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hawkeye2an

Staff Sergeant
1,257
432
Mar 18, 2009
St Joseph, Missouri
First let me say that I have REALLY enjoyed this forum. I first ran across it about a year ago and didn't have a lot of time for it. I have now jumped in with both feet. I have also gotten back into Model building after about 15 year absence. These questions will sound simple to most of you, but I haven't found any of them in recent threads.

1. What is the best filler putty? I used to used 3M bondo thinned with TUBE GLUE, when I mentioned this at my local club you'd have thought I was talking about 8-track tapes.

2. What's the best masking product? Hate to sound like I'm favoring 3M but that is what I used to use also. I bought a new roll and tried it, I don't know if they changed their formula, but it was a disaster. The adhesive stayed on in the corners and I sent the whole thing into the strip tank.

3. What's the best glue? I used to use lacquer thinner on small parts and tube glue on the BEEFY areas.

4. What's the best material for vacuum forming replacement canopies. I used to use Squadron's thermo-form but that's not available any more.

5. What are the best paints to use. I used to use Humbrol, but can't find them. I never had any luck with Acryls but that was a long time ago, have they gotten any better?

Don't laugh at me I'M TRYING TO COME OUT OF THE STONE AGE, but I'm in Iowa and it's still a little cold here, if you know what I mean !!
 
First let me say that I have REALLY enjoyed this forum. I first ran across it about a year ago and didn't have a lot of time for it. I have now jumped in with both feet. I have also gotten back into Model building after about 15 year absence. These questions will sound simple to most of you, but I haven't found any of them in recent threads.

1. What is the best filler putty? I used to used 3M bondo thinned with TUBE GLUE, when I mentioned this at my local club you'd have thought I was talking about 8-track tapes.

2. What's the best masking product? Hate to sound like I'm favoring 3M but that is what I used to use also. I bought a new roll and tried it, I don't know if they changed their formula, but it was a disaster. The adhesive stayed on in the corners and I sent the whole thing into the strip tank.

3. What's the best glue? I used to use lacquer thinner on small parts and tube glue on the BEEFY areas.

4. What's the best material for vacuum forming replacement canopies. I used to use Squadron's thermo-form but that's not available any more.

5. What are the best paints to use. I used to use Humbrol, but can't find them. I never had any luck with Acryls but that was a long time ago, have they gotten any better?

Don't laugh at me I'M TRYING TO COME OUT OF THE STONE AGE, but I'm in Iowa and it's still a little cold here, if you know what I mean !!

No laughing here...Dan has a really BIG whip.....

Most will have different methods and ideas and experience with all types of stuff so the answers should be varied.. my 2 cents worth..

1. I use tamiya putty- real simple to use, also superglue as necessary.
2. When i use it again Tamiya, their tape is good, it's low tack, doesn't leave any marks, not for me anyways...
3.Tamiya Extra Thin, don't sniff it, sh!t stinks but it welds plastic together real well!
4. Never done it ...Pass.
5. I use Tamiya Acrylics, but this will be atougher one for you to decide on....there will be much comment on this one!!:D

Good luck with your builds....There is no DUMB question! ask away......:D
 
Like most of us, I use what is best suited to the job, or available. The answere below are general, as products/brands might change, due to availablility/convenience/requirements.
1. Milliput (2 part epoxy putty) for big jobs and moulding. Italeri tube putty, superglue and home made 'porridge' (varnish talc mix.)
2.Tamiya tape, as per Wayne. Sometimes, for 'rough' masking, ordinary car body masking tape.
3. Humbrol and Revell tube cement, Revell 'Contacta' liquid cement, the same in the applicators with the nozzle, 'Plastic Weld' liquid cement for very fine work, superglue and PVA.
4. Ordinary clear plastic sheet, various gauges, available from same sources as white plastic card. (have alkso used scrap packaging materials)/
5.Humbrol and Xtracolour enamels. Occasionally, but rarely, Vallejo and Tamiys and Revell acrylics. Matt and semi matt varnishes made from Joihnson's Klear (Future) and Tamiya Flat Base mixed as required.
And the only dumb question is the one you don't ask!!
 
Jack, I've used the squadron putty and it worked nice except sometimes it shrinks a bit and leaves some of the seam / gap not totally filled in. I myself got tired of the stench and mess of putty so i've just switched to CA glue full time. Quick and efficient, but we all have our own methods. :D
 
Well I bought this bottle but any CA 'gap filling' or the equivalent works. They even make thin ones for seams and such. I usually just squirt some onto a bottle cap then use a toothpick or pin needle and apply down the seam or into the gap. Wait a few minutes to dry then sand it off. Sometimes I have to repeat an area, but no biggie. I've also found that sometimes attaching the two pieces with CA will minimize the filling as the CA fills it in and the sanding process cleans it all up. Just make sure not to use it on pieces where you might need some 'play' room [wing halves, sometimes even fuselages!]

