# 174 Sqn Typhoon up-date, 1/32nd scale.



## Airframes (Feb 23, 2010)

This is not intended as a GB entry, but, as it's a 'D-Day' striped Typhoon, and topical, I thought I'd commence this update now, in this section. Hopefully, it might also benefit Daniel (109 Roaming), who is intending to carry out a similar conversion.
This is a conversion from the 1/32nd scale Revell 'car door' Typhoon, which I built back in 1989, and never did get around to finishing properly!
It had always been the intention to mount the 60lb RP's and rails to the model, as 174 Sqn were rocket equipped; however, just as I reached that stage in the build, the only available aftermarket RP's, in white metal, were discontinued! Consequently, as a temporary measure, I mounted the kit-supplied bombs instead.
Having recently purchased a set of resin RP's, and a four-bladed prop, from MDC (Model Design Construction), I can now finally complete the conversion, whilst at the same time correcting and improving a few areas of the model, and giving it a bl**dy good 'spring clean' - afterall, it's been standing gathering dust for twenty years!!
So, a little bit about the model itself, just to set the scene.
The fuselage sides around the cockpit and car doors were 'plated' with plastic card and then filled as required to provide a single 'skin', as per the 'teardrop' Typhoon, eliminating the door openings and a rather irksome, though slight, depression along the fuselage at this area. This depression is very similar to the shape of the 'insert' found on the Hasegawa 1/48th Typhoon kits, and I always wondered if Revell had intended to release a 'teardrop' version at some point which, AFAIK, they never did. (strange they haven't re-released the kit again too - yet.)
The kit-supplied cockpit is actually quite good, with the basic 'tubular' framework included, but this was enhanced by some scratch-building, particularly around the seat and the pilot's armour plate, and the addition of switches, taps, brackets and levers etc.
There is a fair representation of the big Napier engine, with removable cowling panels, but this was hidden by the closed cowlings on my example, and extra detail added around the radiator and oil cooler inlet, and also at the exit vent for this. The landing gear struts and wheel bays received some scratch-built detail and, the final fuselage modification, a 'teardrop' canopy was moulded, and 'temporarily' fitted, the intention being, eventually, to have this posed open.
As this aircraft, in the MN serial range, had the slightly larger Tempest tailplane (horizontal stabiliisor), and a four bladed propellor, I had, at this stage, reached another slight stumbling block, inasmuch that those aftermarket accessories had also been disscontinued! So, slightly disgruntled, the model was completed with the 'standard' tailplane and prop, and then brush painted. The decals are a mixture of kit decals, and a few from the spares box, plus 'Letraset' rub-down letters and numbers for the serial number, whilst the code letters were hand-painted free-hand.
And so it has remained, for a touch over twenty years, until now!
And now, 'The Plan'!
The first job will be to give the model a really good clean, and then review the surafce detail and condition.
If it is possible to alter the tailplane without damaging the rest of the model, then this will be done. If not, the overall difference in dimensions will hardly be noticed - I hope - but the reinforcing 'fishplates' around the tail - unit joint will need to be removed anyway.
Next, the home-moulded canopy will be removed, as will the bombs and pylons, and the undersides of the wing prepared for the rocket launcing rails. Very small holes had already been drilled here, to serve as markers for the attachment points of the rails, which should make life a bit easier. I have yet to decide whether or not to make a new canopy, this time in the open position, but either way, the model will be re-painted in some areas, and some new stencil and serial number decals made and applied, and possibly new code letters, if the hand-painted examples become damaged.
Once all that's done, the very nice MDC rockets and rails will be carefully assembled, painted and fitted, followed by the huge, four bladed prop. The latter will take a little thought, as some modification to the prop shaft (on the model) will be required, in order to utilise the moulded-in shaft of the resin prop hub.
Minor detail will then be attended to, some of which will entail close study of film footage of 174 Sqn aircraft, in order to ascertain, for example, if the landing lamps were faired , a common feature on RP Tiffies, to prevent scorching of the lenses.
Given that all goes to plan, the model should then be a more accurate representation of MN371, XP-A, as it would have looked at Bazenville, France, in July 1944.
The pics below show how the model looks at present, and the MDC resin parts.
Thanks for your interest, and I'll post an up-date soon.


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## Airframes (Mar 30, 2010)

I've finally made a start, and also decided to totally change the identity, and re-paint the model, with new codes and serials, as the original brushe-painted finish looked rather tired and worn after cleaning.
*PIC 1.* The first task was to record and catalougue details of the various stencils on the airframe, as these will need to be replaced by home-made decals.
*PIC 2.* The bombs and pylons, which were only tacked in plave, had to be removed, along with all the delicate parts such as antennas and step. the landing gear is to complex to remove without damaging it, so will be masked during clean-up and re-paint. 
*PIC 3.* The first pylon removed, with the area ready for clean-up. Just discernible in this shot are the tiny pilot holes for the rocket rail mounting points.
*PIC 4*. the prop shaft will ned to be removed, and a hole drilled thriough into the engine block, to accepth the shaft moulded onto the back of the repalcement, four blade prop. A dust filter will also be fabricated and fitted to the oil cooler intake, in the centre of the 'chin' radiator. These were essential for operations from dusty strips during the Normandy campaign.
*PIC 5*. One of the landing lamps, which will be faired over and painted. 
Next step is to thoroughly clean the model, before lightly sanding and applying a promer coat, ready for re-spraying in fresh camoufalge colours.
Thanks for looking, and I'll pst another update soon.


