<> **** DONE: 1/32 Corsair F4U-1A - WW1 / WW2 over Water.

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Thanks muchly guys and welcome aboard Fyreman :thumbright:

Looking great! What masking tape do you use for prop tips? I use Tamiya but have had bleed under a couple of times? And I had one other question, the Montex Masks, do they or anyone else make stencils in the appropriate scales for 1:48 and 1:32 that are reusable for things like insignia and codes etc? I have seen a lot of single use stencils but I would not mind spending more for something I could reuse.

I just use good old Tamiya tape too Robert. I measure the distance to the prop tip to make sure they are all consistent and then fold the tape back on itself behind the prop tip so you can line up the edges of the tape so that it is the same on each side. Then I just grab the prop tip and tape between my fingers and give it a good firm press to make sure it is laid down well and there is no bleed.

Apparently you can reuse Montex masks and I have put them back on the backing sheet for this purpose. I don't think you could use them more than 2 or 3 times though. Maketar now make a wide range of insignia and number stencils on kabuki tape (in addition to vinyl) which they claim you can reuse indefinitely. The only thing with kabuki tape is that I imagine it might be tricky to position as it is not very translucent.

montex stencils web.jpg


Stencils and masks are definitely more of a hassle but I must say they give a far superior result to decals, especially in the larger scales, and I'll be using them again.
 
There was a company called Ad Astra Masks that I used once as well but a Google search shows they don't seem to be around any more.
 
Thanks Kirby!

Appreciate the info. My best guess is I am not pressing firmly when I apply the tape. May even use a toothpick to firmly rub the edge next time. I have some Montex Masks but have not used them, the Kabuki tape ones sound interesting!
 
Gorgeous work there Kirby! I agree with the others in that the masked markings are noticeably superior to what you get with decals. The spray effects over the old markings are especially well done. Are you going to replicate that hard-edged staining or repair marks in that reference photo of 883? I've re-used Montex masks and find them worth saving. The only trouble I run into is when mask loses its transparency, making it more difficult to place.
 
Beaut job Kirby - but can you put it 'on hold' for a week, so that i can quickly catch up after my return from Holland ?
Sorry, what was that ? I caught the 'off', but couldn't quite make out what preceded it !
 
Beaut job Kirby - but can you put it 'on hold' for a week, so that i can quickly catch up after my return from Holland ?
Sorry, what was that ? I caught the 'off', but couldn't quite make out what preceded it !

That was "duck" Terry! I've got a model show this weekend so am making a mad lunge for the finishing line - don't know if I'm going to make it...

As I mentioned in my last post, decals have been applied but they're only small stencils and markings so I haven't bothered with any pics. At this stage the model is looking a bit "contrasty" with all the insignia and chipping, etc, so I decided to apply a light filter as the first step in the post-paint weathering. I used diluted Ammo winter streaking grime which is a green-grey colour and used it selectively, leaving the odd panel unfiltered. I took some pics, but the subtle filter doesn't really show up well to the camera so won't bother posting them.

These land-based Corsairs got pretty filthy with lots of fading and stains and splatters, so I've decided to try some salt fading, especially after seeing John's lovely result with his P-38. I wetted the model down with warm water with a little dish soap to break the surface tension and applied lake salt by crushing it between my fingers just like you do when cooking! I brushed the salt off areas where I don't want the effect like the fuel stains.

salt fading1 web.jpg


Once the salt was dry I sprayed a highly dilute (about 10% paint to thinners) mix of Humbrol Light Grey and Light Aircraft Grey enamels. I helped along drying of this coat with a hair dryer before washing off the salt under a running tap and then repeating the whole procedure, but this time spraying a mix of Humbrol Black and Dark Earth enamels. I think it has worked quite well...

salt fading2 web.jpg


salt fading3 web.jpg


I left some more conspicuous staining around the hydraulic fluid and starter cell access hatches and where the crew would refuel the main tank from the port on top of the fuselage.

salt fading4 web.jpg


You can see some crystallised salt appearing in the panel lines near the canopy and the wing root. I'll remove that with a damp brush before moving on to the next steps...

Thanks for stopping by guys.
 
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That, my friend, is truly magnificent.

The GB could be extended a bit if you are close to finishing.

Thanks all and thanks for the compliment Andy. And yes, it would be great if we could have a bit of an extension. I'm aiming to finish by Saturday but looming commitments mean this might not happen unfortunately, in which case I should be done by the end of next week if that would work?

Anyhoo, small update, did a bit of work on the fuel stain. She's starting to look nice and filthy now...

fuel stain web.jpg
 
Beautiful weathering work Kirby! Be very vigilant about removing the excess salt as even cleaning can deposit the salt into unlikely places.
 

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