1. Trebor

    Trebor Well-Known Member

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    hey, y'all. I'm starting to think about using putty. I gotta know what's the best putty out there, and how do I use it? what are the steps to filling in gaps? lately, I've been using my modeling glue, it partially does the job, but I wanna start using putty.
     
  2. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
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    Hi Rob,

    Nice to read you here again.How is life there?

    Concerning a putty, as you know for very small gaps I suggest using cyanoacrylate glue known as Superglue.But you should remember that it is very difficult to remove its overflow if you don't have the kind glue remover called DEBONDER.Sanding then is neded. Recently I have added Mr.Hobby Dissolved Putty to my equipment.It is an excellent putty that can be applied with a brush.It sticks to a surface very good and can be sanded without causing major damages to the surface.Because it is of the acrylic sort it can be remove with the Wamod remover and other removers for acrylic paints.

    Another kind of a putty is Tamiya White Putty.It is perfect for filling small and bigger gaps, repairing holes, or creating surface texture. It can be dissolved with separately available Tamiya Lacquer Thinner for even more varieties of application. White color means it is a better base for lighter paint colors. 32g of putty comes in aluminum tube.

    The next one is an epoxy putty I suggest the Gunze Mr. Putty Strong and Mr. Lightweight Epoxy Putty.Both putties are great for filling of bigger gaps, correction of shapes, making small and bigger details and etc...Thse are offered as a two-part putty.You have to cut off the same amount of both parts and mix them in your fingers ( initially it is like the modeline).Then it can be applied and shaped with a metal blade for instance.It stick to a surface itself but I suggest to clean up (wash to remove fat or dirt ) the surface before applying.When hardened it can be sanding with sandpaper or files and polishing in the same way like other plastic surfaces.

    If you can't afford these you can always use the mixture of a paint and a talc powder.
     
  3. Mr. Ed

    Mr. Ed Member

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    Here's an idea for smaller cracks - liquid correction fluid. You know, "whiteout". You've got to sand it lightly, though.
     
  4. B-17engineer

    B-17engineer Active Member

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    Squadron putty...
     
  5. piet

    piet Member

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    Hi,
    two-part putty i use miliput,tube putty from squadron green putty:), Dries in 30 minutes, sands easily i think its the best it does not shrink... unlike tamiya putty:(
    piet.
     
  6. Crimea_River

    Crimea_River Well-Known Member

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  7. vikingBerserker

    vikingBerserker Well-Known Member

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    Ok, I'm intrigued about this method.
     
  8. B-17engineer

    B-17engineer Active Member

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    That's genius.......

    Well now comes the hard part. Explaining to someone in Shop Rite why I need nail polish remover...... :lol:
     
  9. stona

    stona Well-Known Member

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    Just brazen it out. There are many goodies from files and brushes to tweezers and sanding sticks to be found in the "ladies section". I am no stranger to this exotic habitat.
    Just don't look like you are lurking with some nefarious purpose!!!!
    Steve
     
  10. Crimea_River

    Crimea_River Well-Known Member

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    Works great and is very clean. Best part is that you don't lose the fine details on the surfaces.
     
  11. kgambit

    kgambit Active Member

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    Or have your mom buy you some. :lol:

    I've tried that approach with Squadron white putty using either Isopropyl alchohol or Nail polish remover and it's works exactly as advertised. With the Isopropyl alchohol you need to clean the excess off immediately, whereas with the Nail polish remover you have a little more wiggle room on timing. :)
     
  12. Airframes

    Airframes Benevolens Magister

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    Wiggle room? Never heard that before, but love that expression!!!
     
  13. Crimea_River

    Crimea_River Well-Known Member

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    ....stole my wife's. She doesn't like the smell anyway.
     
  14. Vic Balshaw

    Vic Balshaw Well-Known Member

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    Gave it a try today and it's great, worked like a dream. Didn't go for the Cutex though, cost a fortune. Used a cheaper brand "Black and Gold" which looks like cheery lemonade, so watch the kids.

    Just be bold my boy, wear a bit of nail polish, wiggle your finger, they'll understand.

    Ahhh the small, almost as good as a felt tip pen……..
    :hotsun: :hotsun:
     
  15. N4521U

    N4521U Well-Known Member

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    Just coming up to this part of my build. I like it! Cheers, Bull
     
  16. BikerBabe

    BikerBabe Active Member

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    If you guys are so worried about getting caught in the make-up department, why not check out what you need online, and then send the missus off to do the shopping with a list, when you're bribing her with the new perfume or lipstick she wants so badly anyway? ;)
     
  17. Crimea_River

    Crimea_River Well-Known Member

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    Doesn't bother me, Biker. My wife uses my tools and I use her girl stuff and scrapbooking pens. A true symbiotic relationship.

    I like your sig by the way.
     
  18. kgambit

    kgambit Active Member

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    #18 kgambit, Nov 23, 2009
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2009
    Update:

    Use this method with EXTREME caution. Nail Polish remover will, in some cases, attack the glue and SOFTEN the glue joints. I haven't had this problem before, but I just recently encountered this issue. The putty was standard Squadron white putty, the kit was Revell and the glue was Model Masters liquid cement. When I applied the putty and then used a cotton swab soaked in the nail polish remover to swab away the excess, I found that the joint (the vertical tail planes attached to the rear horizontal tail plane on the AR 240) softened up almost immediately and the joint had been dry for at least 24 hours. Fortunately there was no serious damage and everything worked out in the end but it sure threw me for a loop for a moment.

    I don't know if you will have this problem with other styrene glues or not. I know that PVA and CA joints have been immune to this problem (at least in my experience so far.)
     
  19. vikingBerserker

    vikingBerserker Well-Known Member

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    This is good info to know, thanks fro the headsup.
     
  20. Airframes

    Airframes Benevolens Magister

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    That's exactly the reason I don't use this method, and haven't commented on it before. Nail polish remover is designed to soften and remove the nail polish, which, generally, is a varnish, often of a cellulose base, by dissolving it. This means that plastics will also dissolve, or at least deform, if the polish remover is dense enough on a relatively small and concentrated area (such as a joint line) or left long enough.
    It is probable that in most cases, on thicker plastic around, say, a fuselage joint, and where the material is removed very soon after application, that damage will not occur. But, if left just a little longer, some deformation and or loss of moulded detail should be expected.
    I've actually used nail polish remover to make 'liquid plastic', for casting a small part, but only once, as the control over the process is minimal!
     
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