1. Trebor

    Trebor Well-Known Member

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    just need a little help. some advice and some other things

    1:72 Revell PT-109 boat (given, missing instructions, if anybody can help me out on that, it would be very greatly appreciated)

    1:350 Banner USS Arizona (given, partially done, nothing I can't fix, missing decals but nothing too major

    1:720 Testors/Italeri USS Abraham Lincoln nuclear aircraft carrier. (given, everything is in the box, decal sheet yellowed, need some advice on that, model was partially done, but nothing I can't fix)
     
  2. Njaco

    Njaco The Pop-Tart Whisperer
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    Not sure what you're asking help on Trebor. You need instructions for the PT boat? Things like that?
     
  3. Trebor

    Trebor Well-Known Member

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    yes, I'm asking for help on all 3. the Arizona isn't priority, much. but the PT-109 boat and the USS ABraham Lincoln is.
     
  4. Njaco

    Njaco The Pop-Tart Whisperer
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    I don't have much on warships but I'll go through my dad's old stuff and see what is around.
     
  5. Trebor

    Trebor Well-Known Member

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    I just need like a copy of instructions for the PT-109, and information on how to repair old decals sheets. I think I saw something like that around here but I can't find it. the decal sheet has a real yellow tint to it. and I don't think that's normal
     
  6. Matt308

    Matt308 Glock Perfection
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    Personally, I have found that decals don't yellow unless they are in an environment where somebody smokes or have been in a bright light area. What I have found with my 30yo models is that the decals become brittle and disentegrate if left in the water for too long.

    Trebor, you have some flat clear enamel or acrylic? Either use your brush or spray gun and put a thin coat of flat clear over your whole decal sheet. Cut your individual decals out. Soak them for 10-15sec max and put them on a paper towel/clean cloth for about a minute. Check it for ability to slide off the sheet. Don't manipulate the decal too much. Prep your model with a little decal solvent/set. Minimize your movement both on the sheet and on the model. Carefully blot with a clean soft cotton cloth.

    Some long thin decals may break. Don't panic. You can easily piece them back together with only a little patience.

    Here is one that I helped my son with. The decals completely disentegrated when we first started. I brushed some flat clear on them and had only a few faux pas.

    Good luck!!
     

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  7. Bucksnort101

    Bucksnort101 Well-Known Member

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    Seems to me I read that putting yellowed decals in direct sunlight for a few days turned them white again? Never tried it myself so it may pay to cut off a corner or the decal sheet and put it in the windows for a couple days and see what happens.
     
  8. Matt308

    Matt308 Glock Perfection
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    I would love to hear the results of that experiment. I can't imagine that would be fruitful. But I'm always learning.
     
  9. Trebor

    Trebor Well-Known Member

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    you mean like dullcote?
     
  10. Matt308

    Matt308 Glock Perfection
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  11. Njaco

    Njaco The Pop-Tart Whisperer
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  12. Wayne Little

    Wayne Little Well-Known Member

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    Would love a couple of bottles of Solvaset....can't get it here!:evil:
     
  13. Trebor

    Trebor Well-Known Member

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    lol I'm starting to think that leaving the decals in the sun for a couple days is a bit easier. my father and stepmother are smokers so it's possible that's why the decal sheet is yellowed
     
  14. badbear

    badbear Member

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    Hi trebor i think you can download instructions direct from revell
     
  15. Micdrow

    Micdrow “Archive”
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  16. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
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    Hi Rob,

    These yellowished decals are in a sheet aren't they.The "yellowish" effect is caused by the Time but not by smoking cigarettes,unless the decal sheet was laying on a table and smokers "cured" these.But it is a quite rare case. Yellowishing decals can be caused by the decal glue and its getting yellow.In the case you have to soak the sheet in order to unglue all decal elemnts and remove the old glue ( long bath in warm water is nice for it).Of course all decal elements have to be moved from water onto a model with a new paper sheet covered with gloss cote ( it make easier to move a decal element from it onto a model).Personally I use paper sheets that are covered with the same glue like the decals ( the kind of paper is used for postage stamps that can be glued when licked.The USMail may still using these)

    The second reason for getting decal yellowish is a poor quality of the decal cote ( both the transparent and other colours) and in the case you can cut off the yellow film as much as possible and then apply on a model ( but white colour is yellowish though ) or use Bucksnort101's sunny idea but I'm worried about colours.It seems that there isn't any good solution for that , except buying a new decal set.
     
  17. Airframes

    Airframes Benevolens Magister

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    I agree with Wurger. Most 'yellowing' is caused by age, and I've found that it virtually disappears when the decal is soaked ready for use. I keep my spare decals in a binder that has clear polythene sleeves, but hard, totally opqaque covers. I've used thirty year old decals without problems, unless they've cracked with age. Those decals on the 'Huey' I posted recently were from 1982, and the numbers and Gruppe bars on the FW190A currently showing date from 1980 !
     
  18. Trebor

    Trebor Well-Known Member

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    ok, I just ordered a replacement instruction sheet from Revell. so that's one problem solved. I doubt I"m going to find ANY Banner decals right now.

    as for the yellowish decals, I"m going to tape them up to a window in the sunlight and see what happens.

    thanks a buch for all of your advice, guys! :D
     
  19. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
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    A happy New Year Robert...:D:D:D
     
  20. Trebor

    Trebor Well-Known Member

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    you too, my friend!
     
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