Micro Sol question
- Thread starter RGaspar
- Start date
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It's a two step process but you don't have to use both. I've been using the system for years with good success.
Microset, in the blue bottle, (which is basically a dilute solution of acetic acid) is used when applying the decals but if you didn't use it there is no reason why you can't use microsol, in the red bottle, to help your decals settle and conform.
Don't apply it until the decals have dried from their initial application. If you get any wrinkling LEAVE IT ALONE!!!! Any attempt to rectify this at this stage will result in destroying the decals. They will normally settle after a few hours.
Microsol very rarely can be a bit strong for some decals. I suggest that you apply a decal that you don't need from the decal sheet to an old model or spare part and treat this with microsol to check the result before you splash it on your model! Better to ruin an unwanted experimental decal than your model.
Cheers
Steve
Microset, in the blue bottle, (which is basically a dilute solution of acetic acid) is used when applying the decals but if you didn't use it there is no reason why you can't use microsol, in the red bottle, to help your decals settle and conform.
Don't apply it until the decals have dried from their initial application. If you get any wrinkling LEAVE IT ALONE!!!! Any attempt to rectify this at this stage will result in destroying the decals. They will normally settle after a few hours.
Microsol very rarely can be a bit strong for some decals. I suggest that you apply a decal that you don't need from the decal sheet to an old model or spare part and treat this with microsol to check the result before you splash it on your model! Better to ruin an unwanted experimental decal than your model.
Cheers
Steve
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I agree with Steve. I've been using just the 'Sol' for the last 30+ years, for both applications, without problems.
- Thread starter
- #4
Ok. Sounds good to me. One more quick question what's the best way to strip the paint off for starting over? My 110 has been giving me fits with this paint job, and I'm just not happy at all 
I rushed it a little in my excitement to use my airbrush for the first time and forgot to mask off certain areas, and botched the mottling as well.
I rushed it a little in my excitement to use my airbrush for the first time and forgot to mask off certain areas, and botched the mottling as well.
mikewint
Captain
I also use just the -sol but I add a drop or two to the decal soak water, then I apply the -sol to the model with a paint brush where the decal is to be placed. Once the decal is in place and excess water drawn off I apply -sol directly to the decal, again with a paint brush, then I allow everything to dry. Again as stated DO NOT disturb the decal as the -sol is disolving the decal. If the decal is not completely flat more -sol can be applied to the dry decal
meatloaf109
1st Lieutenant
Yep!
Crimea_River
Marshal
Ok. Sounds good to me. One more quick question what's the best way to strip the paint off for starting over? My 110 has been giving me fits with this paint job, and I'm just not happy at all
Not tried it but I've heard brake fluid works really well.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Yep, and not as harsh as a blow torch! (I've already got me coat ....)
- Thread starter
- #9
Brake fluid? Every time I visit this forum I learn something new. I really appreciate all the tips you guys have been giving me the past few weeks, as I love warbirds and I hope to recreate them as decently as I can. It's always been passion since I was a kid playing janes wwII fighters and building planes. I can only get better from here!