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## vikingBerserker (Mar 30, 2010)

This is going to be VERY interesting!


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## rochie (Mar 31, 2010)

good stuff Terry


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## Wayne Little (Mar 31, 2010)

Have fun Terry!


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## Vic Balshaw (Mar 31, 2010)

Quite a challenge your setting yourself here T, good luck mate and you can be assured I'll pop in from time to time to see how your progressing.


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## Wurger (Mar 31, 2010)

With all here Terry.


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## Airframes (Mar 31, 2010)

Thanks guys. Should have some more in a few days.


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## r2800doublewasp (Mar 31, 2010)

Looks great so far! I am gonna be honest- from my point of view it already looks fantastic, but if youre gonna make it better thats fine with me. Good job


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## Airframes (Apr 3, 2010)

Thanks Jack, very nice of you to say so. 
Not much to photograph at the moment, as it's mostly 'destructive construction', preparing the lower wings for the RP rails. I need to prepare mounting points, so that the rails can be fitted after the model is repainted, plus plan some other areas which will need carefull handling. It's a bit awkward, with the landing gear still in place, but I should have some progress shots soon.


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## Airframes (Apr 19, 2010)

Sorry for the lack of up-dates, the Messerschmitt 'restoration' went on longer than I anticipated.
The model has now been sanded down, after a thorough degreasing, and is almost ready to be re-painted. Whilst working out the best way to mount the new resin prop and spinner, I carefully removed one of the engine cowling panles, which looks like it will 'clip' back in place quite nicely, making it possible to display the starboard side of the engine when or if required. I'd forgotten that the kit's representation of the huge Napier Sabre engine is quite good, and I'm considering adding some scratch-built detail to this now - after all, I've got 1,200 metres of copper wire to use up!
At present, the model is looking sorry for itself, with flatted paintwork and decals, but I'll post some pics of the re-painting process soon. I've decided on an entirely new identity for the Typhoon, which will be from one of two from squadrons which served with 2 TAF, but retained the 'Sky' spinner, rather than the normal black item associared with the Tactical Air Force. To this end, I've purchased the Xtradecal 1/32nd scale sheets for the 24 inch 'Sky' code letters, which seem an odd dark shade to me, especially when compared to that company's 1/48th scale version of the same decals. But, time will tell, and I'm sure I'll be able to do something to match the colour with the tail band and spinner.
I should have some pics posted either very late tonight, or sometime tomorrow.
Thanks again for your interest.


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## Airframes (Apr 19, 2010)

OK, here's a few pics of the work done so far.
*PIC 1* Is how the model looks, with all small items such as antenna and gun bay doors removed, and the paintwork cleaned and sanded down. The landing gear was a bit tricky to remove without damaging it, and is quite sturdy, so this will be carefully wrapped in foil or cling-film, and masked during the re-painting.
*PIC 2*. The areas for the RP rail pick-up points are being scraped down to the bare plastic, to ensure a clean and firm joint when the resin rails are eventually fitted. When done, the small rectangles of cleared area will be masked. 
*PIC 3.* The engine, 're-discovered' under the removed cowling section. This will have engine bearers made and fitted, and some other detail added, so that it can be displayed if required.
*PIC 4.* The original kit was issued as the 'car door' version, and had a moulding depression along the central part of the fuselage, around the cockpit, not unlike the insert area on the Haegawa 1/48th scale kit. This was possibly something related to the eventual release of a 'bubbletop' version, which never did appear. The depression was sanded down when the model was first built, but still showed feintly after painting, when it was too late to rectify further! It has now been totally removed, and the fueselage should now look even across its length.
*PIC 5.* The 'bubble' canopy was home made, being moulded from clear plastic sheet, and this has now been carefully removed, revealing the scratch-built gunsight in the cockpit. I can't remember how I attached the canopy and blended it to the fuselage, but it was stuck like sh** to a blanket!! This will either be cut to pose in the open position, or possibly be replaced by a vac-form item from Squadron, also posed open, which wasn't around when the model was first built.
*PIC 6.* With the canopy removed, it's possible to get a glimpse of some of the scratch-built detail in the cockpit which, for some unknown reason, I painted in Cockpit Green. Apart from the seat and some framing, It should be predominantly black, at least on the side walls anyway, and I'll attempt to rectify this when the time comes.
So, the next job is to clean the model again, and then mask the neccessary areas, before spraying overall in a light grey primer.
Thanks again for your interest, and I'll post another up-date soon.


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## Crimea_River (Apr 19, 2010)

Good going Terry. Looks like it's been through the ringer! Should be entertaining getting the engine mounts in.

Can you tell me how you molded that canopy or point me to a "how-to" link?


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## Airframes (Apr 19, 2010)

Thanks Andy. The canopy was moulded by carving, sealing and polishing a balsa 'male', then pushing it through clear plastic sheet fastened to a 'female' mould template, after heating the sheet until it becomes ...er...floppy!
I've been meaning to post a tutorial on how to do this for some time, so I'll try to get it done soon, as I may have to mould some clear and 'solid' parts for other projects.


