I've tried to make the wrong paint work. I found a nice guy on ebay who has a store and is loaded with all the kind of paint for modeling. He has testors chrome enamal spray but I also seen the lacquer chrome and I rememberd you and others said lacquer .I want the chrome for the b29 and silver for b17. I'm about to buy but just wanted to check in quick before I do. Thx


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## Wurger (Apr 16, 2018)

Hi Justine,

Of course you may stay with the rustoilum paints. No problem I would say. That's your choice. I think it is possible to get a decent final effect using them. But it has to be obtained in a little bit different way from the one used with the dedicated paints. However I'm not sure if the Chrome is a good choice because I haven't seen any war-time B-29 shining in the way. Generally the paint should be the aluminium/silver colour of a grey tone. In other words the paint should be semi-gloss or semi-matt if you prefere.


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## Justine (Apr 16, 2018)

Well I had to strip the plane 4x because I can't seem to get a nice layer without the orange peal look. I've tried spraying in so Maney different ways . I just don't like it. On my first try I did get testors silver and that looked worse. I will not try the chrome anymore. I'll do the aluminum silver like . I guess.. I really need to get the correct paint specifically for models and I HAVE to make it work. So let's have this b29 as a test plane as you suggested before. I'll get the paint and I'll post pictures and I'll walk through this step by step. I don't think my b29 has much plastic left on it lol. tonight I guess I'll strip it again. I just got 2 bottles of paint thinner lol


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## Justine (Apr 16, 2018)

Oh should I just get the Tamya silver.


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## Wurger (Apr 16, 2018)

OK. But please don't rush. If you make a step please stop and come here to show the effect and discuss the next one. The stripping of the test B-29 is a good idea. Just try to make that gently in order to not much of plastic sand down. Also please show me what paints you are going to use. Pics are welcome of course. This will be the first step OK?


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## Justine (Apr 16, 2018)

Oki doki


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## Wurger (Apr 16, 2018)

Justine said:


> Oh should I just get the Tamya silver.



If you can afford that you may buy the paint. But it is not needed I would say.

Also you tape to quick too.  Please slow down.


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## Wurger (Apr 16, 2018)

OK. Three questions..

How often can you be on-line ?
What kind of a paint is the light grey one seen in your pic?
Is the paint one of these colours used and seen on the real plane and you are going to apply too?


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## Justine (Apr 19, 2018)

Wurger said:


> If you can afford that you may buy the paint. But it is not needed I would say.
> 
> Also you tape to quick too.  Please slow down.


Well just got the tamya paint in. I didn't strip the plane yet .Maybe this weekend .But I did a little test with this paint and it goes on like its water. I shook it for 3 min and its at room temperature. I don't understand what's going on . It just bubbles up . Its really bad . This is starting to get overwhelming frustrating now.


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## parsifal (Apr 20, 2018)

can you take a photo of the paint that is 'bubbling". I assume it is forming bubbles in the jar.

Tamiya acrylics are a water based paint, though you are better off using acrylic thinners to get it to the correct consistency. start with a 50/50 mix , spray on in thin coats, onto a test card for a start. Airbrush should be at least 12" away from the surface. surface should be clean and dry before applying. If you have a pressure regulator make sure the pressure does not go much over 20 PSI . Model acrylics should be touch dry in less than 30 mins, able to apply another coat after an hour or so. generally needs a hard coat because it marks easily. .

For polished metal finishes there are some specialised paint types that are similar to Tamiya paints. would you believe ive forgotten the name, but can get it if you need it . Its very good but shows up every imperfection and is soft (ie easily marked until a hard coat is applied).

If the bubbling is occurring on the kit, there is probably some chemical residue of some sort on the model. Have you washed the model itself?


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## Wurger (Apr 20, 2018)

Justine said:


> Well just got the tamya paint in. I didn't strip the plane yet .Maybe this weekend .But I did a little test with this paint and it goes on like its water. I shook it for 3 min and its at room temperature. I don't understand what's going on . It just bubbles up . Its really bad . This is starting to get overwhelming frustrating now.



From what distance did you spray the Tamiya paint?


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## Justine (Apr 20, 2018)

Wurger said:


> From what distance did you spray the Tamiya paint?


I varied the distance to see if it made a difference and it don't . . My very first try around Christmas time I used testors spray can and it did the same thing. Ill post a picture later tonight or tomorrow.


