# Getting started



## Marcel (Dec 29, 2011)

So here is the deal. About 50 years ago my father-in-law got a model of a Stuka. He started building a little but didn't finish it at the time. He put it on the shelf and the word was that he wanted to finish it when he retired. Now he is retired but never started building. He finally decided that he wouldn't do it anymore. He threw it away, but I secretly retrieved it. I would like to build it and return it to him when finished (if ever). I haven't been building since I was a kid, so I probably don't know what I am doing. 
Not sure if I will finish this, the kit is in a bad shape, but I boldly bought some glue and a knive and will give it a shot anyway. First read up in this forum to see how get starting. I'll post some pictures later.


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## Airframes (Dec 29, 2011)

Sounds good Marcel. I'm guessing it's the original Airfix 1/72nd scale kit?
If so, it should be fairly straightforward and, being an original moulding, the fit of parts might actually be better than the currently available kit!
I'm sure that if you take it stage by stage, and ask any questions you need answers to along the way, it should turn out well.
Looking forward to seeing the progress.


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## Wurger (Dec 29, 2011)

I agree with Terry. I'm at your disposal. Ask if you need please.


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## rochie (Dec 29, 2011)

go for it Marcel


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## Marcel (Dec 29, 2011)

Thanks guys.


Airframes said:


> Sounds good Marcel. I'm guessing it's the original Airfix 1/72nd scale kit?
> If so, it should be fairly straightforward and, being an original moulding, the fit of parts might actually be better than the currently available kit!


No such luck Terry. It's from an obscure manufacturer called Lindberg. Looks pretty cheap. I don't even know the scale. It says 1/4 inch = 1 foot. Have to recalculate that . The model has an electric engine to turn the prop. Unfortunately my father-in-law broke and threw away the stand which should have contained the batteries. One of the propelloeblades is broken. There is no cockpit interior so the pilots have to be hanged in mid-air 
I can do without the standard. The stuka has fixed gear so it can stand on it's wheels. I think I can fix the prop. 

I'll make some pictures by daylight.


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## jjp_nl (Dec 29, 2011)

Is this the kit per chance? Must be from the late nineteen fifties or early sixties or something


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## Marcel (Dec 29, 2011)

jjp_nl said:


> Is this the kit per chance? Must be from the late nineteen fifties or early sixties or something


That's about right. Box is different though. Although that doesn't mean much.


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## vikingBerserker (Dec 29, 2011)

That is so cool! I believe 1/4 is equal to 1/48


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## Wayne Little (Dec 30, 2011)

Good on ya Marcel, look forward to seeing it...


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## Vic Balshaw (Dec 30, 2011)

What a great challenge and noble thought and the kit looks interesting. Good luck Marcel I think you will find many helpers here.


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## Thorlifter (Dec 30, 2011)

Good luck on the kit Marcel. The first thing I noticed on the box that JJP posted was the swastika was removed from the tail. Hmmm, they were already doing that back in the 50's-60's.


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## copcheck (Dec 30, 2011)

I'm here for moral support.

Good luck with the kit, sound like a noble cause and I hope it turns out well for you!

Jon


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## Marcel (Dec 30, 2011)

Thanks guys, I'll need it. And I'm going to need all the help I can get as I am a total noob in this building thing  
Thor, the swastica is missing indeed.
The scale is indeed 1:48 exactly.

I don't have a spray gun for painting, not sure if I'm going to buy one as I never used one of those. I also believe it to be quite expensive and as I don't know how long I will have this hobby, might not be worthwhile to buy for only one project. I believe one of my neighbours does paintspraying as a hobby, so I'll try and ask him or try something else (hand painting?). I believe I some parts should be painted before assembling, am I right? So I should decide quickly. 

See below som pictures, sorry for the bad quality, they were taken with my phone. Latere I'll try and make better pictures with my DSL, but it'll give you an impression. Notice the broken propellor blade. As the stand is gone, the engine will not do much. It's rusty anyway, so I doubt it would have worked.

I'll probably need all sorts of equipment. I now have a set of sharp knives and some glue.

My father-in-law took all of the parts out of the frame, not all of them neatly. I'll probably need some advice on how to repair some of that damage if possible.
The assembly doesn't look overly complicated. Some parts don't fit very well, so I probably start tonight to work on some rough edges and see if everything is complete or not.

I also have to think about what paintscheme I want to do. Desert seems nice, but looks complicated. I believe the germans used a simple dark-green/light-blue scheme when invading the NL, so maybe that could be a fitting scheme to try. Having said that, I have to determine what type of Stuka it is. I believe a J87B, am I right?


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## Wurger (Dec 30, 2011)

Looking really very nice and seems to be the B variant.

My first suggestion would be not to attach the electric motor. I don't think it is needed at all and might cause nothing but troubles. Especially with the balance of the model ( too heavy nose can try to set the model front down on it. )

Concerning the camo scheme you will need three clours RLM70, RLM71 for model tops and RLM65 for undersides. Additionally black one, some silver and white and RLM02 for cockpit interior. Depending on period of time the dive bomber was used at the RLM66 will be needed too.

For painting an airbrush isn't needed too. It is enough to purchase a couple of brushes of soble endings, no. 3, 2, 1, 00, 000. It would be nice if you bought some masking tape of Tamiya for instance.

