John here is a shot of the rack and the fuel tank for the late Bf 109G with the attaching mechanizm seen. I hope it can be useful.
**** DONE: GB-36 1/32 Bf109G-10 Erla - Axis Manufactured Aircraft of WWII
- Thread starter JKim
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John here is a shot of the rack and the fuel tank for the late Bf 109G with the attaching mechanizm seen. I hope it can be useful.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Getting lots of "help" now!
- Thread starter
- #123
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
It is my understanding that the notch in the canopy was only present in certain retro-fit conversions to the Erla Haube canopy style. Based on this photo posted by another modeler, you can see the genesis of where this notch originated...
However, this notch was not present on non-converted G-10's. I was told that Erla-produced G-10's did not have this notch. And photos of Hartmann's G-10 confirm this...
The Hartmann G-10 photos also confirm the absence of the heat duct assembly that attaches to the rear of the canopy armor plate., which can be seen in the photo below. I am leaving this part off of my build. Note the lack of the notch.
I am assuming that the photo below is an earlier 109G (probably G-6) retrofitted with an Erla Haube canopy.
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- #124
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
The rack pictures are very helpful, Wojtek! The canopy pictures too, especially for those that want to pose the canopy open. Thank you!
fubar57
General
Nice
Humm I have to agree on the Erla haube,John. Here is the Erla one and the one for retro-fitting It can be noticed that the retro-fitting one required the additional parts at the back of the cockpit. However both of them seem to have the falange but the notch was for the retro-fitted one only.
mikewint
Captain
Very very nice and with an opened cockpit work that will be seen and appreciated
- Thread starter
- #128
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks guys! Some tinkering around with the drop tank... I adjusted the strap so that it met higher toward the rack to better represent the hanging position.
The drop tank was then given a gloss coat... decals applied... another gloss coat... and a dark pastel wash.
I'm trying to wrap up the seam between the resin gun breech and the fuselage. Panel lines have been cleaned up and a few lines of rivets have been added.
Ok... I think I'm ready for the big moment. I've been adjusting the join areas between the engine cowling and fuselage for some time now. Due to the extra width of the AMUR Reaver cowling versus the kit cowling area, I cannot get a flush surface-to-surface fit but I want to make sure that I get good contact areas around the perimeter so that the cowling is solidly joined to the fuselage. The last thing I want is the cowling to wiggle around after putting in the work to address the transition areas.
I have to seat the engine cowling and squeeze the bottom rear edge at the same time. I was very hesitant on trying to use CA glue for this join. I could see lots of bad things happening... fumbling around as some of the glue dries... locking the cowling into a bad position. So based on some recommendations, I picked up quick set 2-part epoxy, JB Kwik Weld, at my local hardware store. It sets up reasonably fast at an advertised 6 minutes which would give me enough time to fiddle the fit but not too long to have to squeeze that bottom rear edge together. I tested the stuff to see how it works... seemed to set in the advertised 4-6 minutes. After 8 minutes, the bond was strong and the glue was hard enough to trim the excess off with a knife and do a bit of sanding.
No time to take pictures during the gluing process but the engine cowling is now secured into place! I was very liberal with the glue application and some of it squeezed out to the surface. At about 8 minutes in, when the bottom rear edge seemed to be secure, I took a scribing tool and removed the dried excess glue. It came off quite easily as it was fully cured.
From this angle you can see the big overhang that will need to be filled in.
As I had hoped, the overhang on the starboard side is much less of an issue as a result of the squeeze.
With that hurdle crossed, I can now start thinking about how to attack the transition areas, especially since the wings have not been added yet. I'm looking to do as much corrective work as I can without the wings getting in the way.
Final little detail... the spinner has been given a flat coat.
The drop tank was then given a gloss coat... decals applied... another gloss coat... and a dark pastel wash.
I'm trying to wrap up the seam between the resin gun breech and the fuselage. Panel lines have been cleaned up and a few lines of rivets have been added.
Ok... I think I'm ready for the big moment. I've been adjusting the join areas between the engine cowling and fuselage for some time now. Due to the extra width of the AMUR Reaver cowling versus the kit cowling area, I cannot get a flush surface-to-surface fit but I want to make sure that I get good contact areas around the perimeter so that the cowling is solidly joined to the fuselage. The last thing I want is the cowling to wiggle around after putting in the work to address the transition areas.
I have to seat the engine cowling and squeeze the bottom rear edge at the same time. I was very hesitant on trying to use CA glue for this join. I could see lots of bad things happening... fumbling around as some of the glue dries... locking the cowling into a bad position. So based on some recommendations, I picked up quick set 2-part epoxy, JB Kwik Weld, at my local hardware store. It sets up reasonably fast at an advertised 6 minutes which would give me enough time to fiddle the fit but not too long to have to squeeze that bottom rear edge together. I tested the stuff to see how it works... seemed to set in the advertised 4-6 minutes. After 8 minutes, the bond was strong and the glue was hard enough to trim the excess off with a knife and do a bit of sanding.
No time to take pictures during the gluing process but the engine cowling is now secured into place! I was very liberal with the glue application and some of it squeezed out to the surface. At about 8 minutes in, when the bottom rear edge seemed to be secure, I took a scribing tool and removed the dried excess glue. It came off quite easily as it was fully cured.
From this angle you can see the big overhang that will need to be filled in.
