**** DONE: GB-37 1/48th He-111H-4 - Helicopters/Military Aircraft of the BoB 1940

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Thanks Andy.
The starboard undercart assembly is done, and I should get both installed later tonight, when they've fully set, along with the main braces and retraction jacks.
 
Thanks, Kirby and Glenn.

Got the exhausts fitted, and the main undercart assemblies installed in the wheel bays, but have yet to fit the main braces and retraction jacks.
It seemed a but fiddly initially, but once I figured out which 'arms' to locate and cement first, the gear legs went in, located and set-up easily, with positive fit, and quite strong, even before attaching the hefty cross-braces. The attachment points for the main legs are to scale, locating onto small spurs in the wheel bay, which slot into the scale hinge brackets, and I had some minor doubts about their ability to support the model, but they're fine, and will be very rigid once the large braces are attached.
Whilst these are setting, some work has been done on masking the remaining transparent parts, including the replacement canopy hatch, and these will be fitted after painting - I should have some pics up later tonight, once the undercart is complete.
After fitting the kit exhausts, I realised that perhaps I should have used those from the Monogram kit after all (which are wrong for the H-22 anyway), as the subject for my model is a H-4, whereas the kit, and of course the provided exhausts, is for the H-3 variant, so the kit exhausts lack the smaller intake pipe on the front of each main pipe, present on the Monogram items.
Ah well, I won't tell if you don't !!
Back later with some pics .....................
 
Thanks Hugh.

Main undercarriage cross braces are in and cemented, after quite a lot of fiddling.
Anyone building this kit, do a lot of test- fitting before committing to cement, as again, the connecting points are to scale on parts C54, the large cross braces, and access is somewhat restricted.
I found the best way to get them into position, was to hold the part in reverse-action tweezers, insert the upper end (the end that attaches to the cross bar in the wheel well) between the diagonal braces, and then coax the smaller end to align with the holes in the diagonal main braces. The latter need to be prised apart in order for the tiny locating pins to line-up with the equally tiny holes. Put a small dab of liquid cement on the locating points, and then locate the pins into the holes and leave for a minute or two.
The main end of the braces can then be pushed into place on the cross bar, and cemented, ensuring they are pushed fully home after applying the cement. Then add a further spot of liquid cement to the joints on the diagonal braces, and leave to set before attempting to fit the retraction jacks, parts C10.
It took a touch over an hour to fit both of these parts, using three hands, tweezers, scalpel point, and the World's supply of patience !
I'll attempt to fit the retraction jacks tomorrow, as again access is awkward, and the main gear parts need to fully set.
Pics below show the state of play to date.

PIC 1. Exhausts in place, with the recess yet to be painted and 'dirtied' a little.
PIC 2. The main gear assembly in place and cemented - retouching will be done, as required, once all parts are in place. No extra detail has been added to the wheel bays, which is minimal anyway, as it won't be seen under normal viewing conditions.
PICS 3 and 4. The main braces in place and cemented (Parts C54 described above.).
PICS 5 and 6. On her feet.


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Thanks very much Glenn.
I really like this kit - there are a couple of areas that need attention, patience and a bit of fiddling, but overall it's a great kit and, so far, there have been absolutely no major problems.
 
Thanks very much, Don and Herman.
Still masking the small bits, and should have some progress and pics to show by tonight.
 
I spoke to soon !
When preparing to fit one of the rudder actuating cranks, it 'pinged' from the tweezers. I heard it skitter across the bench, but after an intensive search, I failed to find it.
I'll either have to make one (preferable), or steal one from one of the Monogram kits, and make one for that model when the time comes.
Anyway, some progress shots.

PIC 1. The fin post for the antenna wire was moulded integrally with the fin on one side, and of course didn't last long during handling. This has been replaced with a small length of brass rod. Also seen here is the surviving rudder actuating crank, in need of a little re-touching.
PIC 2. The remaining transparent parts have had the frames painted, and are ready to install, with the guns (where required) yet to be fitted. The roof hatch has also been painted, but the clear coat was still drying at the time the pics were taken.
PIC 3. Props assembled and painted, and gloss-coated ready for the 'VDM' decals. Reflection from the lighting has given a strange, 'rippled' appearance to a couple of the blades. These will be given a little paint wear when dry and matt coated.
PIC 4. The undercart doors have had panel lines and inspection hatches added to the inside, and await clean-up and painting.

The retraction jacks have been fitted to the main gear cross-braces, but were virtually impossible to photograph easily.
Next step, before fitting the above parts, is to try to scratch-build the 'windgitter' spoilers for the front of the bomb bays. These were similar to a venetian blind in appearance, and were intended to deflect airflow turbulence, allowing the bomb load to release into relatively 'clean' air.
Given that I'm successful in making them, they will need to be fitted so as to match the angle of the bomb doors, and therefore some room to work around that area will be preferable, rather than have 'sticky out' bits getting in the way and probably ending up damaged.
All being well, I hope to start on that little(!!) task tomorrow night, and I'll post another up-date when there's more to show.


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