Regarding tools.... some sandpaper of different grades will be welcome. I would suggest buying something like a nail file used by women usually. These are offered of different shapes and covered with sandpaper of different grades including covering for polishing.


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## Marcel (Jan 6, 2012)

Thanks Wojtek,

I'm planning on painting by hand. Could be fun. Haven't been to the city center yet to buy the paint. I want to have it before I start building. A friend of mine has some paint to do the smaller parts like the pilots, so I only buy the paint for the exterior. I'm now sanding the edges to make it fit better. I promise to post some pictures soon.


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## Wurger (Jan 6, 2012)

OK. please let me know if you need something....


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## Capt. Vick (Jan 6, 2012)

Marcel said:


> It's from an obscure manufacturer called Lindberg.



Not so obscure if you grew-up in the States my friend. Many an American modeler cut their teeth on Lindberg kits back in the day and they are still around today!


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## jjp_nl (Jan 6, 2012)

Once you get to that stage and are in need of a pair of swastika's to complete the kit in terms of decals drop me a line. I have a nice big sheet of Swastika's in 1/48 scale in all sorts and shapes and I'd be happy to help you out with a few so you can put them on the tail. 

While I'm at it, perhaps a word of caution on the decals in general. You mentioned the kit is indeed a very old one, and as far as decals goes...it shows..they look pretty shot to me. Best to try and work out if the decals are any good at all after all those years, and if not a 'new' set of (aftermarket) decals might be needed (prolly including swastika's as well) ( take a look at the Luchtvaart Hobbyshop for example, they might come in handy when you need to look for new decals) or perhaps appropriate measures need to be taken to prevent the decals from disintegrating at all once they touch water.


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## Wurger (Jan 6, 2012)

Capt. Vick said:


> Not so obscure if you grew-up in the States my friend. Many an American modeler cut their teeth on Lindberg kits back in the day and they are still around today!



A taki fajny, Amerykanski... 


I agree with the opinion above, These decals that came with the kit don't look good. Replacing with an aftermarket set will be really needed


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## Marcel (Jan 6, 2012)

jjp_nl said:


> Once you get to that stage and are in need of a pair of swastika's to complete the kit in terms of decals drop me a line. I have a nice big sheet of Swastika's in 1/48 scale in all sorts and shapes and I'd be happy to help you out with a few so you can put them on the tail.
> 
> While I'm at it, perhaps a word of caution on the decals in general. You mentioned the kit is indeed a very old one, and as far as decals goes...it shows..they look pretty shot to me. Best to try and work out if the decals are any good at all after all those years, and if not a 'new' set of (aftermarket) decals might be needed (prolly including swastika's as well) ( take a look at the Luchtvaart Hobbyshop for example, they might come in handy when you need to look for new decals) or perhaps appropriate measures need to be taken to prevent the decals from disintegrating at all once they touch water.


Thanks I'll remember that.

The decals also look colored with age, so I already thought of that. But I guess I'll worry about the decals if I ever come to that point  Let me start building first 

Wojtek, the shop here in Dordrecht didn't know the RLM70 and 71. He said they were old color numbers. Is there a way to convert them to new numbers?


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## Wurger (Jan 6, 2012)

If they said that it means they know nothing about LW paints and aren't helpful at all.

These RLM numbers are the German Air Ministry numbers mentioned or listed in all documents for painting Luftwaffe planes. I always use them or FS numbers beause different paint manufacturers use their own numbers and names. So...

Humbrol for RLM70 is 91 ( Matt Black Green ) and RLM71 is 30 ( Matt Dark Green ) 

Gunze Sang. RLM70 is H65 and H64 for RLM71

Testors enamels RLM70 - 2080 and RLM71 - 2081

Xtracolor RLM70 - 1023 and RLM71 - 1024

Lifecolour RLM70 - UA051 and RLM71 - UA052


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## Marcel (Jan 6, 2012)

That was quick Wojtek  With this kind of help, even I might be able to complete this mission satisfactory 

I already have Humbrol no 91, so I'll need to buy no. 30. Will be next week I'm afraid. Don't want to risk the weather again today.


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## Wurger (Jan 6, 2012)

Thank you Marcel. That's a pity these guys at the LHS weren't so quick. It would save you from going there again and again. Oh.. of course you need a paint for undersides. It was RLM65 Hellblau. The Humbrol equivalent is Humbrol no.65. A few guys suggest mixing with 30% of Humbrol 23 Duck Egg Blue. But I have used the H65 without that for the Airfix Bf 109E of 1/24 scle and it looked good.


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## Marcel (Jan 6, 2012)

Wurger said:


> Thank you Marcel. That's a pity these guys at the LHS weren't so quick. It would save you from going there again and again. Oh.. of course you need a paint for undersides. It was RLM65 Hellblau. The Humbrol equivalent is Humbrol no.65. A few guys suggest mixing with 30% of Humbrol 23 Duck Egg Blue. But I have used the H65 without that for the Airfix Bf 109E of 1/24 scle and it looked good.


Thanks Wojtek, we figured the RLM65, so this one I already got. I'm not goint to mix in my first attempt of modelling after 20 years, so it'll have to do.


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## Wurger (Jan 6, 2012)




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## Airframes (Jan 6, 2012)

Good work there Wojtek my friend. And yes Marcel, the Humbrol No. 65 is fine in this scale for the RLM65. When you get to the time for decals, I might have some spare Luftwaffe code letters - let me know and I'll check my files.