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## 109ROAMING (Apr 20, 2010)

Thanks for the thread T , looking good mate. Look forward to more on it


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## A4K (Apr 20, 2010)

Should look great when she's (re)done Terry!


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## Airframes (Apr 20, 2010)

Thanks Evan and Daniel. I should have some more pics posted soon.


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## Crimea_River (Apr 20, 2010)

Thanks Terry. A separate post would be good. Another task for your To Do List!


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## Airframes (Apr 20, 2010)

No probs Andy. Had power cuts this evening, so everything is running late.Ii'll post something as soon as i can.


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## Airframes (Apr 26, 2010)

Ignore this post, I'm just trying something


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## Airframes (Apr 26, 2010)

With my computer in for updating, I've got quite a bit done on the Typhoon over the last three days, although it doesn't seem like it! I can't seem to open pictures on the forum at the moment, some sort of glitch in the new hardware I presume, so if any of the following have already been posted, apologies - I'm unable to look to see what I've already posted!
Anyway, the model has been completely rubbed- down, and all the work required before painting has now been completed, including improving some areas originally modified when the model was first converted.
*PIC 1. *The rectangular hole for the spring-loaded hand-hold on the starboard side has been cut, and will have the open cover made and fitted after the model has been painted.
*PIC 2.* The two small holes shown here, at the forward edge of the wheel bays, will be glazed later, and are the twin, downward Identification Lamps. The radiator exit flap was cut open and the flap itself made from plastic card, with a stretched sprue actuating ram, when the model was first built. Note the tissue masking the rear of the radiator and ducting, and the wheel bays.
*PIC 3*.The wing underside has had a lot of attention. Here, small patches of masking tape can be seen covering the 'bare' areas where the rocket launch rails will eventually be mounted, and also the masking tape at the outer edges of the 'Invasion Stripes', which will be re-painted by hand later; this is just to minimise overspray. The small holes near the wing trailing edge are going to be the electrical connectors for the RP's firing wires, and will have connector sockets made and added later.
*PIC 4.* A mounting step had previously been made and fitted, which was removed to ease sanding and masking etc. The housing slot for this has now been cut in the lower, starboard fuselage, and the 'retractable' step will be re-fitted later.
*PIC 5.* Some light engraving has been completed around the cowling panel joints, and a few other small areas.
*PIC 6.* A small hole for the gun camera aperture had originally been reamed, and this has now been properly drilled. The radiator intake is stuffed with tissue, in preparation for painting the model.
*PIC 7.* The edges of all the main control surfaces and trim tabs have been sawn through, to present a more realistic appearance, compared to the moulded lines of the kit.
*PIC 8*. Rocket-firing Typhoons originally had both landing lamps faired over, as it was thought the rocket's exhaust blast would cause the Perspex to catch fire. This was found not to be the case, and quite often, one lamp was re-fitted. On the completed model, one lamp will retain its' clear lens, whilst this one has been lightly sanded, and will be painted over, to simulate the metal fairing. 
Next step is to adapt the new resin prop spinner in order to ensure a good fit to the nose of the model. Once that has been done, the model will be primed, checked for any surface imperfections, which will be corrected (within reason!), and then the camouflage colours applied.
I should have some pics of this later tonight. Thanks again for your interest.


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## Crimea_River (Apr 26, 2010)

Looks like a job for the body shop Terry! Lotsa luck!


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## Airframes (Apr 26, 2010)

Thanks Andy, and you're not far wrong! It's now actually looking like it's just come out of the body shop, all dressed in grey primer. Reminds me of my old Escort rally car years ago - that was re-painted a couple of times too!
Anyway, the resin prop spinner, from Model Design Construction, has now been adapted to fit. The spinner has a 'prop shaft' moulded into it, but so does the engine in the model! A decision had to be reached on the best way to fit the new prop, and the pics tell the story.
*PIC 1*. The MDC four-blade prop spinner, showing the casting plug and substantial shaft. To utilise the model's prop shaft would mean cutting off the spinner's shaft flush with the back-plate, and then drilling the relevant sized hole. I envisaged possible damage to the spinner's edges if this was done, and possibly snapping the plastic shaft on the model due to the extra weight of the resin prop and spinner, so I opted for a different approach.
*PIC 2.* The 'plug' on the end of the spinner shaft was carefully sawn off, and then a hole drilled into the shaft. A length of wire was then superglued into the hole, and a collet added, made from a piece of plastic tubing. This somewhat Heath- Robinson assembly will then fit into a drilled and counter-sunk hole in the front of the model's engine and coolant tank, after removing and drilling-out the prop shaft moulded onto the engine's front casing!
Hopefully, you're still following this so far!
*PIC 3.* Just visible here is the larger diameter hole, where the prop shaft was removed and drilled-out. A smaller diameter hole was then drilled inside this, into the engine 'block'. The spinner's shaft, with the plastic collet, fits into these holes, with the wire providing reinforcement and balance. For a closer, tighter fit, I might yet end up supergluing the back-plate of the spinner to the front-plate of the model's nose. 
*PIC 4.* Moving on, and masking is underway. As it wasn't possible to remove the main landing gear without incurring damage, the assemblies were wrapped in kitchen foil, gently pressed into place, just to protect from any possible over-spray.
*PIC 5*. The model now masked where required, ready for the primer coat.
*PIC 6.* The primer is also the underside colour, Medium Sea Grey, and an extra coat was applied here, especially over the fuselage AEAF stripes. These, and the 'old' stripes under the wings, will be re-applied/painted later, by brush, after the camouflage colours, and the 'Sky' tail band (not yet applied) have fully dried.
*PIC 7*. With the model primed overall, and no serious blemishes to worry about, it'll be left to dry and harden for around 18 to 24 hours, before spraying the upper surface colours of Ocean Grey and Dark Green.
That's all for now folks, and thanks again for your interest.


