vikingBerserker
Lieutenant General
Looking nice, and great info gents.
1/48 P-47 Razorback - Tamiya Kit
- Thread starter dneid
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #122
dneid
Staff Sergeant
Hey, Terry,
THANKS!!! Exactly what I needed to see. I do appreciate you guys taking the time to upload these pictures.
THANKS!!! Exactly what I needed to see. I do appreciate you guys taking the time to upload these pictures.
- Thread starter
- #124
dneid
Staff Sergeant
Ok, guys,
I have the drop tanks all sanded down. I used AC ducting tape to make a set of straps. They are on and the tanks are primed. Next step is to get them painted steel and paint the straps as well. Next will be the plumbing and the kickers.
Pic:
I have the drop tanks all sanded down. I used AC ducting tape to make a set of straps. They are on and the tanks are primed. Next step is to get them painted steel and paint the straps as well. Next will be the plumbing and the kickers.
Pic:
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Note, the tanks were painted light grey. Coming from British production sources, the grey was lighter than US Neutral Gray, and was very probably Medium Sea Grey. The two bands were a dull red colour, rather like, and possibly was, Red Oxide primer. Mounting rings were on the top of these bands, which connected to the release shackle jaws on the pylon. Don't forget the circular plate for the feed and pressure unions on the rear, top of the tank, slightly offset to port.
Looking good so far.
Looking good so far.
- Thread starter
- #126
dneid
Staff Sergeant
Ok, just a couple of shots of the Jug. Almost done. Note, I tried to fill on the segments on the ID letters. I just could not get a fill in that looked worth a crap. So, I used a q-tip dipped in mineral spirits and got the paint off. So, I will stick with the segmented ID letters.
Terry, thanks for the info on colors. Not sure how to get the circular plate on the tanks. I need to noodle on that for a bit. Any ideas are more than welcome. Next challenge is just what shade of paint for the red oxide from the model master line enamels.
Pics:
Terry, thanks for the info on colors. Not sure how to get the circular plate on the tanks. I need to noodle on that for a bit. Any ideas are more than welcome. Next challenge is just what shade of paint for the red oxide from the model master line enamels.
Pics:
fubar57
General
Looks great Dale. Can't help you with the present about the circle but for the future, buying a scribing template has helped me with sanded off and added detail.
Geo
Geo
Dale, if you need a scribing template for the circular plate on the tanks just use a piece of aluminium sheet taken from a beer, coca-cola etc.. can . The sheet is very thin and can be easy cutting with scissors . Then drill a couple of holes with drill bits of a different diameters. For scribing you may use an ordinary but thin needle.
Here you are and example on a way about how to make a scribing template .. the one I made is of more intricate shape but your one can be obtained by drilling easily.
Here you are and example on a way about how to make a scribing template .. the one I made is of more intricate shape but your one can be obtained by drilling easily.
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Good stuff yet again Wojtek
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
The Red Oxide is simple - just add a touch of brown, with a tiny touch of black, to red, to make a dark red 'rust' colour.
The simplest way to make the plate on the tank is to punch a small disc of very thin plastic, or even paper, and add it to the top of the tanks. If possible, a hole can be only countersunk, for the disc to fit into, but this isn't that important.
Note that the disc itself was virtually flush, with a rim standing just proud, and looked rather like the filler cap, as shown below. It could also be made by adding a small sliver of suitably sized plastic tube, then sanding it down, as I did for a filler on the 'flat' tank on my P-47. When the 'plumbing' is attached, and being partly hidden under the wing, it would look acceptable enough.
The simplest way to make the plate on the tank is to punch a small disc of very thin plastic, or even paper, and add it to the top of the tanks. If possible, a hole can be only countersunk, for the disc to fit into, but this isn't that important.
Note that the disc itself was virtually flush, with a rim standing just proud, and looked rather like the filler cap, as shown below. It could also be made by adding a small sliver of suitably sized plastic tube, then sanding it down, as I did for a filler on the 'flat' tank on my P-47. When the 'plumbing' is attached, and being partly hidden under the wing, it would look acceptable enough.
Attachments
Top Stuff all round...
- Thread starter
- #133
dneid
Staff Sergeant
Great information, all. I was puttering around with the tanks last night and I think the paper or plastic disc idea will work. I will be trying these today. I do like the ideas for a scribing template as well. I will look for one as well. I do need to get one for the tool kit.
fubar57
General
The masters speak....
Geo
Geo
Crimea_River
Marshal
A handy tool in my repertoire is an inexpensive leather punch set similar to this one. Makes nice little circular holes or discs that can be used in applications like the one you need for your cap.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Interesting punch there Andy. What's the approximate range of diameters? I have a set of individual punches from, if memory serves, 19mm down to 4mm, but a smaller set, like yours, would be useful, without having to go to the expense of the Waldron and similar punch and die sets.
