Modelling Tools and Equipment.

[TimEwers]

Airframes I see you have one of those Elephant compressors Ive seen them on ebay with a airbrush for 65 bucks. How good are they? do they get the job done? and what kind of airbrushes are those that you show. 65 bucks is about what I can afford right now and if I can get a airbrush with it thats a bonus.

So I'm just wondering.

 

[Airframes]

The compressor works fine, and has not let me down yet, in over two years of using it. OK, it's working at one pressure, around 15 - 18 psi, without a regulator, but it's more than adequate for my needs, and relatively quiet.
The airbrush I use is an AB, made by a company in the UK, and is a fine-line, all-metal, adjustable, double action brush. Again, this was inexpensive, costing around £28 direct from the makers "Everything Airbrush". I have no complaints about the 'brush either, although I damaged the jet nozzle, and bought a second 'brush of the same type, and was sent, FOC, a replacement jet nozzle too!

 

[vikingBerserker]

Has anybody ever used a Pistol style Airbrush???

Grex Airbrush - Tritium.TS - Dual Action Pistol Style Airbrush, Side Gravity

If so any good???

 

[Crimea_River]

Nope. I guess it's single action by nature.

 

[B-17engineer]

Aztek A4709 all the way!

 

[Jayl]

I know it's not a big deal but we all use them, I'm talking about #11 blades. I picked up some of these new Z Series blades XACTO - X-ACTO Carving Blades | Replacement Blades | Retractable Blades and am really impressed. I was skeptical at first, how much better could a blade be. I've done a bunch of things that would have broken the tip off of my old blade and it's incredibly sharp and keeps it's edge really well. Give em a try, you won't be disappointed.

 

[mikewint]

Yup, have used Xacto for many years, well worth the extra money

 

[Jayl]

Yup, have used Xacto for many years, well worth the extra money

Same here but it's the new Z Series that I linked to that's so impressive.

 

[Rustybugs]

Great stuff guys! A question for Hawk, do you happen to have the plans you wrote up for that paint booth? Even if they were on the back of an envelope. It looks like something I can use. And easy to build.

A couple of folks have mentioned in other threads that the availability of tools and such is very limited in their area. I have mentioned Harbor Freight tools before, but for the hobbyist, they area treasure trove of stuff we need at very good prices. Here are some examples of good to have tools for not very much money and no I have no interest in the company(wish I did)

Helping hand magnifier with light and clamps 6.99

an 80 piece electric mini hand drill set 10.49, nowhere as good as a Dremel, but is easy to use in tight places. You will need a voltage converter for overseas I think.

Micro drill bits that will fit the mini drill they sell and most pin vise, size of the bits are .032 to .128, 20 piece set for 6.99

Mini drill bits 0.5 mm to 3.0 mm for 3.99

Their online catalog is pretty extensive. If anyone needs any assistance in buying anything from their catalog to be shipped over seas, please don't hesitate to to PM me. I will be more than happy to help you out.

 

[Robert Porter]

DIY VacuForm table! It works! All easily obtained parts from a hardware store!

 

[Wurger]

 

[Robert Porter]

Never thought of this but it makes great sense! DIY Airbrush cleanout pot!
DIY Airbrush Cleaning Pot | The Bearfoot Baker

 

[N4521U]

Well, on a whim I got a new tool, Tamiyas paint stirrer. Just a rod with a flat end and a spooned end.

But I found another use for the spooned end. When masking canopies with tape, and you want to press the tape into the canopy frame for cutting I found the smooth fine edge of the spoon Perfect for pressing it in there!!!!

In one of the workshops at our IPMS meetings I caved and spent some real cash, on eBay, for these tools!!!!!

Now that orange thing is "INFINI Easycutting" type A matt. Just 4-1/2" x 8-1/2". But it is Grooved from .4mm to 1.0mm across the width and 5mm down the length. Just stick your tape along a groove and you can cut "hands free" adn pick up with tweezers to apply. A bit pricey but boy is it great for cutting and masking canopies, or any other masking.

The Blue plate is about the same size, and $$. But it is tempered glass and great for cutting on, will not scratch with blades. Most GodHand stuff prices makes you shudder.

The steel silver template is a Hasegawa circle template. This together with a #11 scalpel blade and you can cut dots with great accuracy. Holes are .5mm incraments from a rediculous 1mm to 22mm.

Food for thought, and my own uses.
Bill

 

[Airframes]

Good stuff Bill.
I've just been looking at cutting templates for circles and rectangles etc, and will be ordering one type or other with my next "essential supplies" order, very soon. I've been engraving circles, such as fuel filler caps, freehand - quarter of a circle at a time, then complete the circle and engrave fully - but sometimes the surface doesn't cooperate !

 

[N4521U]

Good stuff Bill.
I've just been looking at cutting templates for circles and rectangles etc, and will be ordering one type or other with my next "essential supplies" order, very soon. I've been engraving circles, such as fuel filler caps, freehand - quarter of a circle at a time, then complete the circle and engrave fully - but sometimes the surface doesn't cooperate !

The Has templates are not cheap, but are pretty substantial in thickness. Would be difficult to bend this bugger.
The Easycutting pad is brilliant. .5 mm strips and parallel to boot. The engraved lines are about .5mm deep and no pressure needed to keep the blade in the groove. Happy days.

 

[N4521U]

Now I have a question..................
what's the best adhesive for canopies!!!!!!

 

[Wurger]

The best glue for the glass would be the one for the polystyrene that makes the joint durable. However the kind of the adhesives is usually kinda agressive and melts the plastic that can cuase getting of the white (milky) appearance of the clear parts. Also the cyanoacrylate glues may cause the white/milky deposit on the glass although the joint is really good. So the only one that can help and doesn't cause any troubles mostly is the PVA adhesive. Usually it is for wood , paper but it can be used for the plastic clear conopies too. From our, modeller's point of view, the best one is the PVA glue that gives the clear joint when hardened. As you may notice almost all of them are of the white/milky colour but being dried these should be clear. But it is better to check than unstick and clear the already stuck parts. However there are offered clear PVA glues too. Also, the joint may be of hard or soft type. I would suggest using of the PVA that gives the weld a little bit more of the "rubber" kind. Undoubtedly, the main advantage of the PVA glue is that you may easy remove the glue excess from parts with a rag or a brush soaked with warm water while the adhesive is not hardened fully. Later it may be a trouble especially if the joint is of the hard nature. The "rubbery" seam can be wiped off much easier.

 

[N4521U]

Always a wealth of information.
Thanks Wurger.

 

[fubar57]

I use these glues. The Clear Glue is really clear when dry, no need to be careful. Good for sealing small gaps as well...

​

Lots of varieties of puzzle glues out there, some stronger than others. With this one I could pick up a 1:48 Spitfire by the canopy

 

[Wurger]

Always a wealth of information.
Thanks Wurger.

My pleasure.
Also I agree with Geo. The Elmer's Washable Clear Glue is a good one and I could recommend it. And,. I have forgotten.. the PVA glues become waterproof when hardened. Therefore all work on the PVA welds should be done before their full drying.