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## Marcel (Jan 7, 2012)

Okay, researching which ju87 I want to do. About 10 km from my house, A stuka crashed.
I./St.G.77 IV./LG1
No 5513
L1 HW
Pilot Unteroffizier W Bienk and Gefreiter Langer

Shot down by GA Brown, Spitfire N3027 on may 13th 1940. 

Have to find some pictures of StG 77 Stuka's.


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## Wurger (Jan 7, 2012)

Here you are a profile of Stuka B-1 of IV./LG1 coded L1+HU used over France 1940...







And one in 1939 coded L1+GE ...







and one of the I./St.G 77 , France 1940.






As you might have noted the L1 code was used for LG1 rather. The St.G 77 used different code.


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## Marcel (Jan 15, 2012)

Thanks for the profiles Wojtek. That squadron logo. Can I get that somewhere? And do you have the pattern on the wings as well?
I got the paint. Now started. First repaired the propeller. I found out that my Father-in-law made a mistake when building the propeller/engine unit. The propellor shaft sticks out too much, so it doesn't fit in the fuselage or else would be a big gap between the spinner and the body. He also forgot some parts, Something that should be fitted inside the spinner (called "bearing 4") is not inserted (see pic). He glued it all together, so I cannot repair it anymore. I'm wondering if I should saw off the propeller from the engine, throw away the engine and fix the propeller on the body with glue. It won't be able to turn then, but it'll look right, I guess .


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## Wurger (Jan 15, 2012)

As memory serves a such kind of models with these elo motors, has the spinner with the prop and the entire rest parts usually attached with a negative allowance. Just pressed on the motor shaft. Try to pull it off firstly.


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## Wurger (Jan 15, 2012)

The camo scheme was the standard RLM one for all Stuks bombers. Here you are examples... source the Internet.


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## Wurger (Jan 15, 2012)

Concerning the unit emblem... which one?


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## Wurger (Jan 15, 2012)

The emblem for the StG77 Staffel 






And the one for IV./LG1. However the background seems to be of a light blue colour.


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## Wurger (Jan 15, 2012)

Also check the link..

Stuka Geschwader Emblems by William Marshall


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## Marcel (Mar 9, 2012)

Thanks Wurger. Did not forget this one, but things are a little hectic last few weeks. Still want to start, and hopefully will soon.


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## Lucky13 (Mar 11, 2012)

Looking forward to see your work Marcel! 
Then, you'll be hooked!


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## Marcel (Apr 1, 2012)

Me too Jan,  But it happened, I finally started. Jippiieee! Took me a while but eventually got there.
First tried out the black on the inside. As there is no cockpit floor, the chairs will be suspended in mid-air. So I thought I should paint it black inside (humms a Rolling Stones tune). I also painted the prop, bombs and tires. BTW what's the best order to work in for the hull/wings? Assemble first and then paint or the other way around (showing my noobiness here). Well I decided to paint all the small stuff firs, bombs, bomb-rack, tires etc. Then I will glue the wings and hull together and start painting that.
I guess it won't become as live-real as some of you do, but I hope my father in law will appriciate it. Wish me luck.

Edit:
Oh one question, the prop spinner what color is that? Looks dark, but I guess it's not black? Could I do that with RLM70?
Edit2: Cellphone pictures, not very good but what can you do?


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## Lucky13 (Apr 1, 2012)

Looks like a good start Marcel! 
Think that the prop blades are blackgreen, can't remember the RLM number right now, but I'm sure that you'll be filled in soon...
Assemble and then paint the fuselage and wings etc...


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## Wurger (Apr 1, 2012)

Stuks spinners were of RLM70 usually.


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## Airframes (Apr 1, 2012)

Looking good so far Marcel.


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## VALENGO (Apr 4, 2012)

Many years ago I buyed a motorised Lindberg Ju87 in 1/48, and once it was completed I noted that the trailing edge of the inner segment of wings (the one closest to the airframe) was completely wrong: it was parallel to the leading edge instead having an angle. This mistake of Lindberg was (at least for me) unacceptable. Watch your model, perhaps it has the same error.
Cheers


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## Marcel (Apr 5, 2012)

Yup it's the same. The leading- and trailing edge are parallel. Not that it matters. I'll build it anyway as I want to suprise my father-in-law. 

Glued the fuselage and wings together. Inserted the chairs etc. I decided not to put the dolls in as I find them crude and ugly. Had to remove quite an amount of plastic to make it all fit. As I said it's not the best kit. I also saw off part of the proshaft to insert a part that my father-in-law forgot. It was needed in order to fit the prop properly. Next I will paint the fuselage, wings and the little pieces. Canopy will be a challenge. 

It's far from the maserpieces you guys make, but guess what: Lucky is right. I start to enjoy it. Takes the mind off the pressure at work. I might do another one when I'm finished.


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## Airframes (Apr 5, 2012)

Oh oh! Marcel has caught the bug! "Might do another one" normally leads to a whole room (or more!) of models!
But, it's great way to relax, _and_ have something to show for it, plus the satisfaction derived from a sense of achievement.
Looking forward to further progress my friend.


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## Wayne Little (Apr 6, 2012)

Good stuff Marcel....


