**** DONE: GB-44 1/48 CF-104 - Military A/C of post-war time (1 Viewer)

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The fit of this kit was a bit worse than Ole Yeller. Stage One of mud complete. I may get away with two sessions; the silver paint checker will decide. Awaiting Stage Two to dry

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Thanks all. Both single seaters are just about up to paint stage; just need to give them a bath to remove the mud dust. A few more odds and ends to go on the twin seater yet
 
Yep. I've been using it for at least 6 years as other modelling putties are out of my reach and with shipping, cost. I just paid 12$ for a 4.5oz tube. Others warn of shrinking with this type of putty and the label mentions there may be slight shrinking. I just went down and looked at my Hobbycraft A-4 that I built in a 2012 GB. You may remember that it was about 90% mud. OK maybe not that much.....

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....there is no shrinkage to date. Another concern with these putties is flaking when trying to rescribe. Keep in mind that I rushed this to get the photo and this isn't my final mud session here. I also just used blue tape as a guide and you can see the skips. Another issue is I really haven't had much practice rescribing panel lines. Also note that this is the first layer of mud and sanding which I used 320 grit. Keeping the mud layers thin means I can usually start sanding after 30-45 minutes later. I think another way to really avoid flaking would be to scribe the lines before the mud has had time to fully set

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Geo, apart from using a scribing tool for straight lines, I also use the tip from a pair of drawing compass, chucked in a pin vise. Stronger than a needle or pin, with no flex, and can easily be re-sharpened, using a file.
Other scribing too;s include the scalpel, using both the tip and edge of the blade, and the back of the blade, and the razor saw.
Left to right - pin vise with compass point, scribing tool, scalpel, razor saw (coarse blade snapped at end, allows straight access.).


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Thanks Geo. It's generally frowned upon to try to scribe into ANY kind of putty as far as I'm aware as the flaking issue is pretty common. I have found success in painting over the puttied surface with a lacquer primer and then polishing the paint with fine grit sanding sponges. I then scribe into the paint very lightly by scoring with a scalpel or PE saw. I find most other methods to produce too much of a profile for 1/48.
 
Cool, might have to find some lacquer primer. That line I scribed has since been filled in and sanded. One more small mud session and done. I thought I was done with the two-seater but I need to add the intakes and the nose cone.
 
Thanks guys. Looking at masking options now. The large main gear doors apparently are only in the lowered position when the gear cycles so to minimize masking here I thought I would install them now. The only problem is a cross member (yellow part) has to be added after the landing gear is in place however I want these added after the main painting is done to minimize breakage and extra masking. I test fit the cross member and gear cover to see if I could cut the cross member to fit after the gear covers were attached. Its a good thing I test fit.....look at that whacking great gap...

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....so I check to see how the fit will be without the cross member and find the contour isn't even close

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As I am pondering how to bend this into submission I glance down at the instructions and notice that the gear covers, 15 and 16, don't completely close when the gear is lowered.....hmmmmm

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