I use Revell cement for my injection models, but you will also need CA glue for your resin kits. I prefer a cutting blade to an exacto knife, and have both a small sized knife and a larger one. I make sure i have a lot of spare blades and at least chnge the blade before each build.
Youve got a choice with the paints to go either acrylic or enamel. There are pros and cons for both types. Acrylics are less of a health risk, dry quickly and can mix with water (but you should thin using acylic thinner. The best range for acrylics is tamiya. Dont know too much about enamels, dont use them. Fine grade sanding paper is also a must, and i would say some form of mini sanding block which you mighht need to make yourself. I use a range of papers, mostly because I get impatient with the really fine stuff, but for me, I use a range, varying from 360 grain through to 2000 grain. ive also sometimes used automotive wet and dry because it gives a really high quality finish, but you should that in the "strange" category i think.
tools that you might need could include a fine set of files, cotton balls, a good set of brushes, and probably an airbrush, though there are people here who do a really fine job and dont have one. If you adopt acrylics, you will need acylic cleaner, the best quality at a reasonable price is automotive cleaning spirit. I can buy 1 litre of the stuff for AU $14, about 12/10 the price charged at modelling shops.
If you can lay your hands on futures floor polish, it is highly recommended around here .
If you are an old guy, a well lit work space is highly recommended, and I would also say it needs to be a dedicated space. if you have to put everything away each day, its a royal pain. I would also recommend some form of clamps and lots of model tape (Tamiya I think is best)