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## VALENGO (Apr 8, 2012)

Marcel said:


> Yup it's the same. The leading- and trailing edge are parallel. Not that it matters. I'll build it anyway as I want to suprise my father-in-law..


The smile of an old man well worth it!. Good luck with your model!


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## Marcel (Apr 11, 2012)

Started painting the bottom. Probably needs another layer


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## rochie (Apr 11, 2012)

coming along nicely Marcel


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## Marcel (Apr 11, 2012)

rochie said:


> coming along nicely Marcel


Yeah, I forgot how bad these plastics are to paint. Needs quite a lot of layes before it's properly covered.


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## Lucky13 (Apr 11, 2012)

Agree, coming along just fine Marcel!


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## Aaron Brooks Wolters (Apr 11, 2012)

The uneven covering may help in making it look somewhat weathered. Just an idea. Looking great to Marcel!


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## Airframes (Apr 11, 2012)

Looks good so far Marcel. 
Even with enamel paints, dark coloured plastic will need at least two coats of a light coloured paint, and most likely more if using acrylics. If the plastic is dark in colour, and particularly if shiny, then a rub over with a cloth dampened with thinners will help. After the thinners has evaporated, then painting can commence. It's also a good idea to give a thin primer coat first in these instances, using a light grey paint.


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## Marcel (Apr 16, 2012)

Painting going well. Have to start thinking about decals. Are the for sale separately? Or shall I try these old ones?


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## Airframes (Apr 16, 2012)

There should be after market decals available Marcel, from outlets such as Hannant's. But, no harm in trying the kit decals first; if possible, give them a coat of clear varnish first, and allow this to set for around 12 hours or more, before use.


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## Marcel (Apr 16, 2012)

Okay thanks Terry. Don't have clear varnish yet. How important is that?
And another question: the paint I use is mat. So I guess the shiny decals will stick out like blood on a white shirt. Any tricks to make this less so?

btw. I guess I won't try to emulate an existing Stuka. It'll be too ambitious for my skills  I'll be happy if it looks somehow decent  Which of course doesn't mean that I will not try to get the camo as accurate as possible.

And for the interested here some pics:


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## Airframes (Apr 16, 2012)

The clear varnish over the decals will help to prevent them breaking up when used, which can happen with old decals. That said, I rarely have a problem with old decals, as the quality of the material is probably better than today!
It's preferable to apply decals to a gloss surface, to prevent the effect of 'silvering', where the carrier film shows up as a greyish silver surround to the decal. So a coat of gloss clear varnish to the model, allowed to fully dry, will help.
After applying the decals, allowing them to set overnight or for at least 12 hours, the model can be cleaned of any decal adhesive residue, and then given a clear coat to seal the decals and provide the required finish. In the case of Luftwaffe aircraft from this period, this would be semi-matt.


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## Gnomey (Apr 16, 2012)

Coming along nicely Marcel!


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## Lucky13 (Apr 16, 2012)

Looking good mate!


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## Crimea_River (Apr 16, 2012)

Doin' good. Nice job on the canopy frames.


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## Marcel (Apr 17, 2012)

Thanks guys. 
@Terry: thanks I guess I'll have to buy some vernis tomorrow.

Anyway still have to do the darker green for cammo. Then the decals'll have to wait until after my trip to Boston.


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## Lucky13 (Apr 17, 2012)

When there, don't mention the tea party!


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## Airframes (Apr 17, 2012)

Or ask them if we can have our tea back .....


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## Marcel (Apr 19, 2012)

I'll drink some tea to your health there then 
Found out that the ruder is not correct as there's too much room between it and the fuselage. I already glued it so it cannot be helped anymore. Furthermore I made the mistake to attach the tailwheel which naturally broke off. Did I say I was a noob? 
Anyway started the darker cammo. And see below the result so far. Still have to do a lot and only have so much time so the rest will have to wait:


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## Wurger (Apr 19, 2012)

Looking good Marcel. However these camo spots were on the fuselage as well. Also I would sugest using strips of masking tape for painting these geometric spots. It'll make spot edges going straight.


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## Crimea_River (Apr 19, 2012)

Doin' alright there Marcel.


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## Marcel (Apr 20, 2012)

Wurger said:


> Looking good Marcel. However these camo spots were on the fuselage as well. Also I would sugest using strips of masking tape for painting these geometric spots. It'll make spot edges going straight.


 
I know Wojtek, but I didn't get that far yet. If you look closely you'll see that even these spots are not all finished. They are painted with the help of tape, hence the nice straight edges that you see.


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## Wayne Little (Apr 20, 2012)

Looking good!


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## Airframes (Apr 20, 2012)

Sure is. Good work, especially for a 'first timer'.


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## mikewint (Apr 20, 2012)

Terry, been watching this thread, no one has mentioned Future (varnish?) or Microset for the decals. Especially the microset which made my decals look 1000% better.
I'm also an Acrylic painter so once done 50-50 future and flat acrylic clear sprayed over the entire model


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## Airframes (Apr 20, 2012)

I mentioned gloss clear coat before decals, and semi-matt after, in an earlier post Mike, but didn't mention Future.


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## Marcel (Apr 20, 2012)

Thanks guys. I see that I make mistakes in details, but the model itself is also not very accurate. Well I just make the best I can I guess. 
Future or Microset varnish eh? Thanks I'll look that up. 

