Hasegawa 1/32 P47D Republic Thunderbolt

Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules

A small update, I've been waiting on the arrival of an Expo razor saw which turned up yesterday I needed it so I could cut out the navigation light blanks and then insert the clear lenses. I used Dymo tap as a guide whilst cutting with the saw. This worked very well with the minimal of tidying up afterwards. I've added a few drops of red and green in the respective lens indents. Decals to the no step areas on the flaps have been added too.
 

Attachments

  • 131402_1327.jpg
    80.9 KB · Views: 111
  • 131402_1332.jpg
    70.6 KB · Views: 120
  • 131402_1334.jpg
    50.4 KB · Views: 119
  • 131402_1342.jpg
    67.3 KB · Views: 117
  • 131402_1353.jpg
    60.1 KB · Views: 115
  • 131402_1355.jpg
    60.3 KB · Views: 110
  • 131402_1357.jpg
    75.7 KB · Views: 113
Hey, Vaughan,
Man, that rocks. I am really enjoying this build. You are really pushing me to start on Gabbie's bubbble top I have on the stack. Did the elnses come with the kit or did you fabricate them?
Dale
 
Thanks Dale they were part of the kit thank god, I'm not quite up to scratch building clear parts although I know it's possible.
 
Not as hard as you might think. Saw out the notch as you did, cut a hunk of clear sprue, drill and paint holes for the bulbs, glue the clear block in then file, sand, polish dab on some Future and you have yourself some nice homemade lenses.

Great job so far Vaughan.
 
Coming together nicely now Vaughan, and Andy has described well the process for making nav lamps.And he's right, it's not as difficult or daunting as it first seems.
 
hey, Andy,
I do have a quick question for you from one of your other posts. I think it was in the Dora build thread. But, I am tired and thought I would just ask here. You made up some couplings for your hoses in your Dora engine plug. Did you use air conditioning metal tape for that? I got some from an AC friend of mine. I thought I would try to do the '51's oleos with that. I just cannoit get them to "pop" with paint. However, that tape is just too thick for 48 th scale. Any ideas?
Dale

Forgive the disruption, Vaughan.
 
Dale, I use aluminum foil tape available at any hardware store. Do not confuse with duct tape. This stuff is real aluminum with glue on the back and a paper backing.

 
Hey, Andy,
Yeap, that is what my AC friend gave me. It is ALMOST as thick as the difference between the oleo and the main strut. Just a TAD thinner. I just do not care for how it looks on an old test strut. Now, my AC friend popped by for a beer earlier. He took one look and said "Ahhhhhh, I have just what you need." He popped out to the truck and came back with what appears to be a mylar tape in shiny silver by 3M. MUCH thinner. I need to get some wax paper to adhere it to for cutting it down to size, but that may be the cat's meow. I'll let you all know how it works out.
Dale
 
Mine's really thin. Just miked it at 0.1mm. These oleos had the stuff applied straight onto the plastic.



Now, enough with the hijack, let's give Vaughan his thread back.
 
Thanks Guys all the same some interesting info on the tape, will keep it mind for future builds. Will post some more progress soon looks like the primer will be next.
 
Vaughan, that tape is available in a number of very thin gauges (measured in microns!), and B&Q stock it in a couple of widths, at around £5 per (long) roll. It's virtually the same stuff sold by a certain company as foil, for doing bare metal finishes, so useful for that too.
 

Users who are viewing this thread