# Starting out buying old fire arms



## MacArther (Feb 4, 2008)

Ok, I'm just starting to get into old firearms of say the WW2 vintage or look (i.e. Mosin, Kar, etc.). Before I go on a shopping spree, I'd like some sage words of advice from all of you, as well as some questions on loading and what not. First, what is the average older wooden stock (mosin, kar, garand, springfield, etc.) going to run me up front when I buy it? I'm not looking for a collector's item, or something to show off, just a good old fashioned rifle that will work correctly. Second, how proficient will I have to be with calibers in order to use the rifle correctly? For instance, I keep hearing about 8x57mm, but the only rifle I know that used something similar was 7.92mm German, are they compatible? Third, where would be the best place to get the rifle, from a sporting goods store, Wal-Mart :shudder:, or online? Next, what would be a good starter rifle (bolt/gas) of the time frame I indicated? And finally (and somewhat out of order), how long does it take to get a shooting permit on average? Keep your eyes on this post if you can, because I'm sure I'll come up with new questions to fire off (pun intended).


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## comiso90 (Feb 4, 2008)

A few years back, I remember seeing Japanese WW2 rifles and British Einfields in Big 5 sporting goods!

I like looking for that kind of stuff at gun shows


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## ccheese (Feb 4, 2008)

Before you go off half cocked  I would check with your local laws
about what you can have and what you can't . For some items you may
have to be registered with the ATF as a collector. The fee for this is quite
high. There may be local laws about what you can own and what you can't.

The state of Maryland has some strange firearms laws. If you own a "war
weapon" it must be rendered useless by plugging the barrrel.

So before you go buying stuff, make sure you can legally keep it.

Charles


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## Njaco (Feb 4, 2008)

New Jersey is even worse when it comes to gun laws.


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## Soren (Feb 4, 2008)

MacArther,

The 7.92x57 JS is the same as the 8x57 JS, it's just called the 8x57 JS to keep it short. The Germans always refered to it as the 7.92x57mm JS (IS).

Now remember that 7.92x57 JS ammunition is for a different type action than the older 7.92x57mm JRS which is meant for 1888 rifles, the older cartridge being a rimmed one (Hence J*R*S). The modern 7.92x57mm JS is the type fired by the K98k and all other German Mauser 98's.

So in short be sure not to put JS ammunition in a 1888 Mauser as it isn't built to cope with such a high pressure round.

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## Thorlifter (Feb 4, 2008)

Just yesterday I was at my father-in-laws shooting his AR-15, SKS, and AK-47. The AR-15 and AK-47 have been modified to go full auto (VERY illegal). Man, that AR is a sweet rifle, but I believe at gun shows they are going for about $1400 (give or take a couple hundred). About 10 years ago, you could get SKS's for $79 and AK's for $99. Not sure of the price right now. The AK is pretty fun to shoot too.

But like Charles said, make sure of your local laws first. Ignorance is not an excuse.


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## joy17782 (Feb 7, 2008)

ok, i have a few the mauser is not for the faint,ok the springfield is a good learner, along with the lee enfield, the riussian guns there good and very strong, i also have a m-1 and a m-14 but if you want collector grade look at the serial # thats the most important thing and with the german mauser try too get original german mauser , mine has matching serial # and was made in 1943 at wurtsburg it has the stamp in all the right places, but if you want a good shooter not much cash and easy fireing get a russian rifle there sooo coool !!!!! and bolt action is the way too go dont need fed papers on them and alway go too gun shows you can buy private and no paperwork for all the fed loveing gun haters , remember guns dont kill people people do so bee safe ok

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## Hansie Bloeckmann (Jan 27, 2018)

joy17782 said:


> ok, i have a few the mauser is not for the faint,ok the springfield is a good learner, along with the lee enfield, the riussian guns there good and very strong, i also have a m-1 and a m-14 but if you want collector grade look at the serial # thats the most important thing and with the german mauser try too get original german mauser , mine has matching serial # and was made in 1943 at wurtsburg it has the stamp in all the right places, but if you want a good shooter not much cash and easy fireing get a russian rifle there sooo coool !!!!! and bolt action is the way too go dont need fed papers on them and alway go too gun shows you can buy private and no paperwork for all the fed loveing gun haters , remember guns dont kill people people do so bee safe ok


_I agree that a bolt-action mil surp. rifle is the best way to go, for "openers" but I would be careful at gun shows with the "buying private" concept. I live in a very gun-unfriendly State, especially with handguns- and "evil black rifles". I would only buy a used military Bolt action rifle from a FFL licensed deader, who will run the NICS check on you, and give you a receipt detailing the serial number of the rifle you buy, and put his FFL license number on same. Why? Because some stolen guns get into gun shows, not just handguns either, and this is your only legal protection against owning a stolen weapon. And you are a honest citizen, I can tell by reading your thread, asking for advice- it's the 10 per centers who look to buy w/o background checking at gun shows. 

I would stay with the USA mfg. Springfield 1903 or the 1903-A3-- Springfield Armory or in case of the 1903-A3, Remington or Springfield Armory or Winchester mfg. I recommend the 1903-A3 for several reasons: (1)No worry about serial number and "double heat concerns as with early 1903's- (2) Better rear sight configuration, IMO.

Before you buy, tell the seller you want a gunsmith to check the bore, chamber and run a head spacing "Go-No Go" gauge on the chamber- if the seller balks, pass him up and look elsewhere. Why the 1903-- same basic controlled feeding, fool-proof 3 way safety , bolt release, bolt action as the great Mauser K98, but in an American caliber, easy to get ammo. for it yet today. 

A word of caution on ammo- when the Mauser K98 and the Springfield 1903 came out (in 1898 and 1903, respectively)ammo and powder and primers were different than today's factory loadings-- Military ball ammo is way different than commercial hunting loads, either in 7.92x57mm or .30-06, that's why the fee a good gunsmith who specializes in these weapons in needed to quide you- O/W you can waste a lot of $ on junk and older ammo-and never end up with an accurate and reliable shoulder weapon. Hansie_


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## DerAdlerIstGelandet (Jan 27, 2018)

I have no problem getting Mauser ammo. Great to shoot too. Always leaves a nice imprint of the buttstock in my shoulder.

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## Hansie Bloeckmann (Jan 27, 2018)

DerAdlerIstGelandet said:


> I have no problem getting Mauser ammo. Great to shoot too. Always leaves a nice imprint of the buttstock in my shoulder.


Military shoulder arms were never stocked with the view towards reducing felt recoil. Is your K98 a WW1 era, or a later WW2 era. The Waffenampt markings are the key to that.


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## Hansie Bloeckmann (Jan 27, 2018)

Soren said:


> MacArther,
> 
> The 7.92x57 JS is the same as the 8x57 JS, it's just called the 8x57 JS to keep it short. The Germans always refered to it as the 7.92x57mm JS (IS).
> 
> ...


You will also have feeding problems if you use the older issue JRS rimmed 7.92x57 in a Mauser K-98, as the rounds will NOT feed from the box magazine up into the chamber- the claw extractor may not grasp the rimmed edge of the cartridge and extract it properly, If you are not sure as to what ammo you have a for a Mauser BA rifle, check with a gunsmith and take his advice.


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## DerAdlerIstGelandet (Jan 27, 2018)

Hansie Bloeckmann said:


> Military shoulder arms were never stocked with the view towards reducing felt recoil. Is your K98 a WW1 era, or a later WW2 era. The Waffenampt markings are the key to that.



At the moment I only have a prewar Czech built one.

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