Has anyone details of the right frontside of the fuselage? I've been using Wojtek's pictures earlier in the thread as reference and they have been a great help, but that part is not very clear. I mean from the side of the cockpit and the cowling. The side of the cockpit is partly covered by the wing and the front side is a bit fussy in my perception. No hurry as I will be in the US for a week and won't be able to work on this during that time.


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## Rogi (Apr 20, 2012)

Future Floor Wax, In some areas its Pledge With Future and then it has like 70 names in other countries. Theres a site on the web if you search how to use Future Floor Wax it should be among the first, I'll pm you the name of the site and url.

From that site it says:

Netherlands - In superstore's like Edah and C-1000. Also look in "Super de Boer" and 'Albert Heijn' which is locally referred to as 'AH'. 

Where you can find future in NL.  

Hope that helps, let me know if you can't find it


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## Airframes (Apr 20, 2012)

I'll see what I can find in the way of profiles and pics showing what you want Marcel. 
BTW, the Micro Sol and Micro Set are decal solutions, to help the decals conform and set without showing 'silvering'. Personally, I only use the 'Sol', as I think they could very well both be more or less the same chemical, which is rather like the old Kodak 'Photoflo' judging by the smell.


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## mikewint (Apr 20, 2012)

Marcel, The microsol or -set are solutions that somewhat dislove the decal which then TOTALLY conforms to the models surface looking like it was painted on rather than just a decal. Future is an acrylic "paint" and is clear. It's great on canopys making them look like glass. It's somewhat tedious but WELL worth the effort: Paint the model, use a sharp pencil to enhance panel, rivits, rudder/aleiron joints, cover entire model with Future, Microsol spot where decal is going, place decal, paint decal with -sol or -set, entire model with 50-50 mixture of Future and matte-clear. My decals always looked like cr*p until the great guys on this site clued me into this procedure. Next is weathering the model which is a true art form


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## Marcel (Apr 21, 2012)

Okay, an overview so far. Propeller and canopy are not glued on, yet. Tomorrow I'm on the plane to the USA, so the rest will have to wait for a week. A pitty, just got the hang of it. It's quite addictive.


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## Wurger (Apr 21, 2012)

Marcel said:


> I know Wojtek, but I didn't get that far yet. If you look closely you'll see that even these spots are not all finished. They are painted with the help of tape, hence the nice straight edges that you see.



I see.


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## Lucky13 (Apr 21, 2012)

Sure looking alot better than my 'first'!  Doing great Marcel and have a safe trip!


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## Marcel (Apr 22, 2012)

Lucky13 said:


> When there, don't mention the tea party!


 


Airframes said:


> Or ask them if we can have our tea back .....


Drank some tea here in Boston, English blend. Tasted good


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## Airframes (Apr 23, 2012)

Tell them the bill is being sent !


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## mikewint (Apr 24, 2012)

You Englishers tried to collect once before, haven't you leared your lesson yet?


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## Marcel (Apr 29, 2012)

Okay I survived the USA and am home safely. Still feel a little fussy because of jetlag and a bad cold that I got in Boston. I had a 'culture shock' when visiting an NBA game, Boston Celtics vs Milwaukee Bucks. Didn't folow the game that much, but enjoyed watching the audience and the show. I don't mean this in a bad way, but it was quite different from Dutch sport events, I can tell you that. And Terry, I photographed one of the ships at the Teaparty museum. I wanted to send you some "Boston Teaparty tea" which was actually sold in the shops, but did not know how to send it, sorry.

Anyway. thanks to Rogi I've been reading a nice website about the use of future and I googled myself somewhat, too. It appears that future is sold in the NL as "Parket Plus". On a Dutch Forum I read that the old verion looked fine, but they improved the formula and now it doesn't work anymore. I'm not sure what to try.


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## Airframes (Apr 29, 2012)

Just managed to get a bottle of the new (UK) formula which, although it looks different, apparently works OK. I haven't tried it as yet, but will be doing so in the next couple of days - so fingers crossed.


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## jjp_nl (Apr 29, 2012)

@ Marcel, 

Future-like products are still somewhat out there in Dutch supermarkts, but it's no longer sold as 'Parket Plus' They mess around with the formula and launch it every so many months under a new name. It used to be 'future' like everywhere elese except under a different brand/name, but that no longer the case. Those newer formula's tend to work a little bit differently indeed, but with a little practise and trial-and-error you still can lay down a perfectly good sturdy gloss coat, at least sufficiently glossy to place decals in a orderly manner, and strong enough to protect your paint work. As I happen to have an uncle who travels to the US from time to time for business I hope to be able to get him to pick up a bottle of future from the US for me some time to see how that might work, but to my experience it can be done perfectly good with products available here in The Netherlands.

Either way, I'll reffer to my reply on the PM for further details on what I use.

cheers


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## Marcel (Apr 30, 2012)

Okay, I bought some "Pledge Extra Protection wax vloer" after recommendation by jjp_nl (thanks) There seems to be to versions of it, one is 10ct more expensive, but the bottles were so like eachother that I didn't see the difference, so as a real Dutchman I bought the cheapes one 
I tried it this morning on some plastic that I painted with one of my matt paints and it looked good, so I tried it on the model as well. It's drying now so I keep my fingers crossed. I'm a bit in a hurry now as Sunday is the my father-in-law's birthday. Would be nice if I could present it to him then. But quality first so I will try not to rush it too much. If the decals won't work then it'll become a later date anyway.


