CORSAIR F4U-4; 1/48, Revell

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The Vallejo 70,898 Dark Sea Blue Model Color FS-35042 and the 71.300 Glossy Sea Blue Model Air FS-15042 are the same indeed. The difference is that the fist one is the matt paint while the second is the gloss one. Therefore the first colour is also known as the Non specular Sea Blue. The Tamiya XF-17 Sea Blue is the FS34058 and is considered as a colour of a little too greenish tone by many of guys assembling models. So I would stay with the Vallejo 1.300 Glossy Sea Blue Model Air FS-15042.It is a good representation of the ANA 623 paint.

The Vallejo 70,838 Emerald isn't of a good tone. I would say the Vallejo 70.891 Green Medium is fine and I would follow that one. The Tamiya X-28 Park Green also look good.

As far as the final finish of the plane is concerned I would say it should be gloss. But the semi-gloss sounds good too.
Thanks for confirming Wojtek, I will get the gloss option from Vallejo and compare the most similar green between the X-28 of Tamiya and the green medium of Vallejo.
The finish will be gloss and with a bit of weathering we will see that it looks good. You have offered me a very complete and clear explanation.

Muchas gracias profesor! :thumbup:
 
Lovely work so far!

Damn Luis that is looking really fantastic !!!! Love the prop spinner :)

Agree with Brian. I like your innovative approaches.
I am very grateful for your comments Dr. Huge, Brian and Andy
Greetings with affection to the United Kingdom, USA and Canada.

The TEE process is found in the wing assembly.
I gave a general review to all the parts of the fuselage that were adhered, with putty and sanding (my wings are missing, but the glue is drying and I will have to give a slight application of putty), ... among other details.

In an opportunity I have, I'll send the photos ...

Feliz inicio de semana para todos y gracias por sus visitas :thumbup:
 
Hello again; have been some days and little advance, but I have pending some photos to share. :)

Air intakes ready to mask and attach the part to the fuselage ...

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The tire / hook well was masked, with wet napkin strips and a liquid mask to seal the edges and the interior of the gates ... :arrow::-({|=

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I really struggled a little to assemble the wings, ... I had to try to find the best position and that both wings were parallel and symmetrical ... that characteristic and unique fold of the wings of the Corsair, is something that I had to take care of that there were no errors (at least not very noticeable) :visitor:

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A "small group of fissures" had to be covered with putty in the union of the wings ...

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Now we can see a future "whistling death" in process :firestarter:!!

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I'll prepare other photos and return :thumbup:
 
Thanks Geo, says the saying: "need is the mother of inventiveness" :toothy7:

There were a couple of details that I saw in this photo (some kind of valves or plugs) in the drop tanks ...

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... and my tanks were updated ...

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I take advantage of a recent idea and I started working on that Hug nose
... that the photos explain to them ...

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So that nose is already ready to go into the painting process. :walk:

... so far what I have in photos to share.

I decided to attach the windshield, but also to include those small panels with buttons that are on the IP and the sides of the gun sight ...

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But I'm barely working on that.

"details, details, ... life is built of small and varied details" \\:D/

Saludos y hasta la próxima
Luis Carlos :thumbup:
 
Nice work Luis.
You've probably already got it noted, but don't forget to straighten the front edge of the canopy frame, as shown by the white arrow in the pic.


View attachment 382372
Gracias por el interés y tu comentario Terry.

Now that I'm going to put the windshield; I'm seeing the best way to solve that gap.
I can think of three first options:
1) Use a styrene strip.
2) Mold with green putty or something similar and then sand.
3) Adhere the windshield and fill the gap with MKK as many times as necessary to evenly level the crossbar.

In that order my options; can you suggest me ?, any other ideas?


Gracias y saludos :thumbup:
 
I think I would sand-back the starboard side of the vertical frame (shown by the red line), to make it even all round, and fit the windscreen after trial-fitting.
The small joint on the top of the vertical frame can be filled with a little CA adhesive, and sanded smooth (before attaching the transparent part), and then fill the joint around the base of the windscreen transparency, using PVA, with repeated use of this as required, to blend it in.


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I'll try it as you suggest Terry. :thumbright:
The important thing is to see that the windshield does not go far behind once I sanding that starboard side of the vertical frame.
It can work like that.
Thanks my old chap :salute:

:thumbup:
 
I took advantage of a time I have before an appointment, to check the position of the windshield.
So I took some photos because, seeing it well, I think the gap is small enough, to try the third option I proposed in post # 274. And give it the necessary hardness with brush strokes of cyanoacrylate.
What do you think?

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The right side of the windshield fits perfectly, without having to sand it...

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My pulse and trace with the mouse, do not help, but the base of the windshield that rests on the front, does the natural curbature of the plane.

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Could it be that with the necessary layers of MKK it could be enough?

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Thank you for your recommendations.

In the meantime I can work on the little boards I'll ride in the PI, paint that matte black under the windshield and mask the windshield before deciding how to mount it.

Estoy atento a novedades. Gracias :thumbup:
 
Maybe fill the gap with stretched, clear sprue (or even normal stretched sprue), carefully attached first with PVA, and then liquid poly cement, and then fill any depression with PVA or MKK. The joint at the base of the windscreen can also be smoothly blended with PVA /MKK and, once painted, it should all look fine.

EDIT: I forgot to add - also remove the heavy rivets around the canopy frame.
 

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