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2018)

But what is the distance... 1 inch or 2 inches for instance?


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

I tried multiple distances ranging from 5-10 inches. Know matter what distance it looks horrible. I'm confused . Ill have to strip my plane and ill spray a small surface to show you


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2018)

OK. However please try to spray the paint from the distance 15-25 inches. The trick is that the kind of paints should be applied using the way called " dusting " . It means you need to spary the paint form farther distance that allows to hit the surface alomst without the paint solvent. Here is a couple of shots with painted in the way a cardboard wing for the B-24. Can you see how the paint layer is thin?
BTW.... these small imperfections seen aren't the result of bad applying but of the surface of the wing that was primered with the superglue only.





















Here is enlarged shot of the painted surface...


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

Ahh I see .Ok .I'm going to strip the plane again .I got 2 bottles of paint thinner. Do you have time today to walk me through some of this?


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2018)

Yes I do.


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

I just did another test as you suggested holding the can farther away. Looks better.


Wurger said:


> Yes I do.


Ok I'm going outside to do this


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2018)

That's it. Much better. However if you strip the model please don't apply the silver paint yet. We have to talk about the light grey colour that was very hard to remove.


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

Yea .cant get it off the wings


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2018)

OK. Don't worry. Do you have some of fine sand paper?


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

Yes I do . I can't seem to get paint off other areas as well but ill keep scrubbing. I guess when I'm done ill wash it with soap and water. I got more cracks in it now that I have to puddy


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2018)

Take it easy. I have noticed you dismounted the front parts of the engine nacelles didn't you?


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

Yes :-/ they got grey on them it be easier I guess to strip them off the plane


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

Damn this is hard


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2018)

OK. If it wouldn't be possible to strip off the grey paint fully you may use the fine sand paper to sand the grey painted surface a little bit in order to remove these imperfections only and get it smooth. Below there is a pic I would like to ask you about ... are these two rectangles of the grey paint or it's the plastic under the paint?


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

That's grey paint I can't get off. My plane is falling apart now. My cannapy came off and I got cracks every where .It's I got a ton of work to do again .I'm not sure I can save this plane now. But like we said before. Its a practice plane now ;-(


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2018)

I'm sorry to hear that. Possible the thinner could damage the canopy. Could you post pics?


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

Having trouble with pics. I gotta go inside. One sec


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2018)

OK. Waiting ...


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)




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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

Omg I messed up I sent duplicates . Plane a disaster


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2018)

Not too bad. Too much squeezed right? What kind of the glue was used for sticking ?


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

Testors . Now my wing came off lol. Ok here we go *sighs*


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2018)

Oh ... a cement..so no wonder the seams getting cracked. I always repeat that cement glues aren't the best for polystyrene. Do you have some of superglue?


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

No I don't Have any . I just totally ruined my cannapy now. I ordered one 2 months ago. Never came


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2018)

OK. Please post pics of the ruined canopy. Let me see what damages are there. And stop working on the model now.


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

Its broke. I used elmers glue to cover windows but I couldn't get it off. There was so much paint on it and I got thinner all over it. I should of took it off before I stripped .Its no good I can't put it on .Its all scratched up . I could glue it together and set it on until new one comes in. If it ever comes in. I'm embarrassed about all this. Its crazy


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

I don't even know where to begin right now


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

Gonna sand and repair the broken wing I guess to start off


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2018)

OK. Undobtedly the thinner damaged the glue and the "glass" Such parts have to be attached at the end of model assembling.

And yes for resuming of the work on the model the fixing of the broken wing is a good point. Then put the model away and let the glue get hardened.
In meantime please post pics of the front engine cowlings. I would like to see how these look like now. OK?


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

Gonna take me another month to repair before I can paint


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2018)

How much the wing is damaged? Any pics?


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

There terrible. The nubs for perpellers on 2 of them broke off. I can fix that easily .Remember I got a melted one lol .I ordered one of those to


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

The wing that broke off is the one that the grey paint won't come off so I'm sanding it the grey is all over the place because I was testing that tamya paint on it


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2018)

The grey paint isn't the problem at the moment. Easy now. Please take pics from three directions of one of these engine cowlings. I need to see how it looks like.


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

Ok give me 5 min


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2018)

No problemo.


