CORSAIR F4U-4; 1/48, Revell

[Robert Porter]

Really nicel

 

[Crimea_River]

Nice work L-C.

 

[turbo]

Looks great Luis! Like the scratch work

 

[SANCER]

It gets interesting and I like how the old kit evolves.
Tomorrow I hope to finish with the contours of the air intakes and paint them (it will be easier to do it before attaching it to the fuselage).
There is little time I can devote, but I take advantage of my therapy.

Thank you all for your compliments.

Good night friends.

 

[Airframes]

Nice work Luis.

 

[SANCER]

Hello, gentlemen.

My intention is to apply the Primer to all the necessary pieces at one time; so I must have all the pieces ready and this implies:
- SCARs rockets. Ready
- Drop tanks. Ready
- Wings with navigation lights masked. I need to attach them to the middle section of the landing gear.
- Central part of the landing gear; I already have the air intakes well sanded and painted inside. I will still let them dry and tomorrow I protect them with tape or tak or liquid mask.
- To the fuselage I still have to seal the bubble with MKK; add weight to the cowling before closing it with the engine, ... and it was when I realized that the tube that holds the propeller must be inside already installed !!

From the beginning I knew that I would not use the propeller of the kit, but I would make it with an acrylic to simulate that it is spinning at full speed ...
Finally I gave a use to a broken tray that I kept long ago, ... and from here I will create my propeller.

A simple step by step that I hope is clear and someone can serve as another option for your propellers.

What you need to start ... (which I thought)

I marked the circumference with the cutting compass and I began to sanding and sanding to clean that part as best as possible and then give it a polish with Novus 2

Once clean, I started to turn and turn with the cutting compass, being careful not to move the center punch.

Before releasing the circle, I had to be able to hold the circle to a small screw mandrel, to reuse my drill as a lathe and to be able to work the future propeller...

I found in my tool these plastic washers that will be of excellent use to me, since it will not damage the acrylic by attaching it to the mandrel.

...just what I needed...

So I went back to continue to delve into the cut of the circle, and once you started to see the other side, I was easier and safer with a mini saw finish the cut.

With the propeller mounted on my lathe, I sanded the end of the circle to smooth the cut and I pass the fine sandpaper again, but now while the propeller is turning ...

Then with a swab dipped in Tamiya Lemon Yelow X-8 paint diluted to 50%, I made the silhouette leaving by the tips. Same with a bit of Clear Red X-27, where they make their circle the labels of the blades.

... does not look bad, right? I have the option to erase everything with a cotton swab with alcohol and try to make it better.
Well, I still have to think about how I'm going to work at the tip of the propeller (the spinner) to mount the acrylic circle.

My plan is to leave the tube that will hold the propeller already installed, then glue the whole structure of the aircraft (wings, rear stabilizer, motor) to start the process of painting with the Primer.

I hope you like it ...

Hasta pronto

 

[Wurger]

 

[Robert Porter]

Nice way to make your "spinning" prop. Only suggestion would be a bit more definition for the yellow tips and make it more consistent in color as they tend to blur but not get lighter towards the tip or inside.

 

[Airframes]

Nicely done Luis.

 

[SANCER]

Nice way to make your "spinning" prop. Only suggestion would be a bit more definition for the yellow tips and make it more consistent in color as they tend to blur but not get lighter towards the tip or inside.

I noticed that too, Robert; it is very likely to make another attempt to make the appearance better. Gracias por comentarlo.

I share some images and the different ways in which you can see the propellers. Surely have to see the angle of the shot, the lighting and how is the "artistic" design of the blades.

The first and last one are my favorites.

I have seen in "somewhere" how to make with airbrush those shadows that can be seen in the photos 3, 4 and 5 It is probable that I also try it.

Has anyone done something similar and can you show us?

Best regards.

 

[Robert Porter]

I have tried this, my first results were less than satisfactory but I think I will get it over time.

 

[Robert Porter]

 

[Robert Porter]

Both of those were in my "Take a look at someday file."

 

[SANCER]

The latter is the one I saw "somewhere" and I never found it again.
Many thanks Robert, It will be very useful and sure I will achieve a better appearance.

 

[Wurger]

 

[Airframes]

Note that the 'shadows' - the blurred prop blades - are only seen in photographs, due to the shutter speed used on the camera.
In 'real life', the blades are not normally visible, and either a disc will be visible, or nothing at all except perhaps the prop tip colour forming the disc.

 

[SANCER]

Note that the 'shadows' - the blurred prop blades - are only seen in photographs, due to the shutter speed used on the camera.
In 'real life', the blades are not normally visible, and either a disc will be visible, or nothing at all except perhaps the prop tip colour forming the disc.

That is very understandable information because the information you get is from photographs (normally) and when we pretend to display the miniature replica, the intention of us is to make our models as close to reality.

I believe that I will take your comment as a valid suggestion. Learning and knowledge does not rest ...
Thank you my dear Master Terry.

Gracias amigo mío

 

[SANCER]

Una consulta y solicitud de consejo para mis amigos expertos!!


I'm looking for the right colors for my TEE.

I do not have them in my existence. (store)

I see these options in Vallejo:
70,898 Dark Sea Blue Model Color FS-35042
71.300 Glossy Sea Blue Model Air FS-15042
(the colors that FS displays are practically the same)
And in Tamiya:
X-17 Sea Blue (does not specify FS reference)

Regarding the green color of the fringes:
Vallejo.- 70,838 Emerald or 70.891 Green Medium both of Model Color
Tamiya.- X-28 Park Green
(I did not find FS reference)

As you can see, I feel very safe applying acrylic paints with the airbrush and I like Vallejo and Tamiya preferably, although I have also used Humbrol acrylics.
I do not use enamel paints with my airbrushes.

I do not care so much about blue, but the tone of green, I see it more complicated.
I appeal to your knowledge and experience [-o< and can recommend what I can use and / or mix (if necessary)

Another question: The exterior painting of this version is in bright or semi-glossy colors. Because in recent and old photographs the colors are bright.
(in case I have to give a final finish with glossy, semi-gloss or matt varnish)

Thank you in advance for the time you can devote to commenting and responding to it.

Greetings.

 

[fubar57]

Here is a PDF for Tamiya mixes. I can't verify them so you'll have to trial and error them and compare them to chip charts. For me, close enough is good enough

http://www.aerohistorians.org/Other/Tamiya_paint_mixes_4-17.pdf

 

[Wurger]

The Vallejo 70,898 Dark Sea Blue Model Color FS-35042 and the 71.300 Glossy Sea Blue Model Air FS-15042 are the same indeed. The difference is that the fist one is the matt paint while the second is the gloss one. Therefore the first colour is also known as the Non specular Sea Blue. The Tamiya XF-17 Sea Blue is the FS34058 and is considered as a colour of a little too greenish tone by many of guys assembling models. So I would stay with the Vallejo 1.300 Glossy Sea Blue Model Air FS-15042.It is a good representation of the ANA 623 paint.

The Vallejo 70,838 Emerald isn't of a good tone. I would say the Vallejo 70.891 Green Medium is fine and I would follow that one. The Tamiya X-28 Park Green also look good.

As far as the final finish of the plane is concerned I would say it should be gloss. But the semi-gloss sounds good too.