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  • No Cory, it's a bit different. Once the base is painted, the desired area is painted again, but with the brush just damp, in the required shade. Then it's done again in another shade and so on. This method allows the paint to be 'feathered' at the edges, making it fade one colour into another, and there are only small differences in shade. There might be the base colour plus between one and three different shades to obtain the required effect, and it takes some time to do. The paint for the damp brushing is only just thinned a little, to allow it to flow easily, and there is very little paint on the brush.

    I left the room thinking "What the f*ck?" I have no clue though what was going on because it was the first thirty seconds of the dam class and she just goes get out of this class. Thanks for the support!
    Not a wash. Paint basic colour overall. When totally dry, build up lighter shades as patches where required. Study pics of subject to see how various panels might be affected. They tend to fade more in central areas, the edges staying darker, although still fading. This can be done with 'normal' paint, or thinned , allowing the base to influence the finished shade. If you're going to stock-up on enamels, I can't really reccomend Humbrol these days, since the change. I've used the stuff for almost fifty years, and used to swear by it, but now I'm looking for an alternative. I believe Model Master enamels are quite good, although I've never used them - aren't as common to UK as they are in USA.
    Xtracolor enamels are gloss, to eliminate the need for gloss coating before applying decals. These are readily available in the US, but be aware they take some time to dry, especially if brush-painted, compared to Humbrol.
    Hi mate, wondered where you'd been!
    On the B26, the various faded shades were done with a small to medium sized brush, using the same paint (Humbrol enamel) altered as required by adding other colours, such as yellow, white, Dark Earth etc. Each part was individually painted onto the separate panels, blending one colour into the other, building-up the desired effect and using a 'damp brush' for the blending. This is a bit like a dry brush technique, but the tip of a good brush is used, only just damp with thinned paint, and it is carefully stroked, rather like blending water colours on paper. The paint stripping and chipping was done as individual, touched in areas, using a mix of silver and matt white. I find that enamel paints have more versatility for this sort of work, especially as acrylics dry too fast.
    Hey Corey.

    Saw your friend request quite late. Still getting used to the site features. Sorry for the delay.

    Hey Corey, I just saw your message about the sand, glad you liked it, and if you need more just holler!
    Looking quite good but slightly too thick I think.The idea with the CA sounds good as well. But appying a glue or a paint on it always will cause its looking thick.That's way I use the thread from tights both black, grey or graphit in tonality.The problem with the thread smoothness and colour and especially its thickness disappears when using these ones.
    Yes I do.The line should go along the trailing edge of the wing-fuselage transition and back to the tail.I think if you do that at the circled area only it will be ok.But if you don't want to do it , there is no problem.
    I see. To be honest metalizers never dry finally.

    I have seen your answer to my question.Thank you.I understand you. But using the masking tape there shouldn't have been any problem to get the correct borderline between these colours..You always csn correct it with a brush.
    It is not a shame, metalizers like drying for a long time.Be careful with your fingerprints.:lol:
    Yeah.... I remember the build. But have thought you started another small build.
    Oh yes.... the flying tiger... It means that the machine was of AVG unit called Flying Tigers. Waht is the number of the P-40?
    Undoubtedlt the colour on undersides should be light grey. You can use for that the Medium Sea Grey. But not the Sky S-type.
    If the Sky Grey is the US name of the colour so use it of course. BUt it is not the same colour like for RAF Spitfires and Hurricanes.
    It depends on the upper camo scheme. If it was RAF Dark Green ( or simply Dark Green ) and the Ocean Grey, the undersides were of Medium Sea Grey. The Sky S-type was for spinners, quick ID stripes on fuselages and the code letters.
    But if upper surfaces were painted with the Dark Green/ Dark Earth ( simply Brown Earth), the undersides were painted with the Light Grey but not the Sky S-type.The reason of that was that most of P-40B/C with the Dark Gree/Brown Earth/Light Grey camo scheme were made in the USA and painted with paints of the American firm DuPoint.These colours were of a little bit tonalities that those used by RAF. The DuPoint Dark Earth is called reddish-brown as well. The DuPoint numbers of these colours are 71-013 ( Dark Green) ,71-065 ( Brown Earth),71-021( Light Grey).The typical Sky S-type was used for spinners and the quick ID strips on fuselages painting only.These code letters on fuselages were of the Medium Sea Grey.
    I see....I think you don't need to paint with the black gloss.The primer will be OK and enough.
    Additionaly, In my opinion the black gloss undercote is for noticing where the Alclad paint wasn't applied yet.So the gloss cote should be enough to prepare surfaces for painting.
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