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## Wayne Little (Apr 27, 2010)

My Oh My!...you have been a busy little beaver....

Nice!


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## Airframes (Apr 27, 2010)

Thanks Wayne. But now it looks like it's all come to a halt! First the computer throws a wobbly, and is then re-built, only to find I can't open pictures in the forum, and now, half-way through spraying the second upper- surface colour, my airbrush has gone t*ts up !!
I'm not sure what the exact problem is yet, although I suspect it's the needle. It'll spray thinners beautifully, but as soon as even over-thinned paint (enamel) goes through it, it either won't spray, sprays very weakly, or pulses and / or spatters when the paint cip is used. Paint in the body itself seems to spray partially, so I reckon a sticking or slipping needle and maybe an 'O' ring worn.
I've part stripped it, adjusted the needle etc and got to the first stage of spraying, then - nothing!
B*ll*cks! It's one thing after another, and I'm more p*ssed off than a really p*ssed off thing on a bad day!!!


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## Airframes (Apr 27, 2010)

Hurray! The lack of pics problem has been solved!! My system needed to be switched to compatability view, since the up-grade to I.E.8, and now all appears to be working. Next job, get the bl**dy airbrush to work again!!


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## Airframes (Apr 27, 2010)

R.I.P. one airbrush I think! 
The problem appeared to be a slipping needle, which had stuck slightly in the nozzle guide, causing the guide chuck to loosen slightly. I managed to get the Ocean Grey sprayed, doing just the camouflage pattern, instead of an overall coat, and had just started on the Dark Green when the problem occured.
So I then cleaned-out the brush, prior to stripping it to clean the needle thoroughly at the point where it passes through the mix chamber into the nozzle head. I'd just removed the nozzle jet when I dropped the bl**dy brush, which, of course, landed tip-down on a hard floor! One (only just) bent tip to the needle, and a shock-loaded chucking guide!
I should have wiped the paint and thinners off my hands before proceeding! So it looks like a new 'brush is the easiest solution, as by the time I've bought the spare parts, the cost isn't much different!
So, the model is now mainly airbrushed, with the Dark Green brush-painted, and looking a bit odd as the Green is satin finish, not that it matters after clear coats, and has dried patchily - bl**dy impostor- so-called - Humbrol!
Ah well! On to the next stage I suppose, and I guess I'll have to get a cheap, basic airbrush to apply the clear coats with, as I'll have to wait a couple or three weeks before I can afford a new, 'proper' airbrush, after paying for the computer up-date!
Anyway, here's how the Typhoon looks so far, with the Ocean Grey sprayed first, and then the brush-painted Dark Green.
Cheers, I'm off to bed - unless that's bust too!


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## Crimea_River (Apr 27, 2010)

What a run of bad luck you're having mate! Glad your computer issue seems to be resolved at least. Tiffy is looking nice too. Perhaps a used airbrush on e-bay will do the trick. Any chance of bending the tip back? Nothign to lose since it's garbage anyway.


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## A4K (Apr 28, 2010)

Sorry to hear the airbrush troubles Terry, but bloody nice work anyway!

Like your 'ignore this post' comment too - it's like when pople say 'can I ask you a question?' 
Reminds me of a saying read somewhere too - 'If you notice this notice, you will notice it's not worth noticing'...


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## T Bolt (Apr 28, 2010)

Beautiful work Terry! I can’t believe that’s the same Typhoon from earlier in the thread. I suspect an imposter!! 

I’d give straightening the needle a shot if there is nothing to lose. I’ve had some luck by pressing it against a hard surface and rolling it as you draw it backward. It’s given some extra life to a few of my needles.


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## Catch22 (Apr 28, 2010)

Looking good Terry!


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## Airframes (Apr 28, 2010)

Thanks very much guys. Hopefully it'll turn out alright in the end. I'm going to have a try at bending the needle tip back. If it doesn't work, then at least I can keep the brush for spares.


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## Airframes (Apr 29, 2010)

