Maglar

Corey, the Future on the clear plastic does a couple of things:

1) It tned to sparkle up the glazing a bit, making it look shinier
2) Any small scratches or defects could be made less obvious
3) It reduces the chances of the clear part fogging if you glue it to the fuslege with CA glue.

Sounds good. Play around on paper, to scale, for as long as it takes, before cutting any board. It's always easy to make the board smaller if required - but impossible to make it bigger if already cut!!
Cheers,
T.

That's the idea mate! Same as I did with the base for the Boston. Only about a third of the approach track is showing, and just a small section of the 'Frying Pan' dispersal, otherwise the base would have been more than twice that size. It's also at a Medium Bomber base, where the dispersals and tracks weren't as big. BTW. do you mean the dispersal and track when you say 'runway'? Just gets a little confusing, as the runway itsels is huge, and could be more than half a mile distant!
T.

Hey mate , only the scratches on the ladders don't quite look right, should mainly be along the horizontal edges where you put your feet and maybe a little less along the vertical edges, the rest is good.

Ohh you get lucky once in a while. Other then the nose art though in just the basic looking Ive done Im not sure if we will find a picture of the whole aircraft. Time will tell, the co pilot was kind of an interesting read.

Hi Cory,

I will take a look and see what I can find. I think Ive seen a picture of this B-24 but not sure where. Will see what I can find.

All the best
Paul

Its always good to have friends.

Hi Mags, only just spotted ypur message. The interior colours were different between Grumman - built and General Motors - built aircraft, but if you mean the faired area which also forms the pilots head rest, then yes , Interior Green. Don't worry about the rest of the colours, as in this scale they can't be seen anyway, and the rear cockpit on the kit is all wrong as well. Not your fault, it's the kit, but again, don't worry, as once the canopy is in place it won't be noticed.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Terry.

No worries mate , I was asking someone the same question not too along ago

28th Febuary

Heres a link with some info

http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/4-heavy-hitters/bombers-heavy-hitters-group-build-guidelines-21383.html

:)

Well, as it was used more for bombing than torpedo operations, I suppose that yes, it would fit the requirements for the Bombers/ heavy Hitters GB.

Haven't a clue mate! I use enamels, and don't have a pressure gauge on my compressor, so just go by experience and 'feel'. I've only used acrylics twice. Tamiya I thought were fair to crap, even though many swear by them, and Vallejo was brilliant. On the Vallejo paints, which can be thinned with water, I ran at around 60/40, water/paint, and controlled the pressure by the trigger and distance.
All I can suggest is to do some tests, starting at a 50/50 thinning ratio, and probably around 15 psi. For mottle, especially in this small scale, you'll need a low pressure and very precise control, to avoid splatter and/or spread, and it'll take time to complete, building up slowly.

Hi Corey, RLM76 is a light grey blue colour, sometimes called hellgrau, in German, although the correct name was Weissblau. If you look at the grey background to the forum pages, it's quite near to that colour, with a hint of blue. It's one of those colours that can look much lighter when covering a large area, almost white, but if you look at some of the models Wayne has done, or even my Bf110 or the Zero in German markings, that's RLM76. It was the standard underside colour from early 1941 on all fighters. In 1/72nd scale, make it a touch lighter, and don't worry too much about it not being absolutely spot on, as there were variations, and any mottle altered the appearance anyway.
Cheers,
Terry.

Hey mate, just got your message, while your mottles are not quite up to 'Wayne' standard I think your method is a good one and provides a good effect. Just keep up the consistency of what you have done and you will be looking ok!
When you finally go for the freehand mottle just remember lots of practice first.

Take care Wayne

Not really sure about torpedoes, as I haven't really looked at them much, especially German examples. But, the pics I've seen of British and American torps seem to show that they were generally in fairly good condition, probably because, unlike many bomb stores, toprs tended to be stored in sheds. There has been evidence of scratches in the paint work, but more light marks I would think, rather than paint chipping. I do know that torps on submarines were greased, partly tp prevent rust and other surface damage, and partly to aid passage through the water. Airborne torps look like they were the same from the little I've seen, so a newish look on the paint (whatever colour they should be) wouldn't look out of place.

Will do. Got to go out now, so I'll have a look tonight, in a rush at the moment!

The latter means the last thing mentioned, in this case, the dusty look.

That would be it i think for the heinkel, plus a bit of a dusty look maybe. Do the latter with a very fine mist of a sandy grey colour. BTW, got your e-mail and replied.
Cheers,
T.

Depends on the look of the aircraft being modelled.Generally, I make it lighter in the centre of the panel, blending progressively darker towards the edges . The latter areas are often the original base colour, but it depends where on the aircraft structure, and whereabouts in the World it's based, time of year etc. That's why the study of the actual aircraft helps - different climates and length of exposure have different effects.
Sunlight comes from above, higher areas, such as the upper parts of the fuselage and the upper wing , will be faded more. Lower sections might have effects of wind and rain, ice etc, from high altitude.Mmight be areas of the underside are faded, partially or completely stripped, due to abrasion of dust/sand/ice etc on the airfield . On the B26 model, upper fading is from sunlight and rain, other areas are due to overall exposure plus dirt and stains.

It takes a bit of practice, and it's one of those things easier demonstrated than explained! You've got the description right - a wet dry brush! Try it on a piece of scrap, even some card. Paint a base colour, then when it's dry, try altering the tones and shades. Imagine it a little like stage face make up, where a colour will be sort of 'rubbed in' at the edges, making it fade one colour into the other. It can be done with an airbrush, but is exceptionally difficult to control for small areas or individual panels, and I don't think the overall result is as natural looking; it tends to look what i is- a rather contrived 'model like' look!