**** DONE: 1/48 Fiat G.55S Torpedo Fighter - Mediterranean Theater of Operations

Username: JKim
First name: John
Category: Advanced
Scale: 1/48
Manufacturer: Flying Machines
Model Type: Fiat G.55 Silurante (Torpedo Fighter)
Aftermarket addons: Out of Box

Wikipedia said:

The Regia Aeronautica employed torpedo bomber with success in the early war years, with the three-engine, SIAI-Marchetti SM.79 Sparviero medium bomber inflicting considerable losses on Allied shipping in the Mediterranean Sea. By late 1942 the aging Sparviero was facing continually improving Allied fighters and anti aircraft defences.leading to the General staff exploring the idea of using a fighter aircraft for torpedo attacks. A fighter operating from Italian coasts with an operational range of 300–400 km (190-250 mi), would be capable of delivering a torpedo at high speed and evade enemy fighters or engage them after the attack run.

Fiat was asked to begin studies for a G.55 conversion to carry a 680 kg (1,500 lb) Whitehead torpedo, a shorter and more compact version of the standard weapon used by the SM.79. With the decision to develop a G.57, whose specifications included the capability of carrying torpedoes, all similar work on the G.55 torpedo fighter was suspended.
Later, after the G.57 project was dropped, and given the ANR's continuing need for an aircraft that could replace the SM.79, the ANR engineers undertook the task of converting the Centauro for the torpedo attack role. A production aircraft (military serial number MM. 91086) was modified to carry a 920 kg (2,030 lb), 5.46 m (17.91 ft) long torpedo. The radiator for the engine liquid cooler, positioned in the fuselage belly, under the cockpit area, was split in two, gaining a 90 cm (35 in) slot where two racks were mounted to carry the torpedo. The tailwheel strut was lengthened and equipped with a strengthened shock absorber, and a protective cone was added in front of the tailwheel. The two 12.7 mm (.5 in) Breda-SAFAT machine guns were removed, leaving the aircraft with the three 20 mm cannons only as fixed armament. Weight: 2,600-4,100 kg[17]

The aircraft, designated G.55S, first flew in August 1944 and was successfully tested in January 1945,[10] piloted by Adriano Mantelli. Despite the cumbersome external load, performance was good and the handling acceptable. The ANR ordered a pre-series of 10 examples and a production series of 100 aircraft, but the conclusion of the war put an end to the project. The G.55S prototype survived the war and, after being converted back to the Serie I standard, it became the first G.55 to be delivered to the newly formed Aeronautica Militare Italiana (AMI).

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A bit of a good news/BAD news start to this build. The GOOD news is that the kit arrived FAST. I was expecting it later this week/early next week but a cardboard box was waiting at the front door when I came home from work. The box itself was a bit of concern... crumpled on one end and wasn't holding it's shape... more like a collapsible cardboard sleeve than a proper box. Opening showed the effects of the packaging deficiencies... model box was also crumpled on one end.


More concern... when opening the model box which is an end-opener ala Revell... I heard the light clatter of loose parts. Hoping for the best... maybe a few parts came off their sprues... I was disappointed to find the source of the clattering noise...


The canopy has been been snapped in two in addition of coming off the sprue... worst case scenario!

I took a closer look to see what could be done...


In terms of a broken part, it couldn't be worse. I don't see how I can get on using these parts without having a noticeable (and probably nasty) seam in the canopy. Unless someone can convince me otherwise, I am ruling out sending it back to the retailer (modelhobbies.co.uk). I just don't see how it would be worth it from a shipping cost/time lost perspective. Being a limited run kit, I'm dubious of the manufacturer helping out but I'm going to try and contact them anyway.

At this point, I am planning on trying to repair the canopy and just accepting it as one of those things. The canopy itself has lots of framing so it will be a little less noticeable than with a bubble or other type of canopy. Maybe displaying it in the open position will further mask the deficiencies. Here is the canopy held together with tape...


So... is there a good way to cement clear pieces together which will minimize the seam? I was thinking of using Tamiya liquid cement and sanding/polishing as best as I can (which will be difficult given the location of the crack... will be hard to keep it from cracking again).