The main painting is now done, although there are a couple of small areas needing re-touching, mainly around the yellow, wing leading-edge I.D. stripes. I used acrylic paint for this, as I'd run out of enamel, and it has 'picked' and curled in a couple of places where the masking tape had been.
*PIC 1*. The Dark Green has now been brush-painted, since the airbrush went t*ts up, and the non-slip wing walkways painted on, then textured by stippling with a stiff brush. The green looks a bit streaky in this shot, due to it being satin finish, but this will smooth out and disappear once clear coated. The 'Sky' tail band was bush-painted, and I had to mix the colour to get near to the shade of the decals, which seem rather dark for 'Sky', especially when compared to the 1/48th scale version from the same manufacturer. I've compromised, and settled for a tone in-between 'true' Sky, and the decal shade, as the latter just might appear lighter once applied.
*PIC 2.* The AEAF stripes have been brush-painted on the lower fuselage, and re-painted on the wings, with a slightly streaky, patchy effect, and neat but not perfectly straight or equal, to mimic the 'real thing'. Note that on this particular aircraft, the fuselage stripes were further back than normal, aligning the rear-most white stripe on the 'Sky' tail band. Some very light panel line work has also been completed, visible in this shot.
*PIC 3. *The overall finish is relatively clean, with only light panel definition, as this was a replacement aircraft on the Squadron (full story later). Some very light weathering and staining will be applied once the decals are in place.
*PIC 4*. The next job is to add some detail to the bare wheel bays. The retraction jack seen here, in the centre of each bay, was made when the model was first built, using tube and rod, and a similar, smaller jack, plus hinges and locks, are on the inner bay doors, removed for ease of handling. Some wiring, pipework and structural framing will be added here, using copper and lead wire, plastic strip and stretched sprue.
When that's all done, then it'll be time to look at the engine, to see what can be done in the way of adding some detail, a job which would normally take place before the fuselage is assembled!
Thanks again for your kind comments, and I'll post another update soon.


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## A4K (Apr 29, 2010)

Coming along Terry! Like the weathering on the lower surfaces.


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## Airframes (Apr 29, 2010)

Thanks Evan, it's getting there. I just hope the RP rails will attach without any major dramas!


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## A4K (Apr 29, 2010)

On that subject, how come only the rear mounting holes are featured?


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## 109ROAMING (Apr 29, 2010)

Looking bloody good there Terry!


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## Airframes (Apr 29, 2010)

Thanks Daniel.
Evan, they aren't the mounting holes; as mentioned in one of the posts, they're the holes I drilled where I'll make and fit the plug-sockets for the 'pig-tail' firing- wire connectors from each RP. The RP rails have 'flat' mounting plates on the end of each stub pylon, which will be glued to small areas of bare plastic, scraped free of paint, which have been masked during painting with small squares of tape. Which reminds me - I forgot to remove the tape!!


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## Wayne Little (Apr 29, 2010)

Doin' great Terry!


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## lesofprimus (Apr 29, 2010)

Lookin really great Terry, hard to realize that the top pic is the same kit...


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## T Bolt (Apr 29, 2010)

Looking beautiful Terry!


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## Airframes (Apr 29, 2010)

Thanks very much guys. It certainly looks better in its fresh paintwork. The original model wasn't too bad - if the faded, filthy and slightly worn paintwork was ignored (!) - but it's now starting to look like I originally intended it to look. Once the rockets and rails are on, and the four-bladed prop, it should really look different!


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## A4K (Apr 29, 2010)

Ah, cheers Terry! (Sorry, hadn't read alll the posts!)


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## Catch22 (Apr 29, 2010)

Very nice!


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## rochie (Apr 29, 2010)

good stuff Dogsbody


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## Airframes (Apr 29, 2010)

Thanks very much Cory and Karl, and no problem Evan.


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## Airframes (May 1, 2010)

The wheel wells have now had some detail added, and just need cleaning-up and painting, then it's time to move on to the engine, and add a little detail there.
*PICS 1 and 2.* The wheel bays have had some plastic strip and rod added to represent the main framework. This area, although the correct shape, is not totally accurate, as the bay walls were set back, with the external ribs visible. The only way to replicate this would have been to cut out the moulded walls before the model was constructed, but I wasn't aiming that far for detail in this area twenty-odd years ago, and it's a bit late now! 
Fuse boxes and a check-list wallet have been made from scraps of plastic card, and the emergency CO2 bottle carved from a piece of sprue, with plastic rod, flattened at the end, forming the valve. Electrical and hydraulic lines have been added, using copper and lead wire. The staining visible is a combination of dry-brushed 'dust' added when the model was first built, and erosion of the old silver paint from the liquid poly cement and superglue used to fix the new additions. This will be cleaned-up, and the bays painted matt silver, and the details picked out in the relevant colours.
*PIC 3.* This shows the engine as provided in the kit, looking down into the area of the radiator and ducting. The kit part is actually a fairly good representation of the huge Napier 'Sabre', 24 cylinder engine, and only needs a couple of pipes and wires, plus the main engine bearers and a vertical cowling support to look more convincing. However, only the front screen of the radiator is provided, along with the central trunking, as the remainder would not be seen with the cowlings in place. I'm going to attempt to add the radiator outer wall, which will be fixed to the front screen, the black part visible immediately beneath the engine block, and curved around and down, over the trunking, which is the silver cylinder behind the screen. If this works (fingers crossed), then the relevant pipework and brackets will be added, with the main hose running up to the coolant tank, at the front of the engine, right behind the extreme front nose panel.
*PIC 4* Shows the firewall bulkhead, which again is rather plain. A diagonal support for the engine bearer will be fitted here, made from plastic rod, and attached to a bracket on a second rod, below this, representing the main bearer, running from the bulkhead forward, to the bottom of the front casing on the engine. Some hoses, pipes and wiring will also be added here. Finally, the vertical main cowling support will be made from wire or stretched sprue, and fitted to a bracket on the exhaust manifold housing, at the point of the upper number 3 cylinder. That's the plan anyway, but I have a feeling it's going to be a bit like the gynaecologist who decorated his entrance hall through the letter box!
Oh, and of course the surrounding lip of the engine bay _will_ be cleaned-up to remove the oversprayed paint!
I'll post another up-date soon, and thanks once more for your interest.