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## Marcel (May 2, 2012)

The "Pledge Extra Protection wax vloer" worked perfectly. A pitty Ithe decals were slightly green in the transparant parts which minimised the effect. Now I don't have silvering, but greening around the images  But I decided to use the original ones, keeping tho model as close to the original intent as possible. But the aircraft has a nice slightly shiny appearance du to the wax. I might do another 1:48 Stuka next time as I have the paint for it already, but then I want to do a better kit and try to make it more historic accurate. Although I think I did the cammo pretty well.

Anyway, here is the result, still has to dry a little bit. I'm right on time as this weekend, my father-in-law will have his birthday. I'm quite proud of myself actually. I think I made it as good as I could with the means I had. But of course it could be better (other decals would have made the difference) but that must wait untill next time. Thank you all for your support.


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## Gnomey (May 2, 2012)

Nicely done Marcel!


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## jjp_nl (May 2, 2012)

Sure looks decent for a first build . As far as silvering and decals goes, the gloss coat seems to have done the job. 

What can say about the decals themselfs, not even the best gloss coat can fix shot decals. The carrier film of the decals is severely yellowed (this happens as time goes by and there is little you can do about it really) What sometimes reduces this is to tape them to a window in the sunshine for a few days to kind of sun-bleach them. This sometimes reduces the yellowing a little bit, but in all honesty I probably would have tried to get my hands on some after market decals or piece something together from the spares box since they also appear to be out of register in a big way (the fuselage crosses look particularly funky). Also, you could have tried to cut off some of the excess carrier film. This would lead to a little extra work in terms of placing the decals, but the yellow-greenish effect would not nearly be as visible.

But oh well, one step at a time and you'll see improvement on your next build, so keep it going


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## Airframes (May 2, 2012)

Well done Marcel - but careful, I think you might have caught the 'modelling bug'!!


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## Marcel (May 3, 2012)

your fault, guys. Your help made it so pleasant I want to do some more. So I'll charge the next kit on your account


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## Vic Balshaw (May 3, 2012)

Nicely done Marcel and glad the new solution worked. We used to have a product called 'One Go' but this also diapered off the market some time ago. It is supposed to be coming back midyear but under what name…………………..will have to do some experimenting as well as and when the new product arrives.


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## Wayne Little (May 4, 2012)

good on ya Marcel, great effort mate!


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## Marcel (May 4, 2012)

Wayne Little said:


> good on ya Marcel, great effort mate!


Thanks Wayne.
I'm planning to do another Stuka later this year, after all I already have most of the stuff that I need. I want to do a proper model, with a real cockpit and such. But first let's see what the ol' man will say about it. I'll give it to him on Sunday, at least If Inget better from this nasty flu.


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## Lucky13 (May 4, 2012)

Niiiice work Marcel! Well done!


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## Rogi (May 4, 2012)

Ooops :S Sorry I completley forgot that they call it Pledge here too  Theres a lemon one (thats like 10-40 cents more expensive) and then theres the cheaper one that does not smell like lemon and is called Pledge Floor Wax with Future. I never liked my models smelling like lemon so I usually get the cheaper one too 

I'm so happy the model worked out and you were able to find the Pledge  *dances* 

Great job on her, you should do a....Bf-110 Next, or 109 

P.S. Were you like my uncle from Austria when you visited the NBA game (he visited a NHL game with me here in Canada when he came for a visit) he said something along the lines of "Ok, so when is the fight starting and is it ok that we are wearing home team colors next to the visiting crowd?" He was shocked that there were no fan fighting during or after the match, even if our home team lost.  

I couldn't beleive that they fight it out in soccer events in Europe but my Uncle said it was a sure thing if two rivals were playing each other. Am I right on, or am I way off?


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## Marcel (May 5, 2012)

I also bought the cheap one. Worked great. Good idea about the bf109 or 110 though, I'll consider it, but I first want to do another Stuka. 

Ot: yes it's true they fight over soccer matches here. A few years back, fans of the two big rivals here, Ajax and Fijenoord agreed on meeting eachother in a field and have a go at it. At least one guy died. Pretty stupid eh?


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## Lucky13 (May 5, 2012)

You're one of us now Marcel, listen to them voices in your head (us) and join the dark side!


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## Rogi (May 5, 2012)

Yeah its kinda silly the fighting but our stadiums are kinda made to prevent fighting and if a fan starts something they throw them out imedietly, so you rarely see any fighting with the fans, also most of the big baners arn't allowed in the stadium unless its down at the first row section where they paid big money and would be peaved if they got kicked out. 

We have had streakers, but same thing.

In football I can kind of understand the fan fighting (love for ones team etc) but I don't understand the getting together at a pre-arranged times and beating each other, if you can co-ordinate that well with the other teams' fans then you can sit together or go to the local pub/restaurent together too and have a good laugh. Its cooler when your with a friend whos team just lost and your just sitting at the pub and enjoying the rest of the night. Instead of enjoying the rest of the night with "Buba" in jail :S


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## Marcel (Jan 2, 2013)

Okay, finally bought a new Stuka. After Lucky's demand of siggies I needed another hobby  The model I bought is the airfix 1:48 stuka b2. Seems to be more complicated than the other above. Now need to do a cockpit as well. Hope my paint is still usable.


