- Thread starter
-
- #101
Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules
And about the nose art, Dick Cole (sole surviving Doolittle Raider) said that any artwork done on the Raider's B-25s was done with chalk and washed off during the rainy gale on 18 April, 1942. We'll never know for certain about the nose art on #15.
Thank you, Andy! I might look into eyeliner brushes, though I think the problem isn't really the brush itself but rather the fact that paint is, well, liquid. I just can't write that small with paint, no matter how thin the brush, cocktail stick, or drill bit. The letters have to be 1/64" thick, it's just thinner than what I can do with anything other than pencil and paper.Sorry to hear of your noseart issues. Freehand painting at small scale is certainly tricky and the only thing I can offer, short of making your own decals (though white decals have their own challenges) is to get yourself a lifetime supply of cheap eye liner brushes like these:
Amazon product ASIN B074SFJSNF
View: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B074SFJSNF/
Hope you are able to get this sorted by Sunday. You can leave the noseart off for later and let us judges look at the rest of the build on its own merits.
Thanks, Bill.Is too bad, looks like Kitsworld was your only option for production decals.
I use a pair of clamping tweezers to hold decals, both in the water and holding in place for sliding.
Make sure the surface is wet with water, or decals solution, regular would be okay there.
I then use the little sponge sticks the wife uses for eye make-up powder to slide the decal into place and move around to where you want it.
Wishing I could have helped more, and sooner.
When I get stuck I always look on YouTube for the process I need help with.
Look forward to see you do another GB. You did well.
Bill
My memory's not great so I can't give you a full answer there. I know for sure I applied Vallejo Satin Varnish (Acrylic) to the top surfaces and the sides before applying the decals, and I think I applied it to the undersides too but I'm not 100% sure. All applied with a flat brush. The sides and bottom were both giving me trouble, and the former was definitely varnished. I don't know if varnish is the same as a clear coat. Your mention of a thin coat does remind me that I haven't been thinning the varnish when in hindsight I should have, though it hasn't been clumping up. It looks like a blueish white when applied but dries clear and without lumps, I can only tell the areas that are varnished because they are slightly glossier than the unvarnished parts.Are you first applying a clear coat Under the decal ares?
I have had decals slide off the backing and Stick like i glued them in place!
Because I didn't clear coat. Clear acrylic floor polish is usually used.
I have an old bottle of Pledge, One Go I've had for several years.
Any of them like this will work.
I apply a thin coat with a brush. Dip and almost wire dry for a thin film.
It can also be air brushed, THIN coat all over the model.
Too thick and it slumps and runs into a puddle just like paint.
This usually looks like, you know!!!!!!!
After it has dried then apply the decals as usual.
The Pledge will take any of the decal solutions as well as Lacquer clear coats.
Thank you!That "Whirling Dervish" is bl**dy good, you have every right to feel satisfied with it. Well done.
Hi Andy,Hey Matt, what's the plan? Are you going to post some finished pics in a day or 2? GB ended yesterday.