Vic Balshaw
Major General
I haven't looked in here before Vaughan, but my it's a beautiful build......
Hasegawa 1/32 P47D Republic Thunderbolt
- Thread starter Vaughan
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #242
Vic it was until I laid down the primer last night followed by the OD band down the spine. Started spraying on the aluminium this morning, didn't go down at all well. Don't know if it was a combination of poorly applied primer or the aluminium being awkward but it looks a total mess. It has a dusty appearance in places and is rough to the touch. So maybe a bad case of over spray to certain areas I don't know. What I do know is the lot is going to have to come off. This is a real shame as the masking on the OD worked really well. Oh well it's back to the drawing board. I'm in two minds wether to put this one on the back burner and start the 'Storch' for GB17. Will have to have think on that one
dneid
Staff Sergeant
Hey, Vaughan,
Man, I a bummed out to hear that. However, after my slip up on the '51, I sure can empathize with you. Take a break, chill out, and press on. It took me a couple of days to get back in a good frame of mind to recover from my mistakes.
I have enjoyed watching this build a great deal and hope you can recover and sort it all out.
Dale
Man, I a bummed out to hear that. However, after my slip up on the '51, I sure can empathize with you. Take a break, chill out, and press on. It took me a couple of days to get back in a good frame of mind to recover from my mistakes.
I have enjoyed watching this build a great deal and hope you can recover and sort it all out.
Dale
meatloaf109
1st Lieutenant
Well, by all means start on the storch. But a light sanding with some 400 or better grit, (I have 1200, it is almost like tissue!) Buff that puppy down and shoot it again!
Nothing like a prep coat to make things smooth down.
I believe in you! Go to it.
Nothing like a prep coat to make things smooth down.
I believe in you! Go to it.
vikingBerserker
Lieutenant General
That stinks, but Paul is spot on. Good luck!
Aaron Brooks Wolters
Brigadier General
Vaughan, as large as that model is, overspray is going to be a real pain. If you can find some slow reducer it will help. It flashes slower staying wet longer. I ran into this shooting my black Spitfire. This build looks stupendous sir. Keep up the excellent work.
tigerdriver
Staff Sergeant
I am sure you can make an excellent recovery
Vic Balshaw
Major General
What a bummer Vaughan and it's always hard to make a good recovery. I've found that sanding back with graded sanding sticks until your using an almost smooth stick helps cut the rough paint down and then you just try again.
Put it aside for a short while to consider the options......OR just jump straight in with the fix, either way i'm sure you will get it back on track Vaughan...
Crimea_River
Marshal
Sad to hear Vaughan. It was looking good so far but I'm with the guys. Jump back in when you feel the time is right and you'll do a fine job. By your description, it sounds as if your silver spray partially dried in the air before hitting the model.
- Thread starter
- #252
Thanks Guys for all the positive support as I'm in a real bad place with this model at the moment. I did spend yesterday afternoon striping off the aluminium and primer so I'm back to square one. I will look into trying a different primer and aluminium paint. Anybody have any experience in other acrylics such as Tamiya paints, even rattle cans?
N4521U
Colonel
Did you mention Rattle Cans??????
When I did my Jack for the Captured GB, I used Tamiya Silver Leaf in the rattle cans. Has a nice sheen, I use it for struts and other little shiny things. I also used it as an undercoat on a Zero and then topped it with the camo colors and scraped them off the silver for chipping. Oh and my Brewster recovered from a lake, same MO.
Decals will NOT stick to it, they hang on till you touch them, then just slide off. It needs Future for the decals, before and after. However the polish changes the sheen slightly. I haven't tried any of the rattle can clears over it.
I have some of he Alclad, but have not the intestinal fortitude to give it a go. The only thing I can suggest is ... Tell yah what I'll do.... I'll spray something with the leaf, then a clear and take a couple of shots and post here, can do this this morning and have them on by tomorrow. I'll paint half with clear gloss RatCan. We'll both see what happens.
Bill
When I did my Jack for the Captured GB, I used Tamiya Silver Leaf in the rattle cans. Has a nice sheen, I use it for struts and other little shiny things. I also used it as an undercoat on a Zero and then topped it with the camo colors and scraped them off the silver for chipping. Oh and my Brewster recovered from a lake, same MO.
Decals will NOT stick to it, they hang on till you touch them, then just slide off. It needs Future for the decals, before and after. However the polish changes the sheen slightly. I haven't tried any of the rattle can clears over it.
I have some of he Alclad, but have not the intestinal fortitude to give it a go. The only thing I can suggest is ... Tell yah what I'll do.... I'll spray something with the leaf, then a clear and take a couple of shots and post here, can do this this morning and have them on by tomorrow. I'll paint half with clear gloss RatCan. We'll both see what happens.
Bill
Vic Balshaw
Major General
I do find the Model Master metallic paints good, they dry quick but are already mixed for airbrushing and applied a little at a time do come out rather nice.
meatloaf109
1st Lieutenant
Vallejo has a silver in the airbrush line, comes out very nice.
- Thread starter
- #256
Thanks Bill wil be really interested to see how it comes out. I've never used rattle cans but if it works maybe the way to go.
Paul the Vallejo aluminium was what I used, it work fine for the Wildcat but not this time but could have been a combination of primer not going down properly or maybe drying before it hit the model as has been suggested.
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tigerdriver
Staff Sergeant
I found the tamiya rattle cans i used ( gloss yellow and green on a racing car ) came out very "heavy " it was tough to avoid runs and clogging detail even with light passes from away back . Clearly a lot more messy and colateral damage than a airbrush too .... Ofcourse it may have been operator error but cover up well and experiment would be my advice
N4521U
Colonel
The best way to treat a rattle can is a big spray gun. First coat a "tac" coat, light enough to just See and let it 75% dry. The following coat a little heavier but not wet enough to cause the first to Slump. Yellow is the worst. I used it on my work platforms for Merlin's Magic in 32nd scale. Many coats to get it to cover.
I'll have to post the pics tomorrow Vaughn, life just got in the way.
I'll have to post the pics tomorrow Vaughn, life just got in the way.
prem895
Staff Sergeant
I find yellow to be a bit of a problem also,does not cover well and you need a lot of coats.Vaughan,just get back on the horse. From what you have done so far,this is just a minor set back for you and it will all work out in the end
meatloaf109
1st Lieutenant
One thing I have noticed about Vallejo paints, when you get down to half the bottle it sometimes needs a bit of thinning, despite being "airbrush ready".
I am sure that you, like me, shake the snot out of the paint before using, but for some reason several bottles have been thicker. Especially after sitting half full for a while.
I am sure that you, like me, shake the snot out of the paint before using, but for some reason several bottles have been thicker. Especially after sitting half full for a while.
