**** DONE: GB-36 1/48 Fw 200 C-4 "Condor" - Axis Manufactured Aircraft of WWII

[Airframes]

I find that using copier paper, or foil, is just as good, although of course it has to be painted. Masking tape works OK, but there is a risk that fbres or dust can be picked up along the edges, due to the adhesive.
The ends of each 'belt' can be attached by a tiny drop of CA.

 

[mikewint]

Not sure that I even have the "normal" stuff as I use Frog Tape for painting and that is a royal blue. I'll look around and see if I can dig some up.
Thanks Andy.
Terry, "foil" then what, paint? Copier paper? same question, paint? Nice thing about the masking tape is it is already "colored" and is sticky on its own accord

 

[Airframes]

Yes Mike, painted, as mentioned in my previous post. This only takes a few seconds, wiping a brush across the pre cut strips, which are cut much longer than required.
A risk with using masking, or any other type of self-adhesive tape, is that it can come undone at some point - normally some time after the model is finished !
On the few occasions I've used tape, painted or otherwise, I still add a tiny drop of CA to the fixing point.
Here are the paper belts I made for my current Bf110 build, pre-painted, then attached.

 

[parsifal]

There are some tricks making buckles as well if you want the detail for that. You use very fine fuse wire and form the shape using sewing pins pushed into balsa wood, Pull the fuse wire taut with pliers to form a ring or triangle, which is then trimmed and superglued to the harness . once you get the hang of it, its not difficult to do.

Here is a link to a 1/24 scale build by Wotchek that gives a great explanation on how to make your own harness. Go to post 234 and work from there....

Airfix 1/24 scale Bf109E.....or a bed of thorns

 

[turbo]

As Terry has mentioned I've used foil from a wine bottle capsule before which is quite nice as you can bend various shapes into it.

 

[mikewint]

Dram...Guys that is impressive to say the very very least. I checked out the 2mm Tamiya tape and it is a off white and at 2mm too wide for belts. I tried cutting it in half without much success. My feelings at this point are a helically wound wood penetrating device. Like raping a polar bear - more trouble than it is worth but then I used to charge machine gun nests...DA

 

[mikewint]

Somebody 'splain to me why we call this "building" a model??? I've spent 90% of my time and effort PAINTING a model...Oh dwell..
In any case the painting proceeds in a somewhat forward direction.

 

[parsifal]

well, for the record your efforts at painting are looking very good indeed mike.

 

[parsifal]

Dram...Guys that is impressive to say the very very least. I checked out the 2mm Tamiya tape and it is a off white and at 2mm too wide for belts. I tried cutting it in half without much success. My feelings at this point are a helically wound wood penetrating device. Like raping a polar bear - more trouble than it is worth but then I used to charge machine gun nests...DA

As a learner, I find the best way to cut the tape, if your decide to use tape, is to stick the tape onto the cutting board you are using, make sure you have a new blade in your knife and cut a roughly 1.5mm wide strip off the tape using a straight edge. The length of that strip should be about 2cm (1 inch in your vocabulary) but the length is not critical. Cut as many strips as you require. Lift them off the cutting board with the point of your knife and place them so that they hanging off the edge of something, like a glass for instance. Put these strips off to the side for a short while.

Then I go off and make my buckles. The most tricky bit for me is to get those buckles onto the cut strips. taking one of the strips, I place it on the cutting board again, this time with the sticky side face up. I place the buckles at the end of the strip (usually I thread the strip through the formed buckle like a thread through a needle), and very carefully stick the two bits (the buckle and the strip) together (usually by turning a bit of the strip end over onto itself). I sometimes find it necessary to use a small amount of CA glue to make the buckle stick. You can also add the shoulder adjustment buckles if you want.

The harness strap with its buckle (and any other attachments that you have applied), are now ready either for painting, or, direct attachment to the seat. Again I use CA glue to do this, because its quick and I don't need truckloads of glue to get a high strength adhesion.

Foil is similar, but I favour tape, because it paints more easily and I just find it easier to work with. the more experienced guys here get far better results than me with the aluminium, but it can be harder I think if you are not used to it.

 

[javlin]

I'm liking it Mike

 

[Wurger]

 

[Airframes]

It's looking good Mike.

 

[mikewint]

Thank you Gentlemen, much appreciated. Giving some serious thought to taking a trip to the UK to have Terry make me a set of seat belts.

 

[Airframes]

Mike, I'd be glad to, but mine are very simple when done for areas of limited view.
Try it, it's not difficult. Cut the strips of paper against a straight edge, then cut to length, making them longer than required.
I cut the 'buckle' ends to a point, and then pierce the center with a compass point held in a pin vise, to create the impression of a buckle. The strips are then painted the desired colour and allowed to dry, which is quick on paper, and the 'buckle' is then painted a dull silver.
Adjusting buckles are drawn in with a propelling pencil, sharpened to a chisel edge, as is any other detail, such as end stitching or cross retaining bands.
If desired, an extra piece of paper 'strap' can be added to the shoulder straps, to represent the 'free' end of the adjuster.
The straps are then positioned over the seat (or through the seat slot on some types), and adjusted to allow for the 'drape' and positioning of the fastening buckles. The ends of the straps are then glued, at the rear, with a spot of CA, and any excess chopped off with a scalpel.
With the desired 'drape' achieved, a tiny spot of CA is applied under the fastening buckle, and this is then pressed into place on the seat base.
This is repeated for the lap straps and, if for Luftwaffe, a further piece of wider, angled paper is added, beneath each strap, to represent the pads, and painted a darker brown.
Doesn't take too long and, as longer lengths of paper have been cut, if you mess up, it's easy to start on a new strap.
I've been doing it this way for fifty years or more,although in larger scales, if aftermarket fabric straps aren't used, I use a fine fabric and ass more detail using wire, plastic rod and strip etc.

 

[mikewint]

propelling pencil,

Terry, you slipped into British there for this old colonial boy. By that I assume you mean a "mechanical"-type pencil that advances the "lead" by clicking the top. The "fine lead"-type 0.5mm?
Still think it would be easier to fly there...

 

[Airframes]

Yes old chap, that's the type, a 'mechanical' or 'retractable' pencil, with a 0.5mm lead.

 

[mikewint]

Well, what can I say, due to the evil influence of a few members who shall remain nameless I have been coerced into spending the afternoon fiddling for 4 hours with fiddly little bits of 1.5mm paper attempting to replicate seat belts on the Condor. Twas an enjoyable nooner topped only by the time I tried using a pencil sharpener to sharpen something other than a pencil. Youse Guys are a bad influence on me

 

[parsifal]

well done. As one of those evil influences, I think you've done pretty well mike.

 

[Airframes]

Good stuff Mike.
Me, evil ?
Bwahaha !!

 

[Crimea_River]