As I had hoped, the overhang on the starboard side is much less of an issue as a result of the squeeze.
With that hurdle crossed, I can now start thinking about how to attack the transition areas, especially since the wings have not been added yet. I'm looking to do as much corrective work as I can without the wings getting in the way.
Final little detail... the spinner has been given a flat coat.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Wonderful John. I think you nailed that drop tank now!
Really odd that there's such a step between the resin cowl and the wing root and that it's lopsided like that. One thing you could try is this stuff:
Out of the tube it's quite goopy, sort of like toothpaste which helps it self level somewhat. It will set up quickly, especially in direct sunlight meaning that you will have a bit of time to coax it into the curved shape of the wing root and then begin sanding within minutes of the application.
Really odd that there's such a step between the resin cowl and the wing root and that it's lopsided like that. One thing you could try is this stuff:
Out of the tube it's quite goopy, sort of like toothpaste which helps it self level somewhat. It will set up quickly, especially in direct sunlight meaning that you will have a bit of time to coax it into the curved shape of the wing root and then begin sanding within minutes of the application.
parsifal
Colonel
I just love the work being done in this build. inspiring stuff john
- Thread starter
- #132
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks for the comment guys! I'm not sure how this is going to turn out but I'll show you guys regardless!
Thanks for the tip regarding that Tamiya putty. I've been using Milliput for now. Works but it takes a long time to set and dry.
There is definitely a lopsided quality to the Reaver cowling with the port side bulging out noticeably more than the starboard side. My guess is that the Reaver cowling captures the asymmetric quality of the G-10 cowling better than the Revell kit does, assuming that some molding concessions had to be made as the G-10 kit is based off of the G-6 kit. We've already seen indications of that in the canopy notch issue.
I'm really liking the beefy look that the Reaver cowling gives to this G-10. Definitely a different stance when compared to the Revell G-10 I previously built.
Thanks for the tip regarding that Tamiya putty. I've been using Milliput for now. Works but it takes a long time to set and dry.
There is definitely a lopsided quality to the Reaver cowling with the port side bulging out noticeably more than the starboard side. My guess is that the Reaver cowling captures the asymmetric quality of the G-10 cowling better than the Revell kit does, assuming that some molding concessions had to be made as the G-10 kit is based off of the G-6 kit. We've already seen indications of that in the canopy notch issue.
I'm really liking the beefy look that the Reaver cowling gives to this G-10. Definitely a different stance when compared to the Revell G-10 I previously built.
- Thread starter
- #133
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
The JB Kwik Weld is an interesting glue. On my test bed, I did some shaving and sanding of the excess stuff and it behaved very nicely under the blade and sandpaper, at least within the few hours of application that I had played with it. Surface was very hard but the dried glue had some flex to it. It seems to be a very strong adhesive and possibly a good filler material for certain situations.
The patch work on the cowling/fuselage joint continues. I used Milliput White for this as it is easy to sculpt with water. Very helpful for curvy situations like this as I can get into the general shape ballpark very quickly using Milliput and a dampened piece of paper towel.
An application of Mr Surfacer 1000 to fill in the little imperfections of the Milliput sculpt and some sanding brings me one step closer. This is going to take a few iterations to get right.
Trying on the spinner!
The drop tank has been given a flat coat. I still need to perform some weathering on it. Anybody got any good pictures of the heavy stains that the 109 drop tanks often exhibited? The little pipe at the front of the tank got pushed in during the painting process and will need to be replaced.
The patch work on the cowling/fuselage joint continues. I used Milliput White for this as it is easy to sculpt with water. Very helpful for curvy situations like this as I can get into the general shape ballpark very quickly using Milliput and a dampened piece of paper towel.
An application of Mr Surfacer 1000 to fill in the little imperfections of the Milliput sculpt and some sanding brings me one step closer. This is going to take a few iterations to get right.
Trying on the spinner!
The drop tank has been given a flat coat. I still need to perform some weathering on it. Anybody got any good pictures of the heavy stains that the 109 drop tanks often exhibited? The little pipe at the front of the tank got pushed in during the painting process and will need to be replaced.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Nothing close or clear for pics in my files. Just the usual big spills from the filler cap.
- Thread starter
- #135
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Transitioning the AMUR Reaver cowling into the rest of the fuselage is turning out to be much easier than I had feared. Maybe all of that worry and prep work paid off. Or maybe I got lucky. Whichever... I'm grateful!
After one round of Milliput + Mr Surfacer 1000, the more significant port side overhang looks pretty much in hand after a primer check.
Same with the starboard side. Just some minor touch-up with putty and some refining of the panel lines should finish the upper transition. I still have to deal with the bottom of the wing root to cowling connection.
When the putty is drying, I keep occupied by doing other little things like fashioning a tension spring for the aerial and mounting it on the mast.
After one round of Milliput + Mr Surfacer 1000, the more significant port side overhang looks pretty much in hand after a primer check.
Same with the starboard side. Just some minor touch-up with putty and some refining of the panel lines should finish the upper transition. I still have to deal with the bottom of the wing root to cowling connection.
When the putty is drying, I keep occupied by doing other little things like fashioning a tension spring for the aerial and mounting it on the mast.
- Thread starter
- #136
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks Andy! I found a couple...
I didn't come across any with spills from the fill cap though.
Great stuff.
fubar57
General
Nice fix on the cowl
mikewint
Captain
Very impressive, way beyond anything I would even try
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