Airfix 1/48 P-51D

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Luftace43

Senior Airman
315
133
Mar 16, 2018
Hi everyone, been a lurker around here for a while now, and after seeing so many great builds, I finally signed up and this is my first post. Just getting back into modelling after a very slow past few years for me in the hobby, but I wouldn't necessarily say I've been completely out, just not had a dedicated work space until recently. ;)
Anywho, onto what we all really want to hear about, the model!!
So, I was in my nearest (not exactly local) hobby shop the other day and I finally saw the new Airfix p-51 on the shelf. Well, I've been eyeballing this kit since I first heard of its coming existence a couple years ago, so needless to say I snatched it up and didn't set it down again until I was at the checkout counter. So far I am very impressed with this kit. Very well detailed, mostly sharp molding (some detail is just a tad soft) and excellent engineering. Seeing how some things fit together and somewhat unconventionally and with excellent fit is really exciting to me. I have the interior about 90% complete and am almost ready to start closing the fuselage. Hopefully I can get pictures up of where I am at right now. Would love to hear what you guys think and I will gladly answer any questions.
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Port sidewall detail. Added two cables forward of the throttle quadrant from stretched sprue.
Painted with model master acrylics and washed/highlighted with artists oils.
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Starboard sidewall. Still want to add a few white wires here before I seal it up. OOTB at the moment. I did half heartedly fill the the ejector pin marks on both sidewalls with a little Mr. Surfacer 1000, and is not really noticeable once sealed up, but as you know, the camera reveals all sins, lol.
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Tried to get a decent shot at the instrument panel. It was painted model master acryl flat black followed by Vallejo gloss clear. The instruments are the kit decal after several coats of micro sol. It worked very very well I think. I would prick the decal with a new #11 blade once it was in place to allow the inevitable trapped air out. Let dry, check for any problem areas, repeat as necessary. I picked out details with testors gloss red and white oil paint. I even tried to create labels/ placards as best I could with the same red and white mentioned above. Except for the placard at the top, which was already on the decal, all others were hand painted. I even tried replicating the landing gear position lights at the bottom of the main instruments by drilling two holes and inserting tiny pieces of stretched clear sprue, then painting one clear red and the other clear green. It turned out to be for nothing, as it can barely be seen, but oh well!:p
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View of the seat. I did not do any modifications to this, as I am trying very hard to make this a mostly ootb build, as I usually suffer from bad AMS. Painted the seat fs 34092 for an approximation of bronze green. The shoulder belts need a bit of white touch up still. Also tried painting the stitching with black oil paint. The seat armor was painted the same color as the seat. Dunno if it is correct, but I figured it made for a nice contrast to the rest of the interior.
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View of the rear radiator. Painted flat black then very gently buffed with silver rub and buff. The trick is to use a miniscule amount, and to have a flat finish for it to grab onto. I am going to use alclad for the overall finish, but I didn't have it on hand yet when I built this area. No biggie, it's just the interior bit and mostly hidden. Very shiny though, notice the radiator reflecting slightly on the surface behind it.
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Front radiator, treated same as the rear one. Very nice detail. Also, I do realize that there is an ejector pin mark clearly seen in this picture, but after checking the fit and peering inside, I determined it would not be visible, therefore didn't bother trying to fill and sand them. (There are two, one on each side)
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This is the starboard vent fairing faired in with a smidge of milliput. The fit was pretty good, but left a tiny gap, same for the opposite side as well. Less than a minute to fix this, not a big deal.
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Showing both vertical stabilizer halves glued in place. No filler needed! (Almost) There was one tiny spot you may be able to see in the last pic where the panel lines form a "+". There was a pin hole I could see light shining through, so added a sliver of milliput. Other than that, these were glued on with tamiya extra thin and align carefully checked while it cured. These have not even been sanded yet. Excellent fit, and as much as I can tell, test fitting shows that no filler may be needed for the halves after being joined. The only thing I was sort of scratching my head over is the two tail options Airfix give you in this kit. I can not tell the difference at all, panel line for panel line. They both also seem to be slightly offset of the centerline as to the best of my knowledge is correct for the p-51. I am no expert on this airframe and honestly haven't looked much into this area. The only thing I notice different about the two options is that on the parts the tell you to use, the fastener/rivet detail is not even aligned properly around the fairing for the horizontal stabilizers, as if it were a mold defect. Needless to say, I used the other parts as the detail here looked much better and correctly molded.
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Last pic for now. Just showing what the office area will look like closed up. Also the nicely represented wheel well area, for now with just a coat of mm chromate green over flat black. I also added wires to the radio behind the seat from white painted lead wire.

So, that's it for now, just waiting for my book on VLR mustang to come in the mail. I will be painting this as an aircraft from the 46th Fighter Squadron flying from Iwo Jima in 1945. Thanks for looking and hopefully I'll have some more to show soon.:)
 
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Welcome to the site. Very nice work on the innards, especially the placards. Something you probably don't want to hear is that Barracuda Studios has just released a P-51 placard decal sheet. Display Products

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As for the tail, I read last week that the options represent different manufacturing blocks of the -D model. The smaller "bend" was the early version. I'll see if I can find the site and post the link here
 
Hello Luftace43, first of all, welcome to the forum and what you present in your first project with us, it is an interesting job to enjoy.
I really like how it looks inside the cockpit, the IP and the sides. It is seen that the Airfix kit is in very good condition (in my return to modeling, I have not yet assembled an Airfix kit, this helps me to make the investment) I am struck by the decals that simulate "indications plates" on the sides of the pit.
You should know that I really like the detail of the interiors, landing gear and engines, so, I will be aware of your progress.

