Hasegawa 1/48 Bf 109K-4

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Thanks guys!


Interestingly enough, one of the resources that I've found for Blue 16 says that the dark green is factory applied. The instructions for AVIPRINT decal 48005 says, "The fuselage sides were sprayed by darker green color during production forasmuch the bulkhead numbers are written atop this color." I couldn't confirm this info (it cites Japo Publishing's 109K Camo & Marking book as a reference) and can't discern any stenciling in the dark green area per the picture. Black stenciling doesn't show up on the dark green I've painted anyway so I've left those lower stencils off.
 
Continued work on the starboard side decals. The circular port that I had previously painted red was indeed underneath the number 16. I had so much trouble getting the white decal to sit into this area that cut I the decal portion away after application, which was messy. To avoid that with the blue decal, I punched out the area figuring I could match it later with paint. Instead of painting it red, I think I'll just leave it as it is since the 16 was applied later in this aircraft's life.



Ok... so this is what Blue 16 looks like after the decals were sealed with a thin gloss coat.




I wanted to break up the broad expanses of green on the upper surfaces, especially the wings so I did some salt fading. It's hard to see in the photos but I intentionally kept this effect very subtle.



Next is a panel wash to dirty up the plane some more. Stay tuned...
 
Time for a dirty wash. The 109K is given a brown wash on the bottom. I mix my own washes using scrapings from pastel chalks mixed with water... old school but it works.


After the wash is dry, it is wiped off using a camp piece of paper towel. The wash in the recessed areas should remain. You can allow a residual amount of wash to remain in non-recessed areas as well to simulate dirt and wear so it's a good idea to wipe in the direction of the airflow.


The upper surfaces are given a darker wash.


Wiping with a paper towel leaves bits of paper particles on the model so it is very important to give it a good wiping with a clean cloth before the flat coat is applied.




I think she's ready for the next step... flat coat.


 
Flat coat is on. I used Alclad Aqua Gloss with Tamiya Flat Base added. It's a bit tricky to use as you get a nasty white frosting to the finish if you put too much Flat Base into the mix. I prefer a flatter finish but I'm afraid of pushing it any more. The flat coat has all but eliminated the salt chipping effect... I guess I was a little TOO subtle with it.




Some closeups of the finish.




With the flat coat finished, all that remains is adding all of the bits and pieces, which have all been pre-painted. I started with the supercharger intake and exhausts.



The deflector plates are added above the exhausts. I'm glad I replaced the kit parts with brass.



The canopy masks are removed. No mishaps but I had a temporary scare when I found a little white scrap of plastic resting in the middle of the windshield. A few flicks from the outside with my fingernail was enough to dislodge it luckily.



The landing gear struts are glued into place. I'll get the struts set in place before I mount the wheels. The tail wheel is a tight friction fit so I might just leave it unglued.



The prop blades have been added to the spinner.


Before the more delicate antenna are put on, I'll do some minor paint chipping. More to come!
 
I agree, too.
That interesting, clean and clearly explained tutorial you're leaving us here, John.

Esperando lo que sigue...
 
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