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

I gotta give it a break I'm tired lol .Ill start again tomorrow. Thanks sooooo much for your help  even though I'm a lost cause ;-\


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2018)

OK. Nice. THX. 

Questions..

1 Is it possible to remove of the engine from the cowling interior?
2 Is the grey paint that one you want to use at the cowlings together with the silver and then at the wing tops?


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

Well I can try to remove the engines but I had trouble with them coming off all the time so there's allot of glue in there

The grey paint on the real plane is at the tips of the cowling and same on the strip on wing tops. I got 2 different color greys .The other one is allot darker I wanted your opinion on which one to use. But both greys are really the wrong shade according to the real plane but I'm done buying paint I got enough lol


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2018)

Are you sure if the grey colour was used for the B-29?


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

Yes if you look at it in the Muslim


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2018)

However the one in the museum doesn't seem to have the grey at the tips of the cowling.

OK. If you want you may use the light grey paint that seems to be of a quite close tinge to the one seen on the museum kite.

BTW please post a pic of the damaged engine cowling.


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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)




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## Justine (Apr 21, 2018)

You can see the tips in the screen shot


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## at6 (Apr 22, 2018)

Justine said:


> I gotta give it a break I'm tired lol .Ill start again tomorrow. Thanks sooooo much for your help  even though I'm a lost cause ;-\
> 
> View attachment 490700
> 
> ...


I wouldn't say that you're a lost cause. Just highly inexperienced at the moment. With each attempt your abilities will improve.


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## Wurger (Apr 22, 2018)

Justine said:


> You can see the tips in the screen shot



I went through a couple of sources for the B-29 and had a look around the net. As I suspected the grey colour at the front engine cowlings is a light trick. It appears that the areas should be of the steel plate tone. Also please notice that the bottom of the parts were of the polished silver tinge but not of the grey. Here pictures.


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## Wurger (Apr 22, 2018)

Also I have checked on the era pics of the bird. None of these I found indicates the grey on the front parts ..
If I were you I would follow the era images rather than the appearance of her at the museum. Additionally I think there wasn't the grey area at the wing tops too. The grey on the wing of the bird exhibited is the post war addition done after here renovation.











And here a color shot .. with the red fin tip.


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## Wurger (Apr 22, 2018)

However the shot below may suggest the grey there...






If you decide to follow the painting scheme of the museum bird , please notice that the grey on the fuselage wasn't of the band type. It gets a little bit over the the rectangle panels there. Also please make a focus on the ailerons that were of the same colour. Well, that's your decision you have to make. Just please let me know.











But.. IMHO the grey looking ares at the wing tops are the light trick too. As memo serves the B-29 was skinned with the corrosion-resistant aluminium plated panels. All areas that weren't covered with the skin type were painted silver. The kind of protection results in getting darker tone in time becuase of the oxidation of the aluminium dust that was the paint ingridient. Here are two shots of B-29s. Both of them present the silver, metalic tone of the painted areas but not as shiny as the rest of the skinning. What makes the idea more possible is that the central part of the wing and the fuselage were made as one solid structure of the plane and seem to be made of different plates in order to get the correct enduring strength. If you look at the first picture of the post you may notice that the plane covering already got some of the matt tone because of the oxidation in time. Therefore the silver painted areas got more of the dark tone there than the entire rest of the bird skin that was made of the more corrosion-resistant aluminium plated panels.


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## Justine (Jun 2, 2018)

Hay I just got back from Reading PA airport to see air show. Was soooo awesome. I wanted to take a ride in the b29 "FI FI " BUT it costs like $1500! Lol. I also wanted to take a tour in the b29 "DOC" BUT the line was a mile long and it was like 100 degrees! I got to see so many cool planes even the b17" Memphis Belle" my mom is in love with the p51 redtail so I got a ton of pics and videos of that we couldn't stay for the entire show it was just to damn hot! Here are some pics I took today. One is with my son, Ricky and I next to DOC. I took a ton of pics of the future planes I want to build so I can make them more accurate. I have not been modeling recently I'm in the middle of moving. But I'll get back to it soon!



























































b.s. mg

Reactions: Like Like:
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## Justine (Jun 2, 2018)

Got some vids to. But can't seem to get it to upload. trying to figure this out


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## Justine (Jun 2, 2018)

Trouble uploading videos. Grrr


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## Donivanp (Jun 3, 2018)

Nice, both B-29's at the same air show, nice!


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