Crimea_River
Marshal
I have two sets Terry, each with one handle capable of receiving the 6 threaded punches of varying diameter in each set. The diameters vary from 2mm up to 8mm in 0.5mm increments. These were pretty cheap and the workmanship of the punches is consistent with the price. The good part about that is that the punches are made from fairly soft steel which, counter-intuitively, allowed me to file the dull edges to be very sharp and capable of cutting clean holes in plastic.
I think I paid about 15 bucks total for the two sets at a local craft superstore.
I think I paid about 15 bucks total for the two sets at a local craft superstore.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks Andy. The steel quality sound like the ones I have but, as you say, a file can work wonders, and for the price, and the relatively few times they'll be used, on soft material, they're good enough. I'll have a look for some, as they can always come in useful (like all the bits and pieces we horde 'in case they come in useful'!).
- Thread starter
- #139
dneid
Staff Sergeant
Hey, Guys,
Once again, thank you all for all the input. I do appreciate you all taking the time to help out. I am looking at a set of punches, but until I am back to work, I am watching the cash outlays. I need to research just what is available before I do buy. I would prefer to get a good to great set as long as I can get the range and increments of dimensions. I found a set somewhere on the web (it may have been the link for the lead wire) that seem nice, but they are not cheap and not that wide of set of dimensions. Does Waldron still do their set of punches? I had a set years ago that were damned nice.
Ok, drop tanks are done and mounted. I used my drafters template (those plastic things you always see) to cut out a set of circles with a sharp, fresh blade from the ducting tape I used for the straps. I made up some red (red, brown, a dollop of black - not completely happy with the shade, but it is what it is), taped off the straps and got them painted. I then drilled the holes for the plumbing and got em installed (pic below). I decided I am going to make the deflector pieces and try to get a resin mold made up when my buddy is up from Houston next month for a weekend building session. Don (used to be Phanotom II here) is a great help many times. My goal is to get deflector pieces and smooth steel, 108 gal drop tank molds made up so I do not have to play this silly game again.
I have just a few fiddly bits to put on (tail wheel doors, IFF whip under the left wing) and I think I am done. I need to sit back and verify I have all the fiddly stuff accounted for. All in all, the Tamiya Razorback is amazing kit! Oh, and the deflector is molded into the wing tank pylons. I have another kit on the shelf. I think those will be cutoff and used to make the molds I mentioned above....
Pic:
Once again, thank you all for all the input. I do appreciate you all taking the time to help out. I am looking at a set of punches, but until I am back to work, I am watching the cash outlays. I need to research just what is available before I do buy. I would prefer to get a good to great set as long as I can get the range and increments of dimensions. I found a set somewhere on the web (it may have been the link for the lead wire) that seem nice, but they are not cheap and not that wide of set of dimensions. Does Waldron still do their set of punches? I had a set years ago that were damned nice.
Ok, drop tanks are done and mounted. I used my drafters template (those plastic things you always see) to cut out a set of circles with a sharp, fresh blade from the ducting tape I used for the straps. I made up some red (red, brown, a dollop of black - not completely happy with the shade, but it is what it is), taped off the straps and got them painted. I then drilled the holes for the plumbing and got em installed (pic below). I decided I am going to make the deflector pieces and try to get a resin mold made up when my buddy is up from Houston next month for a weekend building session. Don (used to be Phanotom II here) is a great help many times. My goal is to get deflector pieces and smooth steel, 108 gal drop tank molds made up so I do not have to play this silly game again.
I have just a few fiddly bits to put on (tail wheel doors, IFF whip under the left wing) and I think I am done. I need to sit back and verify I have all the fiddly stuff accounted for. All in all, the Tamiya Razorback is amazing kit! Oh, and the deflector is molded into the wing tank pylons. I have another kit on the shelf. I think those will be cutoff and used to make the molds I mentioned above....
Pic:
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Airframes
Benevolens Magister
That's looking good there Dale, and the red on the tank straps looks fine to me. One thing though, all photos I've seen of the group's P-47s, including the 'bubbletop' 'D' variant, had the plain wheel covers over the six-spoke wheels, with many using these for extra 'art work' of some kind, although most just plain Neutral Gray.
And I've only just confirmed, too late for you and for my last P-47 model, that only the Curtiss-built 'G' model had the Interior Green/Chromate Green cockpit - Republic aircraft had a Dull Dark Green cockpit colour!
However, after checking a lot of photos, many showed, through variation in tone, what appeared to be the DDG cockpit, but with the rear bulkhead behind the armour plate, and the area beneath the canopy in what looked like the Interior Green colour.
And I've only just confirmed, too late for you and for my last P-47 model, that only the Curtiss-built 'G' model had the Interior Green/Chromate Green cockpit - Republic aircraft had a Dull Dark Green cockpit colour!
However, after checking a lot of photos, many showed, through variation in tone, what appeared to be the DDG cockpit, but with the rear bulkhead behind the armour plate, and the area beneath the canopy in what looked like the Interior Green colour.
