Nose weights

[kgambit]

I recently found a thread on the aeroscale forums discussing various ways to apply weights to avoid having kits turn into tail sitters. Among the various suggestions (including bird shot mixed with epoxy), one of the posters suggested using weights that are available for the Pinewood Derby (formerly Soapbox derby) cars.

So if you are looking for various weighting options here's a site to check out:

Pinewood Derby - Speed Supplies

The one product that REALLY caught my eye was the TUNGSTEN PUTTY! Tungsten is 1.7 times heavier than lead. This putty can be molded as needed and is non-toxic.

Thought this was kind of cool and thought I would pass it on.

 

[Airframes]

Nice one Dwight! I only have a vague idea of what this 'Pinewood Derby' thing is, but the tungsten putty certainly looks useful. A bit expensive though, at around £3 per ounce, plus shipping, to the UK. I don't think there's a similar thing in the UK, but I'll check it out - could be useful for those hard to fill areas, such as the nose of a B25 !

 

[brandle]

I use plumbers putty 1kg for £2-£3, good thing about this is its reasonable weighty.

 

[Airframes]

That's a good idea! I normally use plasticine with strips of roofing lead, or air gun pellets or 'shot' fishing weights, but there are times when more weight per avilable square centimetre is required!

 

[brandle]

I would recommend give it a go Airframes, its just heavy blue tak, I find it easy to shape and force into those hard little corners.as its quite sticky at first if I ever need just a tad more weight I wrap it round a few pebbles from the drive.

 

[dirkpitt289]

I use plumbers putty too. Well as it turns out with my Me 262 I didn't use enough. What I like about it is how you can really stuff an empty cavity with the stuff like brandle stated.

 

[Capt. Vick]

This brings back memories of my one year in cub scouts. I won the whole pine wood derby with a car that was SO OBVIOUSLY not made by a kid my age! My Dad kind of took it upon himself to make it and boy it looked the part! I still have it and the trophy 30+ years on...

 

[brandle]

oops sorry Dirk,what I meant to say is I usually stuff and compact it in the two part halves before I glue them.

 

[Wayne Little]

That's interesting Dirk, Thanks!

 

[Night Fighter Nut]

For weight in the nose I use fishing weights. The kind that looks like little lead balls that crimp or clamp onto your fishing line. I also seal them in using JB weld appoxy. I used this for the Black Widow I built along with glueing penny coins inside the fuselage just infront of where the rear wheels are. It seems to have been enough weight to keep my Widow planted on all wheels.

 

[A4K]

Great ideas guys!

I'm a solderer, so form lead solder (60/40 Pb/Sn) into weights of the desired shape and size in my free time. Terry's right though in that it's too light sometimes, especially in cramped spaces.

 

[vikingBerserker]

Dang, never thoguht about the lead solder, nice!

 

[T Bolt]

This is a different one: The 1/8" thick lead plates that are used under bridge bearings on top of the concrete pier. I come across then quite often in bridge demolition at work. They can be cut to size easily with a sheet metal shears and I glue them in with epoxy or silicone caulk. The price is right and one plate is enough for 30 tail sitters or more.

 

[Airframes]

Right, I've got the PE4, the det cord and igntiors. Now, where's the nearest bridge.........

 

[T Bolt]

 

[A4K]

Right, I've got the PE4, the det cord and igntiors. Now, where's the nearest bridge.........

Nice idea T-bolt!

 

[Night Fighter Nut]

Great ideas guys!

I'm a solderer, so form lead solder (60/40 Pb/Sn) into weights of the desired shape and size in my free time. Terry's right though in that it's too light sometimes, especially in cramped spaces.

Perhaps because it's only 60% lead instead of 100% lead. However, you could pour the liquid solder over small lead weights to fill in the gaps between them. Then you lead to tin ratio would be better.

 

[A4K]

...Interesting idea, but too hot for the plastic 60/40 only starts to melt at 183 deg. C !

If a 100% lead solder exists (be no good for the electronics industry!), it would have a lower melting point, but still much easier bunging lead shot or fishing weights in with superglue I reckon!

 

[B-17engineer]

Nice one Dwight! I only have a vague idea of what this 'Pinewood Derby' thing is, but the tungsten putty certainly looks useful. A bit expensive though, at around £3 per ounce, plus shipping, to the UK. I don't think there's a similar thing in the UK, but I'll check it out - could be useful for those hard to fill areas, such as the nose of a B25 !

For Cub Scouts.....hahah I remember building the cars.....uhh but that was 5 years ago....

 

[Airframes]

Thanks Harrison.
I agree Evan. Why b*gger about with complex solutions, when good old lead shot, air-gun pellets, chunks of lead roofing flashing, or any other form of soft lead, can be pressed into' Plasticine' and stuffed into place, without glue. It won't fall out, rattle around, or deform the plastic, and is cheaper than any other method, especially 'custom' weights specifically made for the job - lazy man's, non-creative expensive solution!!