Hawker Typhoon IB "Nicky" 439 Squadron RCAF 1/48

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Terry,

Excellent tips! Must follow them for the antenna. I agree with you that the sticky out things should go last. I still have to add the Pitot tube, foot step etc. Here's my reference for positioning of the Whip antenna.

 
Yep. I was going to post that same pic, but didn't because a) it wasn't very clear in my example, and b) I couldn't be bothered! Lacking energy at the moment, and just want to sleep, but keep waking up!
 
Good Day Gents,


I was able to take some more pics of the build to date.

After applying the decals and doing the panel lines I sprayed some flat coats over the aircraft and added the cockpit seat.
At this point I was looking at the propeller which I had painted in Tamiya Flat Black lightened a bit with Flat white and while it looked fairly accurate I wasn't impressed with the look. It just had an appearance
of a four black sticks with no hues or tones to it. So I decided to re paint it. This time I created a mixture of Flat black, white and a new colour in the form of blue. I mixed all of them together till I got the colour I wanted
then sprayed the prop again. If you look at my previous posts you can see the difference in the colours. The new mix I think has a bit more colour variation in the black which I like. I don't recall the exact ratios I used as I just mixed
the colours till I got the colour I wanted.

I have also finished applying the decals to the bombs and spraying a flat coat on them as well. See pics below.

For the weathering I have only done the paint fading and the exhausts themselves thus far. To give you and idea of the extent of the fading, I placed one of the bombs on the fuselage to show the difference in what is almost pure RAF Dark Green (the RAF Dark green on the bomb was lightened a bit with white) and faded RAF dark green. I have seen some models where a lighter colour is sprayed inside of the original colour to give a faded effect but I wanted to achieve a uniform fade and besides I couldn't do this anyway as the decals were already on. I also applied fading to the National Insignia as well. I achieved this using filters which I have often used on my armour builds.

Next I have to add some paint chipping, dirt, exahust stains etc to finish her off. Then I will add the sticky out things once all that is done.







 
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Hey Thanks guys.

Terry, yes you mentioned the panel lines were a bit strong for you but I like them this way. How does that song go? you say to mah to and I say to may to.
Anyway I am glad you like it. It seems that these darkened panel lines are pretty common from the models I have seen on the net. Mind you these are just models I have seen on line.
I am using a bit of artistic license here in my build and I am trying to replicate the look of some graphic aircraft profiles one sees in various aircraft reference books and even in some period photos such as:







 
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Great job there Dave. It's a real stunner!

Totalize said:
.... I also applied fading to the National Insignia as well. I achieved this using filters which I have often used on my armour builds.
Click to expand...

Can you expand on that a bit? I've often wanted to make my decals look faded but don't know how.
 
I see what you mean now. Yes, the cowling and other nose panels were often quite visible, as they were frequently removed, and got quite dirty. However, the normal skin panels on fuselage and wing tended not to be so prominent. It seems to be 'the in thing' in recent years to emphasis all panel lines, which can work on some models, but can also make a good model look like a good model, rather than an excellent, accurate, model, on others. But, as you say, it's your choice, and each to their own.
 
Crimea_River said:
Great job there Dave. It's a real stunner!



Can you expand on that a bit? I've often wanted to make my decals look faded but don't know how.
Click to expand...

Andy,

Thanks for your positive comments on the build. Much appreciated.

As for the fading of the decals here's how I do it.

Firstly, I insure the area where the fading is going to be done has a medium applied that is opposite to the fading medium to be used.
In my case I wanted to achieve maximum protection of the paint scheme and decals, so with the future coat on top ( I always apply future straight from the bottle and don't mix it with anything as your just asking for trouble by doing this) and decals applied I next applied an enamel flat coat. With this in place and dry and keeping in mind the filter fading is enamel based and wanting to apply opposite medium coats when layering I went with an opposite medium and next used an acrylic flat coat over the enamel flat coat. Now with an acrylic coat as the top most layer I could now apply and enamel layer which is an opposite medium. Again all these medium are sprayed straight from the bottle with the exception of the acrylic flat coat (In this case Vallejo Matte Coat) which can take a few drops of water to thin it so it flows from the AB easier. In this case I used MIG Productions grey Filter for Dark Yellow. When applying the filter make sure your brush has almost all of the filter liquid removed as you don't want to flood the target area. It should be almost dry. Apply the filter with even strokes and let it dry first before applying the next layer. The goal is to build it up as you go. I believe I applied perhaps three layers to my model but you can apply more for greater fading effect but you must be careful not to apply too much as you will get prominent streaking and chalky looking effects if too much is put on. Less is more in this case.

Hope this helps.

Here's the filter I used.


Dave.
 
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