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## Wildcat (May 1, 2010)

Nice work on the wheel bays Terry


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## Airframes (May 1, 2010)

Thanks very much Andy.


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## Wayne Little (May 1, 2010)

Nice Terry!


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## rochie (May 1, 2010)

wheel bays look great Dogsbody


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## Catch22 (May 1, 2010)

Very nice!


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## Airframes (May 1, 2010)

Thanks very much guys, I should have some more pics soon.


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## T Bolt (May 1, 2010)

Love what you've done with the wheel wells Terry!!


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## Airframes (May 1, 2010)

Thanks very much Glenn. It's getting harder to do these days as my hands and wrists get worse. Good job you couldn't hear the extensive new vocabulary invented during the assembly of some of these parts!!


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## Lucky13 (May 1, 2010)

Splendid work old boy!


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## Airframes (May 1, 2010)

Thanks awfully old chap!


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## vikingBerserker (May 1, 2010)

Outstanding!


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## A4K (May 1, 2010)

With all..great work Terry!


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## Airframes (May 1, 2010)

Thanks very much DB and Evan.


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## Vic Balshaw (May 2, 2010)

Damn me T, that’s a fine piece of work you’ve done thre.


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## Airframes (May 2, 2010)

Thanks Vic. Your photos came in handy for the wheel bays mate! I only had one B&W pic, which only showed one angle, so your pics filled in the missing details. Interesting that those pics, which are of course of the Typhoon in the RAF Museum, the only known complete survivor, show a yellow line enclosing the 'Basic Six' blind-flying instruments. This can only have been applied during the aircraft's time in the U.S.A., where this 'system' is known to have been used on the P51 at least. Cockpit photos of Typhoons in RAF service don't show this line, and it was not a practice used or adopted by Britain. This raises the question, was it standard practice on all single - seat combat aircraft in U.S. service? I'm guessing the answer is yes, so maybe all models of not only the P51, but also the P47, P40, P39, and P38 should have the strip on the panel.


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## T Bolt (May 2, 2010)

Airframes said:


> Interesting that those pics, which are of course of the Typhoon in the RAF Museum, the only known complete survivor, show a yellow line enclosing the 'Basic Six' blind-flying instruments. This can only have been applied during the aircraft's time in the U.S.A., where this 'system' is known to have been used on the P51 at least. Cockpit photos of Typhoons in RAF service don't show this line, and it was not a practice used or adopted by Britain. This raises the question, was it standard practice on all single - seat combat aircraft in U.S. service? I'm guessing the answer is yes, so maybe all models of not only the P51, but also the P47, P40, P39, and P38 should have the strip on the panel.



Terry I collected quite few pictures of US fighter control panels when I was deciding which one to make in 1:1 scale. The only two fighters I found with the stripe around the flight instruments were the P-51 and the P-47, and at that only later models of those aircraft. In all the P-51 panels I saw with the stripe it was yellow, while it was white on the P-47 panels with the exception of two I saw with a yellow stripe, but I tend to discount these as it looked like those two panels had been restored.


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## Airframes (May 2, 2010)

Thanks Glenn, useful info. I must admit, I too have only ever seen the stripe on the P51, mainly 'D' but also some later 'C' models, and on the P47, the latter not on all shots seen. On the P51, this stripe was actually yellow tape, which I guess was easier, and quicker, to apply than masking and painting. In all the pics seen, the strip has only been on ETO based aircraft, presumably as instrument flying would be much more common with weather conditions across Europe, especially the UK !!!


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## T Bolt (May 2, 2010)

That would make sense as the stripe doesn't appear on all the control panels. I had heard that about the yellow stripe on the P-51 being tape and I seem to remember seeing it peeling off in one photo I've seen. The white stripe on the P-47's I've seen always seems to be thinner than the one on the P-51's and in some photos seems to be partially missing so could possibly have been paint? I used white decal film so I know mine isn't technically correct but it looks the part. You'd be surprised at some of the things I've bolted on that thing to look like something else. The stick is a piece of fence post and last night I cut up a 10' section of braided stainless steel plumbing supply hose and stuck the pieces to various instruments to make it look busy behind the panel where you could see it.


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## Airframes (May 2, 2010)

Nothing wrong with that mate! In the 1980's, there was a British TV serial called 'Airline', which was centred around a fledgling airline immediately after WW2, and involving the Berlin Airlift etc. This 'airline' used Dakotas (C47/DC3), and the studio built a very convincing mock-up of the cockpit for close shots etc. The electrical and air trunking was made from vacuum cleaner hose, and some switches and knobs on the instrument panel were made from the caps off toothpaste tubes, which looked exactly like the real thing! Apparently they had a guy behind the panel, out of shot, manually moving the instrument needles fior some shots, and the instrument dials had been made from baked bean and soup cans! You couldn't tell though, so if it does the job, use it!


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## T Bolt (May 2, 2010)




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## Crimea_River (May 2, 2010)

Coming along nicely Terry.


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## Airframes (May 3, 2010)

Thanks Andy. I've got a bit more done, just got to get the pics sorted - should have them up later.