Saludos y bienvenido al grupo. :thumbup:
Luis Carlos
SANCER

Greetings from Mexico.
 
Welcome aboard and very nice work on the kit so far.

If you are into accuracy, you may want to note that the wheel wells were a combination of bare aluminum (inner face of wing skin) and zinc chromate for the ribs, stringers, and spars like this:

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There's an excellent build going on here with more references and info on the Mustang than you will ever want to know!
 
Thank you all for the kind words! I am usually one to try and super detail everything, this is an exercise in just trying to get a kit finished (haven't actually completed anything since 2012). Some detailing will be done, but nothing too crazy or expensive this time around. :p

fubar57 fubar57
Thanks, I actually used some of their pictures for reference, but decided to forego the extra expense at this time. As for the fin, I took a look at the discussion and went back and compared the kit parts more closely. Here is what I found.
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The top one has two panels forward of the main fin where the fillet begins, while the bottom one has only one at the top of the transition. Other than that, the parts in the kit are the exact same shape and match up exactly with each other with no deviations. Notice on the top part how the fastener detail around the transition fairing for the horizontal stabilizers is crude and even goes off the edge of the part itself. Dunno what is going on with the mold here and I have seen this problem in other reviews of the kit as well. On a positive note, I will be able to easily scribe in a single line if the extra panel is needed depending on what research reveals on the one of 50 possible aircraft I plan on replicating from the 46th fs. :D

SANCER SANCER
This is my first Airfix kit ever, never even built any of their older ones as I thought they were not detailed enough for my liking. The new kits since Hornby took over are fantastic though, and I think if they keep making progress the way they have been, they will be giving other highly regarded brands a run for their money. I now enjoy keeping up with what Airfix have in development at any given time, something I thought would never happen. I too enjoy detailing interiors, especially the cockpit, as this is the nerve center of any aircraft. I'm going minimal on this one though, as I usually spend many hours trying to put in every detail possible, and for this I just want to finish something for a change. I do plan on adding just a little more, so keep an eye out as I will try to document what bits I will make and how. ;)

A Andy K
Thanks much for that link, that is some intense dedication to detail! I will be using it to add a few more details, on thinking for now to the top of the fuel cell area. Also, thanks for the wheel well pic, I will be repainting mine accordingly. ;)
 
Welcome aboard! It's great to see a new face and also a kit that hasn't been built here (as far as I know). Great work and I appreciate all of the explanations and examinations of the various details... it's great information and highly appreciated!
 
JKim JKim
Thank you sir for the warm welcome. I will try to present this build with what I really like to see when I read about other builds, and that is not just here's a blurry picture, I put it together, but rather more so the how and why so that others can learn too, as well as being clear enough for others to understand and jump in if they have more knowledge than I do on any given thing and help me out as well. Also, I enjoy reading about other's builds on a kit I am currently working on, and seeing there is very slim actual builds of this kit at this point in time (plenty of in-box reviews though), I figured I could show others how this one builds up and how I am going about it. Hopefully it will be useful to others just as I find neat tips and tricks read through build threads and articles. I'm really glad you like it so far. ;)

A Andy
Ah, the light has come on now sir, many thanks! Again, aside from the aforementioned molding discrepancies, I am really impressed that Airfix included such a subtle detail. Here is a picture of the parts again confirming what you showed me. I colored the attached part with a black Sharpe and carefully aligned and taped up the part I didn't use to the tail. Its tiny, but you can clearly see that one part is straight while the front piece in this picture has a shallow curve to it. This is the kind of stuff why I love this forum.:thumbright:
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Ok guys, not too much done, but tried a new technique and experimented a bit. Here's what I did.
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I got some super fine white milliput and mixed equal parts.
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I rolled it out with my finger on a cutting may to the desired thickness. I am making various electrical wires for the cockpit, so using reference photos I eyeballed how thick or thin they should be. Now, this was the tricky part and here are my suggestions if you'd like to try this yourself. Have a little talcum powder on hand to coat your finger tips with. A little bit goes a long way, so just touch your fingers to the powder and rub them with your thumb to coat evenly. Should just take the tackiness from your finger tips, not so much that it looks like you've been playing pastry chef. I tried rolling it without the powder and the putty kept stick to my fingers and was really difficult to get it anywhere near as thin as I needed it. The talcum solved this. Also, if you let the putty set for a couple minutes after mixing, it is easier to work with. Also, the longer it sets up, the more prone to breaking it is versus bending very easily. I'd say you have about 45 minutes to work with it before it gets too brittle though. You get a feel for it pretty quickly once you start playing with it.
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With a new hobby blade (you want a clean cut, a dull blade may smush the clay) cut the length you desire. Now, with a damp pointed brush, slightly dampen the area you intend to apply your wire, and pick up the putty with the same brush. Carefully place as you would like. You can use your brush to shape the pieces to any contour you need. I made a wire bundle for the forward radio box (not sure what exactly it is at the moment) by placing about three pieces side by side, then using the brush carefully crossed them and rolled them onto themselves. Takes a little practice and a couple strands broke on me doing this, but once placed I was able to use the brush to coax them back into a suitable position. Only other thing I did was add a couple of touches of black oil paint to simulate wire clamps.
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Here is the finished result. I came across this technique a couple days ago surfing the net and found a link to a demo on YouTube by squadron models. Search for "milliput wires". It should be one of the first videos that come up. Only thing different I did than what was shown was the use of talcum powder. Hope this may be new and useful to some of you. :)
 
Forgot to mention that another benefit of this technique is there is no need for adhesives. The dampened putty adheres itself to the surface as it cures. This was the main reason I used this here instead of wire is because I didn't want any glue traces in a highly visible area.
 

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