putty?

[kgambit]

That's exactly the reason I don't use this method, and haven't commented on it before. Nail polish remover is designed to soften and remove the nail polish, which, generally, is a varnish, often of a cellulose base, by dissolving it. This means that plastics will also dissolve, or at least deform, if the polish remover is dense enough on a relatively small and concentrated area (such as a joint line) or left long enough.
It is probable that in most cases, on thicker plastic around, say, a fuselage joint, and where the material is removed very soon after application, that damage will not occur. But, if left just a little longer, some deformation and or loss of moulded detail should be expected.
I've actually used nail polish remover to make 'liquid plastic', for casting a small part, but only once, as the control over the process is minimal!

Usually when I use the nail polish remover, I get the putty cleaned off asap and then wipe off any excess polish remover so I've never seen the plastic deformation. this latest case, the nail polish remover didn't attack the plastic at all - just the glue weld. But I'll definitely be careful with it in the future. Thanks for the info Terry.

 

[Crimea_River]

Good info guys - thanks for pointing out the limitations.

I use Proweld liquid glue on my seams and have not noticed any deterioration of the bond. The disclaimer on the site I posted does caution agains the use of full strength acetone as it wll soften the plastic. Cutex is supposedly diluted a bit so the claim is it won't affect styrene or resin.

Always a good idea to try this on some scraps before potentially sacrificing the fruits of your labours.

 

[Heinz]

So far I haven encounted any problems with nail polish remover for cleaning up putty. I use it sparingly though and keep the putty minimal on the model so it doesnt need a lot to clean it off.

 

[looney]

Could it be the difference is remover with/without aceton? That's the word on other sites at least?

 

[Sweb]

Old thread. I don't use putty because as much as I try that stuff, without a lot of masking to keep it controlled, it's messy. Even with all the prep to control it I've had instances where it didn't take and fell out creating small voids. I'm thinking I trapped air beneath the putty and sanded through to leave a spot along the joint unfilled.

Now I used heated and stretched plastic sprue in varying thicknesses appropriately sized to the gap I'm trying to fill. I place a length of it in the joint and then wick liquid plastic cement across it with a fine tip paint brush. A couple passes with the glue softens the sprue and material beneath enough to come back in with the rounded end of the brush and gently press the sprue into the joint. This method truly welds the joint. Because this "filler" material is the same plastic as the model sanding it later produces an even result with no low areas that can occur when sanding the softer putty material. I use this same method for filling everything that needs filling including using thin plastic sheet in places when appropriate. It produces a result that does not need priming.

 

[dresden_barber]

Awesome! This is exactly the sort of technique I was hoping for; have to fill a wing root gap on a 1/72 P-40B.

 

[dresden_barber]

I wonder if the same thing happens with joins made using 'plastic welders' like Tenax? (Reply to kgambit's warning)

 

[marcus4hire]

Awesome link on the no sand putty technique.

Would have come in handy LAST NIGHT when I was sanding all the rivets and panel lines off of the wing/fuselage joint on my Tamiya Mustang!!

Don't worry, I only have another 8 hour or so of finish sanding and rescribing panels and rivets. Oh, well. At least I know for next time!

As for nail polish remover dissolving glue. I have heard that it is considered a tool for removing excess glue and I use it as such. However, I have had varying degrees of success with it. Seems it doesn't work as good the longer the glue has cured (24 hours plus). Prior to that glue will rub right off. After that it makes the glue 'brittle' (for lack of a better word) and it can be scraped off in microscopic little flakes.

 

[Zaggy]

Its been mentioned before, but its hard to go past Squadron Green Putty - it contains just a little solvent in it, so like Solvent-Cement, it actually softens and welds itself to the plastic - something Tamilya White and Grey dont seem to do. Or if you're looking to form large expanses of putty (like those guys who just have to do a Fw 190D-9 w/ Ta 152, by making the new tail shape out of sheet styrene and putty), use Milliput two part!

Dan

 

[Trebor]

the thing about those tubes is that you can't attach anything to it to lessen the putty usage. as in using tips made for cake icing tubes

 

[Airframes]

Rob, if you're using putty from a tube, squeeze out a small amount on to a sheet of paper, and apply it with a spatula or similar small tool. I use an old fruit paring knife, the type with a 'bent' tip, as that's what I have to hand. Small probes and spatulas, similar to those used by dentists, are available from model shops.

 

[Trebor]

yeah, but I'd have to work quickly, cos the putty dries too quickly

 

[Airframes]

Do it in small stages - it's easier in the long run. Using the technique described allows more control, the putty can be pressed into the required area, you don't end up using way too much putty and, more importantly, it's more accurate and much easier to smooth off and sand etc.

 

[Trebor]

I don't have those tools, atm. but I can pick 'em up at my local hobbystore, today.

 

[fubar57]

You can run masking tape on either side of the seem to stop too much putty getting on the model. Remove the tape before it dries.

Geo