N1K1 Shiden George 1/32

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Thanks all..!! Not much work done offlately ...work in trhe way again...first try at accentuate the panels... not quite yet..
 
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Maybe, maybe not.
...but then if you choose to go bit by bit, with the lightest driest dry brushing around from the outside edges of the shading dirt, or over it, then the darker shade will be in the rivet/line dimples, for that late way lack of cleaning time look don't worry, looking good so far :D

Mind, the only models I've ever painted physically were for W40K, Man O' War, Blood Bowl Epic games,, otherwise all my other painting for virtual/3D skins for IL-2 1946 GTA 3.
 
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I agree a bit dark. Using black on a light base to do the post shading can be dicey. I try to use a very thin mix of the same base colour with a drop of black to give a very subtle variation. In your case you have a natural metal base base but, even so, a drop of black in your thinned silver paint could have been done and, if built up gradually, could give you the look you are trying to achieve.
 
Oops, with the lighter colour, - better to take a few extra goes to do and see how its look developes to your taste.
Also if the technique works well for you, you could use it in the shading colour for the rivet line shadings perhaps.
 
Gents, after the advent of alclad, I rendered the SJ metal powder as obsolete....but now it is here to the rescue...I managed to tone down..!!
Just a humble beginning, I will have to dry brush the hinomaru red very carefully to tone tha down as well...
Learning by trial and error and the advice of you guys....!!!
 

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