Hawker Typhoon IB "Nicky" 439 Squadron RCAF 1/48

[Airframes]

The lugs are not that important on the model. As with US bombs, I've seen them with just one set of 'standard' lugs and also with both sets, so the lack of a visible lug on the underside of the bomb (on the model) is not something to be concerned about. From memory, both sets of lugs eventually became standard by mid 1944, but ordnance produced earlier in the war might have just the standard British lug(s).
The 'flag' was attached to the label shown in the diagram, with the label being attached directly to the pin, as shown.
The label can be seen resting against the top of the fuse cap in the photo, making the cap look slightly like an impeller. Normally, the label was painted light metal, rather like the thin alloy or steel used on I.D. plates, and the flag was thin cotton or similar, rather like the material on a thin shirt, and invariably rather faded in colour.
The sole purpose of the flag was to indicate the presence of the label and pin, so that it could be seen if the safety pin was in position easily, just the same as today's 'RBF' tags are used for caps, covers, safety locks or pins which must be removed before flight.
The 'Chiefy' (RAF equivalent of Crew Chief) or armourer would hold up and show the removed pins/flags to the pilot in the cockpit, before he taxiied out, to confirm that they'd been removed.
Bit embarrassing to fly off to bomb a bridge or other target, only to discover that the safety pins were still in place!!

 

[Totalize]

I think I am starting to understand. So the Flag would be attached to the label. Do you know what size(dimensions) this flag was and what colour it typically was?
From your comments I would have to add the label, pin and flag to the fuze cap? assuming the plane was parked.

I am still curious though, what is that long wire hanging from the fuze cap?

 

[Gnomey]

Lovely work so far!

 

[Airframes]

The 'long wire' is the flag or tab - it just happens to be hanging almost end on, making it look like a wire or cable. It could even be a piece of coloured twine - as mentioned, it was only there to quickly indicate that the pins were in place.
There didn't appear to be any hard and fast rules regarding the colour or length, although virtually all were either red, or a faded red/orange, and very thin material, the same as that used on pitot cover flags. It's virtually certain that many armourers attached their own, 'home made' flags, and I've seen examples of no flag at all.
As the label states, the pin had to remain in place until the weapon was stowed in/on the aircraft, and some ground crews removed them once the bomb was secured, rather than just before departure, as the bombs were normally only loaded just before the mission, so it's possible to see a parked aircraft, with bombs on boars, without the tags/flags.
A definite exception to the latter were the 'pig tails', the electrical connectors for RPs fitted to aircraft. These were left hanging from the tail of the missile, and only connected once the aircraft was ready to move from dispersal, and sometimes not until the end of the runway.

 

[Totalize]

Thanks Gnomey, Glad you like it.

Terry, this is good information. So as an option I can just do the bombs with their fuzes and no tags and this would be accurate.

Thanks,Dave.

 

[Airframes]

Yes, that would be fine Dave.
Personally, I think a model with all sorts of control locks, RBF tags and so on, if a 'stand alone' model, looks rather contrived. If it's in a diorama, then that's different, and such things as RBF tags add authenticity to the scene - if they're done properly.

 

[Totalize]

Terry, I think that's an important point you mention about a model looking contrived. As I said I want to provide some visual interest with the bombs to have a bit more detail than the normal kit ones but as you say I don't want to add all this extra stuff to make it look contrived. I have seen many a RP fitted Typhoon models with the electrical leads hanging from the wings and I think it provides enough visual interest but is not overly done. I am trying to go for the same effect but with bombs instead, something I haven't really seen on bomb laden models of Typhoons. Hopefully I won't screw it up.

Cheers,
Dave.

 

[Airframes]

No problem Dave. If you decide to go with the RBF-type ribbons, then they should be around 1 mm wide, or a touch less, and about 6 to 10mm long, as an average size. They weren't anything special, just lengths of faded, coloured, cloth tape, not as 'neat and tidy' as today's variety, although, of course, at some time they would have been new, clean and bright.
Have a look at photos of parked WW2 aircraft, and you should find examples dangling, or blowing in the breeze, attached to pitot tube covers. Although there very possibly was, eventually, a 'standard' colour for armaments, almost certainly red, I've seen various colours and shades in colour and B&W photos, in red, yellow, orange (or faded red) and plain white - anything that would be visible easily - and on some pitot tubes, for example, some have been quite long, probably to aid removal.
Thin tissue paper, of the type used to cover some decal sheets, would be ideal for this; when painted, they'd resemble the cheap cotton material, and should 'drape' to whatever shape you desire.

 

[Crimea_River]

Great info here guys.

 

[Wurger]

Yep..

 

[Totalize]

I got the underside panel lines done and thought I would post some pics.

 

[Wurger]

Looking great.

 

[Totalize]

So,

I also worked on the bombs as well. Here are pics of the Eduard set.
The fins of the bombs are fairly thin so I used my razor saw I purchased specifically for cutting fine resin pieces off their sprues.

You can see here, I managed to cut the fin and cone off but still have the fuze left on the sprue. The fin(s) have been filed down to remove the excess flash. I didn't use a blade to cut the flash off as I was afraid I would break the fins or ring on the part. That's how fine this piece is.

 

[Totalize]

And Here they are based painted with the fuzes in place. I still have to add the rear fuzes. I painted the fins OD and the bombs themselves faded OD. I have seen a number of pictures where the fins are a darker colour than the bomb itself and wanted to replicate thiis effect. I still have to paint the fuzes silver.

View attachment 258989

 

[Wurger]

 

[Airframes]

Sounds good, although the pic in post #234 is not showing - just got an attachment number.
You'll get by with the colours you've used, but British bombs were normally painted in Dark Green (originally they were yellow!), with the tail and fin assembly often in black or dark grey, sometimes also in Dark Green.

 

[Totalize]

Thanks guys,

Terry, Here is another shot of the bombs. Hopefully this will show up.

As for the colour of the bombs, the Eduard instructions state to paint them Olive Drab. Perhaps they were thinking they were painted similar to U.S. bombs.
It's an easy fix to change the colour. When you say Dark Green do you mean the same colour as the green on the aircraft?

 

[Wayne Little]

mmmm....doin' good!

 

[Wurger]

Sounds good, although the pic in post #234 is not showing - just got an attachment number.

Terry,

If you click the number of the attachment with LMB you can watch the pic on your screen. Just the attchment was enclosed but didn't validate by clicking the DONE button of the file selector.

BTW.. with Wayne here..

 

[Airframes]

Ah, got it.
Yes, the Dark Green was similar to the camouflage colour, although perhaps just a touch darker. The contrast with the tones of the tail cone and fins shows against the Dark Green, in B&W photos, as they were, as stated, very often black or dark grey.
I rarely take much notice of colour instructions from kit manufacturers and, in this instance, Eduard must have been assuming the bombs were the same as American ordnance, where Olive Drab was a U.S. colour, not common to British production.