B-25G "Shark Mouth"; 1/48, Academy

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Thank you very much Terry, then the correct name is "nacelle" (I should already be creating my own dictionary of terminology), wow, I love it and it is clear to me that I still have a lot to follow learning, but I have the comfort of being with many friends who know about the subject.
A hug.

... addressing the issue of "engine mount" in my drawer I found a piece I think it was a little megaphone, ... after removing some parts that do not serve me and slimming the basis of what will be the center circle, I made the strokes to mount the tubes of the structure ...

Do you remember my "calculómetro"?, well, it help me again!!



Tubes that I will get from hypodermic needles.

It was crazy and since I'm still afraid to work the welding (and I have not given myself the time to practice ), I did not want to get angry and I preferred to use CA + Baking soda ...



The disk options that I have for my Dremel, helped me to cut the needles and reduce the surplus of CA + BS ...



... the finished piece ...



The situation will become interesting when mounting those ends on my new back wall ... And the scratch work started!



... and this is where "I burned my eyelashes" (it's a saying here in Mexico: "me quemé las pestañas"...) to start making all the pieces, ducts, tubes and cables ... !!



This is a dry fit to locate the placement of the pieces ...



It has been several hours to choose the wires that give me the approximate measurement and it has helped me have different calibers of welding wire that make their handling easier; among others of copper and stainless steel.

You can see in the final photos of post # 119, that still a few work to do, but I anticipate that I will not lose the reason making all that nest ... and then make them fit and match with everything that comes from the front wall !!

It's all for now and I hope to have some progress in coming days ... !!

Happy start of the Christmas season for everyone and their families

Saludos
 
SANCER said:
Cultural question: is it also called cowling to that part that covers the back of the engine? Or does it have another name?
Click to expand...

Excellent work Luis! Terry has given an excellent description of the components of the nacelle but I was wondering if what you mean by "that part that covers the back of the engine" and what you are referring to as the "back wall" is the firewall. Here's the firewall of a twin engined aircraft if this is what you mean.



The role of the firewall is to prevent heat, oil, fuel, and other undesirables from the engine entering the interior of the airframe. The term originates from the steam engine era where the firewall protected the interior from the fire that heated the boiler. It has also more recently been adopted by the IT industry to describe software that prevents undesirables from outside entering the interior of an organisation's network!
 
Hello Kirby, thanks for your words and comments on the firewall, very clear and interesting information!
But my question was about the nacelle (the whole section that follows of cowling in multi-engine airplanes.)
Knowledge gains anyway.

Muchas gracias y saludos
 
Good addition by Kirby. The 'firewall' shown in the pic of the DC-3 posted, can also be known as the engine bulkhead (mainly in 'old school' British terminology), both terms being correct, although a true firewall is normally fireproofed and sealed against leakage of fluids, whereas an engine bulkhead may not be.
For example, in motor sport, where a standard saloon-type car (eg Ford Focus or Subaru Imprezza) is built as a rally car, and has a rear-mounted fuel tank, possibly re-located in the boot (trunk), and the engine in the front, the integral bulkheads in both the engine compartment and the trunk are sealed to prevent the passage of fluids, and treated with fire-retardent materials, and then become 'firewalls'.
 
Superb modelling Luis, a real plesure to watch unfolding.

As for soldering, you should give it a try. I freaked me out at first as well. But if you can get hold of an fine pointed electronics soldering iron, which allows you to dial in the temperature and with small diameter soldering lead, you're good to go. (I usually borrow one from our technicians department at work)
A temperature between 250C and 350C is usually good for soldering modelling scratch build parts. Though keep the plastic away as it melts like snow in the vicinety of the hot solder iron... (Don't ask me how I know )
 
HOLY SHIT Luis this Mitchell project is looking freaking awesome. As always most excellent job on the Instrument panel and interior !!! That engine area detail is going to look fantastic. Keep the awesomeness up
 
Thank you very much everyone for your kind comments Terry, Huge, Darryl, Geo, Jerry, John and Brian.

I've been out of town for a week, taking advantage of a few quiet days with my boys in Monterrey.
Next week I'll be back and I'll be able to get my hands on the B-25.

A hug, congratulations and greetings to all.

Saludos
Luis Carlos
 
Hello friends, I hope you all are well.


Before leaving on vacation for a few days, I had already realized this detail ...



With the removal of the two plates of the cowling, are disproportionate (or poorly centered in that space) the two piston rings ...



... and all I can do is move back the second piston ring. The complicated thing will be to look for the way to take off the pieces (I used Tamiya ETC). I have to make a small increase in the central tube, and take advantage to make that metallic ring that goes between the two piston rings ... easy task ... hahaha




I must not alter the length of the distance, so that the point where the propeller is inserted, does not affect the correct posture.




Suggestions and recommendations are accepted ; ... and the way in which I could separate those piston rings (there is no space for me to make the cut with a saw, or Dremel disc.)

While something occurs to us, I will continue with the task of riveting lines ... uff!

Saludos colegas
 
L-C, if you pardon the correction, you are speaking of the cylinders. The pistons are inside the cylinders and the piston rings are the seals between the piston and cylinder wall.

I have found that, if it's not too late, the Tamiya ETC can be pried apart with force as I find it leaves the plastic soft for a day or two. If that doesn't work, maybe dental floss. Lots pf back and forth with floss will melt a groove in the plastic through friction.
 
I thank you very much for the mechanical clarification, Andy; for this type of errors by omission, carelessness or simple ignorance, I will ALWAYS thank you, as well as my spelling or pronunciation errors in the language (and in my language too !)

It's been more than 15 days since I put the pieces together, so I'll try flossing.

Muchas gracias amigo
 
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