**** DONE: GB-37 1:48 BP DEFIANT - Helicopters / Military a/c of BoB 1940

[Airframes]

It sure does.

 

[Wayne Little]

 

[fubar57]

Thanks guys. Once I shake this night shift mode I'll hit the decals

 

[fubar57]

Heading off to PG for 2 days but I did get the left side decals on minus the s/n.

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Though you can't see it now I once again had that milky substance form around the decal. The odd thing is, it only happened once and it only happened with the last decal I put on, the "I"

 

[Gnomey]

Lovely work so far George!

 

[Wurger]

 

[Airframes]

Looking good Geo.
That 'milky' stuff could be either the decal adhesive, or perhaps a slight reaction with the clear coat. I've had it happen a couple of times, but it normally clears when dry, or if washed off with a damp cloth.

 

[parsifal]

Very nice work Geo

 

[Crimea_River]

Looking quite good Geo.

 

[turbo]

Looking very nice Geo. I've found that milky effect is a reaction between decal setting solution and the clear varnish. It seems to occur sporadically where setting solution is applied particularly heavily or the varnish coat is not fully cured. It goes away overnight and doesn't seem to leave any after effect so no big drama.

 

[fubar57]

Thanks all. I put the Future on before I went to camp. I try to do this to give it a full seven days to cure and to avoid rushing to place the decals. I've never let it set over night but I'll try it. Usually its the Mr. Mark Softer that reacts but this time it was the Setter.

 

[turbo]

I've never let it set over night but I'll try it.

Sorry if I was being ambiguous Geo, no need to let the decals set overnight before applying softener. Just do what you normally do, the milky appearance will disappear by the next day.

 

[fubar57]

Not a problem Kirby. Always willing to try new things as I totally ruined a wing roundel on my Catalina using the method I described above. I find it very strange for the reaction to occur at a random moment. This time I even took the precaution of using a "0" brush and wiping most of the solution off before applying to the decal. I may have to rethink my decal solutions but I'm limited at the moment. I'm in PG overnight so I'll hit the LHS while the missus is preoccupied at the dentist tomorrow

EDIT: I never did describe the method above. What I do is add more solution and the majority of the time the stain disappears.

 

[fubar57]

Decals and odds and ends, should be done in a few days. I blame you guys for this... drilled out the wing tip lights to represent the bulb, plus tools...

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The next two are more for Michael when he pops in: I mentioned using poster board in his helo build. For the above shot I quartered one sheet so that it can be attached to my desk...

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For lighting I use my neon magnifying lamp over head and two small LED lamps, one on either side...

 

[Wurger]

 

[Crimea_River]

Good stuff Geo. I have a similar setup for photos but it's a combination of tungsten and fluorescent ligting in my case. I would just caution folks that when doing this for finished model shots the ideal background is a neutral grey as that's what most cameras compensate for when setting the exposure. A white background will darken your model if no other adjustments are made and a black background will lighten your model.

 

[fubar57]

Haven't been able to find a greyish shade in my neck of the woods yet. I did get a few sheets of a paler bluish/grey color yesterday. Wing tip lights, landing lights, tail wheel, exhausts and flat coat are on. For this I used Microscale Flat for the first time. I was going to try and airbrush it but I read a few online stories that got ugly so I brushed it on and it went on very nicely.

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Should be done tonight or tomorrow

 

[Wurger]

 

[Airframes]

Looks the biz.

 

[N4521U]

Them BP's had quite the time.
Looking good mate.