GB-37 1/48th Spitfire M k1a - Helicopters / Military aircraft of BoB 1940
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Crimea_River
Marshal
Looking good Terry.
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- #63
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks chaps.
Ran into a small problem - my fairly new tin of Humbrol Dark Earth has gone off, being like a lump of rubber, and I can't get the cap off the bottle of Model Master Dark Earth !
I'll persist in trying to get the bottle open, and I may have another part-used tin of Humbrol somewhere, otherwise I'll have to wait until Thursday, when the LHS is open again.
Ran into a small problem - my fairly new tin of Humbrol Dark Earth has gone off, being like a lump of rubber, and I can't get the cap off the bottle of Model Master Dark Earth !
I'll persist in trying to get the bottle open, and I may have another part-used tin of Humbrol somewhere, otherwise I'll have to wait until Thursday, when the LHS is open again.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Terry run the MM bottle cap under a stream of hot water from the tap foe a few minutes then try opening.
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- #65
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Tried that Andy, and also tried clamping it in a vise, but my wrists are a little weak and tender at the moment, so not much grip.
No problem though, as I found another tin of Humbrol Dark Earth, which works, and managed to get the first, thin coat sprayed.
Going to let that settle for around 30 minutes, and then spray a second, thin coat. The paint has been thinned around 55% thinners to 45% paint (ish !) measured by Mark 1 eyeball, series ii.
No problem though, as I found another tin of Humbrol Dark Earth, which works, and managed to get the first, thin coat sprayed.
Going to let that settle for around 30 minutes, and then spray a second, thin coat. The paint has been thinned around 55% thinners to 45% paint (ish !) measured by Mark 1 eyeball, series ii.
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- #66
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Second, final coat of Dark Earth sprayed (still drying in the pic).
This will be left for around 24 hours or more, before marking the camouflage pattern lightly in pencil, and spraying the Dark Green freehand.
Being an early-production Mk1a, and with an 'even' serial number, the pattern will be the 'A' Scheme, the opposite (mirror image) to that shown on the kit instructions ('B' Scheme).
I might get this done tomorrow night , but more likely some time on Thursday.
This will be left for around 24 hours or more, before marking the camouflage pattern lightly in pencil, and spraying the Dark Green freehand.
Being an early-production Mk1a, and with an 'even' serial number, the pattern will be the 'A' Scheme, the opposite (mirror image) to that shown on the kit instructions ('B' Scheme).
I might get this done tomorrow night , but more likely some time on Thursday.
parsifal
Colonel
ive never attempted spraying the RAF scheme freehand. I would have thought that you would need to keep the airbrush very close to the surface and the pressure way down to avoid spattering and/or overspray????
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- #68
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Yes Michael. I'll be spraying at around 15 psi, very close-in for the demarcation, and using the airbrush with a 0.20 mm nozzle.
With this fine tip, I'll most likely have to thin the paint a little more than usual, probably around 60/40 thinners to paint, in order to get a soft, but tight, demarcation between the two colours.
It shouldn't really be a problem, but I am a little restricted, as some angles are tricky to achieve, due to my arthritic hands !
If it all goes base over apex, then as a last resort, I can touch-in the demarcation with a fine-pointed brush.
With this fine tip, I'll most likely have to thin the paint a little more than usual, probably around 60/40 thinners to paint, in order to get a soft, but tight, demarcation between the two colours.
It shouldn't really be a problem, but I am a little restricted, as some angles are tricky to achieve, due to my arthritic hands !
If it all goes base over apex, then as a last resort, I can touch-in the demarcation with a fine-pointed brush.
parsifal
Colonel
thanks Terry. I noticed I said temperature in my post. I meant 'pressure'
Crimea_River
Marshal
Looks good Terry.
turbo
Staff Sergeant
Nice, looking forward to the camo Terry...
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- #72
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks, Andy and Kirby - might get it painted tonight, if not, then pics probably tomorrow.
I've only just realised - I forgot to drill a hole for the de-icer spray tube in the front of the rad housing !
With luck, I might be able to rectify this once the painting has been completed.
I've only just realised - I forgot to drill a hole for the de-icer spray tube in the front of the rad housing !
With luck, I might be able to rectify this once the painting has been completed.
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- #73
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
It's not that clear in the pics below, but the camouflage demarcation has been lightly outlined in pencil.
As I'll need better light when spraying, this will hopefully be done some time during daylight tomorrow, and I'll post pics when it's done.
