1/72 Savoia-Marchetti S.55X - Seaplanes / Floatplanes of WWII

[mikewint]

Jim, I would tend to side with Wojtek on this. Unless the glue job is minimal you've got a lot of cutting/sawing to do which then has to be repaired/reglued. I'd just clean-up what I have

 

[Capt. Vick]

OK. But if it is possible I need to see the inner surfaces of both of pieces of the pontoon.

Will do amigo...

 

[Capt. Vick]

At this time, this is the version I am doing. It is described as such: "X version fitted for military use after the great flight". (I assume the "great flight" is a referrence to Balbo's 24 plane formation fight from Italy to Chicago and beyond...) Anyway, it appears that the rear two gun positions are enclosed in turrets, which is cool, but the lack of markings and any nose armament such as on the S.55M makes me think that this picture was taken during a transitional stage. Anyone have an opinion and or more photographs?

 

[Capt. Vick]

OK. But if it is possible I need to see the inner surfaces of both of pieces of the pontoon.

 

[Wurger]

At these areas circled yellow A,B,C you may encounter a trouble with cutting because of these flanges there. And I would suggest either deeper cutting/sawing by putting the blade more indoors or extraneous cutting up to them. But these flanges could be stuck to the inner sides of the top part of the float. In the case the deeper cutting/sawing across them may be a better way. But it depends on you only if you decide to take the float apart and follow the way. However I would like to remind the old Murphy's rule ... if you want to correct somebody's work it is better to start it from beginning. The choice is yours.

I would start cutting with the small gap we can see at the nose of the float D. Then I would go to the back slowly.

For cutting, I would suggest a such scalpel blade... but the standard one for modeller's knife can be too. Of course a razor blade is fine as well.

 

[Capt. Vick]

At these areas circled yellow A,B,C you may encounter a trouble with cutting because of these flanges there.

I..DID...NOT...EVEN...THINK...OF...THAT... Good point! Perhaps I MAY leave well enough alone.

 

[T Bolt]

Good to see you in a GB Jim. I didn't know there was a kit of one of those available. My father saw a squadron of those that flew over and attended the 1933 Chicago World's Fair when he was a kid. Here's a picture I pulled off the internet.

 

[Wurger]

 

[Capt. Vick]

Oh man that's nice. And thanks for the welcome. Figure it's time to XXXX or get off the pot.

 

[vikingBerserker]

Here you go Jim

http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/ot...marchetti-s-55-manuals-40796.html#post1125310

 

[Wurger]

Great.

 

[Capt. Vick]

Thanks my friend!

 

[Capt. Vick]

Request for help #2

Found this picture on the web. Does anyone know where it came from? What publication? Seems like it would have a bunch of info.

Thanks, Jim

 

[fubar57]

Can't help you there Jim but have you seen this..
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yb8kYGw3Nm0

Geo

Hmmmm, thought it was a link and not the actual video

 

[mikewint]

Wojtek Jim, looking at the thickness of the plastic I doubt if a blade will be able to "cut" through it. Any cutting will most likely have to be done with a razor-saw blade

 

[Wurger]

You are right Mike. But I'm not sure if Jim has the razor-saw blade. However the thickness of the flanges seems to be almost the same like the one of the wall of the top part of the float. Cutting through them may be quite easy though if the blade is pretty sharp. The cutting through them can be needed if the guy , who had stuck the float parts together, used more of glue than it should have been used. If he had, these flanges might have been glued to the inner sides of the top part. But if these haven't been stuck there is a gap between them and side walls of the top part. My experience says that if there is the gap it is very likely the joint at the area can be torn when using the scalpel blade moved deeper into the float. It is a matter of the difference between the cutting edge of the blade and the thickness of the main part of the blade. Also the joint there can be incided initially what can help with cracking of it.

 

[Capt. Vick]

Well this came today... Not sure I will use it on second thought.

 

[Wurger]

Nice addition.

But could you resize your pictures down before posting them here? 800 pixels in the width is enough. A such large images cause the loading pages slower.

 

[mikewint]

Wojtek, I've just had bad luck trying to "cut" through such plastic plus the hard high carbon steel blades are brittle and can break with lateral pressure, still have the scar

 

[Capt. Vick]

But could you resize your pictures down before posting them here? 800 pixels in the width is enough. A such large images cause the loading pages slower.

Sorry. Been doing it all from my smart phone.