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## Marcel (Jan 2, 2013)

Okay guys, looking at the kit now and indeed it's slightly more complicated. Any ideas on what colors forto use for the cockpit? The kit also comes with acolorscheme for 5Staffel/Stukageschwader 2 Immelman, showing a red-white-green spinner on the prop. Is this correct?


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## Marcel (Jan 2, 2013)

Okay, quick succesion of posts, but I just found out this kit has missing parts. A part of the wheel is missing, so I stop already before I even started. Someone knows if you can get these missing parts or do I have to return the kit?


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## meatloaf109 (Jan 2, 2013)

According to those who know, Airfix is great about replacing missing parts. As for the cockpit colour, you can't go wrong with RLM66!


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## Wurger (Jan 2, 2013)

Yes... I think you should let know the Airfix about these missing parts. But which is the missing part of the wheel?

As far as the colour of the cockpit interior for the Ju 87B is concerned the RLM02 was used untill 1941 then it was RLM66. But now we know that the RLM66 appeared there much earlier, about the Summer of 1940. And you can follow this colour.


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## Airframes (Jan 2, 2013)

Hi Marcel. The Ju87B was still painted in RLM02 in the cockpit, with a RLM66 instrument panel and radios. As for missing parts, have a look in the box, as there should be a small slip of paper with parts request details, and a return address. If it's not there, write to Hornby Hobbies Ltd., Margate, Kent CT9 4JX, England, UK.
Mark the top of the letter 'Airfix - missing parts', and include details of the kit name and number, the part(s) and the part number(s), stating that these parts are missing. Check the rest of the kit parts and decals for any missing or damaged items first, and include any in the letter.
This can also be done by e-mail, but I don't have the full e-mail address to hand at the moment - can get it if you need it.
You should receive replacement parts, free of charge, within a week or two.


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## Marcel (Jan 2, 2013)

Hi guys, thanks. As far as I can see it only no 64 is missing. I'll try to contact Airfix. Didn't see a form in the kit, but a letter will do I guess.


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## Wurger (Jan 2, 2013)

Marcel....is that 1/72 scale kit?


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## Marcel (Jan 3, 2013)

No it says 1:48


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## Marcel (Jan 3, 2013)

Okay, I ordered the missing parts. 
Another question: 
Does anyone have a convertion table for rlm colors to Humbrol? I need to know which colour to buy for the interior. 

And does anyone have a clue if the spinners of 5 Staffel/Stukageschwader 2 had red spinners?

Edit:
I found the following numbers, can anyone confirm this?
RLM02: Humbrol 141
RLM66: Humbrol 32


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## Wurger (Jan 3, 2013)

RLM66 - FS36081 - Humbrol67, Gunze H416, Aeromaster 1022, Testors/ModelMaster 2079, Lifecolor UA133

RLM02 - FS36165 - Humbrol84, Gunze H70, Aeromaster 1010, Testors/ModelMaster 2071, Lifecolor UA071

As far as the spinner is concerned.... check the link... http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/aircraft-requests/5-stg2-ju-87-b-2-a-30610.html


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## Crimea_River (Jan 3, 2013)

I've used this before but can not vouch for the Humbrol equivalents. Urban's Color Reference Charts - Part I.

Also go here: http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/painting-questions-tutorials-guidebooks/paint-conversion-chart-16498.html


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## Wurger (Jan 3, 2013)

According to FalkeEins set ( used by him ) RLM66 - Humbrol 67 that perfect matches. For the RLM02 - Humbrol 78 with some of grey colour. However according to him the colour is a bit too light and too green. I agree with him on that. But I prefere the Humbrol 84. 

As far as the Hu141.... It can be used. But it is a little bit too light.

RLM02










Hu141



Hu84




Hu78







Hu32 is a good equivalent of FS 36081. So you can use this one too.






Hu32



Hu67


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## Marcel (Jan 3, 2013)

Thanks Wojtek, you're the best  So 67 and 84 it is. 
Good thread on the spinner. Nice to see that Karl also build this kit. I think I'll do the same and only use the red band.


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## Wurger (Jan 3, 2013)

You'r welcome.


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## Marcel (Jan 4, 2013)

Well underway, but just noticed airfix is also politcal correct and doesn't supply swastika's. Wasn't there anyone earlier in this thread offering 1/48 swasika's for a Stuka? 8)


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## Airframes (Jan 4, 2013)

I think I can possibly help there Marcel, I'll check my spare decals and let you know. But please remind me, as I may forget - it's the fault of that Alzheimer's Ale served in the pub!


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## Marcel (Jan 5, 2013)

Thanks Terry, I'll definately remind you. I have that Alzeheimers Ale here as well, the Belgian kind which is the best as you know for forgetting everything. I would like to share with you if it wasn't for that damn Northsea between us.


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## Wurger (Jan 5, 2013)

Alzeheimer Ale... I was sure you were talking about the German who likes hidding of our items from us.


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## Airframes (Jan 5, 2013)

No, that's Leutnant Vairsitgon!
Got a couple of swastikas for you Marcel, I'll get them in the mail early next week, when I go to the Post Office with other stuff.


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## Marcel (Jan 6, 2013)

Guys, need alittle help here. I have no idea how to mask so you can make a red band on the spinner like shown below. 