Pro CA+ Glue 2 oz Medium (gpmgpmr6009) Great Planes Glue Cyanoacrylate (Instant Glue) :D
 
A bit of extra info Jack, in case that's what your question was. CA, or Cyanoacrylate glues, are commonly known as 'Superglue'. There are various brands, all much of a muchness, as well as a thicker gel-type, and super-thin varieties.
 
Thanks for all the help guys. I LOVE THIS FORUM !!

A couple more that just came up:

Do you use primer? and if so What?

What do you use for clear coat? I have used Future for glossy, and Testors' Dullcoat. Are there any better?
 
Thanks for all the help guys. I LOVE THIS FORUM !!

A couple more that just came up:

Do you use primer? and if so What?

What do you use for clear coat? I have used Future for glossy, and Testors' Dullcoat. Are there any better?

Primer - no

Clear coat - any of the following:
For gloss coats: Future / Gunze gloss clear / Polly Scale gloss clear
For matt coats: Future mixed with Tamiya flat base (3-1 for totally flat, 10-1 for Satin), Gunze Matt, Polly scale matt

For your earlier qustions:
1. Squadron white putty, CA glue or PVA around canopies. Depends on the application.
2. Tamiya tape or MicroMask liquid mask
3. Testors (the black container with the needle applicator), CA (fast and slow drying), PVA, Clear part adhesive or MicroKrystal Klear - depends on the application
4. No idea - never do vacuforming
5. Paint choice? Ohmigod - talk about opening a can of worms. I use acrylics exclusively and have used the following: Model Master Acryl, Polly Scale, Gunze, Tamiya, Vallejo and LifeColor. Of all of those my favs are Polly Scale and Lifecolor. Model Master Acryl is a hot button. The formula that Testors used has changed over time and according to some folks it doesn't always give reliably consistant airbrushing results. (Bad QC at the factory is the claim) I've not had any problems with it myself, but in some circles it is REALLY hated.
 
Hawk, i've recently found myself using primer again just for seam and panel line checks. I must of wasted so much money on those little tins they sell from the model companies. Since you live in the states, run to the nearest home depot or walmart and look in the home decor for a primer can. For me, I went to walmart and bought the krylon gray primer can for $3. Nice big can with a rotating nozzle and it covers and applies beautifully. I'm starting to believe model company products are jacked up and not a necessity.. that also regards thinners!
 
Primer - no

Clear coat - any of the following:
For gloss coats: Future / Gunze gloss clear / Polly Scale gloss clear
For matt coats: Future mixed with Tamiya flat base (3-1 for totally flat, 10-1 for Satin), Gunze Matt, Polly scale matt

For your earlier qustions:
1. Squadron white putty, CA glue or PVA around canopies. Depends on the application.
2. Tamiya tape or MicroMask liquid mask
3. Testors (the black container with the needle applicator), CA (fast and slow drying), PVA, Clear part adhesive or MicroKrystal Klear - depends on the application
4. No idea - never do vacuforming
5. Paint choice? Ohmigod - talk about opening a can of worms. I use acrylics exclusively and have used the following: Model Master Acryl, Polly Scale, Gunze, Tamiya, Vallejo and LifeColor. Of all of those my favs are Polly Scale and Lifecolor. Model Master Acryl is a hot button. The formula that Testors used has changed over time and according to some folks it doesn't always give reliably consistant airbrushing results. (Bad QC at the factory is the claim) I've not had any problems with it myself, but in some circles it is REALLY hated.
What is PVA?
 
Hawk, i've recently found myself using primer again just for seam and panel line checks. I must of wasted so much money on those little tins they sell from the model companies. Since you live in the states, run to the nearest home depot or walmart and look in the home decor for a primer can. For me, I went to walmart and bought the krylon gray primer can for $3. Nice big can with a rotating nozzle and it covers and applies beautifully. I'm starting to believe model company products are jacked up and not a necessity.. that also regards thinners!

I have been using the Krylon Fusion, a little more pricey but great adhesion and dries super fast !!
 
What is PVA?

Polyvinyl acetate aka White glue. Like Elmers. :) Can be used in place of Clear parts glue for canopies and similiar parts. I've heard of people uisng CA (super glue) on canopies as well BUT only if the canopy has been coated in Future first. Haven't tried that myself yet.
 
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Thank's guys for so much advise. I am to coming back after a long pause. I can see some stuff did not change, but then again there is a lot of new products from Japan and Europe.
 

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