I should take a look at all of the other parts to make sure nothing else has been damaged. A sprue inventory should be a good way to do this.

This is my first "limited production" kit and I'm really looking forward to seeing how smaller companies like Flying Machines stack up against the big name players like Tamiya, Hasegawa, Eduard, etc. Like I mentioned, the box opens on the ends which I am NOT a fan of. I much prefer top-opening boxes since it's easier to store and access the sprues as the build progresses. The instructions are black and white and fairly well illustrated although the color call-outs are in a foreign language and based on a paint manufacturer that I'm not familiar with.


This kit comes with an ample selection of both resin and photo-etched parts. It looks like the resin is reserved primarily for the cockpit assembly. Interestingly enough, plastic parts for the cockpit are also supplied.


The decal sheet is physically small but contains markings for three aircraft (two Series 1 and one Series S). I am planning to build the torpedo fighter (Series S) which carries a characteristically Italian mottled finish but there is also a very interesting tricolor splinter scheme offered. The PE parts are divided between a sheet for pre-painted cockpit details and a sheet for other details like intake screens



The main fuselage pieces... the front fuselage is of a modular design, most likely to make it easier to offer different versions of the Centauro. Series 0 aircraft had four fuselage mounted guns, two in the upper cowl and two in the lower cowl. Series 1 aircraft replaced the lower cowling guns with wing guns. Although the instructions and box artwork contradict this, most references I've seen state that the Series S had their cowl weaponry removed to save weight. The gun troughs are in an area that is absent of panel lines so that'll make removing them easier (if I decided to go that route).



Lots of redundancy in this kit... there is another version of the fuselage included but the instructions make no mention of this. The two style of fuselage look similar but I detected some minor differences in the rudder. Molding quality looks good... finely recessed panel lines with some raised panels and subtle fabric effects on the control surfaces.


I believe this sprue is specifically for the torpedo version. Since the G.55S was designed to carry a torpedo down its centerline, the centrally located radiator was removed and replaced with twin radiators located under the wings.


You can compare that with the Series 1 wing bottoms that has the central radiator...


A closer look at the panel lines on the wing and wheel well detail...



The rest of the parts are contained on this last sprue...


A quick check of exhaust pipes and gun barrels to see how usable they will be. The exhaust profiles are a bit skinny and may be difficult to bore out but I'll give it a shot. Note the flash on the small parts. Not as clean as a Tamiya kit in this regard but that is to be expected, I suppose. Looks like there will lots of trimming and sanding to remove mold seams.



The prop has some weird texture and bumps that will need to be smoothed out.

That sure sucks John. I've never heard of the model maker before. I'm not sure if this will help you or not but for all my clear parts, I use jigsaw puzzle glue. The stuff dries clear. While I haven't tried it with this, my second brand, I was able to safely lift up a 1/48 Spitfire model by the glued on, open canopy alone. Hopefully others will pop in with a better solution.



Geo

Thanks George! That's the kind of info that I'm looking for. I've fired emails to both the retailer (modelhobbies.co.uk) and the kit manufacturer (MPM/Flying Machines/Special Hobby) in hopes of obtaining a replacement canopy but I'm not going to count on it. I'm hopeful that the repaired canopy won't look TOO bad.

nother solution would falcon kits have this brings the canopy in clear-vax

https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/FNCV3748



or if you prefer me I have a canopy of g55 of smer leftovers in the kit came with 2 and I only use 1 as well as a set of decals but though these are the centaur.
if you are interested send me your address by MP and tomorrow morning I sent it.

destrozas said:

nother solution would falcon kits have this brings the canopy in clear-vax

https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/FNCV3748



or if you prefer me I have a canopy of g55 of smer leftovers in the kit came with 2 and I only use 1 as well as a set of decals but though these are the centaur.
if you are interested send me your address by MP and tomorrow morning I sent it.

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Thanks for the kind offer Sergio but I don't want to put you through any undue effort, especially if it is unnecessary. Surprisingly, I got an almost instantaneous email response from the retailer (modelhobbies.co.uk) saying that a request for a replacement canopy will be sent to the importer. While it is short of saying a new canopy is on the way, it is encouraging to get a positive response so hopefully, I'll be getting a new canopy via modelhobbies.

