Agreed, although 1/60th could still cause camera shake, depending on angles and distance from subject.
With a quality DSLR such as your Nikon, it may be better to "shoot" from further back, possibly / probably without using the macro settings, at around f22 or smaller (eg f26, f32 etc) if lighting allows, although a tripod would be better for this. Select "AP" on the control dial ( Aperture Priority ) and adjust the aperture as required. The smaller the aperture (bigger f number) the larger the depth of field. However, when getting in close, the depth of field can actually be reduced, and with auto focus, the main subject may de slightly out of focus in some areas, Using manual focus may help in this instance.
(On the "old" film SLR cameras, with manual focus, the range of the DoF for a given distance from the subject was shown on a scale on the lens barrel, for example, between 3 feet and 9 feet from the focal plane of the camera. This meant that any subject within those ranges would be in focus, as would the foreground and background.).
To obtain optimum results when photographing, for example, a detail area of a model, "shooting" from further back from the subject, instead of trying to get close up, and then cropping the desired area from the full size image very often gives better overall results, and the same can be said when photographing the full subject, such as a completed model.
The example below shows the full image (in this case reduced to 800 x 585 px for forum use), and a "crop" from the full-sized image, re-sized to the same dimensions.
From memory, the original image was taken at a distance of around 18 inches to 24 inches, using the Nikon 18-55mm lens set at around 35mm, with the aperture at F22, and at ISO 200, using Tungsten lighting at that time. Some slight adjustments were made for brightness and contrast in "Irfanview" on my PC, and then the "crop" was produced, and downsized to the finished image.
Hope this helps.