Hawker Typhoon IB "Nicky" 439 Squadron RCAF 1/48

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I've heard good things about those. Can you tell me where you got them an how much you ended up paying with shipping? No problem if you want to keep the cost to yourself.
 
Crimea_River said:
I've heard good things about those. Can you tell me where you got them an how much you ended up paying with shipping? No problem if you want to keep the cost to yourself.
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No Problem Andy,

I got them off Ebay from a Canadian seller in BC. Price was 8.69 and shipping was $4.00. Only place cheaper was Hobby easy but they didn't have any stock.

Dave.
 
I asked the guy if he had more sets and he said he didn't. He actually purchased this set in error as it was the wrong scale for him.
BTW I did the same and purchased a 1/32 scale clear canopy for the F4U-1 Corsair from Squadron and I have no use for it as I don't own a 1/32 Corsair and don't plan to in the near future.
 
Hi Guys,

Back with an update.

I was able to get more work done on the cockpit. Once I get the seat belts I ordered I will mount the seat to the armour plate and add the seat belts. I then plan to glue one side of the cockpit to the airframe, then add the armour plate and seats then the other side of the cockpit.











 
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Thanks Guys,

I had a hell of a time with the seat. First I fractured the seat almost in half removing it from the resin sprue.I filled it and added mr. surfacer 500 to fill the gaps. Had it looking not to bad but it was very difficult to sand the fractured area that went horizontally across the seat. Then while working with it it flew off the bench. I stood up and took a step and heard a crunching sound. I looked down and saw that the seat was crushed. So I had to do rebuild it to get it back to its original shape. Thankfully I had a few round files and used some filler and Mr. Surfacer again and got it to actually look better than when I originally had damaged it. The Seat adjustment handle was also another affair. I had to cut a piece of plastic card then sand it down to the size I wanted. On two seperate occassion while sanding and holding it in my pliers it went PING!! and flew off out of site. So I had to make another one. This is the third handle I have made for the seat.
 
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Thanks Andy,

I would like to think my skills have improved in this area but not having built a kit in a year and half Its probably more wishfull thinking.

I am not real happy with the pictures I posted. I am kind of a perfectionist in this area as I think good pictures really allow other modelers to better see the details and how things have progressed. All were taken under fluorescent lighting. I have my own dedicated hobby room which I built when I finished my basement. I put fluorsecent lighting in and the other lights I use are also fluorescent. I think it tends to wash out the colours a bit especially white where its hard to discern various details. I can't change the room lighting but I might switch to daylight incadescents for my three surrounding table lamps for picture taking. We shall see.

Thanks again for having a look and taking the time to post your comments.

Dave.
 
Or set the white balance on the camera for standard fluorescent.
Alternatively change the tubes to No.1 Daylight, which will also correct the colour balance intolerence for the naked eye, allowing yo to see paint colours etc as they actually are, rather than being affected by the green wavelength of standard fluorescent tubes.
 
I'm not claiming to have the great pictures myself but, like you Dave and if it helps, my workshop area is all fluorescent. However, I've also set up an incandescent desk lamp over my work for the extra light and take pictures with all these on. I set my camera to incandescent bulb for shots and shine the desk lamp really close to the subject, just out of view.
 
I shoot in RAW format and adjust the colours in a photo editor. The fluorescent setting doesn't make much of a difference with my camera. The number 1 day light incandescent I am thinking will be the better approach for me.
 
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