- Thread starter
- #341
Thanks guys. That means alot.
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Crimea_River
Marshal
Missed the last batch Jim. Really looking good man.
like seeing this progress Jim.
Tony Hill
Tech Sergeant
Marvellous detail!
- Thread starter
- #345
Ok guys, time to finish this up. I am having a bit of an issue with the automotive primer that I used for the inside of the hangar base. Would you believe that I didn't know until very recently that primer is supposed to be porous to allow the top paint to adhere better? (Or something like that.) I think that is why I am having so much trouble adding the detail washes and dry brushing! The stuff just doesn't flow or blend, but sinks right in to the primer and just sets! At first I thought it was because the roughness of the rattle can spray so I wiped it down with cheesecloth until it was smooth. Same problem. So I have come to the conclusion that I need to spray the whole thing with some kind of clear gloss finish before attempting the wash and pastel dry brushing again.
So the first question is, am I right? Will applying a clear coat solved the issue and seal the surface?
And 2, if so what clear coat should I use? Is there a specific one I should use for automotive primmer?
Any help you can give would be much appreciated.
Thanks, Jim
So the first question is, am I right? Will applying a clear coat solved the issue and seal the surface?
And 2, if so what clear coat should I use? Is there a specific one I should use for automotive primmer?
Any help you can give would be much appreciated.
Thanks, Jim
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
A clear coat should help, probably a matt finish would be best. Acrylic would do the job, depending on what you intend to use for 'weathering', lines etc etc.
Being an automotive primer, it's probably either cellulose, or synthetic enamel, so a polyurethane or enamel clear coat should also work.
Alternatively, dirt, staining etc could be 'rubbed in', using pastels, chalks, dust etc.
Being an automotive primer, it's probably either cellulose, or synthetic enamel, so a polyurethane or enamel clear coat should also work.
Alternatively, dirt, staining etc could be 'rubbed in', using pastels, chalks, dust etc.
- Thread starter
- #347
Thanks Terry. Just thought gloss to allow the washes to flow better and then matt over that and the brushed in pastels. No?
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Could do it that way, although a matt clear coat should work just as well. Maybe try a small area in matt, to see how it goes, then alter if needed.
Crimea_River
Marshal
I have found that washes over a matt coat sometimes leave unwanted stains. But that's for aircraft. Gloss coats help the washes flow into panel lines and excess material to be wiped away. So it depends on what you are trying to achieve really.
- Thread starter
- #350
Ok, honestly was getting frustrated with my inability to paint a convincing cement surface for the inside of the hanger, and I was not even considering the concrete apron outside! How can this be so hard!!!
A few months later I found THIS video and decided to tried again:
Also, I changed up airbrushs. I packed away my single action badger and hooked up my dual action Paasche Talon for the first time. I was hoping that the gravity feed on this model would eliminate the constant clogging or non-suction of the Badger. (Spoiler alert, so far so good!)
I applied the Tamiya Fine White Primer (this is like the third layer primer) which went on like a dream straight from the spray can(!), then the NATO Black and this is what I NOW have:
I find this photo a little confusing, but the top is the inside of the hanger and the bottom is the apron. Next up is the part that usually turns it into crap when I try it. I have to fill in the entire area bounded by the black lines, and a little over, with Tamiya Neutral Grey. I have to cover it in its entirety and yet not so heavy that the black "seams" don't show through. Seems simple enough, but I keep screwing it up...
A few months later I found THIS video and decided to tried again:
Also, I changed up airbrushs. I packed away my single action badger and hooked up my dual action Paasche Talon for the first time. I was hoping that the gravity feed on this model would eliminate the constant clogging or non-suction of the Badger. (Spoiler alert, so far so good!)
I applied the Tamiya Fine White Primer (this is like the third layer primer) which went on like a dream straight from the spray can(!), then the NATO Black and this is what I NOW have:
I find this photo a little confusing, but the top is the inside of the hanger and the bottom is the apron. Next up is the part that usually turns it into crap when I try it. I have to fill in the entire area bounded by the black lines, and a little over, with Tamiya Neutral Grey. I have to cover it in its entirety and yet not so heavy that the black "seams" don't show through. Seems simple enough, but I keep screwing it up...
Crimea_River
Marshal
The key is to use very thin paint Jim. I'd suggest like 20% paint to 80% thinner then apply in thin coats stopping frequently to check appearance.
- Thread starter
- #352
Thanks, will (hopefully) do...
- Thread starter
- #353
I understand NOW what you mean about thinning the paint way down. I should have re-primed and reapplied the black seams and made the edges softer. I tried to compensate with the next color, Neutral Grey, and probably applied too much paint in an attempt to correct the previous colors hard edge. Anyway, this is what I have now...
...I guess I'll sleep on it.
...I guess I'll sleep on it.
fubar57
General
Not too bad Jim. You don't want the black to be too stark. Add the oil stains and see how it looks
Crimea_River
Marshal
I think that looks pretty good Jim and I agree with Geo.
Looks goid to me
- Thread starter
- #358
Well I have one more shade of grey to add if I go forward, or back to the white primer or NATO Black if I don't. We'll see....
- Thread starter
- #359
I am really LOVING the dual-action airbrush though.
Crimea_River
Marshal
You're hooked!