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## Airframes (May 3, 2010)

Well it was a bit fiddly (a_ lot _bl**dy fiddly!!), but I eventually got some sort of detail added to the engine bay. From the side, the Napier 'Sabre' is actually a rather neat and plain installation, and there wasn't that much to add which would be visible. The work mainly involved a representation of the radiator casing, the engine bearers and the upper, vertical cowling support plus some hoses, pipework and wiring.
*PICS 1 and 2* show the additions, made from plastic card and strip, scrap plastic, stretched sprue, plastic rod, copper wire and cable sheathing. Now the hard part will be painting the whole lot!
The Typhoon mounted the engine cooling radiator in the prominent 'chin' fairing, with the circular oil cooler set into the cente of the housing.
*PIC 3* shows the basic unit on the model before the 'restoration'. The only additions were the vertical frames, from plastic strip.
The 'Sabre' was prone to various problems, including engine fire on start - up, and overheating at the drop of a hat. Consequently, to combat the dust and other problems encountered on the forward airstrips in Normandy during the summer of 1944, a number of 'mods' were tried and fitted. These included a dust filter fitted to the front of the oil cooler, and a mesh guard over the inside of the main intake. I'm going to attempt to build and fit these, and I'm hoping that the main mesh guard can be replicated by adapting the PE radiator matrices left over from the Dragon P51 kit.
*PIC 4* shows the screens, which will be cut to shape and joined, hopefully, and then fitted into the 'chin' housing. A box-like oil-cooler filter will be made from thin plastic card and fitted over the intake first.
*PIC 5.* The masking has now been removed from the cockpit area, and the first stage of re-painting completed, on the head armour and upper cockpit walls. The mounting bracket for the gunsight has been fitted, using plastic rod. The gunsight on the Typhoon didn't have a reflector screen, the graticule being reflected directly onto the windscreen, and the scratch-built sight replicates this. The latter was slightly damaged due to masking and handling, and this will be repaired and re-painted as neccessary. A wire from the canopy crank to the rear of the canopy has also been fitted, using stretched sprue, and the whole area has yet to be cleaned up, and the canopy rails removed and re-fitted where the 'rough' paintwork is visible, below the cokpit lip.
Thanks again for your interest and kind words, and I'll post another up-date soon.


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## Lucky13 (May 3, 2010)

Absolutely maaaarvelous old boy, splendid don't you know what!


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## Airframes (May 3, 2010)

I say old boy, jolly nice of you to say so, what!


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## Lucky13 (May 3, 2010)

Care for a spot of tea old boy?


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## Airframes (May 3, 2010)

Rather have a snifter old chap!


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## Lucky13 (May 3, 2010)

Jolly good old chap......snifter it is then.


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## Crimea_River (May 3, 2010)

Cheers lads, and nice work there Terry.


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## Airframes (May 3, 2010)

Thanks very much Andy !
The wheel bays and engine bay are now painted, the latter involving some contortions - rather uncomfortable with my already knackered hands!
*PIC 1 and 2.* The wheel bays, re-painted in matt silver, with the details picked out as appropriate. 
*PICS 3 to 5.* The engine bay finished and painted. It was a bit difficult to achieve good camera angles without the shadow of the camera intruding, so these will have to do I'm afraid! The exhaust stubs have yet to have some light smoke staining added, which wlll also be applied to the cowling, and this will be done once the model has had its final matt clear coat.
The removed cowling panels will be separated into their two parts, and internal stiffener frames added later.
I'll post another up-date soon, which should be the assembling and painting of the RP's and rails.


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## T Bolt (May 3, 2010)

What a difference you made in the engine bay!


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## Airframes (May 3, 2010)

Thanks Glenn. Best I could do with an already assembled model, but at least it gives an impression of the mighty 'Sabre'.


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## A4K (May 4, 2010)

Bloody hell, lovely work Terry!


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## Airframes (May 4, 2010)

Thanks very much Evan!


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## FalkeEins (May 4, 2010)

yep, coming along nicely...actually I find 'refurbishing' my old kits almost as much fun as building new ones. 

Recommend the PremiAir G35 if looking for a new 'cheap' brush ...it's a dual-action Iwata entry level 'copy' for about £30 which I bought as a 'spare' ..but I've had so much fun with mine I haven't picked up either of my Badgers since...


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## Airframes (May 4, 2010)

Thanks mate. The 'brush I had was/is similar to the Iwata, made in the UK by AB, who have been around some time. Works great, and very well made. I think I've got it working to an extent, which will be good enough for general use, down to about 3mm, but the needle, now straightened out, won't allow the 1mm or less I could achieve. No problem, I'll get another one when there isn't as much month left at the end of the money! They're £28 direct from AB, and are also sold under other names, via dealers etc., so possibly the same one as the 'Premi Air'.


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## Mr. Ed (May 5, 2010)

That's a awesome amount of work. You da' man! It's a good thing you live so far away from me because if you were in my neck of the woods I'd be a constant uninvited guest, always poking around and wondering what you're up to and grilling you with questions.


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## Airframes (May 5, 2010)

Thanks Ed. There's actually not that much added - the engine block has some detail moulded in.