Lousy news John. Nothing like having the pleasure of opening a new arrival dashed like that.

Good on you Sergio for a possible plan B.

Plan C could be a Squadron Vac Formed canopy.

Here we have a proverb:
"who offers what is not obligated to more" do of heart, behold done what I think good friends and are the first to volunteer to help and that's what I help where I can, I'm glad that I solved the problem lies, in my revell never even answered me when I buy the BV222 and I arrived without transparent.

I encourage you want to see more advances in this device

John, in my experience, trying to fix that canopy with glue, no mater how clear it dries, won't get you an invisible seam. It's the condition of the mating surface that matters most, and it's almost always too rough to not notice it.

I agree - best solution if possible is a replacement canopy (and good for Model Hobbies on taking up the problem so quickly), or a vac-form canopy. The latter is especially useful, in general, for open canopies.

This will be another wonderful project of yours, my dear John!

It gives me pleasure to know that you had quick response and will get a new canopy. It's the best thing that could happen, like Geo and Sergio, I also share you another option that can help you and serve in another occasion.

There is a product of Microscale Industries, Inc. (you probably already have it)

MICRO KRISTAL KLEAR:



I bought it for small windows in my Heinkel 111, in addition to bond the transparent parts to the model and TO UNITE TRANSPARENT PIECES TOGETHER. and I used it for three options in the same plane !!



... the transparent part of the lower airplane cabin, I accidentally broke into 2 parts (where the angle is formed), ... after unite and wait for it to dry, plunged into the Future, then I joined the repaired to the aircraft body, then paint ... and Voalá




I have greatly benefited to this product. I hope you find it useful.

Well ... while awaiting your new piece, I'm lookout for what you can keep offering.

Saludos amigo

Luis Carlos

I've started construction on this plane. Haven't attempted a canopy repair just yet... I've been thinking about and have run a few tests on adhesives. The best results using the adhesives I have on hand has been two-part epoxy. The trouble is that it has a long cure time and until the epoxy starts to set, it really has no adhesive properties so it will need to be held carefully in place for about 15-20 minutes.

In the meantime, I've done some preliminary work on some small parts. First up were the wing cannons. Prominent seam lines and sprue connectors needed to be cleaned up and the barrel ends hollowed out. You can see the before/after comparison below. It looks ok but I'm considering cutting off the barrels altogether and replacing with steel tubing.


Next up is the exhaust pipes. The Fiat powerplant is based on the Daimler Benz DB601, so the exhausts are similar to the Bf109. The kit exhaust pipes feature a narrow oval opening which makes hollowing the ends out a slow and deliberate process. You can see in the middle shot, how the openings are started with three small circles reamed out with a sharp Xacto blade.





The cockpit is comprised of a mixture of pre-colored photo etched parts and finely detailed resin pieces. I tried a bottle of Gator Grip glue that I recently picked up to attach the PE bits but I didn't have much success with it due to a lack of adhesive tackiness. I'm not sure what I was doing wrong so I ended up resorting to Zap-A-Gap CA glue.



The seat assembly features a crazy array of harnesses and chains that I'll attempt to attach after painting the seat. I destroyed the kit-supplied gun sight when I was trying to cut it off the casting block so I'll have to dig in my spares to find a replacement.

Great work John. I hate hollowing out exhausts but they sure look good.

good, nice job tomorrow I approach national postal and sending you

So the radiator was split or was it just moved to starboard?

Doin good!

Capt. Vick said:

So the radiator was split or was it just moved to starboard?

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The radiator was split.
Tomorrow I will see if I have any further information on this "silurante" and I will post them.
Alberto

Yep, Gator Glue can be a little tricky. I usually use it as a temporary glue and then go back and add CA glue as needed. It can start to set up kind of quickly and if you move the pieces after it has, then it is usually best to scrape the glue off and start over because it just doesn't seem to want to bite again after the initial set up. The nice thing about it is, it cleans up with water and dries clear and if you have to scrape it off and start over, that's easy too.