# Tamiya Rattle Cans



## silence (Nov 27, 2013)

Finally broke down and tried a can. Wow, am I impressed! Shoulda been using these long ago.

(But that may just be the fumes from painting indoors talking!)

Anyway, just thought I'd share that. I may well be buying more in the future!


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## N4521U (Nov 27, 2013)

I use them when I CAN. sorry.

Just have to be aware you'll have fits trying to paint Tamiya acrylics over them. It's a bit testy.
I use the TS series, flat black for props and things. I use the TS30 Silver Leaf for the shiny stuff.
The AS series are mil spec match colors. AS8 is the Corsair blue for instance.

Not cheap, but easy to use and don't have to move the BBQ paint bench out of the sun!


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## Airframes (Nov 27, 2013)

I'm quite surprised. I've found any type of aerosol to be limited in its use on models, except very large scale or large, flat areas, due to lack of control. I know a couple of guys who use them on R/C car bodies, but those things are big. On a 1/48th scale model aircraft, for instance, the spray pattern and finish is just too harsh for my liking.


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## N4521U (Nov 27, 2013)

This is Tamiya rattle cans, not the 5 dollar stuff from the hardware.
The difference is like house paint and sign painters enamels.
It's the finess in the application of the paint.

I will use it for base colors, but Never try to use it for camo patterns or detail work.


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## Airframes (Nov 27, 2013)

Yep, I tried Tamiya cans also. Yes, there's a noticeable difference, and they worked very well when spraying some full scale dummy mines and grenades, but I still don't rate them for model use - my personal feelings, others may feel different.


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## N4521U (Nov 27, 2013)

It'a okay...
there was a big hullabulloo amongst sign and house painters when some "idiot" invented the paint roller, it was "Cheating".

For some reason or other, Commonwealth painters haven't Discovered them yet. But then, Oz is about 50 years behind in some areas! How can anyone paint an interior wall or a ceiling by brush?????


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## Crimea_River (Nov 27, 2013)

I'll stick with my airbrush thanks.


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## mikewint (Nov 27, 2013)

With Terry totally, I used them before I had the airbrush but you have no control of the spray pattern hence a lot of overspray and more paint is lost clearing the nozzle


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## N4521U (Nov 27, 2013)

I would do just airbrush, as I did in the States. But I had a sign shop with a dedicated airbrush hook-up to a 5hp compressor and all my stuff at hand. In fact I used to use my One Shot brand sign paint enamels.

But here I have to have clear weather around my BBQ for my 12psi putt putter!


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## silence (Nov 27, 2013)

Seems I opened a small can of worms (sorry).

I do not have and do not want an airbrush. For camo I actually like the look I can get with brushes, and I like painting with brushes. The rattle can is just for the base/overall color; I should have been clearer..

And I'm sticking with enamels over the spray. I just like enamels better than acrylics.

Tamiya rattle cans were recommended to me by by local hobby store owner, and he was right: far, far better finish than an enamel rattle can. I'm making my ZM Ta 152H-1 an all-over pure white and so far the finish is far beyond what I had hoped for.


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## Crimea_River (Nov 27, 2013)

No can of worms man, just discussion. Everyone has experiences to share and also their own preferences. If the rattle cans work for you, that's great and you should keep doing it.


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## N4521U (Nov 28, 2013)

Yep, I'll second that.....

When I was sign painting I learned to Never use paint straight out of the can, err bottle in this case.
Always a little dab if thinner, mineral spirits, turpintine, in a dish to mix with a brush full of paint. Not in the bottle. Thinner may Speed up the drying and encourage fast drying leading to brush strokes. Turps on the other hand may retard drying, slightly, which lets the paint relax as it sets. Letting the stroke marks settle. 

When I was sign painting with leaded enamels I used a product by Flood, called Penetrol, just a few drops to a 1/4 cup of paint is all it took to let the strokes disapear.

Just sayin.


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## Wildcat (Nov 28, 2013)

Hi silence. I also brush paint and don't have an airbrush, so far I've painted two models with Tamiya spray cans and have been happy with the results.


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## Airframes (Nov 28, 2013)

Yep, I still brush-paint a fair amount, depending on colour scheme. All interior and small detail stuff is brush-painted also. I have found recently though, that getting a good brush, even Sable, is getting more and more difficult, They tend now to be either flat or pointed, and fairly stiff, instead of the 'traditional' soft, semi-round tip I've used for over fifty years. 
The owner of my local art shop said "That's the way they make them now"!
So, instead of buying a couple of expensive Sable No.3 brushes from him, I tried a cheaper one, which was the right shape - and it worked. Won't last as long, but it did the job, and was less than a quarter of the price!


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## N4521U (Nov 28, 2013)

There ya go!


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## ian lanc (Feb 8, 2014)

The tamiya primer in the rattle can comes out superb and really flat, the only trouble is its only in those tiny friggin cans.


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## Airframes (Feb 9, 2014)

Ian, try Halford's primer for plastic bumpers etc. I don't use it myself, but from what I've seen and heard, it works extremely well, and is more cost effective than the small Tamiya aerosols.


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## GrauGeist (Feb 9, 2014)

I have done several automobile models and used the Duplicolor Automotive touch-up spray paints for a factory correct color. It takes some getting used to, but will deliver excellent results with a little practice. Only problem is that it's a lacquer based paint.

I am pretty sure that Duplicolor is an American product, but it may be available overseas. If this is the case, they do make a variety of primers in the larger cans 12.5 oz (345 grams) that will go much further than the little spray cans will and in a variety of colors (red oxide, black, light gray, dark gray and white).

On the other hand, most hardware stores carry spray primer in a variety colors and is considered a "machinery grade enamel" and works well with other comparable spray-paints. A word of caution though, some automotive "touch-up" paints, like Duplicolor, are lacquer based and not compatible with enamels.

This is a 1960's Pontiac GTO 1/32 scale model painted with the Duplicolor touch-up paint (and primer):






Several years ago, I painted my 1966 Ford Mustang with spray primer (medium gray) and a top coat in "XO-25 sky blue", both machinery grade enamel from the local hardware store. Long story as to why I did, but it turned out extremely well. As it so happens, I came across a 1/32 scale kit of a 1966 Mustang and used the same primer and top-coat to replicate it 











Bottom line: spray paints can be very useful and it takes a little practice to get the results you're looking for, but once you get the hang of it, anything's possible!


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## N4521U (Feb 9, 2014)

First of all one has to remember We are on an island, even if it is a continent, it is still remote! All things are not available here. Books have to be Printed here, to be sold here.

Having said that. There are few and far between primers from a hardware store I would be willing to use on a model. Have not tried the touch-up cans............... yet. I may look at the prices tho and see if there is something I can use. Tamiya cans are about $11.50AU here. Used sparingly! Primer comes in a double size can here. But like I have said, acrylics are a b!tch to paint over can paint, so beware.


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## N4521U (Mar 2, 2014)

And now I'll tell ya my GB20 build was painted, except for the interior, with Tamiya rattle cans.
The white, the OD, the gray underside and the clear flat finish!!!!!!


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## prem895 (Feb 17, 2016)

mikewint said:


> With Terry totally, I used them before I had the airbrush but you have no control of the spray pattern hence a lot of overspray and more paint is lost clearing the nozzle




I just decant what I will need for the project. The rest stays nice until needed again.


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## mikewint (Feb 18, 2016)

But it is a *SPRAY *can. Decant? you would have to spray into another container with the accompanying blow back spray, i.e. paint lost then you would still have to spray the nozzle clear with more lost paint.
Would not a simple bottle of paint work much better?


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