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## Airframes (May 6, 2010)

And now on to the fiddly bits - the Rocket Projectiles and rails!
The following is also intended as a guide for Daniel (109 Roaming), who also has a set of these RP's, and will be converting the old Revell kit to, so pleas bear with me..
The Typhoon was fitted to carry either bombs, or RP's, but not both. The model will be a rocket-carrying Typhoon, with a change of identity from the thread title, and will be the replacement 'mount' of Sqn. Ldr. Mc.Nair, of 247 Squadron, RAF, in late July,1944, coded ZY-G, serial number MN928.
The RP's were normally the 3 inch, 60 pound SAP/HE, although 25lb armour piercing missiles were also available, used mainly for anti-shipping strikes.
The RP's used in this conversion are the very nice resin set from Model Design Consultants, with the later launch rails and the 60lb warhead.
*PIC 1*. Shows the parts for one RP and rail set laid out, with the rail at the top, and below it the warhead and rocket motor body, with the electrical firing 'pigtail' at right, and below, the P.E. set for the fins and mounts.
The first job is to prepare each rocket-motor body, by cleaning-up any moulding residue or flash, and remove the moulding strip from the top of each launch rail, and the moulding plug from each warhead.
*PIC 2*. This is the forward end of the RP body, where the warhead attaches. The extreme end needs to be carefully removed with a razor saw, and the remaining 'stub' very gently sanded to remove any excess resin.
*PIC 3.* The end of the casting removed, showing where the warhead slides on.
*PIC 4.* The tail-end of the RP body, with the grooves for the brass fins. The raised lines with small 'studs' are where the brass reinforcing strips attach. Note that the 'saddles', the brackets which mount the RP to the rail, have a groove on one end, and this is the end which attaches to the rail. It may be necessary to clean-out this groove slightly, but _be careful _- it's very easy to cut-in too far!!
*PIC 5.* I drilled the tail-end of each RP body, in order to insert a piece of wire later, to facilitate painting. This is optional, and it might be best not to bother, as the resin can easily split, as shown later. The completed missiles can be clamped by one fin whilst painting, and then this fin painted later.
*PIC 6.* The casting plug has been carefully sawn from the warhead, the area gently sanded to clean it up, and then the part pushed onto the RP body, with a small spot of 'Superglue' on the end of the latter. NOTE: the notches on either side of the warhead nose represent the notches on the real item, where a spanner or 'key' would fit, to tighten the warhead after it had been fully screwed home on the body. The warhead has also been moulded with a textured finish, duplicating the rough-cast appearance of the real thing.
*PIC 7*. These are some of the brass photo-etched parts. At the top, the small strips with the 'pimpled' surface are the reinforcing strips for each fin, which fit one either side. The 'pimples' are supposed to locate into tiny dimples on the ridges along the end of the body - yeah, right!
The fins have a small, triangular 'tab' on one edge, below the round hole, and this fits into a tiny hole between the ribs on each RP body. I found that the 'tab' needed cutting down slightly to allow the fin to 'seat' properly.
*PIC 8.* One fin in place, with the reinforcing strips either side, attached with small spots of 'Superglue'. For me, this was a fiddly, tiresome job, but for people with normal dexterity, it shouldn't pose any major problem. All that's required is patience and a relatively steady hand. But be warned, there are 32 sets of these to fit!!
Note the very small piece missing from the end of the 'exhaust' outlet. This is where the resin split whilst drilling.

That's it so far. Once each RP has been fully assembled, they'll then be painted, and fitted to the rails, which will also have been painted. The vinyl 'pigtails' will be fitted into the rear of each rocket-motor, and painted in situ, but left hanging, after each rocket and rail has been fitted, as a complete unit, to the underside of the wings. (NOTE: the 'pigtails' were only connected to the wing sockets immediately before start-up and take off, in case of any electrical 'short' or other malfunction causing accidental launch.)
Thanks again for your interest, and I'll post another update soon - or when I recover from handling tiny PE parts!!!


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## Crimea_River (May 7, 2010)

Wow, fiddley bits is right. One down and seven to go. Nice work!


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## Catch22 (May 7, 2010)

Looks great Terry!


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## Heinz (May 7, 2010)

Great work Terry!


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## rochie (May 7, 2010)

good job Dogsbody but rather you than me mate !!!


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## T Bolt (May 7, 2010)

Wow Terry! You could spend as much time on the rockets as you've already spent on the Typhoon to this point! Should look great when finished!! 8)


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## Vic Balshaw (May 7, 2010)

What a great detailed finish to the wheel bays Terry, it looks as though you're also heading in the same direction with the rockets.


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## A4K (May 7, 2010)

Great work Terry!


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## Airframes (May 7, 2010)

Thanks very much guys. And the next time I announce that I'm going to restore and detail an old model. someone please tell me not to be so bl**dy stupid! These RP's are doing my head in! But you're right, they should look great when done - I hope!


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## Wayne Little (May 8, 2010)




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## Airframes (May 8, 2010)

Thanks Wayne! I'm doing this a bit at a time, as it's fiddly and repetitive, so I'll have another update in a day or two.


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## Wurger (May 8, 2010)

With Wayne. Great work so far Terry.


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## Airframes (May 8, 2010)

Thanks Commander Bondski !!!


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## Wurger (May 8, 2010)




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## Night Fighter Nut (Jun 3, 2010)

Looking great!


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## Airframes (Jun 3, 2010)

Thanks NFN. Got a bit more done on the RP's, but no pics, as one RP looks much like another RP......


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