Hasegawa 1/32 P47D Republic Thunderbolt

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Don't like the idea of rattle cans on models, unless very large scale. No matter how careful or precise in the application, there's just not enough control over the pressure, spray pattern or weight of paint.
I think you'd be better sticking with the airbrush, and maybe use a fresh bottle of paint. I've only ever used Vallejo Model Colour - where thinners is needed - and never had a problem. Also, I found it better value for money, as it's the same amount of paint as the Model Air, but twice the coverage, due to thinning.
 
Here's the results...... I found that I had to coat the decal after applying to the Silver leaf with just a hairline of overlap in order to get them to adhere. The results of coating are less than acceptable for what a polished silver should look like. But at least you can see what happens with my sample and perhaps put that option to rest. Unless you're willing to go thru the trouble of the over coating. The uncoated Silver Leaf is a nice polished look, when coated it's a little different.

The sample,

The tail section is sprayed with a Tamiya Gloss Clear. Center is the Silver leaf uncoated. The nose is coated with Future.

I hope this answers any questions on your mind about alternatives.

Bill
 

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Thanks Bill for trying that one out, I can see the Silver Leaf produces a really nice finish and it's a shame that clear gloss and Future tones it down so much, plus the issue with the decals thanks again Bill.

I'm back at the stage where the primer is down(a brand new bottle of Vallejo light grey surface primer). Some really fine sanding and polishing is going to be required, as areas of the upper wing surfaces are slightly rough( most probably down to my poor spraying skills) and will affect the aluminium when I pluck up the courage to start spraying again. I went to my LMS yesterday and bought some more Vallejo aluminium so at least there shouldn't any issues with that. So at the moment I will concentrate on sorting the primer coat.
Thanks everyone for your ideas and encouragement. As they say watch this space and hopefully there will be some positive out comes.
 
No worries Vaughn. Glad to do it. At least ow nyou can put to rest some notions as to what you may have thought would work.

I haven't tried my Alclad yet. I was planning on using it on Merlin's Magic, my 1/32nd version as it will be the centerpiece of my cabinet. If I ever get back on it. I gotta quit doing two entries. I think I started this before you came on board.

http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/st...amiya-merlins-magic-p-51d-reno-dio-30257.html

Bill
 
Well I've succeeded in sanding back the primer using a very worn out fine grade sanding stick, so all is very smooth and hopefully the aluminium will go down well.

A question for you Guys in the know, I've been doing a bit of research regarding Eaglestons' P47 and came across this photo it looks like there are painted walkways at the wing roots, would this have been the case or is it a trick of the light as on the painting guide it shows no such areas?
 

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Vaughan,
Glad to see you back on track. I am new to the blog and have been watching as you have progressed. I just started doing models again and have learned a lot from this site. You and everyone do amazing stuff. I hope someday mine can look as good as yours. Thanks for keeping track I learn something on every thread. Can't wait to see the finished product.
 
Good to see you back on track Vaughan, can't help with the walkway though, from what I have found it could be as you think, or shading or possibly even a different material used in the wings construction. Someone is sure to come up with something though.

I pulled these three pics of the internet, interesting variations.





 
Hey, Vaughan,
A dear friend of the family was a B-24 pilot in WWII. He had a TON of photos (he has long passed away). I do remember quite a few photos of Jugs with non slip walk ways. Leonard did say these were non slip in the pics he had.
Great to see you back at the Jug. I am really looking forward to seeing it progress.
Dale
 
Vic, Terry and Dale thanks for all the info and your support Guys, I'm thinking I will go for the walkways.
Bill I'm really grateful that you spent time experimenting with the silver leaf.

For the time being I will have another go with the Vallejo aluminium the primer is very smooth so I should get a good finish. The next thing to take into account is do I spray the the OD to the fuselage spine, walkways, black bands to the tail fin, horizontal stabilisers and then mask prior to putting the aluminium down. Too much to think about at the moment. Oh and I almost forgot the invasion stripes too. What a headache and I thought I was doing a simple colour scheme.
 
If it helps another member make a decision, it's not too much effort.

I personally would do a simple sample for the masking thing, but my guess would be to do the colors first before the aluminum. Paint something aluminum then see if the tape pulls up the aluminum, then how well the colors stick to the aluminum.

As well, you need to know what the colors faded edges over the primer have on the Aluminum. You may find the finish on the Aluminum could be shinier over the colors, if they are gloss and the primer flat.

I know when I was doing gold leafing on signs, if I had a gloss paint under the varnish sizing I got a much higher gloss in the gold leaf. I also got a different gloss in the leaf if I applied it to gloss enamel paint that still had tac enough for the gold leaf to stick to it. Since gold leaf is porous the undercoat, varnish or paint, has to be nearly set so it didn't come thru the leaf and dull the finish. How about a solid gold leaf finish???? Just sayin. I digress.

Food for thought.
 
Rule of thumb - 'standard' colours first, then metallics. The main reason is to prevent the metallic pigments 'migrating' into the 'solid' colours when they are applied, giving a 'speckled' look which is a real b*gg*r to get rid of; paint lifting due to masking is a secondary consideration.
I don't know if you'll have the time or inclination to try it, but a really good metal finish can be achieved by using SNJ powder before painting. Somewhere in the 'Painting questions' threads, there's a thing I posted a few years back, showing how it's done. It can be a tad messy, but it's very effective.
If you can't find it, let me know and I'll dig it out of my computer files.
 
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Thanks Guys, colour will go down first now starts the task of masking, will post some images in the next few days.
 
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