**** DONE: 1/48 P-39 Airacobra - Allied Manufactured Aircraft

[fubar57]

Thanks Terry, kind of a mountain/molehill thing I think. On the port side I should be able to snip off the locating pins and then span some plastic strip across the mounting holes. The starboard side hatch is made up from two pieces. I haven't test fit them yet but but barring a descent fit, these can be fitted after painting.

Geo

 

[rochie]

good stuff Geo.

the fit on those engine cover panels was excellent on my kit !

 

[imalko]

Good choice and good start Geo. Never seen that kind of paint scheme. Will look cool when finished.

 

[fubar57]

Thanks guys, just waiting for the little bits to dry and I can get the innards squared away.

This is what we are dealing with, starting yesterday and ending Monday. Should get lots of modlin' done...

Geo

 

[Airframes]

I see you have a little bit of snow !
Place a 'backing' strip inside the port fuselage slot, snip off the locating pins on that side's exhausts, and fit them to the strip later. The Starboard side should also fit in easily after painting etc.

 

[Catch22]

Looks good Geo. We got hit pretty good here too, but yours seems a lot worse.

 

[Crimea_River]

Good stuff Geo. I find that masking and painting the exhausts after the model is painted is really no big deal. The key to painting white is to go in very thin layers. I'd suggest you go with a grey primer so you can see what your white is doing.

We got a touch of snow here, nothing like you have. The interesting thing is that at noon, it was -12C in Calgary and +16 in Milk River!

 

[fubar57]

Thanks guys. Snow has stopped, a bobcat came and removed about 22cm/9"ish and then I shoveled about 7cm/3"ish later on. On the modeling front, innards are done and are setting up in the fuselage. After looking at the photo, I'm pondering about remove the decal. I did paint and etch the dials previously in case this didn't work out.

Added a strip of plastic to accept the exhaust after painting is complete...

Geo

 

[Crimea_River]

Looks OK from here but you're closer.

 

[fubar57]

Thanks Andy. Rear deck is glued to one side and setting up. A test drive of the exhaust shows that some plastic needs to be removed to bring it in a bit closer.

Test fitting the fuselage halves together shows a really good fit which is great because most of the panel lines are raised.

Geo

 

[Wurger]

 

[Airframes]

Good stuff Geo.

 

[Catch22]

Nice to know it fits ok.

 

[fubar57]

Thanks gentlemen. Fuselage to wing fit, not too bad. Almost as good as the Hasegawa kit I'm doing in the S2F section. Some plastic and putty...

There's no way around the next step in the instructions, the nose gear goes in now. I tried cutting off one attachment lug and belabor it into position with the fuselage tape together but no go.

The reason the nose panel had to be closed.

Geo

 

[Catch22]

Nice Geo.

 

[Airframes]

Ah, screw-powered !
Coming along nicely Geo.

 

[at6]

Nose weights are more essential than opening panels any way. There was a P-39 on a local golf course by FYI when I was a child up until my teen years. It was removed some time in the late 60s to early 70s. The 39 was all yellow with WW II markings, and had been used as a target for gunnery training when FYI was known as Hammer Field. Look forward to your finished model.

 

[fubar57]

Thanks all. Final gluing on the fuselage and then the wings on later tonight.

Geo

 

[Catch22]

I see you also use that ProWeld, great stuff! My bottle's almost empty though, and they're out of business.

 

[fubar57]

It's a new glue for me and i just opened the bottle for this build. I've already had a seam pop open(photo above), maybe the stuff is old? Normally, for parts that get attached with plugs, ie: instrument panels seats, landing gear and such, I'll use good old fashioned tube glue. For the seams like wings and fuselages, I'll use Tamiya Liquid, but I just ran out.

Geo