Edit: been trying for the last hour to cut little strips of maskingtape, around 2 mm thick and apply in length from tip to the edge of the ring. So the 2mm sides of all these strips form the edge of the ring. Realy tedious work and the result is less than satisfactory. It appears to be very tricky to follow the curve, so the ring appeares edgy, with little corners in it and not all smooth. Seems like this is a little too much for my skills.


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## Wurger (Jan 6, 2013)

Marcel... paint the spinner red. Then cut off two very narrow (thin) strips of masking tape. Use them for masking top and bottom edges of the red strip. Then mask the red area between these two thin strips. You can do that with another wider strip of masking tape or Humbrol Maskol for instance. And then paint the entire spinner with RLM70. Also you can cut one strip of the masking tape and mask the red area with one strip only.


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## Marcel (Jan 6, 2013)

Thanks Wojtek seems to be more doable, although I have problems getting the straight masking strips into a curve. How narrow should the strips be? A few millimeter?


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## Marcel (Feb 14, 2013)

Slightly annoyed, did not hear anything from airfix about the missing wheel...


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## Airframes (Feb 14, 2013)

Give them another reminder Marcel. They're normally very good in replacing parts etc, although on one occasion I had to wait about three months for a part for an out of production kit.


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## Marcel (Feb 24, 2013)

I got the missing part. 

Started to build again. See below my progress. I found that despite it's flaws, the lindy air model actually was of better quality. This model doesn't fit as well. The band on the prop was quite difficult for me, but seems good enough.


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## Airframes (Feb 25, 2013)

Looking good so far Marcel. The Airfix moulds date back to around 1980, and have seen a lot of use, whereas the old Lindbergh kit, being a 'simpler' mould, with less use, will have possible advantages in fit today.
Sand back those seams and you should have a perfect fuselage joint.


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## Wurger (Feb 25, 2013)

With Terry.


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## Gnomey (Feb 25, 2013)

Coming along nicely so for Marcel!


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## Marcel (Mar 9, 2013)

Not as much a modeller as you guys (it's my 2nd model in 20 years I think), but I wanted to show the progress. It's slow but steady. Nowhere near your quality, but I don't mind


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## Airframes (Mar 9, 2013)

You're doing OK Marcel, it's not bad at all.


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## rochie (Mar 9, 2013)

not bad at all Marcel


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## meatloaf109 (Mar 9, 2013)

I don't see anything wrong with it. We all started somewhere.
One of my first was a Stuka, yours looks better than that one, for sure!


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## fubar57 (Mar 9, 2013)

Not to shabby Marcel and the ring on the prop hub is a pain for many of us. Also, 1.99 seems to be a reasonable price for Paas Haas.

Geo


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## Marcel (Jun 8, 2013)

Hi guys, this project has been sitting on my desk taunting me for weeks. Guess it is time to pick it up again. One thing that puzzles me. The drawings show that the crosses go over the diving breaks. I don't see how you do that and don't even know if it is correct. With the first stuka, I just sticked them under the diveing breaks. Any advice on that?


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## Hotntot (Jun 8, 2013)

Marcel, it looks like they go over the diving breaks. Here's a shot I got from Hyperscale.com in the gallery section. 






Nice underside finish on this one too:






++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Hyperscale gallery web page:-

HyperScale Features Galleries Contents


++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


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## Marcel (Jun 8, 2013)

Thanks!

Now how do I do that? Do I have to cut the decals or paint it myself? I'm still very much a noob, so it must not be too difficult


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## Airframes (Jun 8, 2013)

On the real thing, they were painted on the wing, with the dive brakes also having that area of the cross painted too, so that when the brakes were deployed, the full cross would still be visible on the wing. A decal softener such as Micro Sol might get the decal to conform over the brakes, otherwise, if the brakes are separate parts, apply the crosses first, then fit the brakes, and paint in the small area of the cross on them, using the decals as a guide.


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## Marcel (Jun 27, 2013)

Long time ago since I updated this. Have been busy with other projects, not the least 2 bands and a hobby as aircraft photographer. But I'm back on track. Just a picture of where I stand now. Thanks to Terry for the swastica's.


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## Wurger (Jun 27, 2013)




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## B-17engineer (Jun 27, 2013)

Looks great !


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## Lucky13 (Jun 27, 2013)

Totally agree!


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## Gnomey (Jun 27, 2013)

Coming along nicely Marcel!


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## Marcel (Jul 10, 2013)

Has been some time, but I finally finished this one. I started in Januari, build most of it rather quick. Then pace slowed down for a couple of months because of traveling and work. Thanks to you guys for the encouragements and especially Terry for his generous gift of the swastica's, which was missing from this kit for some politically correct reason I suppose.


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## Wurger (Jul 10, 2013)

Well done.  The letter code is a little bit moved down at its front. But generally the model looks nice.


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## Airframes (Jul 10, 2013)

Well done Marcel. Considering it's your first model in many years, it's a more than credible result.


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## B-17engineer (Jul 10, 2013)

Great work!


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## Lucky13 (Jul 13, 2013)

Come on! What's keeping you!? On to next one!  

Looks great Marcel!


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## rochie (Jul 13, 2013)

very nice Marcel


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## Wayne Little (Jul 14, 2013)

Not too shabby at all, good on ya Marcel.


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## Gnomey (Jul 21, 2013)

Nicely done Marcel!


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