B-17engineer
Colonel
I'm more familiar with the 1st one......whats wrong with the Buc?
Modelling Tools and Equipment. (1 Viewer)
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hawkeye2an
Staff Sergeant
I think it has something to do with age Harrison.
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- #163
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
What's wrong with the Buc ??!!!!! I take it you haven't seen the build pics then H ?
Yep, age has a lot to do with it. Not many years ago, I could run over the hills all day long, with a 90 pound (or more) pack on my back. Now, I can't run a bath !!
Yep, age has a lot to do with it. Not many years ago, I could run over the hills all day long, with a 90 pound (or more) pack on my back. Now, I can't run a bath !!
B-17engineer
Colonel
Yeah it broke but it was fixed...? Right?
Vic Balshaw
Major General
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- #166
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Neat micrometer! If I had one of those, it would show me exactly how badly I'd made things !!!
Having seen the profile gauge in an earlier post, I've been looking all over the place for my miniature one - think the fairies have stolen it ! I needed it when I did the Beaufighter for the MTO build, and ended up using a piece of plasticine instead! Not as accurate or precise of course, but got me part way there !
Having seen the profile gauge in an earlier post, I've been looking all over the place for my miniature one - think the fairies have stolen it ! I needed it when I did the Beaufighter for the MTO build, and ended up using a piece of plasticine instead! Not as accurate or precise of course, but got me part way there !
N4521U
Colonel
On the subject of tools. I have the green putty, it drys do fast for what I am doing. I am in need of a slow drying putty I can fill with. I am doing small gap fills that are a little fussy to do. Any suggestions which putty I should find? Bill
hawkeye2an
Staff Sergeant
Try mixing your green putty with some old fashioned tube glue, about 3 parts putty to one part glue. Gives the putty a lot more working time, makes it fill better. The only down side is it needs to be sanded first with regular sandpaper, then again with some real fine like 2000 grit, otherwise it has a different look than the rest of the plastic when painted. After you use up your green stuff, just go to an auto parts store and get a HUGE tube of Bondo for the same price. You'll never need to buy putty again.
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kgambit
Tech Sergeant
I would have sworn that I had used the entire supply of Bondo on my old old rusted out so badly that snow came up thru the floor (and NO i am not kidding) 1963 Chevy Biscayne affectionately known as Chunga's Revenge. IF ever a car was destined for the scrap yard THAT was one.
hawkeye2an
Staff Sergeant
My statement applies if you use the Bondo for MODELING purposes only !!! I had an old '67 Ford van that was held together with Bondo, Duct tape and bailing wire. The engine was between the driver and the passenger. One memorable trip returning from the lake my brother kept the motor cool by pouring water over the outside of the radiator while driving.
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hawkeye2an
Staff Sergeant
Just realized your an Aussie. Do they have Bondo down under?
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- #173
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I'm sure they'll have a similar goop. Probably called Toombawoombabillabong, or something like that !
N4521U
Colonel
Yes there is the tube chip filler here, it's called Toombawoombabillabong! LOL. I do have some, but it seems to attack the plastic like a rabid dog, even worse than the green stuff.
Does anyone use the Mr Hobby putty? How is this stuff to use.
I remember a guitar maker I knew in the states used to use baking soda to fill, then super glue on this and it would harden. Ever heard of this? He would fill gouges in the cut out for pick ups, like using fiber glass resin under the barrel of a rifle for glass bedding.
Does anyone use the Mr Hobby putty? How is this stuff to use.
I remember a guitar maker I knew in the states used to use baking soda to fill, then super glue on this and it would harden. Ever heard of this? He would fill gouges in the cut out for pick ups, like using fiber glass resin under the barrel of a rifle for glass bedding.
vikingBerserker
Lieutenant General
That's pretty interesting.
- Thread starter
- #176
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
For big jobs and moulding, I use Milliput (two-part epoxy putty). I occassionally use Italeri tube putty, which is very similar to the grey stuff used on car bodies, but not as corrosive. For smaller jobs, such as fine gaps, I use my own 'porridge' mix of clear varnish and talcum powder (same as Wojtek's paint and powder, but perhaps a cleaner finish, due to lack of pigment). For an even finer version of this, instead of the enamel varnish, I use Johnsons 'Klear ('Future'), and for really tiny gaps, joints etc, it's PVA. The latter is run into the gap or whatever off the tip of a cocktail stick, and the excess wiped off immediately with a wet finger tip.
N4521U
Colonel
Lots of food for thought. Thanks for all this. Other ideas accepted! Bill
Vic Balshaw
Major General
I use the Mr Surface 500 and 1000, these are quite runny and set in about 15 minutes, both are good for layering and do set quite hard. otherwise I stick to the true and tried Tamiya filler.
N4521U
Colonel
Vic, thanks for that.
Looked up Mr Surfacer and it looks like This is what I am after. Am gonna head into Sydney this morning and pick some up from Hobbyco. Interesting to see that the 500 and 100 indicates the fineness of the grain of the compounds, 1000 being the finest.
One can always count on being directed to a solution here.
But Never Ever ask for a color picture without naming the aircraft!!!! LMAO
Looked up Mr Surfacer and it looks like This is what I am after. Am gonna head into Sydney this morning and pick some up from Hobbyco. Interesting to see that the 500 and 100 indicates the fineness of the grain of the compounds, 1000 being the finest.
One can always count on being directed to a solution here.
But Never Ever ask for a color picture without naming the aircraft!!!! LMAO
hawkeye2an
Staff Sergeant
Now DON'T get us started on stealth tools !