As I'll need better light when spraying, this will hopefully be done some time during daylight tomorrow, and I'll post pics when it's done.
parsifal
Colonel
what pencil did you use Terry........HB, 2H???? and was it a coloured pencil?
What happens at places like the wing root or the leading edge? Any special arrangements?
What happens at places like the wing root or the leading edge? Any special arrangements?
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- #75
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Just a standard HB pencil in this case Michael.
The wing roots, leading edges and fuselage also have the pencil marks, but they can't be seen clearly in the pics - the lines need to catch the light to be seen clearly, hence the need for good light when spraying.
Those areas which could suffer from 'overspray', such as leading and trailing edges of the wing, the undersides of the tail planes, and the underside of the fuselage, had already been masked before spraying the Dark Earth.
The tricky part, at least for me, with my knackered hands, is getting in to areas such as the curve of the wing roots to fuselage, keeping an accurate line whilst spraying. It just takes a little more time, doing small areas in stages. Once the edge demarcations are sprayed, it's a fairly simple task to 'fill in' the rest.
The wing roots, leading edges and fuselage also have the pencil marks, but they can't be seen clearly in the pics - the lines need to catch the light to be seen clearly, hence the need for good light when spraying.
Those areas which could suffer from 'overspray', such as leading and trailing edges of the wing, the undersides of the tail planes, and the underside of the fuselage, had already been masked before spraying the Dark Earth.
The tricky part, at least for me, with my knackered hands, is getting in to areas such as the curve of the wing roots to fuselage, keeping an accurate line whilst spraying. It just takes a little more time, doing small areas in stages. Once the edge demarcations are sprayed, it's a fairly simple task to 'fill in' the rest.
parsifal
Colonel
well good luck. I'm waiting to see how it goes. I have the little brother of this kit and if your method works, I'm pretty confident it will work at 1/72 as well
turbo
Staff Sergeant
I used the same method at 1/48 for fairly tight patterns on my recent Folgore with good results Michael. My only advice is the same as Terry's which is to use a 0.2 mm nozzle, get your thinning ratio and pressure right to minimise spitting or overspray, and, where possible, orient the airbrush away from the side of the line to be left unpainted. Take your time and go slowly. Any errors can be corrected by going back over with the basecoat colour.
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- #79
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I agree with Kirby on all points.
I've used this method for many years and, so far at least, I've only ever had one small problem, where a couple of the pencil lines, and the 'DG' scribbles, identifying the Dark Green areas, showed through the green paint. However, this was due to the paint used, not the pencil lines, and was easily corrected.
The paint perhaps had not been fully stirred long enough before thinning (it was Humbrol 163 Satin Dark Green), and went on, in some areas, with a slight translucent look. Another thin coat eliminated the problem.
Bear in mind I use enamels - if acrylics are used, then it'll possibly need further coats to cover the pencil marks.
I've used this method for many years and, so far at least, I've only ever had one small problem, where a couple of the pencil lines, and the 'DG' scribbles, identifying the Dark Green areas, showed through the green paint. However, this was due to the paint used, not the pencil lines, and was easily corrected.
The paint perhaps had not been fully stirred long enough before thinning (it was Humbrol 163 Satin Dark Green), and went on, in some areas, with a slight translucent look. Another thin coat eliminated the problem.
Bear in mind I use enamels - if acrylics are used, then it'll possibly need further coats to cover the pencil marks.
parsifal
Colonel
I didn't know that you could get replacement nozzles, I found this at first pass on ebay
0.2mm airbrush nozzle | eBay
Ive only got a $40 airbrush from china, but it works well generally . At $2.80 (AU) its worth a shot to see if those replacement nozzles fit my cheap as*s airbrush. I want to give it a go
The other thing I need to learn how to do is adjust the head pressure on my compressor. Ive got a $150 Chinese compressor, it has a pressure gauge, and glass bowl , no instructions, a pressure tank and release valve and glass moisture collector. There is some sort of tap like regulator near the glass bowl. Any suggestions on how I can adjust the pressure, or not/
Sorry will bug out now.
0.2mm airbrush nozzle | eBay
Ive only got a $40 airbrush from china, but it works well generally . At $2.80 (AU) its worth a shot to see if those replacement nozzles fit my cheap as*s airbrush. I want to give it a go
The other thing I need to learn how to do is adjust the head pressure on my compressor. Ive got a $150 Chinese compressor, it has a pressure gauge, and glass bowl , no instructions, a pressure tank and release valve and glass moisture collector. There is some sort of tap like regulator near the glass bowl. Any suggestions on how I can adjust the pressure, or not/
Sorry will bug out now.
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